Rus Articles Journal

Thailand. View from the mountain. Part II

the Beginning

What we ate?

Even when settling in number to us had to fight for that to us released the refrigerator, “tayk - autnuv pass - bar“. Staffa sincerely were perplexed how we can refuse from pass - bar. It, by the way, and clear - since on it is not present a margin on service, as in bars and restaurants of hotel. Nevertheless, the refrigerator was necessary to us for another. So, next day after an arrival we went to a sightseeing tour which came to an end with visit of the fruit market. And it was something! We hammered with they are unknown, multi-colored, stupefying smelling sweet, soft, elastic, beautiful all refrigerator, and it was enough for all week.

Then I looked for fruit in Patong to buy a piece of exotic summer with myself to snow Russia, but they are not there. The scheme is approximately clear. In the fruit market of Phuket wholesalers who then, having washed and having cut all fruit variety on segments do shopping, will carry it on beaches of Patong. But I did not want a segment, I wanted to be picked the real fruit! And it is only the market. Dzhang Ceylon offered several versions papayek, apples and a segment of durian, considering, probably, that at it to exotic as durian, a variety of all the rest is not important any more. On streets traded only cleaned and cut. Eventually, I managed to find a fruit shop at the very beginning of Songgpoy Pi Road, but... scales at all not those. I advise - behind fruit only on the fruit market of Phuket! An annona (eat its already ugly, got out of shape and which began to korichnevet), mangoes, of course, mangostin seemed to me tasty (!) it is also banal the peeled grapefruit. I read about pineapples that they in Thailand absolutely special. Did not find anything special though, maybe, I just do not love pineapples. And here the Thai mango, really, is not similar to the fact that we got used to consider mango at ourselves in Russia - neither on color, nor to taste at all, and in a form very remotely. Tasty! Draconian fruit absolutely not tasty, but when outside a radish, and inside a roll with poppy - it is cool. Prickly rombutana also treat, and also bald the Lamut and langasat - it is similar, relatives, differ only to the touch and taste remind other fruit of Tye. Sapodila similar to our persimmon was not pleasant at all, well, I also do not respect a persimmon. We did not begin to taste durian, having taken the guide Lyudmila the word that the fact that for the Thai well, for Russian “karachun“. However, it did not belong to the Thai food!

the Place where it was possible to eat, near Tavorn was. We found this place, having gone to the track and having moved on a roadside to Patong (to the right). We meters passed three hundred. At first came across a certain institution, in appearance suspiciously zabegalochny modest type.

Is slightly farther than

- already absolutely slightly, meters through 20 from it, there is also a decent fish restaurant. Between them, seemingly, there is still some hint on a public catering point, but, it seems, not functioning. By the way, GPS according to the map of Phuket found 3 restaurants in this place.

- it is clear to

One, fish. And two others? On so high rank two remained points definitely did not pull.

with the Dinner for two in our snack bar, the closest to Tavorn, - we it fell in love! - cost us batics in 400 - 500. Beer and water were the most expensive at the same time. Most “local“ - company salatik with nutlets. The most sea - shrimps in batter. The most tasty - the nagrilenny svininka (beef and chicken too were present) which is small cut for dipping in different hot sauces. Soup there - alas! - did not give. Several times we took different salads, choosing something in the unclear menu, causing positive associations, or just sticking into the food ordered by someone from local. Salads were huge, various, with shrimps, crabs, squids or with meat - is shorter, salads (except for company - sharp with nutlets and with the leaves of cabbage and a basil given separately) represented an independent dinner for which more nothing is necessary any more!

We reconnoitered

that except several little tables directly the road, on a mountain slope, at our snack bar has still places from where our hotel, a decline, waves and the sea horizons is remarkably visible. The only inconvenience was that if long to stay at supper, then it is necessary to come back on a roadside in the dark, and taking into account random motion on the road it is not really comfortable. We lit a small lamp, designating it the presence. The cafe very much was pleasant! Truth! It seems that there did not expect tourists, were fed in it, generally local, and the personnel were not really able to speak with us. But they so tried, were so careful, benevolent and smiling that there was very pleasant to us. To us rubbed salad (“Spaysi, a spice, do not doubt!“ - “Luggage this and, we love!“ - “Be not afraid!“ - “And it that? No, you show whom he was when it was live? Aha, it is good! We will eat it here, both it, and this, and we will take away it with ourselves and we will carry away in the berlozhka“), cooked for us hot sauces, packed fish and chicken with themselves (at the same time sauces pour in tiny sacks and tie with elastic bands - nothing spills, it is checked!) filled in a package of a can of beer alternately with ice from a deep freeze, were interested whether everything is pleasant to us and whether it is necessary what, waved following.

we Came time and into civil fish restaurant. On an entrance in aquariums huge spiny lobsters important crept. Disorders of fish and seafood were located on ice. I chose to myself the hugest shrimp, from greed of a hapnul two, asked to zagrilit. The husband, as usual, was not exchanged for nonsenses and ate meat, but was caught up by exotic sea salads. At restaurant there was a menu with inscriptions in Russian, and we approximately imagined an order of the prices of the order. Left approximately to three thousand - much, of course, but also not catastrophically. And here we were struck by personnel. We nearly on hands were carried on the verandah which is brought most closer to the sea, seated, dusted around, and put to us the special young lady who during all dinner did not depart for a minute, stood behind a back and guessed desires: to bring a backet with the petals floating in water to rinse the fingers covered in crabs, to throw out my unfinished sauce which I on - plain offered the husband, and to replace it in the new fresh portion, to add beer in a glass at the time of drinking from there of the last drink and so forth. And, she guessed how it seemed to me, not my desires but only desires of the husband. However, what seemed! If she guessed mine, then would evaporate after the first fifteen seconds. That it was, we did not understand. On a verandah (the truth, on other its end) some more groups of visitors sat and ate quietly - nobody stuck to them, nobody guessed their desires. Whether the young lady should be released, having allowed it to leave, and we did not know, and kept it near ourselves all the time. Whether we in a temper ordered some of salads “with carrying out“, and it was included in the package. At some moment we in general began to be afraid that the price in the menu was specified not in baht, and in dollars and that to us now not to pay for such service! Well. Service at fish restaurant seemed to us persuasive. The Soviet person of this complaisance does not love - do not loom, let`s eat quietly, in a glass we are able to pour beer also. More there did not go!

Having lived

up to the last evening, not having tried volume - a hole, we understood that life is going to pass by, and went to correct this error in hotel Thai restaurant. There it appeared quite lovely. And, by the way, is cheaper, than in fish! Nauzhinali we on more than two thousand with wine. We sat on the coast almost alone. The Thai little girls, sprinkling in a cam, continually ran up to drag off from - under our table a black cat who persistently came back and wanted to roll exactly there. In passing they showed us as well as what eat that or it with. Riddle for us, however, and remained whether it is accepted to eat many ginger floating in soup or it is better not to contact it. The portions of shrimps brought to us (me) and meat (husband) turned out so frightening size that taking into account preliminary salad up to the end already nobody tried to eat up them. The rain gathered. Holiday gradually came to an end...

of Supervision

At Thais good ear for music. And when they learn languages, they remember “the musical phrase“. They repeat it quite purely and in an invariable look. But if you do not understand them, then they cannot tell the same differently, in other words, - it is unsuccessful for communication in foreign languages. That is, to us, Russians, it is in English even better to speak, for example, with Germans, than with British. Both we, and they speak foreign language more slowly, more clear, trying to obtain understanding of the partner use of various known turns and close words. With Thais this number does not pass, and with understanding there are certain problems. Probably, therefore they prefer to have just in case within reach of someone who speaks the necessary language and not to overstrain tourists explanations. We faced, for example, that they called the girl speaking in Russian, and she explained to us what they wanted to tell, by phone.

Thais live in harmony with environment and with heavenly spheres (our guide Luda so told us). And their philosophy does not allow scandals and graters. Therefore if the Thai faces that someone (for example, the tourist adhering absolutely to other philosophy) begins to row and passes on raised tone, then harmony of the Thai participating in dismantling can fall apart. From what he can get sick and even to die. And that it did not happen, the Thai prefers “not to notice“ the events. For example, can just turn and leave. Or to start talking to the following, already “without seeing“ the crying-out person on the waiting list. From where a conclusion - it is necessary to solve problems with them not a shouting, and smiling. To this statement of the Thai philosophy we observed a certain confirmation on the way back at the airport.

the Guide of a host - Luda. Luda was pleasant to us that happens very seldom - we will directly tell, just the first time so was. Luda was young, a miracle as is good herself, is happy with life, moderately informatively and moderately cool told about surrounding reality, drove on a mototsiklika, identifying us, the tourists stamping somewhere in rural areas on a roadside and the main thing - it was punctual. That is, here directly said that will appear in five tomorrow, and tomorrow in five naturally was on the place. We even became puzzled because we never came up against such situation, and here it turned out so that not it was late for a meeting with the guide, but we! We with pleasure communicated to Luda in hotel, went on a gratuitous obzorka and worked out the different financial questions on an obzorka formed (everywhere where we were brought, it was possible to buy something, and to pay off then, having transferred money through the guide, than we also used). And here to the real excursion we went not with Luda.

Already enduring

that arrived to Thailand organized round as the last suckers, we decided to find at least excursion on the street. The agency described in a network with the Russian-speaking guide in a quarter from Bangla Road, really, took place to be. But it was expressed only that at the intersection we found a tourist stall (even more likely not a stall, but a little table), with phone of the guide written in Russian. This stall did not give life signs and, having wandered a little on vicinities (suddenly someone will appear), we soon gave up to the first Thai young lady sitting through the road and who is laid over by tourist prospektika. Prospectuses disappointed. Really, it was written it seems more, than in host reklamka. That is, what at a host was offered to be examined for three, and even four excursions - the island of J. The bond, a lagoon in islands, available only during outflow, walk on a canoe, the village on piles, bats and still something - all this was offered for time here.

As it is natural how we saw then - same everything nearby, and to go there and there the second time both the third, and the fourth is somehow too... But price! The price practically did not differ from the price of the excursions organized by a host. What was obviously unfair! Eventually, and what for the sake of we were pounded here on a heat? But it turned out that everything is not so simple. On the street this excursion was sold to one, and another was carried with it together free of charge. Such here syllogism - probably not to beat down the price, and goods everything is to sell. So, we took the high-speed boat, and next day for us the car came. The Russian-speaking guide was not necessary. That is, perhaps, it, of course, would also be eloquent, but the Thai girl who conducted our national team on streets group, with inspiration spoke in English, we not really understood, but it was only to the best since her excursion speeches were consolidated approximately to it: Whether “And hungry you? (before restaurant) Oh, yes! And we will not go to fine restaurant! (joke) And here now all of us - all everything - amicably will go to fine restaurant! Oooooo! And whether you are hungry? (after restaurant - a joke...) And now all of us - everything will amicably eat a water-melon (distribution of a water-melon went). whether

you were with

A satisfied with a trip? Uuuuu! Then we are dumped in a cap by money...“ Tourists from one intonation amicably fell into a trance - interestingly why pioneer camp we had they, and they are mad about animation?. Well, language is not necessary - it is precisely! Especially as in our combined group, as well as it is necessary statistically, there were our compatriots (it seems, the former compatriots) who looked after us and translated those rare useful phrases which sounded from an ekskursovodsha (type, “collecting in 40 minutes“ or “these plank beds on the beach paid“). Amusing was to go as a part of such ill-matched group. We with interest observed the Arab lady of the improbable sizes with the tattooed palms (and from under a veil only they stuck out), accompanied whether the son, whether the grandson, couple of Italians (yes! it was nearly our first trip to the warm countries where we practically did not see Italians!) which together moreover in comparison with the Americans making the majority in group were unexpectedly silent and intelligent, to steam of Serbians, girls of the Greek look, someone, similar to the Chinese, two beautiful local little girls who decided to drive. What can be told about excursion? Excursion, really, passes across beautiful places. To the people in these beautiful places it is a lot of. We were satisfied that went once. But did not want any more. Throughout an excursion chain from tourists stryast an additional baksheesh - Egypt, hey, hi try!


To the airport us was brought when registration was well under way. On the way to a minibasika fellow travelers told each other horror stories as someone “directly at them in the eyes“ broke to himself legs, someone a back, someone a neck, and someone the head and as it is terrible to live. And as bitterly to them to come back to that hole where they live. We felt sorry for them. It was not terrible to us to live, we lived not in a hole, and we loved the house.

Having arrived to the airport, we were divided. The husband remained to get our bag from the most far corner of a luggage carrier, and I went to get in a queue on registration. Also stepped, having taken on a board number of an exit of the flight for number of a rack. Having found the numbered rack, I was much surprised how the public with which we flew here a week ago changed. Or all of them decided to remain in Thailand, and only local fly to Moscow with us? And the main thing - as is not enough persons interested on our plane... After a while the sharp-sighted falcon understood that he costs not there, and as a result in the ocheredishcha which are registered on our plane we appeared among the last. The turn practically did not move. Moreover, when in the distance it became possible to make out our window, it turned out that on it the inscription “House-keeper Premium“ flaunts. We were any not a premium, but to pass into other turn (already in the tail!) it seemed senseless at all, and we remained. As it appeared subsequently, here is how time this plate is absolutely harmless and does not exert any impact on registration. But impact on it was exerted by others nadpIse with rules.

Rule first: more than two we do not register. It meant that if you fly the company, then to be registered (so, and to receive boarding passes) all the same you will go no more than couples, and, therefore, on the plane will not be near. For families with juvenile children the exception humanely became. Sense of such mysterious rule (one more antialcoholic measure?) nobody understood, but Thais observed it strictly.

Rule second: the baggage no more than 20 kg is allowed to transportation. It means not only that about 20 kilograms of free baggage are the share of one passenger. It means that the suitcase in 25 kilograms in baggage will not be accepted in spite of the fact that it one on a family of three people. It is impossible to make with it anything. The family facing us with the small girl was forced to gut the chemodanishche directly at all under legs and to stuff excess belongings on packages and bags, having hung them where it is only possible, including on the girl who absolutely was stunned by the events and indignantly cried out. Staffov it did not confuse at all. Actually this rule universal, only usually personnel on it does not bother. The logic is approximately clear: the suitcase goes on a tape, but at some moment can be required to make human effort to shift it from a tape to the cart or something like that. And at Thais this effort cannot surpass 20 kilograms. Logically! They are, really, it is less than this suitcase! But everything would be nothing, not be so unexpectedly...

Rule third: to salon (hand luggage) only the bag weighing up to 5 kg will go to the person. Rule too universal and too anywhere not observed. Well, however, I am not forbidden to weigh 2 kg more, than I weigh now why I cannot drag the bag weight not in 5, and in 7 kilograms? In total so. But somewhere there have to be borders... And Thais had them on the lawful five. And we who got used in immemorial airport sloppiness dragged with ourselves fair amount of fruit in a backpack which modestly was called hand luggage (one for two!) and which I easily and gracefully hung up on plechiko. Our turn, meanwhile, came nearer, and even the rearrangement of excess fruit in a package because the fruit in a package which are handed over in baggage are not fruit any more could not solve our problem of overweight... Grace of my handling of “hand luggage“ did not deceive the lovely girl on a rack, and a finger she asked to put my backpack on scales. The arrow began to hesitate on a mark 16. Joyfully smiling, the girl showed on excess 6 kilograms and was going to register the following people on the waiting list, having provided to us to get rid of the kilograms as to us will like. It is necessary to notice that I was fairly inspired at least by the fact that from me do not demand packaging of the allowed weight of hand luggage on 5 kg. To unite hand luggage, our with the husband, attendants of the airport were not against. And here caught sight to me...

Rule fourth: the weight of hand luggage in 5 kg on the person does not extend to winter clothes which residents of the cold northern countries drag with themselves in inside of the plane not to ice over on an arrival in the native airport. I with inspiration pulled a sleeve of the flannel shirt which was carrying out at me a role of winter clothes from a backpack and stuck it to a tayka into a nose, and then into the rule fourth. And... the young lady began to smile even more radiantly, readily agreeing that this sleeve will precisely extend kilograms on seven. The problem was solved - we were joyfully given boarding passes, and even on the neighboring places.

That is interesting. Representatives of airline, and also all and any hosts did not find time to put on registration of any person understanding in Russian. Therefore on the solution of all the problems tourists were thrown as on an embrasure - excited (registration - that comes to an end!) lost (not guided that it is possible to make - to be repacked, pay in addition, to throw out, at last, the excess fruit or to devour them, without departing from cash desk), the essences of claims upset which often are not understanding and angry. I think that it is made purposely - if in Russian someone talked, then tourists would try “to agree“, appealing to “bezumnost“ of rules and showing various “convincing“ arguments as that presence of juvenile children, lack of money, own helplessness etc. etc. Left to the mercy of fate, they it is thin - poorly concentrated and in some way overcame unexpected obstacles. Well. In Thailand none of passengers, it seems, remained. But registration at the airport of Phuket was not pleasant to me categorically! But further, in a waiting room there were quite lovely little shops with souvenirs, it was necessary to wait already absolutely not for long, and we flew up almost in due time.

the winter came nearer Again. Thailand attracted...