Rus Articles Journal


Musk - one of the most mysterious ingredients in the perfumery industry, it treats the category of perfumery classics on an equal basis with ambergris.

the Word “musk“ comes from Latin “muscus“, and to Latin this word came from Sanskrit where it meant “scrotum“ or “small egg“. What is musk? It is an odorous product, it can have as animal, so a vegetable or synthetic origin. Musk is applied in perfumery to creation of fragrant compositions - it is known that musk well fixes and improves smells.

Musk of an animal origin is a product which is allocated from musky glands of some mammals, and it is only about males. Musk is emitted by such animals as a deer, a musk deer, a musk ox, a muskrat, etc. In nature musk plays a role of a chemical signal which animals use to mark the territory, for attraction of individuals of an opposite sex, musk is used also for wool greasing. Musk as viscous granular weight burovato - brown color with a characteristic smell looks.

Initially musk was received from musky glands of a musk deer - the small deer living in the mountain woods of the Himalayas, Tibet, Eastern Siberia, Korea and Sakhalin. To extract musk, animals had to be killed. For receiving one kilogram of musk killed with of 30 - 50 deer. interesting record of the famous Russian traveler Afanasy Nikitin about how extracted musk Remained:“ At deer house cut navels - musk will be born in them, and wild deer drop navels across the field and on the wood, but they lose a smell and musk that stale happens“.

Such cruel way of receiving musk was used by

up to 1979. Now the Convention on international trade in endangered species of fauna and flora (CITES) protects kabarg as a rare and endangered species of animals. Besides, a musk deer are brought in the International Red List and the Red List of Russia. Now trade of kabarg is limited. However for the perfumery industry the way out was found of this situation quickly enough. There is an alternative to animal musk - musk of a phytogenesis and synthetic.

more humane way of receiving musk - from plants Exists. Musk contains Anjelica`s root, ambretta seeds, a root pharmaceutical dyagilya, seeds of a hibiscus, part of a plant of a galbanum and some other plants. Easier way of receiving musk - synthetic. A smell of musk many synthetic substances of various structure, including some macrocyclic lactones and oxalactones, nitro - musks (musk - ketone, musk amber, musk - a xylol), some replaced tetragidronaftalina and indana possess (for example, fantolid, versalid, galaksolid). Some types of synthetic musks are forbidden to application from - for their toxicity. Besides, they drew attention of ecologists from - for bad abilities to biological decomposition.

Before using musk for creation of perfumery compositions, it is processed on special technology. During processing musk loses all quickly evaporating substances and gets more noble smell. In perfumery musk is used for fixing of aromas. It does smells more sensual and warm. Perfumers noticed that the perfume aroma depends on a musk origin: animal, vegetable or synthetic. If to enter synthetic musk instead of an animal which was used earlier into composition of perfume, then aroma of perfume to change. Earlier the preference was given to animal musk. Now musk of an animal origin - ingredient rare and expensive, it is applied to creation of expensive spirits by the famous perfumery brands.

Would be interesting to be learned in what spirits musk is used. From modern aromas it is possible to note White for Her from Emporio Armani, Glow from Jennyfer Lopez. In classical aromas musk meets much more more often: Forever Elizabeth from Elizabeth Arden, L “air du Temps from Nina Ricci and, of course, legendary spirits of Chanel № 5 from Chanel.