Gabrielle Chanel. In fashion again “ Chic of monastic maidens “?“ When you are dressed by Shakherezada, it is not difficult to draw to itself general attention, but all this empty gloss, - much more chic in a small black dress. Extravagance kills identity “ - the great milliner proclaimed at the beginning of the 20th century mademoiselle Koko.
Who is she was such? Dressing elite of that time - women who wanted to wear hair short and trouser men`s suits now. Cecil Billton writes in the memoirs book “ The Self-portrait with friends “ that for it it appeared impossible to solve it. Here he quite discourteously speaks about her biliousness, lack of generosity and loyalty. “ And nevertheless, - Billton writes, - within fifty years Chanel proved that her taste - is faultless “.
Chanel`s character easily is explained by conditions of her life in the childhood and youth. In the years preceding World War I, Gabrielle endured all humiliations and restrictions of a female share of this time. The daughter of the dealer in medicines and very poor woman, she was born in one of Semur`s shelters on August 20, 1883. She was 12 years old when her mother died. The father left it together with sisters in a shelter for orphans, and since then nothing was heard about it. Being forced to wear many years a uniform, she dreamed to dress all women in own way. But the form, so it not darling, gave to the world those white collars - stoyechka and severity of breed.
Having left a shelter, young Gabrielle decided to try in a musical field. Untalented, but very attractive canary of cabaret often executed a song “ Soso “ then got the nickname of Koko fixed for the rest of life. She did not achieve special progress in musical career, but got close friendship with several wealthy men. Chanel`s
was familiar with such celebrities as Toulouse Lautrec, Renoir, Picasso, Dyagilev, Stravinsky. In the same place, in “ La Rotond “ Gabrielle never knowing fatherly caress got acquainted with the rich businessman Etienne Balzan and lodged with him in the aristocratic suburb of Paris - Vichy. She wanted to differ in clothes from the rich courtesans who were also living in this area and preferred strict suits which supplemented small elegant hats.
Then Balzan buys by it shop where Gabrielle creates the real fashion house. A suit, the coquettish hat closing a floor - persons, a high heel - an image elegant, sure and the sexual lady without age. Were not enough only the last, almost inaudible, but necessary accent - drops of perfume which would emphasize this image. Then Chanel created the perfume which became to the most known in the world and recognized by descendants a work of art. Koko called the spirits “ " Chanel No. 5; All life she considered the five the happy number which is permanently bringing it good luck.
Many looked for communication with known modelyershy just out of curiosity, however with surprise found Koko the fairly clever, witty, originally conceiving woman. Picasso called it “ with the most judicious woman on light of men attracted in her not only appearance, but also extraordinary personal qualities, strong character, unpredictable behavior. Koko was is irresistibly coquettish, is extremely sharp, straightforward, is even cynical. It seemed to people around the itself purposeful, self-assured, happy with and the progress.
And suddenly at the end of 30 - x years, being at glory top, in the prime of life and creative energy, Chanel unexpectedly closed the boutiques and left to Switzerland, the Reasons of this unexpected act were called equal: and disappointment in the craft, and the wearisome ten years` competition to another known modelyershy, Elza Chiaparelli, and of course the approaching World War II. Anyway, the next several years of a voluntary imprisonment became the most sad chapter of life great to the couturier. Already difficult situation was extremely complicated by intimacy of Koko with the high-ranking German officer Walter Schellenberg, the assistant to the commander “ CC “ Heinrich Himmler.
In post-war years Koko had a dangerous competitor - Christian Dior who made women similar to flowers, having dressed them in a crinoline, having tightened it a waist and having filled with numerous folds on hips. Chanel laughed at this “ hyper feminity “: “ The Man who had no woman for all the life seeks to dress them as if itself was a woman “.
Mademoiselle Koko in general was jealous and hard-fisted. It always carried the scissors attached on a tape on a neck. There was a case when Chanel, having seen a suit from Givenchy on one of the models, approached and instantly ripped up it, having told that now the suit looks better.
In 1954 at the age of 70 years it with triumph returned to the world of fashion. “ I could not see any more that such designers as Dior or Balmen " made with Parisian couture; - so she explained the return.
Gabrielle Chanel died silent death on January 10, 1971 at the age of 88 years in nomers - luxury of " hotel; Ritz “ in Paris, through the road from Chanel`s House magnificently trimmed, known for the whole world. The income of its empire made 160 million dollars a year, and only three dresses, but " were found in its clothes; very stylish " dress; as the Queen Strogosti would tell.
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