Rus Articles Journal

As we rode across Yenisei. Part 2


on June 16, 2009. Perfectly slept, in Igarka did not leave, looked only at disembarkation on the ship boat in Kureyke. The started and poor village, though picturesque. Katya and Oleg got acquainted to the girl Sveta, 12 years yesterday. And now rush with it on decks, playing at hide-and-seek, a blind-man`s-buff and cards. And all this is far from us. Happiness.

Turukhansk. There is no landing-stage, but there is a ferry pushed by a small ship. Passengers with things came on the ferry, and the ship dotolkat it to the middle of the river where on an anchor “V. Chkalov“ already waited. The captain on loud radio declared that there are no places in cabins, the ship can accept only the fourth class is without place, so-called “deck passengers“. But to the people piled all the same. Already all sat down, the ferry sailed, chose an anchor. We were brought up to restaurant to have supper, but here it became clear that one of new passengers fell on a ladder and broke a leg. To it imposed steaks, cut away novocaine, adjusted for it one back the ferry and on a stretcher transferred at first to the ferry, and then to the coast where the ambulance already waited for it. The aunt was in the delusioned, muttered some phones - probably, got also concussion … So she also floated on the ferry, asking to call:“ Eight … nine hundred …“ And further already it is also not heard.

we are late not for two hours Now, and for three. All benches and chairs from the street dragged in warm halls, and on them deck passengers doze. To Krasnoyarsk four more days, really and will go on benches? We close a cabin now even if we are in it. Suddenly somebody will break and will fall asleep directly on a rug between beds!

About the fallen woman eyewitnesses say that drunk from above fell down it. It - and it got nothing. We at last have supper. At restaurant of drunk it is full. That I noticed curious: before food, having ordered, they use foul language much, telling each other everyones production (hunting, fishing, the cabin of the wood) to history. And as will drink - so in the speech few mat at once, and that too it is surprising, the lexicon extends, and begin to use rare and foreign words perfectly! But in general the restaurant has quite civil appearance and the contingent. Simply even one - two drunk companies for all travel of impressions make weight! Though we float already on 200 km to the south of Arctic Circle, night still absolutely “white“. Now 12 nights, I in a cabin at a window write absolutely without additional lighting. From positive - today played chess ten times if it is no more. With pleasure and passion. Borya generally wins against Oleg and against me, but not always. I managed to beat Borya and Oleg on time. I finish records for today, I hope that tomorrow will bring more heat (and today on the deck it is still possible is only in a jacket, a cap, gloves … And that hour - another). Here photos of a decline, it is rising.

on June 17, 2009. Not too interesting day. We do not stick anywhere, loading / unloading by boats. Passed the beautiful village It is top - Imbatskoye, then the village of Chulkovo - in it is a lot of Kerzhakov - conservatives. They dashingly vygartsovyvat on motorka with 40 - 55 strong motors. Why such powerful motors - a riddle. Most likely, that it was possible to leave if something happens from the fish conservation boat. Kerzhaki young, cheerful. But bearded. And beards dense, curly - slovenly. From impressions - in It is top - Imbatsk it was necessary to approach closer the coast. So the captain allowed a current to twirl the ship a top, by 360 degrees, at the same time the ship moved downstream. Then turned on the engine and swam up besides to the place of the river, but is already much closer to the coast. It seemed to me that this maneuver was undertaken from huligansko - likhachesky motives. We just sat at the top restaurant and the review was excellent. As it is beautiful! The big white ship smoothly turns in the middle of the fast and wide river!

At restaurant we are already regular customers, to us reserve a table though we give a tip 20 - 50 rubles for four, however, always.

my Tickets according to traffic regulations move ahead vigorously. It is made 35, there were 5. On the deck the sun and now I will go for a walk.

Incredibly beautiful village of Bakhta, to it is 400 years old. In Bakhta there lives the writer Tarkovsky, those Tarkovsky` relative. I read with it interview in the local newspaper - the interesting and pleasant person.

on June 18, 2009. 05th mornings. Passed station Bor. We are late for three hours therefore the landing-stage was occupied with the rocket. It is a pity that it was not succeeded to descend - there is a wish to buy something. Jam or small fish. But, alas.

Returned to a cabin and something is not slept. The ship carefully floats in dense fog. It is good that the captain has a satellite map, and the provision of the ship on it is displayed through GPRS. Duplicates of its screen are output in many places by the ship for passengers. Cool at any time to see (as a red cross) the provision of our vessel on the card, with the indication of exact speed, a course and coordinates. Now, with such system, it is possible to float also in the well-known dense and frequent Yenisei fogs. There would be no such system - would stand now, giving the special beeps transferred as “I stand in fog“ …

Wanted to have a sleep to Vorogovo - it at 11 in the morning, but something was not fallen asleep. And thank God: Left on the deck. And there - dawn, the sun. The ship swims in in Osinovsky system (it is a heap of the high rocky islands overgrown with the wood, it narrowings and rapids on the river). Also smells - dampness, water, the wood and rolls baked by the ship … Eh, and could oversleep all this - it would be a pity.


, parking of 20 minutes. Bought sun-dried fish (it was edible only partially, only in the thinnest places), bread and two banks of raspberry jam. Hours at 8 in the evening, taking into account delay, we will be in Yartsevo. For now, two times having had breakfast, we will enjoy with Borky silence and rest. Katya with Oleg walk on the deck with the girl Sveta.

Played cards, washed in soul and photographed the pink sunset sky and vespers - night Yenisei. Already heat and part of day went with the window lowered against the stop.

on June 19, 2009. Woke up in 11, already swam up to Podtesovo. The large settlement in 500 kilometers to the north of Krasnoyarsk, is lower on the Yenisei Current. It is base of all Yenisei fleet - here build, repair the ships. Also in Podtesovo the ships and even landing-stages from all river because differently the spring ice drift will break everything in chips winter. Parking hour. The settlement was pleasant - is green, free, very quietly. Leaves of poplars and birches rustle. Bought sugar, tea, juice, cookies and apples. The prices any more not Dudinskiye, and quite Moskovsko - Krasnoyarsk. Dragged from “the mooring of high water“ us two tiny, but probably strong a buksirchik.

Yeniseisk. Looked the acting Spaso - the Preobrazhenskiy monastery, he is 350 years old - for Christian settlements on Yenisei are much. In the territory - it is silent - kindly, ogorodik, beds. There is no time, it stood.

the City by the light of day was pleasant to us - sound, it is a lot of beautiful platbands, bright flowers in the big windows which grew into the earth. Dense and it is dark - a green grass everywhere, good cars, there are a lot of people on streets of working-age - obviously not one old men in the city live. The parking was declared 40 minutes, but the militia aboard came and long found out something, as a result staid 1,5 hours. At last sailed. Now more than a day we will creep without stops upstream. The following stop - Krasnoyarsk. Floated some observatory and the radio telescope (by Borkiny words, I do not understand; honestly, it seems to me, as it too).

Have dinner tasty. Salad from cabbage, an ear from different types of fish, chicken cutlets with buckwheat and compote from dried fruits. Bread at restaurant always very fresh, tasty and besides the road (7 rub a piece) - from what we drew a conclusion that bake it by the ship, with rolls at the same time.

Yet did not reach merge (more true, divisions) Angara and Yenisei - stuck to the refueler, it filled in 50 000 liters of diesel fuel in our ship - it is almost full railway tank. Nearly an hour stood in the middle of the river, opposite to Lesosibirsk. In Lesosibirsk did not stick, and from water very tall “ricks“ from logs were visible. Height and extent about apartment houses.

Long sat on the deck, “shooters“ - connections of Angara and Yenisei waited. When waited, the captain put the well-known song on a public address system:“ Towards to a morning dawn / Across Angara, across Angara“. Beautifully and romantically.

Absolutely played cards at night, and then ran to watch the Kazachinsky threshold. Stood on a nose - froze, put on warmly and looked once again at the card, understood that the threshold will be by the morning. Sat with Oleg on the deck, on coast cheeped - some birds and animals whistled. At last it is dark, it is the first normal night after white northern nights. The ship is quietly stolen on water - absolutely others this river life. Went to sleep.

on June 20, 2009. Woke up and understood that the Kazachinsky threshold is passed, before it did not wait and did not stand. And, seemingly, now we are not late. And left - came true improbable, and the ship came to Krasnoyarsk even not hour ahead of time - namely at 7 in the evening. Usually is late and comes to 2 o`clock in the morning, and then till the morning it is allowed to sleep in a cabin, such rules. And in this case did not allow to remain till the morning even for money. We then bravely caught a taxi and lodged in Sever hotel - the 400th rub / bed, a toilet on the floor, a shower in the cellar. In number the TV. Only it showed nothing in the beginning, and Borka twisted some contacts, and it earned. Oleg with Katya directly - applauded it, and Katya called the wizard. We from Borkaya ran all over two central streets of Krasnoyarsk - Mira St. and Lenin St. Very informatively and beautifully.

on June 21, 2009. Woke up, for 800 rubles the lovely woman - the taxi driver (in combination mother having many children (the son of 15 years, the son of 11 years and the son 2 years) took us to the Yemelyanovo airport. Flight took place smoothly. Here we somewhere over Russia between Volga and Yenisei.

I already flew up to Sheremetyevo. The taxi quickly and without traffic jams took us to our precious Malakhovka. Remarkable travel is complete. To us it was interesting, cheerful and it is almost always comfortable. But as well at home!

can look with

still at a photo Here.