Rus Articles Journal

As we rode across Yenisei. Part 1

Structure: I am Ira (36 years), the husband Boris (44 g) son Oleg (15 years) and daughter Katya (10 years).

Route: Malakhovka - Moscow (Sheremetyevo) - Krasnoyarsk (Yemelyanovo) - Dudinka - Krasnoyarsk - Malakhovka. The part of a way is done by plane, and part by the ship.

10. 06. 09. Left in advance, in 21 zero - zero, in 5 hours prior to flying away of the plane. Were afraid of traffic jams - it was necessary to pass a quarter of MKAD. But traffic jams it was not perfect, and in Sheremetyevo we appeared in an hour, in four hours prior to flying away of the plane Moscow - Krasnoyarsk. At first the waiting time hung heavy, but after registration went more cheerfully.

was Wanted to be had a bite, but in “the Crumb - Potato“ there was only one baked potato. At first it was tried by Katya, then Borya, Oleg - it was not pleasant to all, and I began to pick slowly her fork. Seeing that I ate already a half and it is obvious with pleasure, all of them three in eager rivalry began to ask to give them “to try once again“ and “well mothers, we want too!“ . I refused and ate up this unfortunate potato in one snout. All of us laughed, having presented a picture from outside: four sit at a table, one eats the only potato, and the husband and children greedy listen spellbound and loudly ask to share, but do not meet sympathy at the heartless well-fad aunt.

Plane. Convenient, we were waited by plaidies. Flew up absolutely smoothly, but then several times hit “turbulence“ - shook the plane so that wings “swung the arm“ almost like at a live bird. The pilot by a mournful voice asked “to fasten hardly belts“, highlighting it “hardly“... Nevertheless fed, and nevertheless all drank the offered juice. We with appetite ate hot (mutton with potato or fish with rice) and snack - slices of white and red fish with a lemon, a slice of black bread and still a roll with oil. Then gave still tea with a lemon and small cake. More than four hours flew. All slept, even I dozed off for hour or so.

Arrived to Krasnoyarsk. Local time - the 10th mornings, temperature is over +30. Quickly received baggage and agreed with the man - Volgovod about delivery us to Krasnoyarsk, River station.

On the road (the airport from the city in 50 km) felt fine tired. On cash desks of a river shipping company 2 hours tormented us with issue of the tickets paid three months ago for a clearing settlement - was not on the place of the necessary person. At last received the tickets in the 47th cabin - four-seater 2 - oho a class on the average deck, near a shower and on the contrary toilet. Handed over things in a left-luggage office.

of Heat. 36 degrees. There is a wish to lay down under any bush and to fall asleep. Thoughts of excursions do not inspire, only water inspires. But water temperature in Yenisei near Krasnoyarsk +4. On the embankment does not leave feeling that somewhere nearby opened the huge refrigerator. It from - for lower a water intake from the Krasnoyarsk reservoir - water below a dam of state district power station comes to Yenisei from reservoir depth. We learn at local that bathing at them is organized in some gulf with still water. Locals show even the place where it is necessary to appear. It it is visible - obliquely through Yenisei behind the bridge. Clean air, the river conceals distance and Bor it seems that this place absolutely nearby. The thought of a taxi for journey of some couple of kilometers averts Borya, and we walk... Kilometers 5 by the sun and at 36 degrees tramped. Reached the silted bog with dirty, but all the same ice water. At my look tempted in cold water - approximately degrees 12. Bathed all the same, izvozit all clothes in silt. But it became good. Drove by the bus back. Took a walk a little in the center.

By 17 o`clock were tightened by

on pier, and by 20:00 became populated on the handsome man - the V. Chkalov motor ship and lay to sleep.

11. 06. 09. Woke up at 6 o`clock from hunger. Looked at the last passengers, under a pouring rain jumping in the motor ship. At last, at 7 in the morning under a roar of a thunder-storm and, of course, “Farewell of the Slav“, in fog ours teplokhodik went somewhere...

the Breakfast was tasty (Borya, Katya, Oleg - pancakes, and I with the great pleasure ate a huge plate of cream of wheat). It is raining, the motor ship floats very quickly downstream. 35 - 40 km/h - just fly. Therefore wind and to stand on the deck is coldish. But in autumn jackets and caps to us with Katya still anything. Most of passengers walks on the deck in shorts and t-shirts, but dashes. In cabins very warmly and comfortably. Windows big and very pure - through them all is perfectly visible. And places beautiful - clearings, the mixed and purely pine wood, islands, places - rocks low, overgrown with the wood.

I will collect the strength Now and I will solve 5 tickets according to traffic regulations (Traffic regulations - me soon to take examination driving test). Oleg reads, Borya sleeps and awfully drowsily and peacefully “podkhrapyvat“... Soon already and lunch.

(Aha! As - “5 tickets“! Answered 5 questions and fell asleep. But slept perfectly. And Borka both snored, and continues. Only on other side.)

B 11 of evening were in Yeniseisk. Stood hour. The ancient town which was once in the 18th century the capital of Krasnoyarsk Krai. The blossoming fell on gold mining times on Yenisei. In those days in the city there were 10 churches, two monasteries. Buildings are the interesting, remained ancient. A bottom stone - log top. Or all stone. From water ruins of an ancient belltower are visible, and in depth we found the well-groomed monastery, it has very curious form of a brick fence, the first time it is seen.


On the parking on the ship decently mosquitoes, fought with them at half of the night - at first killed all in a cabin with the special fumigant injector on batteries, and then aired a cabin already from the fumigant injector of it.

12. 06. 09. Slept perfectly, woke up at 11 o`clock. Already swam up to Yartsevo. Bought privately on pier of fried crucians, fried potato, sour cream and bread. Did not go to the coast, interested nothing - and the rain, strong wind and a hungry stomach did not inspire. But having had breakfast (pancakes, fried eggs and Herculean porridge), we rushed to feats. Having warmly put on, long walked on the deck. Wind was such that from me broke a cap with ear-flaps. Drops of a rain hit in the face as hailstones. Took a walk nicely, especially I liked to turn by wind a back and to allow it “to carry“ me on the deck.


has a sleep, we with Katya and Oleg played cards. Here and lunch: very tasty borsch with pampushkas (the small rolls impregnated and strewed with garlic), cutlet with macaroni, sauerkraut and fresh cucumber salad, compote from dried fruits. As we quite briskly discussed unusual qualities of borsch, brought us the visitors` book with a request to state our delights in writing. Stated, the personnel of restaurant are happy.

Only began to digest a lunch - here the parking - Vorogovo. Ashore a wall from the ice floes piled in several layers 5 meters high. Blocks us a way to the settlement. Tried to get (to us then told that it is dangerous - it is possible to slip between separate blocks, and Fick who will quickly pull out from there - it everything in a monolith froze together) - it did not turn out, began to bypass - wasted time. Returned to the mooring and got to bank of raspberry jam. Did not regret - odorous forest raspberry as though just ground with sugar. Already streskat. I will learn 4 tickets according to traffic regulations now. Ahead still stops and dinner.


not too was successful the Dinner (long waited for some cutlets on - Kiev) and took part of the parking on pier “Bor“. Very picturesque place. But did not risk to depart from the steamship any more, only I descended on pier and squeezed a well-fad mongrel; still observed how from our ship on the iron boat of the modest size unloaded a soft kitchen corner. The sofa flatwise on would be located in any way therefore it was put sideways, upright. The boat began to be developed dashingly under our board and top of a sofa slightly touched about the acting part of the ship. The sofa downloaded, but the driver of the boat held it with a hand, and nothing interesting occurred. Until I on all this it is captivated looked, continuing to squeeze a dog, the captain, appears, gave already command for departure. I look - and the ladder is already cleaned - I run. Also was in time. Now the 9th evenings and we with absolutely already slept Borya go for a walk on the deck. Then the shower - and to sleep.

13. 06. 09. Good weather. Sun. Wind nevertheless does not allow to sit on a nose, but aft, on the solar deck - it is possible even to sunbathe. I nestled on the deck on two chairs and solved the next 4 tickets according to traffic regulations. There was an interesting stop about the village of Vereshchagino. The well-groomed, nice village, but no mooring is provided - landing and disembarkation of passengers, and (attention!) freights it is carried out from small local motor boats. From the ship lower a steep ladder. The upper edge of a ladder will be bent a hook and clings overboard, and the bottom edge reaches water. Passengers have to climb on this ladder. Loading of the baby in a blanket and unloading of the refrigerator, rather big was especially effective. In the village electric columns are visible - but it seems that the electricity on all settlement is developed by diesel power plant - ten large tanks are visible ashore, and at houses a lot of firewood is put - means, tanks not for heating. Borka told that in tanks, most likely, place a diesel fuel reserve for work of diesel power plant for all season.

From further events wants to allocate the fire on our deck. From the most main, boat deck, threw a stub, and its wind blew on the average deck. On it there are ranks of boxes with fruit - vegetables, they also lit up. At first the team tried to extinguish them buckets with water, then two fire extinguishers - without success. Dragged up a fire hose and already filled in with it. There was a lot of smoke. In view of that we studied the cabin instruction what to do in any force majeure. Understood that it is necessary to go to the cabin, heat to put on, on a life jacket (we found them in our cabin) and to sit in a cabin, to wait for further indications of team. We decided that all - it is necessary to come, probably, to the deck and to drift towards lifeboats. But, as according to the instruction it is wrong, it is necessary to pretend that just went out for a walk. Presented all our team - I, Borya, Katya and Oleg “walking“, with it is brightened up - quiet faces (to instructions, besides, it is written - not to give in to panic) on the deck or a corridor, all in life jackets, towards lifeboats - neighed very strongly. That`s all so far events. The landscape though is monotonous, but is very beautiful. The diesel grumbles is slightly heard also with the minimum vibration, it is very similar to purring of a huge white cat. Noise of waves of the dissected Yenisei is louder, but too very pleasant. And! Here still that was amusing. We were caught up by the boat - a cauldron. It moored to us, the ship reduced speed. We from Bobkaya, of course, went to look whether we brought to us for sale of illegal caviar or still what good. But it turned out that the boat came to take away two passengers who at restaurant seemed more than an hour ago to us absolutely drunk, and they still were in the course of drink. At first long searched for them on the ship, and then long it was impossible to unload on the boat, it was difficult to them to get down on an iron ladder in the shaking boat. But eventually safely unloaded.

We play cards and we dream of a dinner.

is Sent in Borkaya to learn when: 1) a dinner, 2) we will come where - nibud. Learned. 1) The dinner is already declared - it is possible to be tightened in restaurant, 2) in half an hour - hour - Turukhansk.

Turukhansk. Observed grand welcome of the first passenger ship of navigation. Unloading of any freights, their fast overload on KamAZ and one more car, too with high passability was still curious. From the coast they should have climbed very steep slope - so one car became deaf on rise all the time. Explained to us that it because that in its tank there is not enough diesel fuel - on rise it flows down to one region of a gasoline tank, and diesel fuel begins to come to the motor with interruptions. But, poorly - it is poor, came around eventually. Walked across Turukhansku, saw interesting church without belltower, with separate special “arbor“ for bells. Looked from break to the place of merge of two rivers - Yenisei and the Lower Tunguska. Beautifully! There is a wish to sit down on the brink of break and to watch two at the beautiful rivers of hour. Swallows fly.

Sailed from Turukhansk. The special ship was moored to us, the Collector is called. It takes away garbage and the sewerage.

Washed in soul. Pleasure! Water in Yenisei though yellow, but very soft. Washes and washes everything until white, almost without soap, and does not dry skin at all.

of 12 o`clock in the morning. The sun shines with might and main. Full calm. Took a walk in the deck, took a picture the first white night seen by us. It would be time to sleep, but strange somehow to keep within at bright day. But nothing, we will close grow stout curtains and we will fall asleep. And that tomorrow we will oversleep a breakfast again. Travel is pleasant to me. Interestingly, but it is not tiresome at all. Borka is happy too.

14. 06. 09. Since morning stood in Igarka. It already behind a polar circle and on permafrost. Igarka - seaport, sea vessels can come into it. In a mooring bay ice floes with might and main float. Beautifully. Port obviously in desolation and neglect. Passengers told us that they now Igarka move - give money for purchase of housing in the south. Too expensive to support infrastructure. It is more favorable to deliver workers on the enterprises a shift method.

From incidents - the uncle on a motorka came, to take away the potato bag ordered by it. Was late, our ship already sailed. So it for some reason got between a landing-stage and the coast. There the landing-stage almost end-to-end to the coast costs. Our ship, sailing, pushed a landing-stage with a stern a little. That, in turn, pushed out the boat with the uncle on the coast, with it still a couple of ice floes. I on the place of the uncle would have enough adventures. But he indifferently pushed the to a cauldron back into water and still took couple of detours around the sailing large object, trying to achieve that to it somebody dumped its bag of potato. Courageous people live behind a polar circle, well.

On the street it is coldish - degrees 10. On a nose already we are also not put. And aft nicely took a walk, played a blind-man`s-buff. Made a group photo. I solved three tickets according to traffic regulations, now fast I will finish the fourth. Borya, Katya and Oleg play “one thousand“. Katya wins, and Borya and Oleg in minuses.

we Wait for Potapovo - it is the former state farm - the millionaire specializing in cultivation of polar foxes. Nowadays in decline, it is considered the center of poaching. There crowds of sellers of caviar and fish are promised us.


. No caviar and fish to us were offered, only tried will agree about what will be brought on the way back kilograms 100. Aha, that we were swept up with this fish, or she at us became rotten. But admired descent / raising of the ship boat and the floating ice floes. A lot of garbage in a bag is aft put, wind carries it across Yenisei, than seagulls are actively interested.

On the street it is cold, uncomfortable and monotonous. Snow, flat coast, gray wood. - zero have to come to 21 zero to a final point of our route - Dudinka. And departure - tomorrow at 12 in the afternoon. The plan for today - we will at once descend from Borkaya on the coast and we resemble hour two. Let`s look round, maybe, we will buy what tasty. And tomorrow, early since morning, we will jerk all team in bookstore. Mine potomstvenno intelligent children are eager, first of all, for new books. Or so affects not potomstvenno - intelligent blood, and banal lack of a computer and the TV?

For now Borka joyfully snores

. I asked it: Whether “Functioning of servers and computers in the sponsored organizations concerns?“ Answers: “Does not concern at all, they it is far.“ So rest takes place fully.

We have perfectly supper and stuck to Dudinka at ten o`clock of evening. Borka and I fast ran all over the city in search of the ATM ready to give out to us additional money. Did not find, found only office of Sberbank which works tomorrow from nine in the morning. In general found out that the majority of local shops works from the 11 or 12 day. I think, it from - for shift work at the local enterprises.

the City is not well-groomed

, but obviously inhabited and “live“. The beautiful embankment over Yenisei is made. It is a pity, 150 meters long. Well-groomed new church, the new building of Taimyr museum of local lore, the restored Lenin in an excellent state. And extremely beautiful sculpture of the Taimyr girl sitting by the turned boat and the embankment looking from break to Yenisei. Cars and people on streets it is not enough - but we were in the city around the 12th night. Light-it is perfect. As at 12 in the afternoon in cloudy day.

Agreed with the taxi driver that it will take away us from the ship at 9 in the morning tomorrow. We should remove money in the ATM - otherwise it is necessary to refuse, alas, dinners at restaurant. And to do itself scalded macaroni or potato. And there was no strong wish Still we want to shirk children and ourselves on this beautiful embankment... Still it is necessary in book - it is a pity only that it opens at 11 in the morning, and the ship sails in 12.

“V. Chkalov“ rose strongly away from the city - kilometers in three. It because near places all are intended for cargo vessels. For their unloading along the coast lay rails for huge cranes - every year new because last year`s breaks and carries away during an ice drift. Water still high - stuck directly to the mooring. And when water falls, the special landing-stage is necessary - it did not come yet, it is dragged off to winter in Podtyosovo is a base of all Yenisei fleet, in 500 kilometers to the north of Krasnoyarsk.

15. 06. 09. Woke up at 8 in the morning, on an alarm clock (it at me in phone) and decided to check half asleep whether there is a cellular communication. Communication appeared. I vigorously (as far as could right after awakening) counted that in Moscow now - plus 4 hours, i.e. the 12th day. Thoughts continued to turn drowsily, persistently ignoring the main thing - it is necessary to rise, follow boiled water for tea and to part forcibly the company. Instead the brain threw a saving delay: Whether “Not to call mother? Though hardly it will turn out at phone, in 12 - that one o`clock in the afternoon... Well, there is no harm in trying.“ And I dialed number... Communication long broke, at last, mother responded. I was delighted - aha, I think, found! By the first words it became clear that in Moscow 4 o`clock in the morning... But though found.

After such shocks the dream from me flew, we have breakfast and at 9 in the morning already descended from the steamship, the yesterday`s taxi driver did not deceive, waited for us. The ATM willingly shared with us money. We ran all over the town the second time. The town as the town - nice sculptures on streets, is stray dogs. Did not see any cat - I think, it because that there are no cellars. Houses on permafrost stand on piles, instead of the base - decorative zabirka in a half-brick. In holes of these the zabirok is visible ice and snow under houses.

Maternity hospital, policlinic, hospital and heap of any power and office buildings. Apartments sell for 400 - 500 thousand rubles. The city looks not everywhere and not always tidily - all communications are laid over the earth, besides musorno places - but only that snow descended, did not manage to clean garbage yet, probably. For the rest - very cozy, compact town, and for the most northern city of the earth - the city is unexpectedly good. And too, as well as in Krasnoyarsk, - bears on streets. Bought bread, cheese, sausages and two books, sugar. Borka is distressed that forgot tea in bags. In ship buffet one bag of tea costs 8 rub

Me such small punctures do not disturb - the main thing, and managed to see Dudinka, and were not late for the steamship. Freights on the deck are not hauled now. Northerners, generally from Norilsk (60 kilometers by car from Dudinka) go to holidays “to the South“. The mood is excellent, we go to heat. Dudinka, by the way, saw off our ship the real snow in flakes. I finish our biography so far and I start studying of traffic regulations.


- once rich state farm, zverovodchesky. And now - the center of the Yenisei poaching. Bought some fish from the boat - not a sturgeon, and not red fish - precisely. Like a crucian, call on - local a svarog. The team bought sturgeons in big white bags, but sharp muzzles of sturgeons tear bags and oblichitelno stick out. And as, it seems, cover, just in case in boats openly lies any resolved fish... We so wanted to participate in this holiday of life that bought two of these simple small fishes - sturgeons - that to us was not sold, from 50 kilograms, told.

the circus began

Further. At first learned from people around as in general this fish can be prepared. Chose - to salt. Cleaned and cleaned in a cabin sink. The knife elicited in the next compartment. I, appear, I am able both to clean and to clean fish. If it is necessary. The sink, of course, was tightly hammered with scales - but here Borka showed the talents - cleaned in 5 minutes, a fork and palms. In kitchen elicited salt. Cut off a plastic bottle and stamped in it the pieces of big fishes seasoned with salt. From above pressed down a can with water (raspberry jam by then long ago was eaten). We plan to have supper this fish now. For now we have a rest from works just.

On the street became warmer. Fed seagulls with bread from a stern. They even fought for large pieces. Seagulls ridiculous and beautiful, gently peep. By motor ship ten dogs of different colors - a pinscher go, a layechka, a sphere - drink (for some reason almost bald), a sheep-dog, a spaniel and the mongrel similar to our Dara, and still a fat silly dachshund. Still a puppy of some fighting dog, and still I saw a cat in a cabin. It was persuaded to eat a forage piece, and he utrobno shouted and did not eat. Dogs ridiculously and important walk on decks, meet - are sniffed. Pisat unanimously aft the average deck. Owners go behind them with a rag and a bag.

Did to

a stop in the middle of the river - I even began to worry whether the motor broke. It appeared, fishermen brought to the captain gifts - sturgeons and something in a package less (caviar, probably).


awfully long - I cannot believe that still this morning examined Dudinka...

can look with

still at a photo Here.