Rus Articles Journal

Travel to Abkhazia - edge of the sunk ships, orange lemons and freaky drivers. Part 3

the Beginning
Money promptly comes to an end in

therefore so far decided to refrain from trips so far and to have a rest near the house.

01. 06 - 05. 07

Several times we changed beaches, and once Dima swam with a mask to the flooded ship (and them a set here), and caught rapan. Prepared them with onions and gravy - left very tasty, but children are did not become.

Another time Timofey very much asked with Dima. I worried, as if was not wounded, nevertheless a rust, but then we decided to put on an inflatable vest on Timokh and to put him astride a circle - so it had to remain on water all the time.

They with Dima long were absent, and then came with a sack of mussels. From them Dima cooked very tasty soup (to taste - fish soup), even children ate with pleasure. But, it is necessary to tell, washed - I scrubbed away them before cooking more than an hour!

A of Ilyushk thought up such game at the sea: he looks for in advance smooth fragments of glass (which I very much love), comes into water, puts a piece of glass on the inflatable spiderman and sends me to the coast with exclamation: “Mothers, you letter!“

In general, children who were afraid to plunge into water until recently grew bolder now - dive and somersault in every way. Timokh already not bad floats like a dog, and Ilyukh, looking at him, already, happened, overestimated the forces, and few times nearly drowned (once Dima pulled out, the second time I jumped from a pier, but it already removed itself). Gave it dressing down - and now far does not swim away (and we try to put on a vest).

Earlier we went to the beach the same road where often there go cars, and then reconnoitered a way through stadium - there is desert and is quiet.


By the way, invariable tradition - on the way at the sea to gather blackberry. It very much is pleasant to children! But berries for the present only - only began to ripen, and sometimes it is necessary to get into prickly thickets so far that does not do without scratches. Mean prickles stick into skin and come off a bush.

Once again went on the beach to a beacon. Since morning there is not enough to people here, there are also even absolutely deserted sites of the coast. It was succeeded to sunbathe a little without bathing suit. There is no awful wish to come back home with a white bottom. Dima climbed on an eucalyptus (I at the same time was not present, and I do not represent how he made it - eucalyptuses huge!) it was scratched, but dug branches so we will make leaves in the winter for small kashlyun now.

In day we have usually about two walks: in the morning and in the evening, yet there is no strong heat. In the afternoon we try suit “quiet time“, but not always leaves. Usually under windows somebody goes (from the village still there arrived Vakhtang`s son, the boy of years of ten, and to him friends come), on the second floor children, too from Moscow live. And still the rooster shouts, the dog barks...

Children if to them allow not to sleep, rush on the yard and play. Entertain a cat, splash each other.

By the way, a kitty - the hunter I do not cease to be surprised! The other day she caught a lizard again and long played with it, and another time dragged from where - that a big bug - as it with him rushed - somersaulted as she threw up!

Once we decided to walk in the evening to find twilight. At first rose by Bagrat`s mountain (generally it has two tops, but we had enough one). Above the remains of a fortification on which it is possible to go remained - it is quite wide. And from above the view of the coast opens.

On the way back to us the hazel grove got to

, and we gathered a package of dairy nuts - they very much were to the taste to children.

Before twilight still remained a lot of time, and we decided to go down to the sea in the unfamiliar place. It was the beach near military sanatorium. And the first that to us was evident - the ship flooded near the coast. Huge, multi-colored, well remained (not to compare at all to those rusty remains which we saw many times along the coast - only boards yes of a mast).

From his nose in water boys jumped, and we hurried to find that place from which it is possible to get upward. Above it appeared very interestingly: different transitions with a handrail, some hatches, cables. Dima with children escaped forward, and I hardly kept up with them. On a main deck all got on an astonishment easily, and I had to puff a bit: the ship is inclined sideways, and left that it is necessary to climb on a steep ladder!

the Steering wheel and a compass from the captain`s bridge, certainly, already broke off

. But the viewing tower where Dima with Timohui, without thinking twice, got remained. Ilyukh it was with might and main torn to them too, but it would be too.

On the way back I got down the last and decided to use a cunning Timokhiny way: to go down on a steep short flight of stairs on the contrary: as a last resort to jump off face forward. But besides a photobag I had also a support behind the back, and it played a dirty trick with me - got stuck across, having hooked for hand-rail. By some miracle I managed to unscrew a hand to be released. And all this with an inclination forward - long I so would not hang!

the Coast was rich with treasures here! To be exact, here tens of gladenky multi-colored fragments of glass with which we with children filled the pocket whole a backpack continually rolled. And when went to bathe, I tried not to look under legs - they should be selected!

Having supported

with sausage rolls, we went to the embankment. Already darkened, lamps were lit, and everything looked absolutely differently, than in the afternoon. Vanity disappeared, people slowly walked under the palm trees lit with orange light or sat on shops under the blossoming oleanders.

the Fountain which, was the purpose of our walk really turned out

fantastic: in the center of composition - lions with jewels with teeth, and under them tiers are located the underwater lamps changing color - and all this sparkles in water streams. I spread out a support, shot, and here children began to yawn... We went to the next stop, and in the beginning unsuccessfully stopped the car (a minibus after nine in the evening - it is unreal), but then we were picked up by the man on “Gazelle“ and took almost to the house, even without having taken from us money.


It is interesting what will be tomorrow?

6. 07

At an entrance to Sukhumi the route crosses the river to Gumist. In this place the most beautiful bridge (very tall, on graceful arch support) built still by captured Germans is located. Along the river the rocks overgrown with the wood extend; we planned to take a walk here long ago. Vakhtang took us to the bridge, and we went to investigation along the river. The footpath brought us on the low hill: there the UAZ stopped; near it two workers settled down on a grass and drank coffee from small porcelain cups. Around the car we noticed a set of striped is red - the white sticks thrust to the earth, and the Carefully, Mines! badge Children explained to us that though since the Georgian - the Abkhazian war there passed enough time, and they everything that is possible, here already cleared of mines, nevertheless, from time to time carry out inspections. Though Dima assumed that thus young people just decided to take to themselves the good place for picnic.

in process of our advance along the river of the rock rose closer and closer to water, and it became impossible to go to any moment further.

Should tell

what to the opposite coast in some places was no distance, and pine Liski looked very invitingly there. We were confused still that the river looks small and quiet (not as the raging rivers in Prielbrusye which constantly move stones), and we decided to try to ford it and to transfer on ourselves children. We with Dima came into water on two times in different places - and unsuccessfully. Having already shipped legs knee-deep, you feel what force the stream has; and when water reaches a groin - that it is almost impossible to keep standing - though for an additional support we used a stick. And when you look at the water flows which are carrying away afar, this show in combination with a rumble just hypnotizes. It seems what tightens you and carries away (Castaneda was remembered at once). By the way, Dima came into water on a belt - and says that it was impossible to lean on a stick - the current did not allow to concern it a bottom. There would be a river deep - here it was possible to bathe at least (floated on a current - and turned to the coast), but when water on a belt, it is impossible to row with legs - only pootbivat them about stones.

We returned to the bridge. Bathed - popleskatsya where small, and again rose upward, to roadside cafe. There drank tea with cakes, and the man working here told an interesting thing. That allegedly across the river there is a mountain lake, and still the fortress remains under the name “Lock of Feudal Lords“, and there is even a cave. We, of course, “lit up“, and immediately went towards to adventures.

At first send

the very tall bridge and from above admired the river which spread to the horizon (by the way, Gumist`s river is considered the purest river in the world), then curtailed on a mountain footpath. The most wonderful that having appeared in a shadow of trees (and mountains are densely covered here by different vegetation), you do not feel a heat any more. And if at a bright sun the twilight reigns here, then in the late afternoon promptly darkens.

the Path jumped up, down; became absolutely narrow and passed on an edge of steep. Sometimes from - under legs stones took off, and it was heard as they long - long slide on the mountain, entraining also others.

descent - and here we already below Began

, we make the way through prehistoric thickets of a fern height about human growth. And left to the treasured pines seen from the opposite coast. Judging by purity of the place, people are here seldom (as I already spoke - do not like to clean up here). Have a little a rest and returned on a track which dived into the wood again.

What here fantastic trees! All clumsy - overwound or fat, as if baobabs. Or so densely moss-grown as if in an underwater kingdom - also it seems that not a moss it at all, and fluffy seaweed. During our summer trips I saw a set of different prickly plants, but this time especially was surprised to unprecedented hitherto. It can be described how a thick stalk of a rose which lasts on many meters: it hangs down from trees, creeps under legs and so that it is necessary to get confused in it. Frankly speaking, it seemed to me earlier that such pieces happen only in adventure movies (though then it was thought also of a crown of thorns).

Rising uphill, we for want of habit very much were tired. Besides round of obstacles like dirt or a perelezaniye through stones began to enrage already. Sometimes mushrooms - mokhovichka came across to us, and it entertained us, but anyway, decided to bring together them on the way back and marked these places with sticks, putting them across a path.

At some moment the footpath branched, and we chose that that conducted down. And left to the lake. Or rather, in the beginning we did not understand that this lake - painfully a little reminded a pond more likely. On a berezhka someone built a table and benches - probably, here often happen. But when we decided urinate legs a little, were enraptured: water was ice! Means, really from a bottom keys beat, and it appeared the most real mountain lake!

cannot Be long in such water: if you come slowly - legs begin to grow dumb. Therefore it is necessary to dive fast entirely - and to leave right there. Dima and I iskupnutsya, children pomochit legs, and we started to hurry further.

Returned on a fork, and this time walked on the top footpath. In the beginning, thanks to bathing, went easily, and then forces again somewhere left. We had even more often a rest on pebbles and drank water. Ilyushka heroically kept mum and went with Dima by a hand, and here we with Timohui already began to grumble.

When the path ran out on a glade, we were surrounded by ancient trees with the thick twirled roots, clumsy branches, and huge hollows in trunks. In one such hollow children went in together and all could not play enough in any way. Nearby the rock acted as layers over an abyss. In general it is surprising that such layers are from far away very similar to steps or in general to man-made construction.

Still small rise - and we on the top of the mountain. On a clearing in which center the monument in memory is established to the dead in the war (all we will not get used in any way that “war“ is almost always mentioned in a context “the Georgian here - Abkhazian“). Still found a set of birch mushrooms and mokhovichok - such miracle!

Dima escaped on investigation and, having returned, called us because he found something interesting. The footpath led us in other party. Rocky ledges looked as the remains of the destroyed wall here and reminded an ancient labyrinth. And here on an eminence it seemed that white and high! Wall remains! We bypassed this miracle around: really really fortress remains? Then why near break? Already then someone told that this was not the fortress, but a tower, a fort - a post because in days of old who only did not attack Abkhazians...

Having wandered on the wood, we have a little a rest, and tireless Dima escaped again, and returned already with the burning eyes - it found an entrance to a cave! We went down on shaky stones and came to be at the high arch: from within blew as cold, and at us under legs water streams murmured. We glanced inside, but even after eyes got used to darkness, practically nothing could be distinguished, and we were distressed about the lamp which is not taken with themselves. I “got high“ few times flash, the look captured big space, but in pictures, certainly, everything left flat; and where conducted the course - we did not learn (and the course has to be, as draft of air strong).

We admired

rocks and have a little a rest. And came back with a mass of impressions. Mushrooms safely waited for us (and in the evening at us the most tasty mushroom soup was ready), and still it was much easier to go down, of course. But, nevertheless, approaching a fork, we felt that all got wet - and again curtailed to mountain an ozerka. This time in ice water all bathed: children even repeatedly dived with the head.

Reached by

the bridge without adventures. At first unsuccessfully tried to catch the car, but then that man from cafe (who was Vakhtang`s neighbor) asked the acquaintance to take us to the center. On the way we observed oncoming traffic of a military column (a set of armored troop-carriers, and also KamAZ and UAZ “medical medical unit“). However, the driver told that this commonplace: a shift change of the Russian military unit with abkhazsko - the Georgian border.

Us was taken to the familiar street, and by fantastically cheap trolleybus (journey 3 rubles) we reached practically to the house.

7. 07

When in day of our arrival we rushed by bus on the coast, I paid attention to some especially beautiful park and a white colonnade against the sea. It turned out that it is Gagra, and we included this city in the list of the plans.

slightly more than two hours Reached by

by bus. Arrived to the heat, and at once felt that very much were tired. The city is divided into old and new part. We began walk with new Gagra, having gone, respectively, to old.

is Sent in the praised Continent supermarket, but I will not tell that it was some special. Just there are a lot of departments of a different orientation, all on slightly - slightly: both rolls, and bedroom-slippers, and teapots. But here the Sukhumi lemonade in glass bottles did not appear, but Pepsi - as much as necessary. Khachapuris were limited. Then long went along the road by numerous sanatoria, then decided to curtail, at last, to the sea.

I never saw

of Such huge number of souvenir shops yet! And having glanced on the beach, we just were horrified - how many here was to the people! Noise - din, aunts with pies - fish, inflatable hills, boats - parachutes etc. Children asked to bathe, but we hurried to be on the lam from this place.

returned on the road Again and long enough walked. At last, overtook some nice square and curtailed under a shadow of trees. Having looked out on the beach, found out that here to the people already not so it is a lot of, it is also quite possible to bathe. Ran in turn not to throw a thing. It is necessary to tell that I saw such transparent water only on advertizing pictures. On many meters in water pebbles and small fishes are visible. And still we found on the beach unknown “pereodevatelny“ cabins - even with souls!

At the exit from the square was seen how the dog walks puppies from the secluded place. Tolstenky kolobochka amicably sniffed at a bush, and only one caught mother and began to suck a milk.

we all - reached a colonnade though it was necessary to go long enough. It is one of sights of the city where people come to be photographed. Here too photographers offer the services: it is possible to be photographed with a peacock, with a signature stamp, with a parrot, and even... with a young lion! I never saw that someone was photographed with animals, but the whole crowd of children squated around a young lion - and everyone ironed him. The young lion rode on a grass and went bananas. The truth I did not allow to suit the children. Just in case.

we Continued by

walk on the palm avenue and marveled to what in these parts bathes so to few people that on fingers can be counted. Really crowds of vacationers seen earlier is the integral sign of sanatoria?

We chose by

a place under a shadow of a tree ashore and again took a break “for bathing“. Children with huge pleasure froliced in transparent water, and Dima swam with a mask. I was cooled too, and with pleasure posobirat local pebbles - they really some special and very bright.

All of us for this day very much were tired (walks on a heat awfully exhaust), but it was impossible to leave, without having looked at a city symbol - the building of Gagripsh restaurant with huge hours and a long ladder. It turned out that we already almost came. Shot the building, considered the car of an idle kanatka... Also found out that that park seen by me from the bus begins with this place. How we could pass by?

We wandered on paths, saw ancient gushing sculptures (one of them - the Sagittarius - even worked). Came into cafe with the tables painted under chessboards. It became clear that there is also chess. Placed figures, long played with Timosha, sipping lemonade, but, namuchivshis, finished in a draw - scale very much confuses: it is unusual to play on such big space.

I in completion of our wonderful walk we found a huge complex of mosaic constructions (and they first of all are associated with the South!) . Cheerful multi-colored labirintik, hills, round windows with ornaments - we long here walked and were photographed.

Full of impressions, we got out to the road and stopped a minibus to Sukhumi. Children right there fell asleep at us on a lap and ourselves “were almost “sleepy“. Once again were surprised to manners of local drivers to abnormally disperse and go round the going ahead transport on an oncoming lane. Already at an entrance to Sukhumi saw the turned truck on the road. I hope, all are living.


As two weeks quickly flew! I will not tell that we had a rest much, but also it would not be desirable to remain “on longer“ too. We seldom are late where - nibud more than two weeks and never we come to the same place twice. But anyway, we are glad that visited Abkhazia and now we have of it own idea.

children were already torn by

On the eve of departure home, and Dima told that he will miss very much a cat and a dog. And the cat brought us under a door a farewell gift - two legs of a locust: big, green, with zazubrinka.

When we left, there was an intolerable heat, and there was a wish to have somewhat quicker in cool Moscow before - to be cooled and be refreshed... So we departed from Sochi where there were 30 degrees, to Moscow in which there were 32 again...