Rus Articles Journal

“Salekhard - the polar city...“

the Breeze creep rustling,
small sweeps Small pieces of ice...
Salekhard like the guard
Rose at northern gate

Here hidden border -
As if an entrance to the Polar Circle.
How many from the North it is knocked On this city of wild blizzards!

Leonid Laptsuy,
the Nenets poet

the Actual information

- Salekhard - the capital of Yamalo - the Nenets Autonomous Area, the only city on the Polar circle.

- the Population - about 39000 people.

- Distance to Moscow - 2436 kilometers.

- Journey in public transport - 13 rubles, in a share taxi - 17 rubles.

my love to Salekhard is weaved by

from flickering snowflakes, flashes of the polar lights, aroma of the tundra, turned sour - sweet with an easy slightly bitter taste of taste of cowberry, the Ural Mountains covered with clouds, boundless open spaces, the highest snowdrifts, lilovo - a pink carpet Ivan - tea. Hardly in a window the city panorama is shown, I feel that I arrived home though already whole ten years I live very much - very far from here.

Salekhard can be a miscellaneous: the accurate toy city with multi-colored houses in the central part, ill-matched and uncomfortable on suburbs, in almost deserted and silent summer, noisy, raging in the early fall. It is the best of all to come here at the very end of August - the beginning of September. Fall in Salekhard unusual - bright, motley, fragrant. To see it in all beauty, it is necessary to visit the tundra and on the bank of Ob.

Fall in the tundra

Vast, boundless space and low - the low sky, as if clung to the earth. It seems that else slightly - slightly - and it will be possible to reach clouds. Lead gloss of the river with bluish otliva and the huge stones doing the coast to almost impassable. Strict, majestic and silent beauty. As if incarnate metaphor of pride and free loneliness.

But also other places - the joyful and cheerful polar wood with dwarfish birches, touching young fir-trees, bushes and berries are. In the fall (more precisely, of course, to the forest-tundra) reigns in the wood violent to a raznotsvetya. The nature takes a revenge for a strict palette of snow days which on average about 200 in a year. Zolotisto - yellow, crimson, it is bright - orange, is gentle - green, purple, snow-white, nebesno - blue, is dark - green, is juicy - red shades are combined with each other with unreal harmony.

you go on the elastic earth (the district very marshy), you inhale unusually pure, it is crystal - transparent air, you break saturated - red cowberry, it is black - violet bilberry, is bluish - lilac blueberry, and sometimes and berries of a wild dogrose. It especially tasty after the first frost - soft, turned sour - sweet, oranzhevo - red.

A still can gather mushrooms: hard birch mushrooms, noble cepe, multi-colored russulas. Or just to sit on the soft hummocks warmed by the sun and to enjoy the ringing silence.

Useful tips

- Surely take

with yourself means from insects and you will choose most closed clothes - in the tundra mosquitoes and midges rage. Though in their early autumn it is much less, than in the summer.

- it is better for p to choose Footwear waterproof - the marshland.

- the Favourite vacation spot of residents of Salekhard - Karchagi uniting Ob with the sandy coast and the picturesque wood. Get there by cars, it is possible by a taxi.

- Indigenous people of the North (Nenets, the Khanty) very much make thrifty use of the tundra, of the earth. Even the traditional footwear is made not to wound the soil. You remember - we in the tundra guests and have to behave respectfully.

Monuments of Salekhard

Over the past few years Salekhard very much changed, especially the downtown. It is built up with brand new multi-colored multi-storey buildings with crimson, blue roofs, is bright - yellow, blue, green walls, turrets. Juicy colors recover a snow-white winter palette of the city, introduce to it heat.

A in Salekhard many interesting monuments appeared. Some of them apply for uniqueness. As, for example, Bridge “Torch“ through the river to Shaytank. It is necessary to notice that it causes a mixed feeling in locals - the rivulet - that absolutely small, modest, and the bridge massive, solid - the real architectural object. Despite this incongruity, it became one of hallmarks of the city.

the bridge built in the form of a huge torch has

no analogs in the world. Its project was even awarded the bronze diploma at the international festival “Architecture - 2005“ and applies for the post in the Guinness Book of Records. A bridge highlight - the three-storyed restaurant located over it established on inclined poles. It also gives to the bridge similarity to the lit gas torch. It is possible to reach there on two viewing elevators. The bearing bridge footings are strongly inclined towards the river why it seems as if the restaurant hangs on water.

Nearby, on the embankment of the small river, is costed by a monument to a reindeer from an aluminum alloy. Height it about 6 meters, and weighs on average 2 tons. The deer for natives of Far North is both food, and clothes, and transport, and the dwelling, and work, and the main character of local legends. Therefore on a pedestal lines from the poem of the Nenets poet and the writer Leonid Laptsuya are traced:“ In fairy tales of ancient Yamal, in songs of new generations, everywhere the word grateful people celebrate deer“. At the time of my childhood (the middle 90 - x) it was still possible to meet the sledge harnessed by deer on the central streets. And it not on the occasion of some holiday, and just the Nenets or the Khanty arrived on affairs to Salekhard.

One more monument to a northern animal - a ten-meter sculpture of a mammoth. The matter is that near the local Yuribey River in 1998 the skeleton of a four-months baby mammoth of Masha which is stored in St. Petersburg in the Zoological museum now was found. And in Salekhard there was an exact copy of Masha made in Japan. By the way, in May, 2007 the reindeer breeder Yury Hudi found on a bend of the Yuribey River of surprisingly well remained baby mammoth with a trunk, eyes and the remains of wool on a body. Established that the baby mammoth died more than 10 thousand years ago. This find became loud archaeological sensation.

One of the best-known city monuments - a stele “the 66th parallel“ (other name - “A polar circle“). It symbolizes geographical uniqueness of Salekhard - the only thing on the City land located on the Polar circle which divides Salekhard into two parts. The stele represents two high pyramids divided on the center by a semicircle. In the evening illumination outside and inside, representing the polar lights joins. About a monument for tourists carry out ritual of crossing of the Polar circle after which participants are handed diplomas.

One more monument, unique, is devoted to romantics 70 - x which went to the North “behind fogs and behind a taiga smell“. It is made in the form of a derrick above which the gas torch trembles.

About more ancient story of the city is told by the architectural complex “Obdorsky Jail“ (Obdorsk - the former name of Salekhard) reproducing shape of an outpost of the Russian state in the Obdorsky region in the 17th century. It was open a few years ago on the historical place at confluence of Poluy and Ob.“ The Obdorsky jail“ is considered also a monument of the Russian wooden architecture. Small fortress - quite cozy and if it is possible so to speak, a benevolent construction. She reminds of old Salekhard with nice low wooden houses and a carved sun blind.

the Surrealistic tundra

Present to

: the tundra, silence, emptiness, boundless space to the horizon... And suddenly you notice the rusted pieces of a barbed wire and the bent rails leading nowhere. It seems that you are included in some fantastic movie. From where rails and fragments of engines in the deserted, marshy tundra?!

All this

- remains, the so-called “dead road“, incomplete construction of the railroad Salekhard - Igarka. The road was constructed by prisoners in 1940 - 1950 - x years.

Construction of the railroad along Arctic Circle is considered as one of the most grandiose projects of GULAG now. The abandoned railroad extends a narrow snake through boundless bogs West - the Siberian lowland, through the undersized polar woods and the tundra on hundreds of kilometers. The Bezlyudnost of these places promoted that “the dead road“ and everything that was once connected with it, remained in almost untouched look.

Long-term work of builders in inhuman conditions turned out

vain - building and remained incomplete. However, in strategic documents of development of transport of Russia the project of railway communication of the North of the Tyumen region and Igarka is not erased from old cards yet.

Many compare “the dead road“ to “zone“ from Tarkovsky`s movie “Stalker“. It also possesses special attractiveness, mystery and natural willfulness.

Local color

Yamal since ancient times were inhabited by the Khanty, Nenets, Selkups, the Komi - the northern people which lead a nomadic life also today and keep many traditions of the past. It is possible to learn about their features, having visited muzeyno - exhibition complex of I. S. Shemanovsky.

But it is much more interesting to p to visit the museum under the open sky - prirodno - an ethnographic complex. It is in Gornoknyazevsk, in 12 kilometers from Salekhard (15 - 20 minutes of a driving).


At an entrance on the territory of the museum the birch grows, and the larch is slightly farther. The first tree is sacred for the people of the Komi and the Khanty, and the second will be read by Nenets. Both trees dazzle with multi-colored ribbons, kerchiefs - on local beliefs, everyone who will leave a ribbon and a small souvenir can ask for God blessing for some kind of.

Coming here as if you get to a settlement from the real chum - dwellings of the nomadic people of Yamal. It is possible to come inside, to look at internally device plague, to sit on cervine skins, to touch various utensils. It is possible even to try on a yagushka (a women`s fur coat) or to throw with a magnificent skin of a polar wolf shoulders, in detail to consider a wonderful women bag. These bags are simply magnificent - from smooth brilliant cervine fur, decorated with bright Nenets ornaments, trimmed with a fluffy white fox.

in the territory of a complex to contain in the small king deer. They got used to tourists long ago, allow to stroke themselves and, according to the staff of the museum, “became avka“, i.e. manual deer. Here it is possible to sit on sledge (sledge to which put deer), to take hunting onions in hands.

the Museum offers

the extensive program: thematic excursions, fishing, driving on cervine teams and snowmobiles, participation in ceremonial holidays, local delicacies. And it is possible to look at an exhibition of ice sculptures in the winter.

Northern delicacies and souvenirs

Far North is famous for the incredibly tasty and useful white fish - muksuny and a nelma. It is good in any kind: in fish pie, an ear, fried, fresh-salted and smoked. A special delicacy - a stroganina. From the frozen fresh fish a sharp knife cut off (“plane“) the thinnest pieces which are eaten right there with salt and pepper, and it is possible also with some sauce. Gentle slices as if melt in the mouth.

One more way of preparation of fish - “block“. Fresh ungutted fish is placed in a barrel with salt under a press, maintained, and then eat, previously having soaked several hours in water.

In Salekhard can try also venison - meat dietary, in Europe very expensive. In local shops both fresh meat, and cervine canned food is on sale.

northern berries are Very tasty

: do fragrant jam of beautiful amber color of cloudberries, from cowberry and a cranberry the excellent fruit drink turns out. Still there is a bilberry, blueberry and wild blackcurrant.

can buy

From souvenirs in Salekhard the books which are (perfectly issued) about edge stories, very beautiful photo albums and cards with city views, the nature. And also products of traditional crafts - figures from a bone, the knickknacks from cervine fur decorated with beads and expressive ornaments. More practical investment of capital - to buy in the local market of a felt cloak. These are incredibly warm boots from cervine fur embroidered by ornaments (or without them).

But should tell

that all souvenirs in Salekhard very much and very expensive. For example, the photo album with types of the nature costs, on average, 2 - 3 thousand, and felt cloaks - 6 - 7 thousand.

is Told who will fall in love with the North, will never stop loving it. It awakens imagination, internally clears, tempers, attracts and dreams...