How to travel around Europe on the sailing yacht?Short story as I traveled around the Mediterranean Sea, overtaking the sailing yacht from Italy to Turkey.
Initial task: it is necessary to overtake the yacht from a point And in B.`s
point the Purpose: to combine business with pleasure - a yacht stage with travel across Europe.
The entering data: Sailing Beneteau First 44 yacht. 7, 2006. Start on June 20 in the city of Genoa (Italy), the finish approximately in 2 weeks in Marmaris (Turkey). In team, except me, three persons: Nikolay is the former champion of sailing of the USSR and young couple Andrey and Marina, and the girl absolutely without experience of circulation on the yacht.
Our yacht - the winner of many international regattas. It is specially equipped for races - the carbonic mast and the geek, kevlar sails and total absence of conveniences to comfortable stay on the yacht is established.
Went!!! As I was forced to discover Schengen through the Czech Republic, departed to Genoa through Prague. In that case that decided not just to fly, and to stop in Prague at least for the night. Time appeared a little - was enough only for survey of a village about the airport where I also stopped for spending the night in small rural hotel Penzion V Ma? tali for 25 euros. It was interesting to come to be among local population, to have supper in a local cafe. The huge dish with meat, vegetables plus beer cost only 8 euros!
The next morning flight through Paris to Genoa. The airport Charles de Gaulle in Paris is something. The huge mechanism filled with planes, cars and people. Moving from one terminal to another took 40 minutes (including by bus).
In Genoa landed on the boat, the benefit the airport absolutely nearby in time and forward.
But here I was waited by small disappointment, in previous day during races, on the yacht the toilet broke, and there was also a problem with transmission - forward transfer joined every other time. I was unable to repair transmission (the come mechanic declared that it is necessary to lift the boat from water and to be engaged in diagnostics of a box on the land), and here without toilet in the sea, understand, in any way. Therefore it was necessary to remove hotel and to wait for two days when the toilet is repaired. Two days because in Italy on Saturday and Sunday nobody works: the shops selling spare parts, service which can replace these spare parts!!! Anybody … Nevertheless, on Monday the toilet was repaired, and we left in hope that transmission nevertheless will not break finally, in the direction of the first point of a stop - the city of Gayeta. Transition of 300 nm.
And at once we are hit a two-meter wave in the left board at wind in a muzzle about 10 knots. We go on the motor, strong lateral rolling. By the night the wave amplified to 4 meters. All crew rocked to sleep, but we do not give up and with firmness we struggle with seasickness. For me the best way - 100 gr. whisky or rum, someone takes a pill or eats apples.
I paint watches for three for three hours as then shift on time on each watch turns out, and the fatigue is shown much less. The main sense of watch, especially is at night to conduct continuous supervision over a surrounding situation. The Mediterranean Sea - not the ocean, here the movement of vessels constant is also risk to create danger of collision. The truth with it we are helped also by the electronic devices tracing surrounding vessels.
What we eat? It is clear, that at strong rolling, it is impossible to cook full-fledged food. Therefore from hot - tea or coffee. And the mug is poured half, otherwise all contents will appear on a floor or it is even worse on someone. Who loves instant soups or sublimated products - eat them. I usually for breakfast eat sandwich and yogurt. For lunch having a snack from sandwiches and vegetables, and for dinner I try to prepare something hot nevertheless. At least to warm haricot or to fry eggs. Plus vegetables salad, and also fruit. As a rule, such menu suits all crew members.
In a day, wind amplifies to 20 knots in a muzzle, the wave does not abate. Having been tired of rolling, I make the decision to stop for spending the night on a small island of Giglio. As well as it was written to sailing directions, 5 - the stars anchor parking sheltered us till the morning.
However, at statement on an anchor, one more complexity came to light: on this yacht there is no anchor winch brashpilya. There is only an anchor with two meters of a chain and the attached rope about 20 meters. Increased it two more mooring and rose at a depth of 10 meters. It seems we stand. Established watch as at the expense of the stretching rope, the radius of our turn made about 50 meters. Hardly - hardly dispersed from the next yachts. Very much iSailor applet with an anchor alarm was useful.
Early in the morning moved further, the benefit wind and a wave calmed down. By next morning arrived to the Italian town of Gayeta. Going along the coast, especially at night, it is necessary to be especially attentive. Nevertheless, night watches are brightened up by the star sky and the Internet onboard. The sim card bought in Genoa from 5 GB for 20 euros as a result was used only half.
Gayeta was very lovely town with almost total absence of tourists! The marine is rather convenient, the truth the price in a night in 75 euros afflicted a little. Children went to excursion, and I went to the friend who, just, stood here on the yacht. He told about excellent local restaurant and about shop where it is possible to be bought by alcohol cheap. By the way, the bottle of whisky which cost in dut - fr of Sheremety 18 euros in this shop cost 12 euros. Excellent economy?
Next day, having filled up stocks of provisions and water, we left farther. Transition to the city of Tropea, 200 nm. It is few wave, a fair wind of 20 knots. We go under staksely 7 knots. Always so! The crew is engaged with watches, studying of subtleties of circulation at the yacht and a relax under the sun.
Unexpectedly we notice fountains meters in 100. WHALES! I do not know from where in Sredizemke whales, but I saw them own eyes. As always :(
But that it was not boring for us did not manage to photograph, the toilet pomp case breaks in the evening!!! Whether at repair in Genoa drew bolts of fastening of a cover, whether just an old age. But the toilet cannot use! It was necessary to show an ingenuity: someone used a bucket, and I directly in the sea.
To evening of the next day we safely arrived to Tropeyu. Very modern marine, very obliging personnel (that is not really characteristic of Italy). The cost of the parking is 50 euros. In a toilet of a marine there were bidets! It is the first marine from where I was which has them. Usually the toilet in a marine is a toilet bowl, a wash basin and a shower. The truth in a marine of Genoa (not where there was our boat on start) faces an entrance to a toilet free ldo - the generator. Too pleasant exception. And still in some (I do not remember already where) there was an automatic machine pouring free of charge beer!!!
Near a marine the tremendous snow-white beach! Since morning, of course, to bathe! After a breakfast, it was succeeded to find a toilet pomp assembled and the master who successfully replaced it. Of course, I could make it also, but as the boat others - that to be engaged in repair in the hands of desire was not …
So, the toilet is once again repaired, products and fuel at us in full prosperity. We move forward towards Greece through the Strait of Messina where we are waited by two mythical monsters - Stsilla and Haribda. In old times they heated everything the ships passing by. The crew is a little excited?
At 18 o`clock local time approach to the passage (width of the passage of 3 km) it was timed by me correctly (thanks to the sailing directions and the table of currents received in a marine of Tropei) and we, having added to the speed of 4 knots of a passing current, we fly by the passage with a speed of 10 knots! We go along the continent and we notice the first whirlpool. It is the real funnel going down. We pass it in 10 meters. With our speed, it did not influence us, but the ancient ships precisely experienced difficulties if they got to it. This is Stsilla. The second monster about coast of Sicily - we it did not notice.
Safely passed the passage and we head in a marine of the city of Kalamat. It is one of the few Greek marines having muring for mooring. Generally all Greek parking of a muringama are not equipped and it is necessary to use instead of them an anchor (whom at us few).
Decided to be engaged in fishing. By the boat there are no tackles, but I bought in Gayeta a scaffold and a kalmarchik with a wobbler. On a wobbler pecks nothing, and on a kalmarchik it was succeeded to catch a tuna on 7 kg. Pleasantly?
Transition of Tropea - Kalamata 360 miles passed for 2 with small days. At 8 in the morning arrived to Kalamatu. Workers of a marine helped with mooring, gave an adapter for water and a package of documents for registration of the parking. Cost - 44 euros a day. To sleep!!!
Kalamata - very Greek town, with the long embankment and a huge number of cafe and restaurants on it. During the day the city almost empty, but in the evening all embankment and restaurants are filled with the having a rest people. And local it is not less there, than tourists!!! The party boils till the morning, further all calm down till next evening.
From entertainments in Kalamat especially there is nothing, even diving. Bus excursions to the next sights or rest on the beach are offered. For loving an extreme - there is an opportunity to jump on a paraplane from the mountain with a landing on the beach. But it not for me.
The weather forecast on the closest two days does not please - wind to 35 - 40 knots therefore we make the decision that it is better to stand well, than to be thrashed in the sea. We stand two days which were enough completely to bypass the town and vicinities, and also to sunbathe and be bought.
But the sea calls further, the forecast promises no more than 20 knots, and we leave. Transition of 320 miles to Simie. It is a pity to pass by a set of passing Greek islands - Santorini, Astipaley, but it is necessary to observe the schedule. The forecast almost came true, however, wind caught up to 35 knots that gave the chance to come off in management of a sail and in an otrulivaniye of waves. A wave to 3 meters. We go with a speed of 7 - 8 knots under one staksely. The grotto did not put as it has some problems in a likpaza on a mast and would be problematic it to lower.
Two nights flew by quickly, and since morning we come into Simie through the northern passage between Simie and the neighboring island. Here it is necessary to issue an exit from Schengen. All procedure takes about 30 minutes, taking into account that for closing Greek transit - ravines, it is necessary to go 15 minutes to the port building which is from police on other end of the gulf.
Simie very tourist place, here ferries with tourists and other vessels constantly come. The place on the embankment is not enough for all also each meter of the embankment worth its weight in gold. We got up a board (anchors few and forward transfer joins less frequently) therefore we are constantly banished from place to place. After the third time to me bothers to be engaged in trick with mooring with risk to damage the and the next yachts, and we make the decision to go to Marmaris.
We overcome only forty miles in 5 hours and we get up on the customs mooring of Marmaris. Procedure of customs registration in Turkey differs from other countries as the local agent who does all customs registration is necessary. Without it in any way. As we arrived already at 18 o`clock, it was necessary to pay the agent a double rate - 70 euros, and he was all the same dissatisfied that it had to work after 17 hours.
Nevertheless, all procedures are observed, and at 19 o`clock we are moored in a finish point - Yachts to Marina Marmarisa.
HURRAH! Transition to 1250 miles is complete successfully in 14 days. The boat is delivered in a house marine and will prepare for the next regattas. Next day masters came from Yanmar - service and in 8 hours repaired transmission without boat raising from water. Why it could not be made in Italy, it is not clear to me.
We have a rest two days and we fly home. It should be noted what Marin`s Yachts provides for rest all conditions - the beach, the pool of 20 meters, a pool, restaurant and library. Each hour buses go to Marmaris.
Two days of a relax at the pool past quickly, and we fly to Russia. The taxi to the airport Dalaman costs 60 euros (to go about 1. 5 hours). The Turkish airlines proved to be only from the best party, the level of service is comparable with the Thai or Qatar airlines.
Huge gratitude to my crew: To Nikolay, Andrey and Marina! They, despite all problems with the boat and weather intrigues, showed endurance and firmness, helping to conduct the yacht to the destination. Children, without you I would not cope!!!