Rus Articles Journal

Travel to Abkhazia - edge of the sunk ships, orange lemons and freaky drivers. Part 2

the Beginning
days off Came to an end in

, and we hurried on survey of interesnost.

since the earliest morning in the room it becomes stuffy, besides the rooster - so already shouts and it is not slept.

28. 06

We have breakfast and first of all went to the government house. If there is an opportunity to admire the city from above - that a sin it not to use. Frankly speaking, it was a little frightening that somebody will notice us, and troubles will begin, but everything managed. Ladders were open, special blockages were not observed. But everything was filled up with garbage, pieces of plaster, steps were stratified. Looking on floors, we observed the same picture: the naked peeled walls, empty window openings which are filled up with garbage corridors. Having reached a roof, we fairly were tired (there passed about 12 floors), but now to us the wonderful townscape from height of bird`s flight opened: lodges, palm trees, sea... At the expense of high boards the roof is quite safe - so we saw enough much and took a picture. And having gone down, with feeling of the fulfilled duty went to an apery.

the Nursery is located

on a height therefore having passed an entrance, at first it is necessary to rise long uphill. In general, such impression that you get to some fantastic jungle: circle of a palm tree, liana; the infinite stone ladder leaves up (just as in an animated cartoon about the Shelter - faugh a panda - unless we did not drag with ourselves the cart). In process of rise stone benches, same ancient, as well as steps - pricked and grown with a moss come across.

we curtailed

According to indexes on a path and left to the small area with cash desk and souvenirs.


It is interesting that allow to feed monkeys here and even sell to visitors of sterns (we managed to notice among other chunks of cucumbers, carrots and even greens). But began to buy nothing as providently bought bananas in shop.

Should tell

that nursery very well-groomed: here constantly a great number of grandmothers clean the territory (we for the first time saw the brooms made of a prickly bush!) and also employees regularly wash street open-air cages where monkeys contain. In nursery of their two look: macaques Rhesus factor and baboons of a gomodrila. It would seem what there to look, practically nothing, but the family lives in each open-air cage, and all have manners, the characters. Macaques were pleasant to us more. They are very similar to little men, especially kids - glazastenky, with a surprising mimicry. Absolutely small cling to mothers; those that is more senior - tuzit each other or beg on an equal basis with adults, will hardly catch sight of visitors. Monkeys stretch pads between rods and wait for something tasty. Once observed how the deprived samochka began to beat the breast - a pier, and me?

bypassed the territory So far, observed different types. In one open-air cage of the monkey endlessly fought and wildly shouted, in another very sadly howled chorus, in the third - grabbed bags of the stood gaping visitors. Someone`s child was incidentally bitten by the monkey hurrying to eat an entertainment.

Baboons on character absolutely others. Males are often aggressive. One of them, for example, demanded a gift, spitefully shaking a lattice. Another, once I brought closer a lens to the open-air cage, with shout of indignation snatched on a protection - so I already did not risk any more. Eventually, we found rather peace family, and I managed to shoot quietly. However, the male unostentatiously yawned, showing the sharp canines. Females played with a cub and sometimes squabbled among themselves. By the way, cubs of baboons externally exactly - in - exactly imps: the muzzles extended with rylets unless is not present rozhek.

again we were convinced by

I once again that it is good to visit similar places a bit earlier: when we went to an exit, towards the crowd already went.

Literally two steps away from an apery the botanical garden is. And of course, we decided to visit there, having killed two hares at once!

Children already rather were tired, but even their aping and a shouting could not spoil to us impression. A botanical garden in Sukhumi small, but very well-groomed. From the central entrance the “chess“ path which is laid out by a white and red tile deep into conducts, and along it various palm trees and other southern trees grow. Further in different directions footpaths run up, and, traveling around this labyrinth, try to lose sight of nothing. Perhaps, the biggest impression on us was made by bamboo thickets - none of us saw it “alive“ yet.

were Still remembered by

: a huge linden of some special grade, absolutely immense (I even took it for a small baobab), a very tall sequoia, ridiculous flat cactuses, and also a set of the blossoming bushes and trees which names I, alas, do not know. At the pond which grew with white, yellow and pink lotuses we sat down to observe tadpoles. Then loud croaking was distributed, and on a floating leaf the big frog jumped out. She publishes such shrill “singing“, inflating big white sacks of a muzzle on each side. And in completion of my photographic happiness Dima showed me a floating turtle: the truth, long it did not begin to pose and dived deep into.

Home we already trudged without hind legs, but, nevertheless, passing by the mooring, could not but admire types. On the coast there are a lot of old picturesque houses here, and in a frame of palm trees they look excellently. Via the bridge we passed to the cafe building standing on water and shot also the streets over waves and costing on the other hand on the mooring the ships.

the End of our morning adventures was noted (in this cafe) by huge and very tasty pizza accompanied by cold Pepsi in glass glasses.

in the Evening again.

Under such circumstances rubber rings are already necessary to nobody to

, and everyone asks a mask. Dima hooked to Timosha a crab, fish - a needle and three crayfish - hermits - about piers there is a lot of any living creatures. Interestingly, as Ilyukh grew bolder now, and everywhere walks in the inflatable vest (floats) behind the others. To lap at the coast near mother is not that any more.

in the Sukhumi bay, directly at the coast, in some places the sunk ships come across to

(the truth, absolutely small). On one of such ships Dima with Timosha swam today. Timofey was so impressed that painted the whole picture on this subject in the evening.

A our semi-Siamese kitty rushed all evening with with own hand caught (and already tailless) a lizard... What it is bright!

29. 06

Yesterday we so were tired that we decided not to plan anything global today.

at Night and in the morning the rain went; then it stopped, but the sky remained is tightened by clouds. It is surprising that even without the sun there was a heat and closeness.

We planned to visit the Sukhumi museum of local lore, but it was closed on repair. Took a walk in the downtown. In total - the center strikingly differs from other areas - here all such well-groomed and pure: the squares which are laid out by a tile, beds, palm trees, the blossoming oleanders and magnolias. On the sculptural compositions devoted to the died soldiers in of 93 - 94 laid flowers. At intersections - brand new electronic traffic lights with time countdown, and still here on an astonishment there are a lot of accurate wastebaskets.

Within several days we paid attention to one species of palm trees with small fruits. Today found out that it is dates - tried fallen. They were sweet, but very much small.

When reached the sea, glanced in the two-storeyed wooden cafe on the embankment recommended by Vakhtang. Mudflows above, on a verandah also enjoyed a look. Tasted local cheese pies and with egg. Dough at them reminds an unleavened wheat cake, and core as in cake is open, and all this is filled with butter - very nourishing piece. Still tasted half-smoked pork - but it was zhirnovaty. The most interesting in any kitchen are seasonings. We ordered two sauces on test: tomato with grasses and sauce with a walnut - both were very tasty. And everything is good, but I wanted also salatik, and I chose some unfamiliar - from cabbage with a walnut. When tried, eyes on a forehead got - it turned out such peppered! And that the annoying - too very tasty. After that flavoring feelings became dull, and still burned to itself the sky. Now understood that it is necessary to be interested in degree of sharpness of dishes always in advance.

On the coast we did a long way: bathed in several places. At first found the stone ruins standing in water (it turned out that it is remains of the destroyed fortress), between which children liked to lap and dive. In other place saw the bungee over water attached to some metal design. For children it was heavy, and here Dima drove.

in the evening we reached

A on a minibus to beer factory, were again treated with local lemonade and went to the sea to look for a beacon which by hearsay has to be here. The beacon was not found, but found a set of charming rusty ships ashore. The beaches which here are not improved, but it and is good - to the people very little. Along the sea trees grow, there are someone`s lodges further. But the most interesting - the ship standing on the mooring and some boxes on piles - are behind a barbed wire with the plate “Pass is not present“. It is good that at least did not forbid to remove.


to me very much liked the coast. Of course, here it rather littered, but the sea throws out a lot of fin on stones! And among heavy sticks and bryovnyshka absolutely wonderful, polished with waves, fancy koreshochka and accurate sticks which are so pleasant for considering and twisting in hands come across. Remarkable material for hand-made articles - another time I will gather a sack.

Having reached a barbed wire, we asked a question how now to leave to the road - not to come back! Houses cost a fence to a fence. But some dear grandmother collecting on the bank of a bryovnyshka for winter stocks with pleasure spent us through the site. We passed through the settlement “Beacon“ to the road (and really saw in the distance the top of a beacon), and sat down on a minibus almost to the house.

I all - we do not cease to rejoice to the Abkhazian inscriptions! Read on a minibus the plate with the destination - “Maiak“. At once remembered Blame - Down and a pot with an inscription ““Miot“.

fresh cucumbers in the menu were duplicated by

A as “hemp“! Here I think now, there can be cucumbers is a password?

30. 06

Even before travel to Abkhazia we planned to ourselves obligatory visit of New Athos, and here, at last, were going to carry out it.

On the eve of a trip all night long, we went to the station to get on a bus.

I Will make by

lyrical digression, and I will tell once again about the Abkhazian drivers. Frankly speaking, earlier I considered that is more impudent than the Moscow motorists just does not happen. But, probably, was mistaken. Here a problem that crosswalks (except for the center) just do not happen. And if you cross the road, and the car in the distance seemed - that it is necessary to hurry that did not crush (and nobody even looks at children). To brake is here, most likely, a bad form. The one and only time the driver gave us a sign that gives way, but this exception (at him children sat in the car).

To New Athos Road goes along the sea and which - where winds on the serpentine (actually, on it we already went to Sukhumi from Adler). I do not know, can do it already age, but once our bus accelerated, to me it became terrible. I already paid attention that drivers reduce speed only before a post of GAI, and then disperse again. Hills - not hills, the serpentine - not the serpentine... And Ilyusha told that mother the little coward...

So far we went, the rain which then passed into terrible heavy rain began (as write in fairy tales - “in buckets“). We urgently put on windbreakers and raincoats and jumped out at the necessary stop already equipped (the main thing, I managed to roll up a photobag in cellophane). Having stood a little under a canopy, we decided not to wait any more and went to the New Athos cave, having asked the road locals. It was difficult to go: it was necessary to rise uphill, constantly jumping over the raging streams. And eventually the way to us was barred by such heavy water flow that Dima decided to be undressed and transferred all of us in turn at itself on a back (long ago the forgotten feelings - very much it was pleasant to me).

the Entrance to a cave is in the big beautiful two-storeyed building, seated on perimeter by beds and palm trees (I even the first time saw how bananas grow), with an open verandah and cafe. We reached doors wet through. In a lobby changed clothes on a small bench, having warmed by sweaters and hats, bought tickets for the next excursion and rose by the second floor - to drink tea with baklava. From a balcony the wonderful view of the New Athos monastery opens - we wanted to visit him too, but considering our adventures, we decided to reduce the program.

Excursion began with the fact that we were invited to get

on the tiny train (speak, it was made by the special order), and as in the subway, we were taken to station - dimly lit, but decorated with stained-glass windows. The strict aunty is a guide in advance warned that excursion long, and asked not to lag behind.

after that we entered the first hall of a cave. The sizes of spaces really impressed, but avaricious lighting which besides was switched off after passing by group of certain sites very much was not pleasant.

We were divided by

. Dima moved by hands of children, and I spread out a support and ran, looked for successful foreshortenings.

Halls differ in

from each other: somewhere it is just same emptiness and underground lakes (which, by the way, from - for darkness nobody saw), but the route is constructed so that “interesnost“ appeared on accruing. We observed both clusters of stalactites, and separate stalagmites, and the stalagmata similar whether on multilayered cream - ice cream, whether on the Babel tower. Distance passed decent. That nobody got lost, paths for visitors are specially fenced. In the last hall we observed magnificent huge sinter educations and even small falls.

It is bad that from - for weak illumination often had to put endurance not on 3 - 4 seconds (as, let us assume, in Kungur), and on 15, and even 20 seconds. Therefore I sometimes was late, and then caught up with group run. The aunty is a guide at once took a dislike to me, having declared that generally it is impossible to remove from a support (and how then there in general it is possible to remove something if you pay for photographing?!), and constantly pulled me: “The girl with a tripod! We have first of all an excursion!“ Though to me this excursion if it is honest... I, for example, keep mum concerning hobby of cave guides to find in a shadow of stone ledges of an outline of animals and then from time to time to show them to visitors, swinging a laser pointer. Though if the person has an imagination, he will find tens of other, not less interesting outlines. So though it was beautiful and fascinating, but nevertheless spoiled to me nerves. Back we were brought by the same train.

the rain already ended with

By this moment, and the sun with might and main shone. Without knowing in what to dress children (t-shirts were wet), we left them in one panties, and continued our walk.

Minutes in twenty walking from a cave very beautiful places begin

: Psyrtskh`s river which is buried in verdure over which rocks hang. Along other coast there passes the railroad, and we observed that its site where rails leave one tunnel and disappear in another. And I saw such fantastic tunnels only in the Japanese animes earlier: over the arch arch - two round windows - as if a face of some monster. And after ways - an entrance to the gorge where the small river goes down.

In the beginning we walked along the river to the big artificial falls made by monks for monastic hydroelectric power station (nowadays not the slaveotayushchy), bypassed around ancient monastic ruins, and returned to an entrance to the gorge, having bought tangerine juice and the biggest crab from aunties.

the Gorge, as well as a set of other similar southern places, pleasantly wrapped up us tenky, and the path along the river removed to small falls.

the Main sight of the gorge - the Saint Simon the Zealot`s cell which is in the rock. So we, choking, rose up several short flights of stairs. Horror where our forces disappeared? Last year on so many km on a heat ran! Also came to be before an entrance to a cave from where chants were heard. Inside it appeared closely, but it is cozy. The father said prayers, in stone niches there were icons, candles burned. But children were already tired - so we left not to disturb. Dima was surprised why I do not want to pray and put a candle, but frankly speaking, I in such here campaigns feel awkwardly - because went - that initially to have a good time, but not to pray. And there is no corresponding spirit. So it is better at us in Bibirevo, but properly, but not on the run.

On the way back we sat down at the river: children pomochit legs, Timokh rescued the bumblebee who fell in water, than was awfully proud, and also we ate our tasty crab.

Still saw a surprising dog who long stood and was cooled nearly up to a neck in water.

during our walk we two times were supported in cozy cafe with pizza and ice cream, and finally descended on the local beach. And already bought and happy (by the way, the clothes on the sun quickly dried!), jumped on the bus to Sukhumi.


we had a busy day!

Be continued.