Rus Articles Journal

The successor of Ice Age

Geyranger - the fjord, the representative of “Fjords of the Western Norway“, - an outstanding sample of young post-glacial landscapes - in July, 2005 was included in the list of the World natural heritage of UNESCO. And in November, 2006 when to objects of the World heritage gave points for safety of their natural state, Geyranger - the fjord got the highest point.

This unique creation of the nature represents

20 - the kilometer branch of Storfyord clamped between the ridges Romsdal and Norangsdal which are logging in the so-called Sunnmyorsky Alps - the most impressive massif of Norway. Geyranger - the fjord contains in the name a tautology, usual for toponymics:“ anger“ on - staronorvezhsk “fjord“. But “geyr“ - “an arrow tip“. And it is valid, the top part of the fjord as if the dart, sticks into mountains and proceeds the gorge of the rapids river in the direction of top of Dalsnibba (1 550 meters).

Not made by hand architecture of fjords arose nearly 10 000 years ago, on an end of Ice Age when the glacier began the movement to the ocean and in literal sense moved apart mountains. Using the enormous weight and fragments of rocks as an abrasive, it pressed through and scraped out a bottom, straightened boards, forming so-called U - the figurative trough valley. In Geyranger - the fjord it is put by Precambrian gneisses age more than 3,5 billion years and shows magnificent samples of the most ancient continental bark on the sites opened with a glacier. Partly for this valuable geological “exterior“ Geyranger - the fjord together with Neryoy - the fjord were also awarded attention of UNESCO. By the way, Neryoy - the fjord is the narrowest in the world, its steep rocks up to 1 000 meters high approach to distance in 250 meters.

does not have

On Geyranger presence of the person in the sense that here on the rivers and falls there are no power plants and other objects which are built on other Norwegian fjords. Only single lodges yes of a power line, it is reserved going along a woody slope or passing from one coast to another. As for locals, people came to these regions rather recently: 3 - 4 thousand years ago when climatic conditions on the western fjords of Norway appeared more - less tolerable. It were not primitive tribes, but communities knowing bronze and iron, but still using tools from a stone and a bone. Hunting and fishery became their main occupations, of course, then - the cattle breeding also is much later - agriculture. For centuries they lived in solitude here and counted on themselves and the families more. Today they are torn not so off from the world though the habit to live separately nevertheless remained.

From Geyranger to coastal towns of the province to the Measure - og - Romsdal about 100 kilometers. From pier Magerskholm the ferry is lucky an hour and a half on direct as a pipe, Yorund - to the fjord, to the town of Leknes where travelers appear on the earth again. The way from Leknes to Hellesyult - the town located in the basis Geyranger - the fjord, - lies on a gorge bottom Norangsdalen along the slopes which grew with a coniferous forest by glacial lakes, snezhnik and abrupt avalanche rocks. At the edges of the highway, on grassy, rather “quiet“ slopes amusing stone izbas, tiny, with zadernovanny roofs, nestled to each other as if sheep come across. Lodges, similar to fantastic dwellings, - property of quite real farmers are, however, manned they only in the summer when on mountain pastures the juicy grass grows. In Hellesyulta the local falls are harmoniously entered in simple architecture of the town. By the way, almost in each village of “the country of fjords“ there are, house, falls which quite would be enough to glorify separately taken small country. But not Norway! It abounds with falls. For example, the highest in the country (and the eighth in the world!) - Mardal - falls the double cascade from height of 655 meters.

Swimming from Hellesyult to Geyranger takes with

50 minutes. Falls remain behind a stern as milestones. In cloudy weather they - as if the lightnings which stiffened against dark rocks. The coast of the fjord abrupt, from top to bottom, as far as there is enough look, grown with the dense wood. Only on the top the wood “runs low“, giving way to the mountain tundra and glacial moraines. The main trees of the Norwegian wood - a fir-tree, the Scottish pine and a birch. Fir-trees stand densely, “shoulder to shoulder“, going down in places to the urez of water. Grandness of the surrounding nature is so big that its ordinary inhabitants are wolves, deer, otters, seals and even whales - are easily lost in open spaces and depths. But in imagination unsophisticated other beings who came from the Scandinavian myths arise primitive beauty of travelers: gods, monsters and giants. Ognenno - the red athlete of Torahs with a magic all-destroying hammer Myyollnir fought against giants and the main monster of Scandinavia - the World Dragon which could disappear easily exactly here, among the gloomy rocks leaving under water on hundreds of meters in green depths Geyranger - the fjord. But now, probably, not its time, but water in the fjord it is quiet. Here from the high sea only inflow and otliva which at such steep coast are almost imperceptible do not reach a storm. On border of the Atlantic and Ledovity oceans the climate both is severe, and is whimsical. The sun pleases here and guards. Too blue sky, too green grass, too deep shadows. Wind from the sea brings low overcast - this layer of clouds beginning approximately on 400 meters of height covers the fjord as a mutton cap, and falls “hang down“ from the sky in white braids.

of the Wall of the fjord sometimes so abrupt that it is unclear how trees can cling to them. But any adaptability of life the limit comes: darkly - the green wall of the wood is torn off suddenly by a stony talus, and behind it - the monumental rock on which stone “face“ of the giant - creation of the unknown sculptor with thousand-year patience is suddenly shown.

Geyranger - the fjord is a theater of falls with a moving stage. Sometimes it seems that the ferry stands still, and coast float towards, bringing to a proscenium falls of one behind another. Each falls are individual. Its course - its “lifeline“. At one it thin and twisting, with cunning turns, at others - energetic and direct. Falls are silent: from the middle of the fjord where there is a ferry, noise of water is not heard. And only if it hands over closer - as if the window is cracked from wind and a rain. The falls come to life, find a voice, color and if carries with the sun, are covered with a rainbow.


About the best-known falls put legends as, for example, about “Seven Sisters“. Once long ago one courageous Viking came to the village to ask in marriage. To it suggested to choose from seven beauties - sisters one. Girls were so good that the Viking became puzzled. To whom to give heart? The task and remained not resolved. Time left, and all heroes of a legend two beautiful falls on coast of the fjord stiffened.“ Seven Sisters“ - seven squirts similar to maiden tears, and full-blooded “Groom“ - mighty falls on the opposite coast. The ferry passes “Seven Sisters“ and if to turn back, it is possible to see above, at the first step of falls, at the height of 250 meters, among magnificent greens two - three lodges as if thrown there by unknown force. It is Nivsflo`s farm left by inhabitants in 1898 from - for threats of falling of the hung rock. People moved to Geyranger, but in the summer from time to time come back to mow down some special hay which is lowered then on cables and take out by boats. In general, a lavinoopasnost - the main fear of locals. The children playing in the winter on slopes, parents connected among themselves and tied to a column. On average three times in a century occur the catastrophic collapses claiming tens of the lives and destroying villages. There are also floods. In next That is the fjord the rock which fell in 1934 caused a wave 62 meters high!

For fjords all this is dust of thousand-year history. For the people living in limits of one century, of course, is not present. But the matter is that Norwegians have a love to the wild nature - in blood, and love not idle, not fashionable at present, but deep and real.

As for us, guests of these places, the intoxicating action of the wild nature takes place when you begin to understand that everything that you saw, already was in those ultraboundary times where it is incapable to glance even imagination. Also there is suddenly a shrill feeling of the instant stolen from eternity in which you appeared some miracle, - an instant of life which, maybe, will recede again under the pressure of ice and silence soon.