Make-up history. How the faces of the beauty of the Ancient East, Greece and Rome decorated? First was consideredthat to the ordinary Greek woman - mother and the keeper of a home - to make up the face did not stick. Only professional mistresses - heteras were able to afford it. However after Alexander of Macedon`s campaigns on the East the relation to cosmetics changed.
I finished last article about make-up history with the quote of the archeologist Leonard Kotrell who put “modern“ beauty of Nefertiti in peak to “cold“ marble beauty of antiquity. The archeologist, probably, forgot or did not know that initially antique statues were not white and “cold“ at all. Usually sculptors brightly painted them. Here only paint over the years of an oblezl, as generated the myth about “a noble whiteness“.
On one of legends to be painted even the goddess of love Aphrodite did not avoid. After she won in first “beauty contest“ and won from Paris a prize - apple with an inscription of “Finely“, Afina and Hera lifted big scandal. They declared that Aphrodite used cosmetics - i.e., in their opinion, swindled.
By the way, first was considered that to the ordinary Greek woman - mother and the keeper of a home - to make up the face did not stick. Only professional mistresses - heteras were able to afford it. However after Alexander of Macedon`s campaigns on the East the relation to cosmetics changed. Women of China and India which were turned by the persons into the real cloths made strong impression on Greeks.
For example, hot Indian beauties densely blackened already dark eyebrows and eyes. The contour of eyes was done as much as possible extended, and corners tinted red paint. Applied with red paint on a forehead and well-known “bind“ (droplet) which was at the same time both ornament, and a sacred sign. Symbolical values at “binda“ weight: rising sun, full moon, “the third eye“, sixth chakra...
Also at Indians was considered attractive to blacken teeth and to gild lips. All this “glamour“ was completed by abundance of gold jewelry - from a traditional earring in a nose to heavy ear rings in an ear (not without reason large lobes were considered as one of advantages of the Indian beauty).
As for Japanese and Chinese women, the cosmetics layer on their faces was such that they reminded the stiffened passionless masks (to bare teeth even at laughter was considered vulgar therefore they were covered with a hand). Ears and a mouth had to be tiny, and here the person - as is possible, it is more and okrugly. Trying to achieve “lunolikost“, women strongly bleached skin rice starch, shaved off forehead hair, doing it is higher, and emphasized with ink this border.
Own eyebrows of the Chinese woman ruthlessly pulled out, and on their place drew new - in the form of a high arch (this “surprised“ bend of eyebrows will become fashionable in 1930 again - e years). Japanese preferred to draw eyebrows hyphens - short and put by a corner.
And here Greek women and Romans the eyebrows tried to connect in one “monoeyebrow“ (was considered that so the woman looks not only it is more beautiful, but also it is cleverer).
It is known that Greeks always had no objection “to believe algebra harmony“ therefore they calculated proportions of an ideal face. In their opinion, the beautiful face has to be divided into three equal parts: from the upper edge of a forehead to eyebrows, from a top of eyebrows to a nose tip, and from more true border of a lip until the end of a chin.
The forehead has to be low, a mouth - small, a nose - to straight lines with a high nose bridge (such noses still call “Greek“). Eyes were appreciated large, slightly convex and widely placed - with the arc-shaped centuries and a wide intercentury section. Not without reason an epithet “ox-eyed“ (languishing eyes as at a cow) was at Greeks an obvious compliment (so, for example, called Hera - Zeus`s wife).
There was in Greece also a new specialty - “kosmeta“. So called girls who put your appearance in order (“order“ - actually, and Greek “kosmet“ from where nearby to the term “cosmetics“ is translated).
In aspiration to become more beautiful antique women used all make-shifts and literally did not spare health. Then extremely dangerous whitewash made on the basis of chalk and lead becomes fashionable (them will use up to the 19th century). Cost white lead much therefore women powdered the face with bean or wheat flour more poorly. The queen Cleopatra did not even disdain to add the crushed crocodile dung to whitewash.
The soot which is usually mixed with an egg yolk, wax or light pitch became a basis for ink for a long time. From such ink of an eyelash stuck together and seemed to a thick and is thicker. Also antimony - powder from the pounded black stone had great popularity. Not without reason bible Iov, convicting the daughter of abuse of cosmetics, called it “a vessel with antimony“. And the Roman satirists joked that they from abundance of paint of the face of women of fashion can break up to parts.
And here the Roman comedy dramatist Plavt, on the contrary, insisted that “the woman without paint as food without salt“.
Akhill Taty, “Levkippa and Klitofont“, the 2nd century AD:
“And gloss of peacock feathers, did not seem to me, could be compared to the sparkling beauty of Levkippy. Her face was colors of narcissuses, roses blossomed on its cheeks, in the violaceous color her eyes flickered, and curls curled more magnificently, than an ivy. All flowers blossomed on her face meadow“.
. Pliny wrote: “According to the most conservative estimates, India, China and the countries of Arabian Peninsula annually extort hundred million sestertion from our empire. Here in what luxury goods and a female manage!“
Krom decorative, in Rome begins to be used actively and hygienic cosmetics. Huge popularity is gained by baths where skin was humoured various grindings and ointments (the ointment from Egypt giving to skin a golden shade was especially appreciated). Asinine milk which some women of fashion washed to 70 times a day becomes favourite ingredient in care of skin. Notable patricians during travel even drove with themselves the whole herds of she-asses in which milk bathed.