Rus Articles Journal

The country of the won ZOZha. Part 1

the Country of the won ZOZha. So with a shade of disapproval of the Healthy lifestyle Hong Kong my husband nicknamed. Its grumble was caused by the bans which are hanged out across all Hong Kong to smoke. It is necessary to notice that here it is unfair! Really, prohibition signs are hanged out in any a little - malsk the equipped place where the sidewalk though a little and extends where the small bench where it is possible to look at something beautiful is put... And nevertheless! The ban to smoke, for example, in Europe means that your requirements disturb nobody - it is forbidden to smoke, and all here. The ban to smoke in Hong Kong practically is always followed by indexes on a smoking area, and it, as a rule, is a stone`s throw away. Another thing is that smart Hongkongers intentionally appoint smoking places in some not especially appetizing back streets, and not because it grieves them to put a shop, and specially that the smoker constantly felt what vital pleasures and beauty he the addiction loses. What will lead to such approach who will be exhausted in Hong Kong earlier - fans of cigarettes or fans fine - time, as they say, will show...

In ways

We flew to Hong Kong the Chinese airlines - Air China, tickets for two there and back were purchased on the Internet in September (avantix. ru) also cost us 54 thousand rubles. It was my first experience of flights by foreign airlines across Asia, and, it is necessary to notice, it did not leave a special positive. I repeatedly read enthusiastic comments of public on Qataris and Thais. Perhaps, Chinese strongly differ from them for the worse, and in comparison in “Trances“ or “Aeroflot“ we were deprived of an opportunity at the order of the ticket to choose the place on the plane and I go, are deprived of preliminary registration aboard the plane on the Internet, the Russian-speaking stewardess and movies, take-off lollipops, tea with a lemon, decent airport of departure, an opportunity to take with themselves (in baggage!) knife and lighter and other benefits. In exchange we received superfluous half a day of stay in a way and superfluous a take-off / landing at the Beijing airport. The red wine and beer which are included in the ticket price, but hidden by cunning Chinese “under a counter“ only for experienced did not rescue a situation. However, the Beijing airport in itself - a show quite amusing. At least, appeared it on the way “there“.


of Unexpectedness of “the Chinese specifics“ still in “Sheremetyevo - 2“ when we wandering at windows of registration and finding the, were caught by the staff of the airport and sent to the end of huge turn, the snake who was behind the horizon somewhere in other hall.“ To China it will be necessary to undergo special testing“, - explained to us. And this special check for only one million Chinese with whom together we flew to Beijing and for us two resulted only in one special machine on a prosvetka of baggage whom besides nobody was going to include in advance. Sadly observing as through our unpromising crowd filtered on registration of the Lord, departing to Milan, Kiev, Bishkek and other decent places, we took a steam bath in turn “for Chinese“, surpassing all imaginable sizes even for the second “Sheremetyevo“ glorified by turns.

the Following surprise expected us on approach to Beijing. Stewardesses, charmingly smiling, carried some papers.“ Migration cards“, - I thought. Also began to refuse - “we to you do not leave, we from you depart at once further, are not necessary to us“. But the young lady did not lag behind, and I, having been tired to speak languages, different with it, gave up - took the card, “that lagged behind“. And the card was not so migratory, and “the card of health“! All who at least one leg set foot on the Chinese land have to fill in “The map of health“. In it artful questions of our health and of a state of health of those whom we met for the last week, about our route, contact phones on a case of our sudden serious illness and so forth were set. Having put down at random daws opposite to unknown to us the terms meaning in English absence (or presence) at us various symptoms of swine flu, we in some confusion buried in the phrase:“ You will be responsible for reliability of the entered information on the Chinese laws“. The phrase (in total with our nasty English in which the map is filled in) strained. Who knows them, these Chinese laws?! Followed the place for a description of body temperature and the responsible`s list, this temperature of taken.

With a fateful look we expected a thermometer before the landing and missed declared, besides in English, temperature at the airport of Beijing. Something like“ minus 17 degrees“... Under a wing China without the slightest signs of snow where there were enough eyes stretched. We - that flew from winter Moscow, but in enough - warm Hong Kong, and somehow not really attended to temperature in transit Beijing - from “warm“ the husband had a jeans jacket, and I a flannel shirt. However, as it appeared, the man flying near us to Hainan “from warm“ had shorts and an undershirt at all. So we cheered up, at once having felt rather prepared for traveling adversities. But actually especially you should not have worried (at least, on the way “there“!) - the plane was picked up to a transition pipe, and here we already leave to the enormous building of the airport, having felt “minus 17“ only as an ice breeze blowing in a transition crack.

the Beijing airport impresses

! It is very big, I heard that the terminal where we arrived - the terminal, record in size, among passenger around the world. The crowd from our plane somehow is lost at once in such scales, lead moving paths to the passes which are guessed on the horizon. We follow a flow of passengers and stewardesses (identical “under a carbon paper“ from hairpins and cervical scarves to bags on castors). The check point looming in the distance was the thermal imager (instead of the expected thermometer) taking temperature to all crowd at once. The mass of surrounding Chinese, probably, well familiar with the Chinese laws, on the way to the thermal imager just in case sharply reduced body temperature to outboard - pakhnut sepulchral cold. Having shuddered, I felt as the most hot spot in the Universe, but the thermal imager did not become interested in me, and here we already have a stamp “is checked“, granting right for an entrance to China. Far farther?

Hong Kong cancelled visas to citizens of Russia. The Chinese visa is not necessary too since we are tranzitnik, we will leave China in the nearest future. We look for an arrow with an inscription, something reminding the word “transit“. At once to the right after the thermal imager we see a window, the crowd with skill moves forward, but to them - that to China, and we decide to specify our route, having put in this window the boarding pass to Hong Kong received even at registration for flight in Moscow. The young lady joyfully smiles from - for racks and writes number of a flight gate on the coupon - it is very convenient, further we follow according to indexes on this exit and we have no problems with orientation on open spaces of the airport.

At the airport of China too turns, but, in - the first are, they are not comparable with sheremetyevsky, and in - the second, are lost in huge rooms and do not look so terribly. From interesting - staffa move on open spaces of the airport on sigveyakh, earlier we saw this miracle only in the form of an attraction on streets of Europe. The Chinese promptly moves on him from a rack to a rack, maneuvering among passenger traffics a graceful deviation of the case, he feels as the real Dzhigit and enjoys this feeling - the show bewitches... From the next “Chinese specifics“ - on examination of safety withdraw a lighter from the husband. Yes, I about it read in advance. But did not believe. What for? the Only assumption - the selected lighters Chinese carry to sell back to us, to Moscow, as is one of income items of the airport. To check whether will open my transit baggage which I from Moscow to Hong Kong will not see at all if I put the knife forbidden to transportation across China with an edge of 7 centimeters in it, I did not decide. It is possible to smoke in China. Rooms for smoking in the airport meet regularly. As lighters at public are selected, ashtrays in them are completed with electrolighters as automobile, chained that did not take away.

Having drunk

on a cup of hot tasty coffee for 6 dollars (dollars, delivery in yuans) in the cafe conditioned up to the negative temperature near our flight gate and having admired microscopic cars on a magnetic pillow, transporting somewhere passengers behind a window, we pass in the plane. There is already no European left absolutely around. Soon Hong Kong.

the Symmetric way “back“ differed in

from a way “there“ cardinally. In the first days of the come year the Hong Kong newspapers began to write about the airport of Beijing which stuck in snow. We shuddered. By the time of our flying away air traffic was restored, but as it appeared, problems remained. Flying up to Beijing, we did not learn the airport - white - white... The crowds which are rushing about on terminal open spaces were not concealed by its sizes any more, passenger traffics somehow swirled strange, curled and pulled together zmeyashchimisya with turns in a close corridor in the most distant back street of an enormous network of rooms where ice conditioning mixed up with ice drafts from open doors and the kerosene smell which impregnated the building. Passengers were carried on planes by buses. Having done long - a long way (the airport - that enormous!) we reached to the plane torn, but which did not break through to an internal exit and stuck in snow drifts. There were meter three ways, and they became an insuperable barrier to our carefree landing through “gut“. It is necessary to notice that the layer of “snow drifts“ did not exceed 5, well, maybe, 8 centimeters. Whether snow in China - a big rarity and nevidal, and there is not known how to fight against it, whether all Chinese of the airport hit in trade in lighters and to clear away snow at them there is nobody - a riddle, but here “Sheremetyevo“ met us by habitual snowdrifts above a belt, and it did not influence the movement of planes in any way.

Hong Kong. Arrival

Three hours on the South, a thick layer of overcast scattered on a water smooth surface the ships, ships, boats and boats cling to summer to tops of mountains of the island clouds. Somewhere here, on one of the highest points of the island of Lantau big Buddha sits, but it it is not visible - rolled in fog. Hong Kong! At last, we stepped from winter at summer. Well, let not at summer, on the street +18, let at spring - it is so even better.

We fly in itself, nobody waits for us and meets, we have a reservation in Caritas Oswald Cheung International Hous hotel (a reminder: to pay HKD 4440. 00 for 10 nights), located in Aberdeen, on distant side of the island Hong Kong, vague representation that from the airport it is possible to reach by A10 bus there, and full freedom...

At the Chek Lap Kok airport we have to

: to fill migratory (the state of health concerns nobody here!) the card and to pass frontier control, to receive baggage, to find a map of the city and advertizing leaflets in information center, to get hold of cash in local currency via the ATM or through an exchanger, to stock up with Oktopus`s cards and, at last, to smoke.

Everything occurs in this order. Migration cards lie on racks before boxes of frontier control - leaflets in couples, at once under a carbon paper also the map on departure is filled in, we take it with ourselves. The turn, probably, resolved while we filled in maps, or perhaps and there was no it at all, turns. Our bag accurately goes on a conveyor tape, waiting for us - arrived from Moscow, and we also did not believe that it where it is necessary without our participation will overload in Beijing. Already missed the bag with a blue bow on the handle (a tag - from far away to distinguish the baggage from someone else`s load). On the hall with advantage the huge red sheep-dog strolls, shirks the Hong Kong customs officer, sniffs towards the bags flown from every corner of the world - what there, a bomb? And can... sausage?! Further at the rate Information center, it arises on the right and is filled with leaflets and brochures in different languages. In Russian, however, is not present! We take in English. Let`s read tomorrow, today not to reklamok, were tired. Here were mistaken! It appears, advertizing of the Hong Kong new year told us what improbable fireworks wait for us on the embankment of the island tonight. And we - and we, tired of the long road, fighting against a dream, waited for New Year`s midnight at themselves in number under the Australian shipuchka “A yellow tail“ (everything that we in the hours which remained about New year managed to find on the district more - less similar to “The Soviet champagne“) and a marvelous zagrilenny golden duck. Fireworks flew by by, well and it does not matter - but slept!

At once behind information center the people crowded in currency exchanger windows, but I heard that here take rather strong commission therefore we go to look for the ATM for an exchange. Nevertheless, we will remember an exchanger, and not for nothing - was useful on the way back to hand over the remains of local money. The first ATM did not agree to our card (VISA of “Sberbank“), but already the second recognized it. As subsequently it appeared, the commission the ATM undertakes not percentage of the withdrawn sum, and the address fact. That is, if we withdrew all sum spent by us in Hong Kong, at one go, then would lose 90 rubles on this operation. And so far as we removed small packs, and paid 90 rubles for each approach to a shell. During all trip we still only once faced failure of the ATM to support our card, in all other cases of a money were accurately counted, and problems were not. Moreover, the last appeal to the ATM sprained under a hand brought us 200 Hong Kong dollars cash, and here their removal from the card did not happen then, and still. Here where it was necessary to do shopping - that a cash! And here attempt to pay with the card for hotel success was not crowned - moreover, the bank rejected the authorization requested at payment, and here blocked money, and and this blocking 31 days - till the February dangled, having brought almost 500 dollars out of our turn. However, the Hong Kong... It is more we to pay in card and did not try, only the ATM! From there is council: for a start to try to pay the card the insignificant sum (to pay one days) and, only if payment took place, to pay off to the full extent.

Now Oktopus. The card is intended generally for payment of journey in transport, it is possible to pay in it in large shop too, but upon such purchases money on the card quickly comes to an end, and it is possible to fill up it far not continually. To pay Oktopus for the ticket in the tram for Peak or to Buddha will cost dearer, than cash. In a small shop at all on Oktopus a nose bend, but for usual payment of journey a thing, really, exclusively convenient. It is necessary to notice, in eyes Oktopusyatnika is firm (unlike an exchanger, the ATM and information center) for some reason did not rush, the information display and indexes her were held back too - it was necessary to ask staff. It appeared, near it and we stand. In advance we decided to take ordinary Oktopus - purely for payment, without any travel cards and museum tickets not to lose leeway in the choice of a route. At the same time the card costs HKD 150, from them 50 are considered as pledge, they will be returned at Oktopus`s delivery on the way back, and 100 come to your asset for payment. In general, strange business, Oktopus is made to minimize circulation of cash, nevertheless, Oktopus it is impossible to pay with the card (VISA) - only a cash...

At last, all plans as though, are executed. To smoke also on the bus - especially as on inquiries about all this staffa wave a hand in one direction. We go to look for the room for smoking which appears... Correctly! The ordinary spat ballot box with the ashtray standing on the street before an entrance to the airport. So far the husband enjoys the end of flight, having seized upon a cigarette, and at the same time becomes attached to the district of GPS, I am engaged in reconnaissance on the district - here they, buses, absolutely nearby. We look for the A10. The bus ticket Oktopusikov almost half cost ours, we get on the second the floor also we stick to windows. GPS, flickering multi-colored sparks, watches that we approached hotel and did not pass it (coordinates of hotel in booking. com).

the Road from the airport to hotel the most interesting - we get acquainted with Hong Kong and furthermore, we pass it practically from the end in the end. The bridges connecting islands, the long and very beautiful. Somehow so it happened that we did not see them any more - to Buddha went by the subway, came back to the airport on the aeroexpress train - and openwork extensions of huge flights remained in memory from this first trip. Unexpectedly already on the island the bus turns to the right and winds along the coast, going to territories opposite to ceremonial side of Hong Kong, to our Aberdeen. For some reason I considered that we will go via the tunnel in the central part as, actually, all the time then we also went from hotel to the city, and instead we squeeze at first on very narrow small streets, and is farther along the twisting coastline, coming nearer, moving away from the sea.

Here and the first funny nature - not only that Hong Kong - the stone jungle, it we knew, and came to watch at it, so this “jungle“ as it appeared, are located also on quite steep slopes. Hong Kong is made of mountains! It is very original - the skyscrapers clambering everything up - up and up! The show of skyscrapers on a slope of mountains is unusual, and it struck before the departure.

the Second surprise - almost universal lack of balconies - we long. Probably, and in a hotel room, ordered “whenever possible“, the balcony to us will not be. Were mistaken! The balcony in number just also was. And receive if asked! Here only this balcony was made not for people - on it the conditioner lived, and an exit from number to this balcony was not. In new constructions balconies in houses which - where already meet and, it is necessary to notice, are in great demand! It is visible how everyone is used and adapted by residents square santimetrik the fallen-down happiness. Why balconies were not done earlier - a riddle. It would seem - the scarce place (on the earth) is not taken, and useful area is expanded. Though Hongkongers build the skyscrapers end-to-end and very tightly... Perhaps and at them the place is not enough for balconies. But cunning residents adapt - hooks, sticks and pipes stick out of each window of each inhabited skyscraper on the street, and ropes of the most different configuration are tense on them, and dangle on them on special hangers with clothespegs (and you know what wind at height of some 45th floor!) Hong Kong pants, socks and body stockings. Also all skyscraper as if wants to wave all these feathers is rinsed in them, to spread wings and to depart somewhere to a foggy distance...


Tortuosity of the coastline, and, therefore, are expensive, led to the fact that instrument readings of GPS were stirred - we were at distance kilometer from the point of appointment, one and a half, already six hundred meters, and then again two kilometers - it deprived of us confidence in success of the enterprise. And we decided to resort to the help of the driver, having shown him the address of hotel printed on a piece of paper. It is not really successful! As it appeared then, the bus passed steps in fifty from our hotel, the driver, having seen in the address the name of the area Aberdeen, posomnevavshis, decided to land us for certain - on the central bus terminal of Aberdeen, and it is already a little far away. Then we went to this central terminal every time to go to the city - from there the most convenient message - but it then, and now it was necessary to orient somehow in this mash of skyscrapers. Studying in advance a district map where we should live, I was surprised to abundance of “courts“ - we will lodge among stadiums! On the district it turned out that “courts“ are called groups of the skyscrapers united in one housing estate - such neboskrebny condominiums, often even fenced with a small fence, where if it is possible to enter (the gate is not locked), then there do not wait for you. On the one hand the river flew. As then it appeared (to this “river“ there were our windows), it was the known sight of Hong Kong - the fishing village of Aberdeen. Old boats - Pour sampana and watercrafts of all colors which served the adapted for housing on water in the passage between our island Hong Kong and a small island of Ap Chau. GPS led us along this water resource somewhere aside, and then and deep into a multystoried mash.

At independent travel, and especially in the conditions of almost insuperable language barrier, a way from the plane to a hotel room - action very responsible. Having thrown a bag in number, having changed clothes after the journey and having gone to the first walk, you feel already absolutely differently - all this new world at your legs and waits how you will look at it. Until settling in number occurred, from you it is required to orient, reach, speak, agree about the wishes - to make different actions in which success you are not so confident since the place new, and orders in it are unfamiliar to you.

the Trip was planned by

for the Newest year, and for reliability, except actually armor through booking. com, I was written off with hotel - asked to confirm a reservation. The hotel answered quickly and confirmed everything. It encouraged. To find still it.... And here our guiding GPS once again proved to be from the best party! Having wound some inconceivable lanes, we left to hotel which was quite identified in appearance according to the photo on booking. com. Before the trip we decided to correct a few plans - to spend the night the last night at the airport since our departure was early enough in the morning, and night all the same was coming almost sleepless. To change a reservation through booking. com did not become, having solved when settling it is simple to specify that we will leave not 10 - oho, and 9 - oho January. By rules of hotel penalties for cancellation of armor began at cancellation only in a day, to 10 - oho numbers was even more 10 - ti days so we did not expect any problems with it. And in vain. Problems were. Girls on a reception, having conferred, for some reason advised us to change booking through booking. com, having found where - nibud Internet access for now occupied us, as well as it was ordered, to 10 - oho (here you will change the booking then we will replace date of departure). I, generally speaking, did not understand the reason and did not expect it in any way. From there is council: whenever possible before the trip to correct the plans on the Internet, without leaving process of dismantling “to the place“. However, until the Internet cafe somewhere got to us, we decided not to leave before planned and to change became nothing. Whether the staff of hotel also tried to obtain it?

Hong Kong. Aberdeen. 30 Caritas Oswald Cheung International House
hotel. 12. 2009 - 10. 01. 2010

Additional photographic materials here

Be continued.