Rus Articles Journal

Light waters of Parma

When wind abates, the cherry mountain Telpos is moderated by ruddy light. The cloud which sat down on the Zyrian Olympus takes the form of the huge head which is propped up by hands with the elbows leaning on slopes. This mystical head keeps a form till the most taiga night while on the sky does not pour out star sand. Then, having hooked for an edge of steep, the cloud stretches, representing a volcano smoke, and the taiga sinks into a sleep...

National park of Yugyd Va National Park - one of the largest wildlife reserves of the world - is located in North - east part of the Komi Republic. Its area makes 1,8 million hectares from which a half - 985,8 thousand - is covered with the woods.

in the territory of park located the highest point of the Urals - the mountain of the People, 1 896 meters. One of symbols of park Mount Manaraga terminating in six peaks is also considered. In mountainous areas there are 38 small glaciers, the most noticeable of them - Hoffman`s glacier on ridge the Sabre. Numerous lakes, their more than 800, are located at considerable heights. Especially beautiful - the lakes Trade, Balbanta, Okunevye. The largest rivers - Podcher, Shchugor, Big Synya and Kosyyu. In them valuable breeds of fishes spawn: salmon, paliya, taimen, grayling, chir, whitefish, pelyad and bull-trout.

Some plants of park (47 types) - endemics. The homeland of many of them - Eastern Europe and North America. Relic plants got to the Urals into a freezing era from the mountain regions of Asia. It is Kuril tea, a rhodiola four-membered, a butterbur, an anemony Perm. Six types are included in the international and Russian Red Lists.

of Yugyd Va National Park - the richest region of Komi on a variety of fauna. Here 190 bird species, 30 species of mammals and 20 species of fish live. In park it is possible to meet a bear, a wolf and an elk, a glutton, a fox and a lynx. Only here the northern creeper, the vole Middendorfa and a hybrid of a sable with a marten - a cutis are found. From birds - rare a sea eagle - belokhvost, a skopa, a gyrfalcon, a golden eagle and Sapsan.

Komi Republic. Virgin forests occupy 15% of the territory here. In 1994 their most part was declared by National park of Yugyd Va National Park which became the largest protected natural zone in Europe. The Yugyd Va National Park that in Komi language is meant by “light water“, stretched on a meridian along the western slope of Subpolar and Northern Urals almost for 300 kilometers and occupies the mountains, the foothills and lowlands created more than 200 million years ago. It is more than a half - the woods, or as they are called here, “Parma“: fir-tree, cedar, larch and fir the Siberian. It is a lot of birch which diversifies with spots of yellowness deaf fir-tree greens in the fall.

At final delimitation of park did not do without local fights. Especially the industrialists of the republic extracting placer gold in a river basin Kozhim resisted. At last, several high examinations convinced all of need of inclusion of the area of the river Kozhim in National park and the terminations of ecologically harmful gold mining. And still here, on gold mine workings, the tundra in the previous form will not be restored any more...


in the territory of Yugyd Va National Park allows Today no industrial activity. The exception is made for the Shine of the North gas pipeline crossing the southern part of park (its pipe with different services a glade lasts on the live wood), and the Kozhimsky extracting enterprise which is engaged in development of quartz in mines of Intinsky district. In 1996 at the initiative of “Greenpeace“ of Russia the Yugyd Va National Park together with Pechoro - the Ilychsky reserve on which the park borders in the south was included in the List of UNESCO Natural World Heritage Sites under the name of “Virgin Komi Forests“.

Where there lives wind

... Early morning. The helicopter is put by a bend over a wide tape of Pechora, turns to the right and at once is lost over is green - yellow scope with mirazhny mountains in the east. Ridges of marsh fields remind desert barkhans. From - under them, gleaming in thick mosses, streamlets run. The boundless taiga reminds a skin of a huge animal. He sleeps, privalivshis a back to the Big Stone - to the Urals. The spotty skin is cut up by the rivers, and it turns out that at an animal blue blood in not healing wounds. And that there further, in deep depths, - incomprehensible secret for human mind.

Ridge the Sabre props up a cloudy ceiling, having hidden in it tops. Break of the western slope snow-covered, it is black - white, spotty. We fly in close space between the hung clouds and artful kurumnik (the rivers of stones) where deer break a leg. Slowly the helicopter around the mountain slides, approaching a steep wall while it does not occupy all space of the review. Grandiosely!

we do not decide to Sit down at the Sabre, fog and wind at tops are unpredictable. We leave sideways, to the third gate of Shchugor. The helicopter falls below, and color weight below begins to be divided into separate trees, returning to eyes habitual scale. On a carpet of a bog the pale-yellow elk goes. It raises the head on noise of our screws and the huge horns touches a back.

From a spring cradle in heart of mountains Shchugor hundred kilometers on the North between ridges of the Stone belt run (the Urals. - Editor`s note) . Then breaks on east slope a close corridor of a tectonic break between the Northern and Subpolar Urals. It flows on the way of the glacier which plowed the Pripechorsky lowland, leveled rocks. The first rocks begin only the ambassador Ovin - Parma. Here the river during a young time punched a stone range, having left a huge stone for memory. The current washed behind a pebbly spit with a twig in a collar of a low osier-bed. From above Ovin - a stone - a small cube in the middle of the course. Close - as the house.

Ya I live in a taiga zaimka near the coast of Shchugor now. A semicircle bending around two-headed Mount Telposiz, the river branches channels, is split up by islands. Between the river and spurs of the mountain impassable moroshkovy bogs. Telpos - From - epic top, a wind nest where on slopes still traces of enormous legs of gods are visible. Here conditional border of Northern Urals with Subpolar. The only road here - the decayed winter road, the being Sibiryakovsky highway. Hundred versts last it from the village Ust - Shchugor, crossing bogs and rivulets, and leaves to the Urals. Before revolution it was the brisk way to Priobye, to Lyapino (Saranpaul), with sentry posts, with inns. Went more often in the winter, by sledge. In the summer - sometimes, dragging passing bogs. From Siberia brought wheat - improper from West side of the Urals there was for it a climate, it was raised here only in war. And now the ancient path absolutely grew, on it you will meet nobody, except a wild animal now.

Locals say that in vicinities there are roads which are not marked on maps which were constructed by the legendary gold miner Tumanov. It ruined Kozhim`s valley, dug up on a taiga of prospecting holes. Where it now - it is unknown, but here did troubles.

Having been tired for hot summer, Shchugor shoaled. Bared ridges of boulders and thin rifts. But we will not avert run of a glass cloth. Epic Telpos always looks at you, it is worth coming to the spacious place. Whether you go the coast or you break on an undersized osier-bed, he from above watches. Telpos all the time sees you. Not without reason Zyrians considered it the Olympus. More convenient you will not think up the place for supervision of live.

On the mountain it is always windy though below calm. There something hoots, groans, howls lingeringly. On the Zyrian belief, there lives on Telposa wind, and a weak sound of a human voice, the smallest noise about the mountain can cause a terrible storm. Earlier, floating by, people stopped, turned in rags of an oarlock of oars that did not creak. Knew that gods do not like to joke.

In three kilometers above on a current the fantastic lake in a frame from pure gold of aspens hid in a jungle. Here ducks and geese like to have a rest. Long and narrow, similar on a channel, with low, not fenny coast, with deep water. It, logically, should not be here. You go on the wood and suddenly you will come across a strip of dark water. And nothing will prompt in ten meters that it there. This mirror of Telpos. Long that it was looked to the utmost. Silent that it was truly reflected in a smooth surface, twisted waters of Shchugor - a mirror muffled.

Podcherem`s Coast

Podcher - the river of the southern part of Yugyd Va National Park, the second for the size. On the cape about the village of Podcherye, me wait for the only settlement in the territory of park in the wooden boat - a komyachka the inspector Ivan Anufriyevich and the forester Zhenya Fefilov. From muddy Pechora it is turned in Podcherem`s mouth, and depth becomes centimeters thirty at once. From - for transparency of water it seems, as it is less of that.

To our purpose, the former village of Orlovka, - 28 km. On water wind disperses, blows through, cools to the core. The river is distributed in the flat coast which overgrew loznyaky in the beginning. Then hills with the rocks hanging over water begin to be piled up. The stone is layered as pie, and layers stick out obliquely as if it a current so bent them. On shelves of rocks small freckles scattered saffron milk caps. Them call rocky here. In mushroom years slopes are so generously covered with mushrooms that become red.

the inexpressible solemnity in the movement of the boat under Kyrt steep - Warta Is. The boat becomes the baby at once, and we are defenseless children. From a gray-haired monolith proceeds, hanging in air, a distinct low note. She reminds of grandiose tectonic work of the past when us and was not trace. On rifts where waters up to an ankle, we get out and we push the boat. And all this so abruptly, so on - taiga that suddenly I see us from outside as if I watch the movie about pioneers. Feeling that you in the movie, it is so persuasive that should even be stirred up imperceptibly the head. It is necessary to tell himself silently: the man, it is also life of this minute, and the present all here. Both the wood, and rocks, and cold, and the river - all really.

the Name of the village and rivulet falling near it into Podcherem went on behalf of the Oryol hole (Eukzh a hole). According to the local legend, under the rock Komi fished, and the huge salmon, kilogram came across to them thirty. In her back the crooked claws of a sea eagle - a belokhvost stuck out. The robber decayed. It is visible, he seized fish and did not calculate force. And claws are so arranged that are not unclenched during hunting. And the robber with a salmon went to depth.

In Orlovke now three houses. Two darkened, chineny - mended, and one fresh. It is built here for tourists by national park. I freely settle down in park, and Ivan Anufriyevich with Zhenya spend the night in distant. Around silence. The taiga in an autumn anesthesia calmed down. Tell that still somewhere in an inaccessible jungle, live in undercover depths of the woods, bearded men in the shabby, lost initial color cassocks pray to God. Old Believers are skrytnik. Look as wood goblins. Chiefs by blue helicopter, two men and two women were somehow to them. Bearded men did not let women in the house and with men were silent more, listened. Chiefs long were surprised then supposedly so many sins in life to do that in a taiga decades to pray for forgiveness them are necessary.

my program includes visit to Arce. The rocky sanctuary is located on the right coast of Podcherem, in the mouth of the river flowing sideways Big Drovatnitsa. It is considered that the Arch was formed from a meeting in the steep rock of two grottoes, from two parties which are washed up by two rivers. This unusual occurrence already in itself. Archeologists carried out excavation here and found a half of the Central Asian coin Samanidov of the 10th century, a couple of objects of the end of the century of XI and there are a lot of burned bones of animals. Understood that there was an ancient altar, a door to the world of gods and dead here. Sacrificed them the head and legs of an animal as a symbol of the whole animal, and hulk was cooked for a ceremony - a holiday. When the grotto fell off from time, having turned into an arch, left the Komi it is the place.

Today the Arch became

popular tourist object. The park organized below the parking with a campfire, places here of extraordinary beauty - Drovatnits`s rock directly shoots from a jungle, on the opposite coast of Podcherem is spacious there are rocks with a wood belt low. From above the epic look opens. You will present for a minute of the ancient person and you will understand that not to find the best place for a sanctuary around.

the Heated knife struck

the clumsy cloud which tarried in the West from within. The horizon blazed a wound. Its thin section became stridently - lemon, and the bottom of near clouds was lined with a carmine. Other sky kept darkly - a violet, gloomy immovability. Only the river in a rapid current unrecognizably smeared this decline. From water fog crawled. Stars were scattered. The full moon crumbled spangles on rifts, and the decline all did not come to an end, burning with a long strip in the dark. Unexpectedly from cold depths of space the bird`s hubbub reached. Invisible geese flew on the South, warm fluffy lumps among constellations. On all signs - the Indian summer rose.

When should leave from this the wise, old world when the boat motor hums, you understand suddenly what stuck heart, the rhythms having adapted to silence. Communication is noticeably torn. Also fills pity to itself as if voluntarily you sirotet. The Yugyd Va National Park is a legend, it is memory of the past and hope for the future. And the legend has no end.