Slav brothers, or the Chronicle of one day (July, 2001) of
Having had heard plenty of stories that in Ukraine “what is only not present“, collecting was carried out at full scale. Morally we were ready to live even in the tent town at total absence of all benefits of a civilization. But here all preparations behind. After not really tiresome, but nevertheless a little persuasive service of the Russian customs, we appeared onboard Ukrainian “letak“ who brought us to the nice city of Kiev.
Going out of the plane, it is possible to think that it is not Ukraine tormented by political crises and economic troubles, but wonderful Austria or small Switzerland at all. There was a quiet summer evening. The new-mown grass, flowers of a linden and evening freshness were weaved into the uniform exciting aroma. Birds had quietly something in common and cicadas sang. On the lime avenue we slowly reached “the gotel “Borispol“ located in several hundred meters from the airport. Contrary to expectations, the hotel appeared the worthy three stars specified in the prospectus. For 20 dollars a day at your service a double room with a shower and hot water at any time, satellite television in all European languages, the refrigerator and the other benefits of a civilization.
the next morning, having risen at six in the morning, we went to Kiev. The road by bus to the nearest metro station “Levoberezhnaya“ took about 30 minutes. All around speak on - Ukrainian. It seems similar to the Russian, but it is softer and more melodic. We come to Hreshchatik stations and we get on the street of the same name. Morning of the working day. Pedestrians hurry for work. On a cobblestone road it is proud BMWs and Mersedes`Y rush. Only for the weekend the traffic on the Khreshchatyk is blocked off, and it becomes completely pedestrian. The old Khreshchatyk did not remain, everything was destroyed by war. Almost all buildings - Stalin construction. Down the street - Independence Square or on - Ukrainian the “Maidan Nezalezhnosti“. The venue of all city festivals and festive events was revealed us in a condition of huge building of the size of three football fields. So Ukraine prepared for the Independence Day - on August 24.
Having crossed the road, we got to the park of the same name. It is quite natural that in the morning on Thursday the privacy and rest reigned there. Only lonely athletes making morning jog occurred in the path to us. The park approaches closely Dnieper. And through rare gleams in violence of greens it is possible to admire a beautiful view from pridnepryansky steep slopes. The path in park brought us to the Mariinsky palace. The imperial palace in Baroque style was built in the 18th century. As well as all creations of the architect Rastrelli it is worthy that at least once in life to be what was seen. Farther we did not decide to go deep into park and, having armed with the card, went to look for Kiyevo - Pechersky monastery.
from the subway car, crossing Dnieper on the glass bridge, we saw the domes of the churches located on high slopes of the hill shining gold. Heart of the Russian Orthodoxy. History of monastery begins with the 11th century. More than once she was plundered, but endured Cumans and Batyya, fascists and the Soviet power. Here pilgrims came on foot, passing thousands and thousands of kilometers. Here relics more than hundred orthodox Saints are based. Among them - such famous characters of the Russian history as Ilya Muromets and Nestor the Chronicler. Here each centimeter of the earth will get belief. Here, as any more, you understand anywhere that Russia was, is and will be the great power.
Monks lived in caves which remained and up to now. Caves is a tunnel in the mountain, height in human growth. A cell - the crude not aired room, with a tiny window in the main tunnel. Tourists and believers move on caves, bearing before themselves the lit church candle. Also underground churches remained. Relics of Saints are located directly in caves. To pray to the Saint, it is necessary to tell:“ The Reverend a name of the Saint, God`s moth about us“. Forgiveness prays and ask health, forces. Also leave brightened up and strengthened in belief.to us was lucky
with weather. There was a clear day, and domes of churches is dazzling sparkled on the sun against tremendous, improbably blue high sky. In all magnificence before us the pearl of monastery - the Assumption Cathedral which is blown up in 1941 by fascists and restored in 2000 appeared. It is possible to rise to the very top of the Assumption Cathedral belltower. From here, from height almost in hundred meters, the beautiful view not only of monastery and Dnieper, but also far away from Dnieper opens. At good weather - visibility more than hundred kilometers. Having bypassed all monastery and the territory of the memorial estate, we went further. Our way lay to Victory park.
having Only left monastery, we noticed how intolerably bakes the sun. Temperature even in a shadow was obviously for 30. In park, contrary to my expectations, trees did not appear. Benches stood on the most scorching sun. Quickly passed by the sculpture “Motherland“ towering over all Kiev and Museum of Military Glory. In park a lot of military equipment is placed. For hryvnia it is possible to twist a helicopter steering wheel, to get into the tank, or to be photographed near the rocket. Having outright been frightened of a heatstroke, having poured out on the heads of a half-bottle of mineral water, we went to have dinner.
Already grew dark. Once again we got the card and moved off in searches of St. Sophia Cathedral. The way lay uphill, on a cobblestone road. We found a cathedral quickly enough, but not Sofia, but Mikhaylovsky. Tremendous beauty. Painted in national Ukrainian blue color, all in gold. The list cannot just take a view inside. They can be considered for hours.
In direct visibility from Mykhailivs`ka Square the belltower of St. Sophia Cathedral is. The cathedral strikes with antiquity and severe greatness of the plain lines. But it is not church and the museum. Thursday - there day off. Therefore inside we did not get.On it the cultural program of travel for Kiev was finished with
. Having passed about twenty kilometers for all day, having looked at a set of the museums of cathedrals and monuments, having enjoyed a bright sun, violent greens and the bottomless blue sky, tired, but happy, we returned to hotel. Next day we were waited by the station and the road to the Crimea. But it already another story altogether.