Reservoir in a garden - it is real. Part 2
What can be a reservoir in your garden; what it is more convenient to make of? And whether it is possible to make it independently?
the Film reservoir - the pool with a concrete bowl
Application of a reservoir as pool assumes existence of a rigid design which can be made only of concrete.by
At first in the dug ditch constructs a concrete bowl with ideally smooth walls not less than 20 cm thick and the metal gauze - a framework. Over a concrete bowl the first layer stack geotextiles which protect a film from sharp roots and stones, and then and a film.
the Ready plastic reservoir from polypropylene without concrete bowl
If you do not pursue originality, and the small sizes of your twig quite will suit you, then it is the best exit. The similar design is easy in installation, is rather strong and rather inexpensive. Now it is possible to find capacities of the most various form in sale, and not just standard rectangular or round. Your pond can become triangular, oval, ellipse and even curved as a boomerang. Material of which the bowl - polypropylene is made. It is strong and shock-resistant, on the chemical properties well is suitable for plants and fishes. However, color at those capacities which are on sale at us in Yekaterinburg. only black, but such artificial reservoir rather cheap will manage.
the Plastic reservoir - the pool from polypropylene by request
If you decided to combine with the concrete basis “two in one“ and to use a decorative reservoir for own bathings, that simple, however, and the most expensive decision in the monetary relation is an order of a polypropylene form for the pool at the company - producer. It will be rather just for you as it is possible to order a plastic form of any size and any configuration. In this case sheets of polypropylene just cook, however, on the corresponding equipment. Weld directly on the place. Before welding concrete ideally smooth basis of a pond has to be prepared. After a form svarivaniye you will need only to build a timbering (a role of an internal contour will be played by a polypropylene bowl) on an external contour of a bowl of a pond and to fill in this bowl with concrete. In this case there are two pluses:does not need to do to
- an internal timbering (and it is quite difficult since usually contours of a pond want to be made some original form);
- the form of a pond and the sizes can be any.
However such construction, perhaps, will cost more, than all your other site with the house, a bath, landings and other constructions. Let`s tell, for a construction of a pond of 2,45 in size × 2 × 1,5 m you should lay out over 4 thousand euros.
the Concrete reservoir - the pool with a special waterproofing covering giperdesmoGiperdesmo`s
represents unicomponent liquid material on the basis of polyurethane which after polymerization forms the strong, chemically resistant covering used for a waterproofing. It is recommended for protection of concrete, metal, wooden surfaces, a natural stone, a brick and giving of resistance to attrition, a waterproofing and chemical firmness to them. Among other this material is used for a waterproofing of pools and tanks with food and drinking water. This cheapest decision in case of a construction pass - the pool in the form of a pond: it is twice cheaper than a film reservoir with a concrete bowl and is four times cheaper than the polypropylene pool with a concrete bowl. Besides, the covering very simply is put, and no additional labor for this purpose is required. In this case the same concrete bowl, as for the film pool is created, but then it becomes covered not by geotextiles and a film, and in turn several special structures. There was this technology in the Russian market quite recently, and she is so far poorly known. At desire after a reservoir covering waterproofing structures it is possible to decorate in addition walls and the basis of a pond relief or flat stones or a tile. For these purposes use natural stones: shungit, black slate, pink sandstone, etc. Reservoir cost in this case will significantly increase.Construction of a concrete bowl for film and concrete reservoirs In the beginning the bottom and walls of a ditch fill in
13 - a centimetric layer of concrete mix. Press the metal gauze into even damp walls. When the first layer hardens (in 5 - 7 days), spread the second. That concrete hardened, but did not dry up that can lead subsequently to formation of cracks, its several days keep in a damp state, having covered with a polyethylene film or a damp sacking. In order to avoid slipping of material from walls, slopes of a reservoir arrange at an angle 40 - 45 °. For concreting of abrupt coast construct a wooden timbering. In it concrete is filled in still before the bottom manages to stiffen. Clean a timbering when concrete completely hardens.
Construction of a film reservoir
If you decided to construct a pond by means of a film, then it is necessary to stock up with the special, thick film for reservoirs impregnated with a certain structure or too special thinner flexible film for the same purpose. It costs expensive, but you are not limited in the choice of a form of a pond. In the beginning note a hose a pond form on your site and begin to dig for it a hole. Performing all operations in the direction outside inside, create a sediment zone (0 - 10 cm), then a shallow zone (20 - 40 cm) and, at last, a deep-water zone (60 - 150 cm) in the beginning. Biases between separate zones should not exceed 30 ° otherwise the earth can collapse or baskets with special plants, for example, water lilies will slip. Then it is necessary to level all surfaces and to clear a hole of stones and roots of plants. The internal surface of a bowl of a pond is stamped. The basis is filled up 10 - a centimetric layer of sand. Then the special canvas - geotextiles for ponds under a film keeps within. It effectively protects the waterproofing membrane from mechanical damages and possesses high resistance to root germination. Applying this material, you significantly prolong service life of a film reservoir. Then lay a measured tape (roulette) through the hole dug by you. Measure the biggest distance on length between edges of a hole, considering at the same time that the measured tape - as and a film - has to adjoin later to the earth densely. Add still 30 cm to the measured length and width of a film. Thanks to it when laying you will have enough film for fastening of edges, for example, stones or plates. > by
As it is correct to p to choose a film?
the Right choice of thickness of a film depends on the pond sizes.Ponds with an area less than 10 m 2 can be made by
- of a film 0,5 mm thick. Ponds of the bigger area with depth to 150 cm is recommended to make
- of a film not less than 1 mm thick.
- For ponds with depth over 150 cm we recommend to use a film 1,5 mm thick.
Considering that the film costs expensive, it is worth counting carefully its necessary quantity that superfluous not to overpay. How many it is necessary films, it is possible to count on formulas:
- length + the doubled depth + 60 cm = cloth length;
- width + the doubled depth + 60 cm = cloth width.
For example, for a garden pond 5 m long and 4 m wide, having the maximum depth of 1,5 m, to you will need a pond film of 8,60 in size × 7,60 m. At the same time does not play any role under what corner coast go down or what depth various zones of gardening have. Only the deepest place of a pond is considered. Over the laid-out geotextiles stack a film, without pressing it inside. Edges of a film press down stones. After that gradually fill a pond with water. As water level rises, on one clean stones, without preventing a film to fall and nestle gradually on boards and a bottom of a hole, folds at the same time as much as possible level. Edges of a reservoir give all the best a natural stone, a tile, a brick etc. so that they hung over water approximately on 5 cm. Stones have to be fastened by cement mortar. Intervals between stones are filled with a stone crumb completely to close edges of a film. Then the reservoir and its coast are decorated by plants.
Installation of a ready plastic reservoir from polypropylene
the Reservoir turns over upside down, is established to the place of digging in and is outlined on the earth on an external and internal contour; the hole digs on outlines and the size of a form, depth of a hole has to be more than depth of a form only on 5 cm
After a vykopka of a ditch be convinced that its bottom is horizontal, stamp the soil at the bottom and fill on the soil sand a layer about 3 cm. It is not necessary to lay a film on a hole bottom at all - she will not allow to go to the soil to water from an atmospheric precipitation and watering, and as a result water will accumulate under a form, and after its freezing the formed ice will force out a form in the winter.
Lower a form in a hole, press it into sand and be convinced of horizontal installation (correct as necessary) and prop up a form wooden plates from all directions.
Start up in a form water from a hose and at the same time fill space between a form and a ditch the earth (or sand), having cleaned wooden props after filling of emptiness.
Disguise edges of a form stones or pave a tile (solution should not get to pond water), having laid them it is horizontal with small lag over water.
to Merge water for the winter from a rigid form or not - this issue is resolved depending on quality of a form (from usual plastic - less steady against differences of temperatures and pressure, from polypropylene - more practical) and its depths (not less than 60 cm). If there is opportunity, it is better not to risk and remove for the winter almost all water from a pond, having left a small amount it together with insects, snails and buds of floating plants; on a bottom of a form it is necessary to put several thick sticks (either a board, or pieces of polyfoam) and to fill up a bottom with a thick layer of leaves, and from above on a form to put boards and to pull a film.the Covering of a concrete reservoir waterproofing material giperdesmo
Before drawing a covering the surface of the cement bases has to be carefully cleared by
of dust, dirt and garbage and has to be dry. the Covering giperdesmo is put to
in several layers.the First coat layer in the form of a colourless giperdesmo - D needs to apply
on the basis by means of a spray, a brush or the roller, the best results are yielded by use of the korotkoshersty velors roller. An expense when drawing the first layer: 150 - 250 g/m 2 - for the absorbing surfaces in the form of concrete.
In case the first layer was absorbed without the rest, then after its hardening it is necessary to put once again colourless giperdesmo - D.the Color or colourless second layer can be put to
in usual conditions (+20 ° C) in 2,5 - 3,5 hours, but not later, than in five hours after drawing the first. A mastic consumption when drawing the second layer: 80 - 150 g/m 2 (the excess expense can lead to formation of microbubbles in a covering, especially during the work in damp conditions). > Material it is better for p to put
in several thin layers. The next layer can be put right after stickiness of the previous layer, but no more than in seven hours disappears. The best result on wear resistance of a covering is achieved at the minimum breaks between drawing layers.
At a temperature of +20 ° About a surface it is possible to operate in 48 hours (at low temperatures time of hardening increases).