What to look in Brest at? Notes of the honest vacationer from Bialowieza Forest ofthe Symbol of Brest and the Brest region, as well as Belarus, Bialowieza Forest is, of course. Where we did not fail to glance.
About Bialowieza Forest, a brand not only the Brest region, but also vseya Belarus, I heard much, but never there was. Therefore to visit Brest and not to visit the Dense forest, the relic wood and rare bisons would be inexcusable levity.
Having reconnoitered a little in advance that - how much, on bus station we bought tickets for a share taxi to Kamenyuk, villages where the Dense forest originated. Having hardly beaten off the local carriers suggesting us with comfort to bring quickly to Kamenyuk for only 350 thousand ($23) and 30 minutes, we were loaded into the minibus crowded with people, smells, curtains and in an hour were on the place.
Standing at two cash desks advertizing pleasures it seems “Foot walk“, “Walk by bicycle“, “Walk by bus“, “A trip to the lake“, “Open-air cages with animals“, etc. we, as well as most of other visitors who arrived to this natural monument could not decide that we want: foot or bicycle walk, open-air cages or a trip to the lake. To understand on the place, without preliminary judgment and weighing, it was difficult. Cashiers in the windows heated on the sun with badly hidden irritation repeated to silly visitors, one after another that they actually want.
While we, standing right in the sun in a confused queue and slowly melting, all weighed pros and cons, I distinctly understood that I want most of all: I want to devour and be filled up where - nibud in a shadow, in bushes and that zhu - zhu - neither Dense forests, nor bisons, nobody.
Having bought tickets to open-air cages and in the historian - the ethnographic museum, we entered on the territory of Bialowieza Forest … to be met by the barrel of a machine gun aimed at us and a squint of ruthless eyes. A monument “Here in 41 - m died three defenders“ - a military subject everywhere in Belarus, and even on an entrance to Bialowieza Forest.
On the right “Pines“, small cafe where we also directed the got a bit tired legs. Inside, in a heat and a fumes, Babel: all little tables are engaged, there`s not an inch of room, and one at all the waiter who is torn to parts, and remains to that that it is lovely to snap.
In the menu was Russian cabbage soup, a holodnik, potatoes from pork chop and so forth (probably, the menu to all Belarus is formed somewhere in Minsk, and then it is dispatched on cafes and restorashka). We tried to take the first, but the missing cook - the razdatchitsa at an empty counter told us that at first it is necessary to make the order at the waiter. We tried to make the order at the crazy waiter, but that angrily ordered to wait to us when he is released.
I decided not to wait for the first and, choking with a heat, the pungent smells and opposite sounds made by unruly children who even during such heat managed at the same time something to chew and to drive with cosmic speed on the crowded cafe, almost ran out from this den of the Belarusian public catering.
Having approached the place of distribution of a shish kebab, I to the never-ending pleasure found out that there is few turn, and, having ordered 200 grams of the pork warmed in a microwave, two pancakes and tea on herbs, bystrekhonko went to a free little table in the fresh air.
Having chosen the place is closer to the wood and far away from people, I without waiting for a female half with Russian cabbage soup or a holodnik as knew what put this slow, hard - to beat out from the angry waiter a plate public catering shchets, began to chew angrily a shish kebab, gradually relaxing from a twitter of birds, a needles smell, without regretting for the lump sum for six small pieces of hardly warm meat rowing nearby to couple and which undertook goodness knows where from to a torn cat, annoyingly and impudently demanding from me the portion of my shish kebab nearly at all.
When on a plate there were two pieces, my female half, however, empty-handed in the doorway appeared. As it became clear when the crazy waiter stopped serving others, also Russian cabbage soup with a holodnik, and a half of other dishes in the menu reached a limit. Usual service on - Belarusian, however.
Open-air cages animals
Having finished a shish kebab and having a little had a rest in a shadow of high pines, exhausted and begun already was to think, but whether not to jerk back, in hotel - well it, this I Will let, che I did not see there? - I, at last, collected the strength and crept out on filled in 35 - the-degree sun asphalt which conducted to “Open-air cages with animals“ - inhabitants of the Belovezhsky wood.
First open-air cages terribly reminded me usual cages that in our zoo: in first “open-air cage“ a raccoon dog, having put out a pink uvula, annoyingly and infinitely, to flicker before eyes, measured eight short steps one way, eight in another while another lay in a corner, most likely, on - philosophically understanding all futility of circulations of the fellow tribeswoman; in the second the beauty - the lynx lay, having turned a bottom to gapers, in every possible way ignoring them.
Further, however, open-air cages became similar to open-air cages: space of meters hundred on hundred, from penka of the cut pines, but without “nobody“. Further we managed to get acquainted with the African ostrich who, unlike raccoon dogs and a lynx, on the contrary, paid us such close African attention that it became feel ill at ease. However, what relation the African ostrich had to Bialowieza Forest, I did not know, but the show was curious: the ostrich extended a neck, looked fool in the face, opened wide a beak, hissed, closed one eye as if he winked “As to you ostriches, inhabitants of the Belovezhsky pampas, and?“, took a step there, here, again extended, looked, opened wide etc.
B other open-air cage we saw red deer who adjoined to wolves, horses, fallow deer and, at last, the main inhabitant Belovezhi - a bison. The family of bisons consisted of a bull, three females and one tender telyat. Manual as domestic cows, they obediently took apples from hands of gapers, peacefully mowed with a damp black eye towards the next apple, and I understood what wild is in these wild bulls of the European plains exactly as much how many in me on holiday when I get drunk and I will low that - to ityit from height of a window of the fifth floor.
Further we got acquainted with one more inhabitant of the belovezhsky woods - a brown bear who unscrupulously guzzled bananas, stood on hinder legs and turned a little attention to all those who crowded at its cage. The explanatory inscription, however, said that “The brown bear is not found in Europe, except for zoos long ago“ - but what difference? If it is possible for the African ostrich in Bialowieza Forest why it is impossible for a brown bear?
Honestly, I felt sorry for both a lynx, and bears, and even bisons who obediently took apples from hands. In - the first, all of them sat in cages - were deprived of the most important that is in a wild animal - freedoms, will of the manumission. In - the second, they resembled the plush animals tamed and cultivated more. Though, maybe, it also is better to be the castrated fat cat and to eat a cat`s forage from banks, than to ransack hungry on the cold wood, endangering itself?
On the way back we glanced in the historian - the ethnographic museum. It is necessary to tell that expositions were interesting and well-groomed - it was visible, as funds are allocated, and the attention is paid. However, all without uniform inscription - it seems, guess what piece of history is represented there. We had no guide, and ourselves had to solve who that here the station inspector with a two-headed eagle on a beaver cap - Nicholas II or just went by. Later I noticed a badge with earphones and a check on each place: probably, to visitors with the informative purpose earphones had to be given. However not only we wandered without earphones, but also all others, wrinkling a forehead and trying to guess “hu from hu“ and why it there.
As the curtain fell, on a pylyuka and the heated asphalt we reeled up on thirty-five-degree zharishche kilometers ten. For fatigue at us legs gave away, at me morden cruelly burned, prompting to me that I remind red-skinned now - the rozhy Indian. Having felt hungry, to drink and be extended in all growth where - nibud on a sofa under gradually the chirring conditioner and with the misted small bottle of ice beer in the grown weak hand.
that evening we returned to hotel in the tenth hour. My half wanted a water-melon, and we on badly bent legs, dirty and tired, at first found shop with water-melons and only then, loaded as the camels who passed the Sahara reached to the house.
The water-melon was eaten directly from the blunt knife occupied neighbors, sitting on a floor, greedy swallowing sweet, reviver from what it seemed that not everything is so bad and the body not so aches for fatigue.
Slept like the dead unless sometimes rising on them to set from themselves free the pining water-melon.
Came back easier, than went there. It is possible because went not by night train any more - to the West, on the East, and in a thin minibus and all the time in one set direction. Came back in a hurry, having missed to understand how it is a pity that everything already ended.