Life on Nile of
If you consider that the trip to Egypt is like departure on the distant dacha by the warm sea where it is good to go in the winter or in the fall behind a sun drink, preparing for cruise across Nile, it is better to get rid of this stereotype, as well as of the spread-around glossy image of Egypt.
All who, having a rest at the sea in Egypt, ever ventured tiresome excursion to Luxor or Cairo, know how it occurs. A set of buses, crowds of the exhausted tourists which are inertly going for guides on a heat. The guides with jokes and humourous catchphrases retelling an obligatory minimum, and benches where from a hopelessness you buy some bulyzhnikopodobny scarab or spirits “much more naturally than the presents“. However there is a different way to adjoin to a great ancient civilization of Egypt is a travel across Nile by motor ship.
Cruises across Nile once were the privilege of very wealthy people, but today from Luxor to Aswan the flotilla consisting more than of 300 vessels goes. The standard program of travel on such vessel is calculated on five days. It is possible to float up Neil from Luxor to Aswan, it is possible to move down, from Aswan to Luxor. There is an expanded seven-day cruise, but it should be recommended only to those who really are interested in Ancient Egypt. According to five-stars standards of service the certain guide speaking the native language of tourists and familiar with Egyptology relies upon each six passengers.
to us had to travel on the most beautiful vessel. Oberoi Philae - a remark of the wheel river steamship which atmosphere allows to look at Egypt eyes of the enthusiastic traveler of the past era. Oberoi Philae differs from steamships by which wealthy Europeans and Americans traveled around Nile before World War II only in the diesel engine yes in details of bathrooms. For the rest is a magnificent example of colonial style, with the parquet floors, period furniture in salons scrubbed to gloss by copper plates and a handrail, Damask carpets, mirrors, the Chinese vases and the main thing - with the balconies arranged in each cabin.
Style of communication of personnel with passengers well matched to a situation. Stewards are ceremonious, affable and for the second day know habits and preferences of guests. The managing director of motor ship Mr. Michael personally watches that around guests the atmosphere of comfort and east luxury was created. Great pleasure to come back here after excursion. The travelers who were on a heat are met by the cooled wet towel wipes and glasses with grapefruit drink.
Fellow travelers on Oberoi Philae very pleasant. The vessel is designed for only 112 passengers and is popular as fine means for a honeymoon trip. With us in cruise there were five couples of newlyweds: Americans, Italians, Indians and Lebanese. Every evening the administration handed to one of couples huge wedding cake, and poor fellows had to beg neighbors to eat at least a piece. Other passengers of the most different age and nationalities, from gray-haired ladies from Australia to vigorous young people from Germany. Dress - the code accepted on the vessel is observed sacredly. If on the TV in a cabin broadcasting the program of day pay attention that there will be black and white party in the evening, then it is possible not to doubt: an absolute appearance in it is black - white dresses it will be provided.
Luxor - ancient Thebes
In the first day passengers visit Karnaksky and Luxor temples. Karnak devoted to god Amon Ra is widely known for the avenue of sphinxes with the heads of rams and the hall of columns (the Hypostylish hall). Besides these two sights in the huge complex which was under construction not one era there is a mass of interesting places which should be seen, walk with the competent guide will take a lot of time. Back travelers get to Luxor already in twilight that gives the chance to see the embankment and the Luxor temple already illuminated. It is really beautiful.
Luxor is that ancient Thebes, capital of Pharaohs of the Average, and then and the New kingdom, so often mentioned in the Greek and Roman descriptions. On this earth there was a set of different civilizations, but in Egypt above all appreciate ancient classics. For this reason in Luxor take down mansions of the end of XIX now - the beginnings of the XX century which are quite often built by architects from Europe. Beautiful houses destroy therefore, for example, that under a quarter found the avenue of sphinxes. The Luxor public protests and writes angry letters to newspapers, but, seemingly, not to stop process. Thus, from the city which Agatha Christie admired once nothing will remain soon. It is good still that the magnificent hotel Winter Palace where notable travelers stopped, operated nowadays by the Sofitel network, is firm. There it is necessary to glance to admire a grandiose ladder and an enormous crystal chandelier. From steps of this ladder conducting in hotel, the famous archeologist Howard Carter in 1922 declared opening of a tomb of Tutankhamun. And today here it is impossible to get a number less than for 500 euros.the First night the motor ship costs
in Luxor, and excursion to the City of the dead - Valley of the Kings where once dug out the well-known tomb of Tutankhamun, nearly only which was not plundered by professional plunderers at 6 in the morning starts. The 6th mornings, by the way, - fine time for such trip. Valley of the Kings represents the stony desert surrounded with mountains and here it is impossible hot since morning. Therefore you should not be tempted on offers to be passed to tombs in crew or astride donkeys. We observed start and the finish of group of such brave equestrians. General fun, indulgent views of the weaklings hiding in the conditioned buses in the beginning; a dejected look and, most likely, the beaten-off soft places at the end. Generally, protect forces for survey of tombs.
Underground tombs look very cozy and even cheerful constructions. No associations with terrible traps or the recovered mummies arise. Warm gentle colors of lists where blue and okhryany shades, intricate drawings narrating about resettlement of the Pharaoh to other world prevail. In this lonely place governors of Egypt built to themselves houses for new life which was considered obviously best of all terrestrial.
concerning the further program can consult to the guide because options are possible. Visit of Der ale - Medina, the temple of the queen Hatshepsut, Ramesses II`s temple, Memnon`s Colossuses. In principle, it is possible to capture everything. In our opinion the huge terrace temple of the queen Hatshepsut who is built in a natural rocky amphitheater, most vpechatlyayushch. It was restored (and it is still restored) by the Polish archeologists in the XX century. The temple at the same time is associated with a dam of hydroelectric power station and Lenin`s Mausoleum. At a view of it it becomes clear from where the industrial architecture of a functionalism undertook. Sculptures which are nowadays restored look especially dramatically against strict verticals which form the temple.
Hatshipsut, the mysterious woman - the Pharaoh, most likely, was an uncommon ruler and a talented piarshchitsa. In vain her stepson Tutmos III tried to destroy all images of the queen, memory of it is still live.
From Luxor to Essna
to Reflect on destiny of the woman - the Pharaoh we will be already in a cabin because by noon it is necessary to return on the vessel. It is time to sail. On the road, of course, will not do without visit of so-called Alabaster factory. It is the small lodge to the full filled by stone gods, scarabs and other products of local handymen. Dear client is met by the seller who to show that his production is worked from natural material, but not from colored plaster, a beret of two cats, stone and plaster. Then, like the hussar who is cutting down a saber a neck to a champagne bottle he strongly strikes with a stone cat plaster and takes down unfortunate the head. It is a pity for a cat...
Departure from Luxor - process mass, the majority of cruises start on Tuesdays or Saturdays therefore vessels go even not a caravan, but a flotilla, signaling, overtaking each other and making at the same time maneuvers, very dangerous according to the profane person. Members of teams of all cruise vessels on Nile, including captains, - natives of the city of Elmeniya. Anybody of them has no vocational education. Secrets of a profession pass here from father to son. There were cases when shipowners tried to destroy monopoly of elmeniyets and employed the diplomaed captains, but from this nothing good was impossible. Only river transport workers from Elmeniya are able to drive masterly the ships across Nile. As all of them are fellow countrymen, members of teams of different vessels welcome each other loud shouts, swing hands and in general create the atmosphere of joyful excitement.
Before mooring in Isna, the vessel passes thresholds through the lock constructed at a hediva Muhammad Ali in 1834. Then not minute quantity of monuments of antiquity to which paid attention only when the monument suited for a gift to some foreign power was flooded.
Before entering a lock, vessels reduce the course, and then they are attacked by dealers by boats. They wait for Oberoi Philae with special enthusiasm. Having swum up, cry out the price, throw goods on decks and wait that compassionate tourists, having seen their desperate and dangerous maneuvers, something will buy. Balconies of our Oberoi Philae - a convenient target. Dealers awake with the cries and a throwing of any souvenirs the tourists who dozed off on balconies. Those are half asleep frightened and, remembering orders of guides of nothing to take from hands stuck, throw off goods in water. Dealers with curses catch goods and right there shower something brand new. The representatives of the port authorities leaving on motorka allegedly to disperse dealers, are powerless, and those do not lag behind only in dangerous proximity a lock.
the motor ship in Isna - the town where the grown rich dealers in fruit once lodged Spends the night. On the embankment several mansions in the European style remained. It is possible to admire the embankment and a promenade of locals for whom arrival of vessels - an event in the evening. And it is possible to make a foot walk or to employ crew.Next day Oberoi Philae does to
two stops: in the morning that travelers saw Idfu`s Temple, in the evening - for visit of the temple Come are Ombo. In Come - Ombo where we come already in twilight, effectively illuminated temple built already during the Hellenistic era is devoted to two gods at once. The left sanctuary is devoted to god Hor with the head of a falcon, and right - to god Sebek whom ancient Egyptians represented with the head of a crocodile. A row arranged the Museum of crocodiles where it is optional to come because its main exhibits - expressionless mummies of these Amphibia.
Aswan - the city sovetsko - the Egyptian friendship
Builders of the temple in Come - Ombo hoped that god Sebek will take in hand Nile inhabitants, and they will cease to attack people and buffalo s. Looking at absolutely opaque river water, as if created to ambush on shoal it is easy to present that local reptiles got to themselves food without special works. What god Sebek did not deign to make was made by the Soviet builders, having built the Aswan dam. All crocodiles, as well as hippopotamuses, to full disappointment of tourists, went above on the Nile Current, to Sudan and Ethiopia. Water in Nile in its lower current is not suitable for life of reptiles. Tell that three years ago one crocodile ran away from a private zoo in Giza and its destiny is unknown.
In Aswan where the motor ship comes the fourth day towards evening, the landscape strikingly changes. Here at last there are those granite rocks which cast gloomy mood over heroes of the book of Agatha Christie “Death on Nile“. Water in the river becomes purer, the proximity of the filters installed before a dam of Aswan hydroelectric power station affects. In this city all very much love Russians and regret that they seldom visit Aswan. We were asked why export of Volga cars which are praised by local old residents is stopped.
the Construction of a dam which is carried out by means of the Soviet Union turned the unimportant town into the city which is arranged well to the Egyptian measures where many people with the higher education live. Aswan with its numerous parks, embankments, green islands on Nile and the liberal atmosphere is considered the good place for life. Here the Egyptian stars of show - business, actors and just wealthy people buy houses. The only minus - here is much hotter, than in lower reaches of Nile.
of Dams in Aswan two: old, finished in 1902 and then several times built on, from - behind which flooded fair quantity of monuments too, and new. It is impossible to tell that the well-known dam very much of a vpechatlyayushch, but asuanets love it. Around it everything is set with the blossoming trees, flower beds are arranged. Only under a monument sovetsko - the Egyptian friendship the pool for some reason dried up. The monument is beautiful and velichestven. Architects P. Pavlov and Yu. Omelchenko, whose names are depicted on one of walls, created the expressive embodiment of history and the present of Egypt. According to the special application it is possible to rise on the special elevator by a top of a monument and to examine the opening view of Nile and Nasser`s lake formed after construction of a dam.
the Lake extends on 500 kilometers to the Sudan, and too it is possible to travel around it by Eugenie motor ship which, as well as Oberoi Philae, is issued in colonial style. On the lake it is possible to reach Abu - Simbela, to see Kalabsh`s temples, Vadi Ale - Sebua and Amada. All of them were transferred before construction of a dam. - Simbela it is possible to reach Abu also on the car, the trip from Aswan and will back take the whole day. Beyond Aswan the territory of ancient Nubia begins. Nubians, whose beauty is glorified by photos Leni Rifenstal, make a separate ethnic group with the language and traditions. During construction of hydroelectric power station Nubians as the unreliable and uncivilized tribe, were violently moved from Aswan. Now it is tried to be smoothed. In the city the Museum of nubian culture is open (the effective project under the care of UNESCO), Nubians can go to the universities, lodge in Aswan below across Nile, for example, in Come - Ombo. But all the same they prefer to lead a secluded life, to marry and marry only in a community.to See
that it the temple postponed to the last stone, is possible also in Aswan. The temple Phil devoted to Isida in honor of whom our vessel is called nowadays from the native island is postponed for other nice island, for simplicity called Phil too. It is possible to reach it on a small motor boat. In general if to make walk across Nile by the boat or a sailing felyuga, then it is necessary to do it in Aswan. Picturesque islands, the largest of which, undoubtedly, - Elefantina, it is easy to recognize by a tower of Movenpick hotel and the ugly concrete unfinished construction which is nearby. A botanical garden, at last, luxurious hotel Old Cataract in which Agatha Christie wrote the novel “Death on Nile“ perfectly look from water. Now the hotel on reconstruction, the curious tourist has no opportunity to sit on the well-known “Elephant terrace“ and to visit 1902 restaurant. Before reconstruction of Old Cataract in 2005 Conde Nast Traveler “by s Gold List the most picturesque hotel of Africa and the Middle East was declared.
the program in Aswan also includes visit of a granite pit where the stele which began to be cut from the stone massif lies, but then from - for cracks threw. The obelisk was ordered by that queen Hatshepsut who was a good judge of public relations. The trip to stone quarries allows to present how many lives were once ruined during creation of the granite obelisks decorating nowadays Paris and Rome. Just it is heavy even to stand among the heated stones. On a legend, exactly here, to Siena as called Aswan in the ancient time, the emperor Tibery sent into exile the old poet - the satirist Yuvenal, the author of the well-known aphorism “A sound mind in a sound body“.
Laterdny day of cruise is a walk on the Botanical garden on the island of Kitchener called by name not really popular English governor of Aswan which collected a unique collection of plants. Walk here - farewell to Aswan and Nile if, of course, there are no plans to sweep to Abu - Simbela. It is possible to say goodbye to Nile, but it cannot be forgotten. The greatest river which gave the modern name to this country (antique Greeks called it Egiptos), expresses an essence of Egypt. It was understood ancient and also modern residents of the country well understand it. The river has no nicknames, nobody will call it “Nile - the father“. Nile is Nile, and nothing needs to be added. This name is majestic, and it is concluded in it too much.can Reach by
Luxor in several ways. In - the first, from Cairo by plane. It is possible to fly from St. Petersburg the Turkish airlines with joining in Istanbul. Or from the Moscow Domodedovo direct flight of the Egyptian Air company to Cairo. It is better to stay in the Mena House hotel located directly at pyramids of Giza. Here the guide who will accompany them and on the vessel can already join travelers. To Luxor from Cairo too by plane, also as well as back, from Aswan to Cairo.
at midday. There is an hour to settle in cabins. Then lunch, About three hours p.m. - the excursion program, which in Luxor the most saturated. Choosing the vessel, it is worth remembering that it is unreasonable to save on conveniences in such cruise. Near Nile always hot, in October, for example, temperature can be about + 40? C. Cabins with big panoramic windows heat up instantly, and bad central air can make a trip painful.