Rus Articles Journal

Life on


the Russian Baltic. Curonian Spit. Sea. Guest house “Leisure“

6. 06. 2009 - 13. 06. 2009

Additional photographic materials here

of Feeling

Water receded, being absorbed in sand and leaving the thinnest line of drawing - an edge of the running wave. The following wave bore in itself grains of sand too, and in turn drew a twisting pattern. The desert beach covered with this fancy spider line extended on kilometers. Sometimes among grains of sand sun droplets - amber came across. It is easy, its splashes remain on the edge of the running wave and give intelligence illusion to walks along the sea. “Why you go here?“ - “I collect amber...“

Sand here everywhere. He was carried by wind, and it was especially felt by skin when the sun looked out, and it was possible to sunbathe. It was carried by gulf waters - and every morning, coming to the coast, I saw absolutely other relief of a bottom, shallows and the washed-up mysterious depths washed in a night where yesterday there was an equal wavy bottom. Sand moved dunes, and they slowly crept to the gulf and stepped on the wood. Sand ate cages a pletenok and heaps of brushwood by which it was tried to be stopped, detained, fixed … Sand was everywhere. We daily shook out it from a slipper, from pockets, from a camera cover, from a package of cookies and even from a telescope case. Sand was everywhere because all Braid is it. And she lives, she moves, changes, she is not subject to nobody.

Sand on the sea coast and gulf sand. Dune sand. The braid all is made of it, but for some reason it is different. Sand at the sea scrunches:“ Vzhik - vzhiiik - vzhiiiiik“. Dense sand of an edge of the gulf can unexpectedly be distributed, and already all slipper got wet - quicksands … Dune sand - nobody untouched, brought down by wind as a crust on snowdrifts in the winter, places it can sustain weight not only the fox creeping to habitats of seagulls but also the person, and does not leave marks on the skin. And its crust prominatsya by places, and the bare foot plunges into soft smallest sand of a dune - it was brought on its top by wind. Sand in the wood - warm also smells of pitch. On sand violets and a violet Martian grass grow. And the wood grows. The equal pinery along the road with almost lawn grass under trees pitted by boars full of birds and flowers … The live wood at the gulf and the broken, twirled, creeping fairy “drunk“ forest with “women - yaga“ and with blindages of last war on tops of green dunes.

Today the sun does not shine

, and not to find amber splashes among pebble scatterings. Wind. The sea storms. Why you go here?. The measured roar of the sea bewitches and remains with you forever. You go afar, without thinking of anything. Under legs sings sand. Nearby the sea - it not so similar to the emerald southern seas, it is gray - blue, steklyanisty, it is boundless, it is in itself. Boundless scope around. Boundless tranquility. And only the wave beats, and with rustling slides on sand. Why you go here?.

Once I read

at Polyakov as the main character who is saying goodbye in plot artful designs to life suddenly saw a tangerine tree to be given up beginners by fruits: “… And at it the strange thought suddenly flashed: if here all - to kill him, then, at least, before death he managed to look at these zelenokozhy cubs, and it not so is not enough...“ .

When I see something very good, I always remember this phrase. It now mine. Sea. Waves. Sand. Seagulls. I will keep it forever.

our holiday was short-term

of Entertainment, and from entertainments we preferred.

of Walk and sitting / lying at water (at gulf water, by the sea). When around anybody. When only this boundless scope. And you on the edge. And splash of a wave. And sand rustle. Both feeling of freedom, and feeling of fine...

Well and.... I bathed, of course! But it was cool.

is warmer than

In the gulf, there quickly gets warm. From the sea wind blows more often, and it is colder.

Actually weather turned out

quite comfortable, despite the sad forecast. The sun when it shone, heated very strongly. The sun on the Spit, by the way, always very active, despite remoteness from tropic latitudes because is repeatedly reflected from water, perhaps … Protective cream will not prevent. Water got warm already enough that it was possible to plunge into a heat. And again to go along water or to roll, looking afar and to feel a unification with this huge turning mass of water.


In July, is closer to August, water will get warm, and in warm waves with sandy coast it will be possible to lap for days on end. And on the other hand - well what to become wet - that long? Not Egypt, there are no corals! It is possible to plunge already now and that long you will not swim for a while, so it is compensated by a bezlyudnost. Well, it in my opinion.

of Walk up and down Braids.

the Braid differs in variety of natural zones, and it is exciting to walk on it. Within pedestrian availability for one sortie it is possible to walk on the wood (on several absolutely different woods!) on a bog, on the desert, on the mountains, on the coast of the lake, the gulf and the sea. Zones replace each other unexpectedly and sharply. Here you on the fringe of the forest, collect wild strawberry, creep on it, having bent down, and suddenly lift up the head - and before you at arm`s length up meters on 50 under an abrupt inclination the wall of clean white sand leaves - it approaches the wood a sandy dune. There is a mountain covered with a zasukhostoyky lilac prickle - such on Mars absolutely without water grow - suddenly sharply breaks in a bog - the real bog, with hummocks, with the bog, impassable, pitted by boars, inhabited by marsh birds and frogs. Here the flock of whitebaits hides from the hot sun in a pine shadow.

From time to time we got to fighters.

the Braid - a border zone. And though Lithuania not here to you the abroad, but border is border. On the bus-stop we read appeals to locals to report about the “strange“ people who are appearing in the district and interested in border. We, with the curiosity and a new toy of the husband - GPS - ohms - were just such. Every time when it with an air of detachment began to tie on satellites to the card next “point“ - gate of military unit or a tower of communication - I expected emergence of the armed group of soldiers with all that it implies … Did not appear. Probably, got used to it.

the mode of stay of military on it was considerably strengthened and ordered by

Since our last visit on the Spit. Military unit in the settlement where we during the opening of the Braid in 2003 to year came, without having noticed that and left it, without having caused to anybody the slightest concern, it is enclosed with a reliable small fence, on check point gate with gallant matrosika in a dress now. Across the territory, having lifted up a tail, the serious security sheep-dog, and a ladder who climbs down a mountain on the territory of part joyfully jumps, though remained as was, but the landing is decorated with the cheerful plate about property of the Ministry of Defence and about a possibility of a use of weapons.

the Same plates decorate with

protection ruins on the mountain where near a radar towers of mobile communication settled down now. Honestly, what sense to restore a fence when, having read such threats, nobody inside and so is put?! Whether here only all are able to read...

From time to time among all these remains of former luxury - that on the mountain that on the beach - sharply modern vosokotekhnologichny sensor blinking a spark on passing by gapers suddenly comes across. So that`s that! In total under control.

It was amusing to p to observe border in a telescope. We sit on the seashore. Ahead of six kilometers of the desert sandy beach. Farther a frontier tower, there ashore two frontier guards with a dog sometimes stroll. And further away... Umbrellas - umbrellas - umbrellas - umbrellas... Lithuania. Here I will not understand - so closely to them, perhaps? The continuous “civilized“ beach is direct on a neutral strip at them. Then on Vikimapiya`s card we read that it is the nudist beach of Nida (in a pipe not to sort …). In total - as it is good that we have a big country! It is possible to find places where you go and you do not step on the neighbor.

Closely the military subject is adjoined also by remains of the German coastal battery on the mountain Nut (over the settlement Sea). The bunker turned towards the gulf, and 4 bases of cannon towers on a sea slope. Very sound structures. And the view from towers opens magnificent!

Wild beasts.

was many

of Animals and different.

the Main wild beasts were found directly in an ozerka near the gate of “Leisure“ coming to the coast of the gulf. We were on friendly terms with it, having passed through osier-bed bushes on a microscopic plyazhik.

At base gate, on a high column directly behind shop there lived a stork. It was trampled down on a nest, showered the head back and vyshchelkivat trills a beak. From time to time it arrived on a roof of some lodge, promising living addition of family. Flew on the lake for fish. And sometimes at all fell on a plyazhika two steps away from us and went about the own business.

the family of swans lived In the lake. Couple of magnificent enormous white birds grew up three lebedit - still absolutely “disgusting“, fine, fluffy, instead of the feathers covered with gray “hair“, dexterously floating in water and clumsily hobbling on the beach. Lebedikh ate from a hand, however, at the same time awfully terribly hissed and toporshchit wings, trying to seem more and more terribly. In case suddenly, at the moment when it is enough bread from a palm, I will decide to grasp it by a neck, showed the awfully terrible habit. Then we read that it hissed not for nothing but because the swan - shipun“ is called “. The head of family took bread from a hand seldom, and enough noticeably took at the same time fingers. Lebedit on distance of an outstretched arm did not admit, carrying out difficult voyenno - sea maneuvers and restricting weight - they dragged crumbs from water. Swans do not eat dry bread - have to take, soak it in water and will only eat then. Cubs floated for mother as attached. It walked them on the lake, and sometimes removed to walk on sand and even to swim for a while on a high water - to the gulf. We worried - as a lebedyata will return back? Whether will be tired? Whether will offend them who? Whether will carry away waves?. The head of family exercised the general supervision and control. Also came on investigation at our emergence - whether brought bread? And when considered that someone can attempt upon his wards (well, or just to frighten), suddenly it was terribly inflated and hissed, it became a nightmare what to keep cool and to start back was absolutely difficult. Somehow time observed the amusing picture - of lebedit one whether was tired, whether froze, but when all family, having gorged on, went from the coast, he caught a beak a mother`s wing, contrived and … scrambled it on a back. And went further, sitting between wings. Somehow family, having a rest with us in the neighbourhood, suddenly started, synchronously placed wings more widely to seem bolsh and uzhsny. We udvilis - from what it? And here saw flying by on shaving couple of foreign swans. Birds went an equal system - as attack planes, and ours - protected the territory! And as the swan goes for take-off …. It something. Running start on a water mirror - that your plane. I … Ceased to want to fly up, floated further. And if flies up, then wings with whistle dissect air - is heard from a distance. Even it is not believed that they can fly on huge distances, in general, and that already in few months these greyish clumsy animals - lebedenysh so will be able to fly. Huge bird swan, strong, beautiful!

in the lake there lived some muskrats or still who - certain water rats. These were amusing! Constantly something was chewed, pulling out some backs from a bottom. Dived very technically, being brief a tail up with gurgle and ripples in the water. In water, happened, fought, also fir-trees - fir-trees - fir-trees - fir-trees - fir-trees were on friendly terms. Sometimes were chosen and on a water edge - to sit and clean - to brush a skin. Bread did not take. The attention to us was not paid and when it is casual, having come up, noticed nearby, jumped aside.

Grey herons did not trust

to people too. And, having seen the heron effigy decorating a wall in the dining room we understood why! In dunes the fox sent seagulls, her traces were similar to traces of a small doggie, but a tail - as soon as we saw it directly - dispelled all doubts. Magnificent tail, lisiny. Down the street the settlement the hedgehog walked. On the coast. Everywhere huge snails, as met lodges on a back, and homeless. From base with us various cats walked. Traces of boars met everywhere. Local told that only recently wild pigs got stuck to steal potato from beds, and that in May it was possible to stay all day in the house, being afraid to lean out outside when such mumps came to regale to you.


or “to rummage in a sand“. Huge volumes of sand of the Braid leave nobody indifferent. The system of the lakes which are in close proximity to the gulf offers unique opportunities for construction of dams, channels and other hydraulic engineering constructions. Somehow time towards evening the husband drilled with long predatory look thrown on a desert plyazhik by crowd of pioneers (in the afternoon here some landing of the school students who came by the bus from “continent“ unexpectedly fell down) the broken shovel - and it was the beginning of hobby … Daily in the evening and in the morning it dug, filled, strengthened and condensed the constructions which decayed in a day. Water that flew down from the lake to the gulf. That it was poured from the gulf to the lake. That lake became the independent object which is not connected with other water open spaces. And the truth - there is that poryt!

of Evening at a fireplace. Our collecting in holiday was prompt and was defined by anything, but only not a weather forecast. The forecast, it is necessary to notice, was preotvratitelny … And though with weather we are usually lucky, all of us - estimated and what we will be engaged in if pessimism of weather forecasters comes true, and took number with a fireplace. As a result weather appeared different and to sit at a fireplace was a time very pleasantly. And that is important, the fireplace in our number was remarkable. It did not smoke, heated, regularly pulled, it was faced by a convenient sofa and a little table. Well to read in the evening the electrobook before fire or just to drink beer with smoked fish … Yes! Fish smoked was there. Tasty … Everyone. Sea and fresh-water. Bream, Baltic herring, capelin, eel, oil, salmon, perch … In the bar on our base and in a special bench near its gate. Fish is caught there both at once smoked, and at once sell, and eat too at once. Therefore it not strongly salty - not for storage smoked, and prepared so...

of Coordinate and appearance. Equipment of a trip

District map.

the Guest house “Leisure“ in Sea - in the most distant settlement of the Braid. The website according to the reference. They did not respond me to the letter to the address on the website, and I called by telephone. Also reached by that phone that on the website (79114591243, +7(40150)4 - 13 - 96, +7(40150)4 - 13 - 97). But absolutely not from the first! But phoned.

Then asked

them - if you do not respond to letters why you gave a mail on the website? People write and consider that you died here for a long time... Well, they do not understand anything about e-mail, they wrote it in vain. And by phone we reserved the room, did not pay in advance since we gathered promptly and called for couple of days to a trip, well and not a season so far, to the people there was very little. Arrived - the room waited for us.

of the Price there so far. We took number with a fireplace for 2 300 rub a day for number (the 2nd lodge, room 7, the second floor, number was pleasant to us). The breakfast (“buffet“ - at me in photos is) is included - quite to itself a breakfast, till a dinner it is possible to hold on on it. Number without fireplace is cheaper - costs 1 800 rubles.

at them price increase - begins

Since July 1 “a high season“.

If wants more economically, then it is possible to rent apartment in the settlement (it absolutely small). The shop assistant of local shop gave me the phone, told: “The apartment is a one-room, double bed there, on 700 rub from the person I want to hand over“. I think that it is possible to bargain - she did not hand over earlier, does not know yet how affairs will go. I did not see that apartment. Hozyaykand made good impression - cheerful such adequate aunt.

We arrived by plane. To go to the Spit through Zelenogradsk - from the airport there nothing goes (unless by bus to Kaliningrad, and from there to Zelenogradsk and on the Spit, but it is a big hook). We took a taxi. At spit coming undertakes (well, they do not take, of course, from taxi drivers, but those pretend that they pay) ecological collecting - 250 rub from the car entrance (give a talonchik on which during the day the car can drive again if it for some reason needed to drive on “continent“) and on 30 rub from the person. We were together, from us the driver took 300 rub and descended with them to the box - type, paid.

Sea we chose by

Following the results of studying of ways of achievement of the settlement the Kaliningrad taxi pool, the website according to the reference. They well answer a mail, call back by phones, all decently.

“There“ they had a firm rate - 1000 rub plus ecocollecting. That is, delivery cost us 1 300 rub. The driver told that the main road is repaired therefore he goes to a detour, but since a dachshund firm, the detour was unprofitable to it, and he went round only couple of kilometers. And here “back“ () they go to the airport already on the counter. And, though you also leave, but ecocollecting, type, all the same it is necessary to pay for the car - it for you drove...

I the arrived driver went and went, both went and went. Also went round as a result on 25 excess kilometers though I told it at once that from the airport we were carried a short detour. There were already 1400 rub. Moreover the 300th driver wanted to receive for ecocollecting. But on the road he told us that he came to the Bay already today - brought people in Forest. And ecocollecting undertakes (even if undertakes!) from the car once a day also costs 250 rub. Well, something seemed to me that the driver grew insolent, and I offered either excess 25 km, or ecocollecting - one to choose something. Drove, however, did not begin to argue, heavy sighed, but agreed. As a result delivery cost 1400 rub

Actually, “Leisure“ offers the delivery to the airport. It costs 1500 rub. I think (it is not sure, did not specify, but from settlement “local“ cars ecocollecting is not taken) that it is not necessary to pay extra ecocollecting.

Probably, it is the most successful to go “there“ on the Kaliningrad taxi pool, and “back“ delivery of the guest house (at least, not to worry whether will arrive, and that our taxi driver also was late a little).

If wants more economically, then I would advise a dachshund (besides, in advance ordered!) to reach from the airport to Zelenogradsk (bus station). And from there buses (No. 593 and No. 596) go to Sea practically each hour. Then ecocollecting should not be paid. And buses empty, it is quite convenient, pleasant and beautiful to go to them.

the Plane to Kaliningrad - quite inexpensive and very convenient transport. Purchase of the ticket for Anywayanyday took 15 minutes (the ticket electronic, payment by the card). The cheapest ticket which to me met cost 3086 rub (“Aeroflot“, the return ticket, including fuel and airport collecting). We slightly tightened registration of holiday and departed more expensive to Kaliningradavia where that for 5 thousand the return ticket. As a result of a taxi on this trip (to Moscow and on the place) cost to us dearer the plane). There are no complaints to flight. Registration began in 2 hours (since flight internal). The international passport and all permissions are not necessary. Passport control is not carried out. The crew promptly distributed candies, gave to drink juice and fed passengers - already and it is time to sit down, in a window the thin strip of the Braid seemed.