Italy: rules of the traveler
Behind a window of the train turn green fields, from the slightly opened window leaf the smell of a smoke and spring reaches. January 24. Three-hour travel from Florence to Rome opened eyes on the bitter, terrifying truth: our life - an everyday feat which is not obligatory for making at all! It is not obligatory to rise after dark and to push out the body exhausted from a dream at the battery in cruel winter space. It is not obligatory to pull a space suit of ski trousers and hoods, leaving to long in a case summer dresses and easy sandals. To silly visit a sunbed and to drink winter antidepressants if it is possible to live in the place where always the sun, vitamins, greens, and snow drops out time in eight years.our travel to spring began and ended with
in resort Rimini. In foggy winter evening the city reminds scenery to the horror film: rare tourists go among hotels with the closed sun blind at windows, the whole quarters of empty buildings and somewhere in the distance through crude fog the spark of an open pizzeria dawns. Too thin.
Early in the morning our group leaves for Florence. In the bus middle-aged ladies cackle, the guide tells about San - Marino where cheap leather bags and footwear are on sale. The group will stay in Florence about five hours that then three and a half hours to go by this bus back... Long ago having decided that excursions - the evil, we abandoned friends at the first point of information for tourists designated by the letter “i“. There received a free map of the city, the schedule of work of art galleries and couple of useful tips from the signora in a help window. Council for an occasion of cheap hotels did not begin to be asked as thought of the destiny in advance, having reserved hostel (hostelworld. com) near San Square - Lorenzo.
Florence smelled for us of skin - because is famous for leather products, and their full range is on sale in the market San - Lorenzo. Unlike our poor “three-stars“ “Happy“ to Rimini, the Florentine hotel it is noted by one asterisk under which we found the cozy room with it is white - blue doll furniture, a wooden sun blind at windows and the friendly porter Fabricio. The double room cost 52 euros. About sights, obligatory for visit, we learn from the guide of “Poster“.the Area at a cathedral of Duomo leaves to
feeling of an impassable second-hand market though in January it is a little tourists here. Too many outstanding monuments are concentrated on small space: the cathedral capable to accomodate 90 thousand parishioners, Giotto`s belltower, a Romance baptistery of San Giovanni adorned with reliefs with a Golden Renaissance Gate which copy is established in Kazan Cathedral. >
It is much more pleasant to p to spend time at Senyoriya Square - spacious and light, it is decorated with the impressive bronze and marble sculptures, however, which are not overloading space. The copy of “David“ Michelangelo in surroundings of the ancient area looks more harmoniously, than in an interior of the Moscow museum of Pushkin. Bronze feelers of blood whip from the head of a jellyfish, prostrate “Perseus“ Benvenuto Cellini in a loggia of Lantsi; right there are ancient Roman marble matrons, between them students seated, listen to lecture on history of arts, examining a masterpiece of Dzhambolonyi “Stealing a sabinyanok“. It is necessary to admire beauty of the area standing or walking as benches are not provided. Americans and Europeans fearlessly sit at marble steps, and for the Russian travelers we removed a rule number one: to have with itself the tourist rug which is cut out in a seat form on an elastic band. With such thermal insulation in winter Italy you will not be gone, whether it be in Florence or on St. Pyotr`s area in Rome.
on the way to Stary Bridge which is built up with jewelry stores we tick off in the must do list: we buy two balls of the ice cream cooked right there in a dzhelateriya. As absolute not - the fan of this food I confirm: the Italian ice cream should be tasted surely. A pistachio ball in a wafer cup and the turning pink clouds overlooking hills and the river Arno in a gleam of arches on Pontus of Vekkyo - you will not wish the best evening.
Having had supper the Neapolitan tuna and capers pizza, we went to Orsanmikele`s church which is looked after even in the afternoon to listen to body. In the dark streets change. We, apparently, got lost, but, having heard echoes of body and angelic chorus, moved on a sound. Music everything is more heard, we pass further, looking around at a Gothic cathedral, it does not appear, and singing ceases. Having run about on narrow small streets behind illusive chorus, we leave - to Orsanmikele, the church is closed, but reminiscence of an invisible concert remain the most precious souvenir from Florence.
Among other gifts of the capital of Tuscany - the figured paper bought from the severe old man - an artritik on boondocks of Senyoriya Square, a bag from sound thick skin. And also firm tart cheese parmedzhano, gorgonzola, soft with a noble mold, salami sausages in the peel which turned white from salt, red wine of a chianti in a bottle with a black rooster. All this food was put to use next day in Rome when the second rule of the traveler was approved: without having time for searches get prettier osteriya, to buy local delicacies in the central market and to use them in picturesque bushes overlooking the Middle Ages or antiquity. But before getting to Rome, we spent the first Florentine morning in one of the best-known galleries of the world.
It was that rare morning when to Ufizzi the hours-long turn does not zmeitsya. As well as all tourists, we first of all went to the
In the second corridor an unexpected meeting: over the marble aunt with an accordion a portrait of the person with characteristic moustaches. Let`s specify in the plate - precisely, Peter I! Further - one of the best places in Ufizzi, a terrace on a roof: between teeth hills, Duomo`s dome are visible, and nearly a hand it is possible to reach to hours and the coats of arms on a tower of the Palace of Vekyo. The sun warms, the breeze inflates hair, the fat Florentine sparrow jumps, and the Chinese woman near appetite eats fragrant pizza. Third rule of the traveler: it is better to walk on historical sights and the museums in the winter or in the early spring when not hot and there are not enough tourists.
To Rome, we arrived to the Eternal city after dark, that is by five o`clock. Romani`s Arches - the remains whether a viaduct, whether an aqueduct, near the hostel of the same name became the only impression of evening. Actually, it is the four-room apartment turned by residents from the next entrance in pass - hotel. We were met by the dear grandmother with the granddaughter, eight-year-old Lesya stirs on Italian and Polish, speaks a little in Russian and studies at school English - the real child - the cosmopolitan; she was born in Ukraine, grew up in Warsaw and the last two years lives in Italy. Her old man Giuseppe, the retired teacher of economy, too poorly - poorly expresses in English and is eager for communication with new people. Therefore, probably, they with the spouse supported the hotel project of the son. In “Arco Romano Rooms“ everything is arranged with love and care, there is a wish to trust, owners will not be disappointed, having met guests face to face during a high season. Next morning, having independently made coffee and having warmed croissant in kitchen of hotel (the Italian breakfast traditionally very easy), we left keys on an empty rack a reception and slammed a door of the hospitable house.
Unlike the tourist group which was in time to see all obligatory sights of Rome in five hours we were in time less. Walked to the Colosseum, crossed ruins of antique forums, on the quiet street of Saint Theodor reached Massimo`s Circus - the huge empty field overgrown with a grass, and rose by the hill Aventin. The square at a basilica Sabina`s Saint is designed so that entering through the central gate at once sees a panorama of Rome with Saint Pyotr`s dome in the center. Gravelly paths are surrounded with the Mediterranean pines, stone pines, tangerine trees and lemons in terracotta tubs. Here mothers with carriages and aunts with Pekineses walk, and only water in a column rustles. Having admired Tiber and domes, we tick off in the list couple more: tasted tangerine directly from a tree (it was bitter, decorative), turned a column with the purest Roman water into drinking fountainlet - having closed a finger the crane, it is possible to direct a stream through the second, small hole up.
From Aventin returned to forums and Capitol Hill. The statue of the she-wolf who raised Romula and Ram was small, the area of design of Michelangelo - grandiose, and we climbed an imperceptible ladder to a lateral entrance to Santa Maria in Aracoeli church. Each chapel opens a new fresco and a name of the famous artist here. In a room to the left of an altar there is a wooden baby in gold armor. Armor is made of the melted gifts to Saint Bambino - it is considered that the baby is made of a tree of Garden of Gethsemane and possesses miracle properties. People, whose desires it granted, send to Bambino gifts and letters of thanks from all over the world - here they, are accurately put in baskets around pink-checked a miracle - the baby. I asked for Bambini the child whom year we with the husband tried to conceive. I do not know whether it hands business, but soon I became pregnant.
On the road from the Capitol to St Peter`s Basilica to us the overpopulated ruins (fifteen variegated cats are the share of one square meter), the houses similar to ancient Roman insula, and the dealer in huge macaroni met. Soon the Lock of the Sacred Angel and the bridge in Trastevere, the Roman “Zarechny“ seemed. Under the bridge there lives “bearded man“ - so citizens call the bums arranged unlike it is better than ours. Local “barbuto“ spend the night in sleeping bags and carefully clean boots.
the Majestic look which opens on the way to the main Roman cathedral and “facade“ of Vatican - San - Pietro are supplemented by the cheerful Black children selling “Prada“, “Dolchi“ and “Gabana“ at the price from 10 to 40 euros. At the end of January in the center of the area still there are figures of a Christmas den and the fir-tree which is generously watered with silvery “rain“. The acquaintance who studies year at the Vatican East institute became the main sight of Rome for us. Alberto brought in tourist gallop though slightly regularity - slowly talking, we wandered around San - Pietro, and through a couple of hours Rome began to turn from a set of the beautiful pictures flashing as the movie, in live feelings, in part of our personal history.
From Rome us was taken away by the tourist bus, and here the guide of the Danko company coolly left the elderly lady from group though her companions also shouted that supposedly the old woman is not even able to use phone. The guide calmed public ridiculous stories how her tourists were lost and came back to hotel with amusing adventures. Next morning the old woman was ready to be shipped to Venice, on questions as she reached, severely answered: “Self-locking device!“
In Venice we decided everything - to try excursion, but it was the most inconvenient city for walk with radio transmitters with a radius of action of 70 m - the guide should curtail into the following small street, the earphone in panic rustles, forcing to look only at own running legs. The guide allowed to examine shortly magic St. Mark`s Basilica and moved on secret streets slightly aside from other crowds of tourists. But this walk it set a vicious circle about which all members of group were doomed to wander before the general collecting. So fourth rule of the traveler: in advance to read guides, never to be tempted with excursions, first of all to look for a map of the city and already on it to lay a personal route.
In Venice we sat on the wooden mooring coming to the main city street, the Big Channel: stared at gondolas with happy Chinese and old men singing under an accordion. Drank in tiny cafe red Vermouth with ice, tonic, a segment of orange and a huge olive on a stick, tried carnival donuts with cream and east sweets with candied fruits and nuts. Watched how from an orange glass ball the horse as paper is extended burns, having concerned already “cooled down“ sculpture, chose jewelry of Murano glass. Rode on vaporetto № 1, having too late understood that the ticket for the water bus works within an hour and allows to make out the best palaces of Venice. We left the city by train, having jumped into the car at the last moment, together with clowns from Padua. We were waited by a dinner in Bologna.
It was already too dark to watch Bologna, and our owners - Elena, her husband Luka and the friend of the family Henrique - seriously undertook searches of empty seats at Friday restaurants. As a result we appeared in the town nearby, in a tavern, imperceptible for the stranger, “At mother“. The Italian dinner is worthy the separate guide. At first the kind innkeeper brings to everyone on a dish with paste a bolognese and pelmeshka with spinach and ricotta - tortelon. You eat too much, washing down this magnificence with dry red wine. But! The owner, without accepting any protests, orders a big plate with broth and tiny meat pelmeshka - tortelin or the fried thoroughly soft pork. At the worst, tomatoes, onions and grated carrot salad - bring a flat dish with ingredients which the client himself fills with olive oil, balsam vinegar, salt and pepper. For those who preferred to eat a solid portion of meat after paste Italians thought up digestive - the limoncello helping digestion and “making“ room for tiramisu or the most delicate dessert “The young lady of a cat“. Limoncello - sweet liqueur from grape alcohol, infused on huge Italian lemons which ice need to drink. Indispensable property of a detailed Italian dinner - conversation during which we learned, for example, that unlike Russia where nine children are the share of ten little girls, in Italy there are not enough girls. So the project was born: Italy and Russia could conclude the diplomatic agreement providing favorable conditions for cross-cultural marriages. We so estimated: the small paid holiday in Italy for all unmarried girls of Russia - quite good means for the solution of matrimonial difficulties of thousands of bachelors of reproductive age.
After a dinner we visited on a visit at happy cross-country - cultural couple, and Luka taught to cook the strongest Italian coffee in the coffee maker - a geyser. The fast and pleasant road on the car to Rimini finally convinced us of fidelity of the fifth rule: look for meetings with natives, nobody will tell about the country better, than its inhabitants.
P. S.: This bulky report did not hold messages about the Florentine frescos, the Roman architecture, the Venetian lions, a fish market and red sweet oranges, about picnic on the beach, arugula, Saturday walks and foreigners in Italy, night porters and Tuscan villages. Words are powerless to describe all adventures which fell down us in only one week while all other people had a usual heavy Monday, the labor environment, a work involving all hands on Thursday and a sit-round gathering in kitchen on Friday. Therefore finally rule sixth: not to forget that travel is a temporary loop which will return you to a starting position sooner or later. If only you did not decide to marry the Italian.