Rus Articles Journal

Tramps of the South. Third season. Began part 2

Unfriendly Tarkhankut

Is visible, Tarkhankut this time was not really glad to us. Only one day of the parking was given rather warm and quiet. The whole other days entertained continuous change of weather from a dazzling heat to cool gusty wind, from a clear sky to black thunderclouds, from the sea warm and tender to cold, muddy, storming... Strange everything - this year summer... Arrived to the habitual coast in the afternoon, have on the way dinner in Yevpatoria, were loaded by products in a supermarket and took vegetables and fruit on the route around Vilino. The space for the parking was found quickly. And even it seemed to us that this our last year`s place. But the confidence was not. Too strongly here the coast outline changes every year. Began to put tent. When there arrived friends, drank beer for a meeting, and then already slowly set up camp.

usual tarkhankutsky days with steppe dawn and declines, the sun and wind, smells of a grass and the sea, chirring of grasshoppers and noise of waves Began

. And usual tarkhankutsky nights with the star sky. Surprisingly it is not enough insects this year, but in a grass near camp the viper was noticed. Last year we found a dry snake skin ashore, and now here met also her possible hostess. And again compelled need to close tents and to carefully shake out sneakers before to put on them. From all these scolopendras and karakurt there will be a rest only in Cheerful. For now it is necessary to be careful.

of Meat price in the market in Black Sea read off scale above any reasonable limits, but it is difficult to refuse in pleasure to fry to himself a shish kebab by the sea. Each stage of preparation is pleasant here! At first you cut meat large pieces, then onions rings, you salt all this magnificence, you add fragrant spices, from only one smell of which appetite inflames. The sun begins to slide to a decline, wind almost abates, splash of waves becomes more silent. Already both the fire crackles, and meat is strung on a skewer... But! Again someone offended weather today. And it to spit that we planned a shish kebab. The clouds hiding somewhere nearby and which were waiting in the wings unexpectedly rushed in attack, having captivated all space of the sky both over the sea, and over the steppe, and over our modest camp. The first drops of a rain break and fall on the heated fire coals. Also it is necessary to save urgently situation because there is a chance to be left today without dinner. The shish kebab is roasted to a turn under an umbrella that delights children. And the delicate perfume of fried meat floats over the sea, teasing a tea and dolphins. And then we sit under a canopy, we have supper, and unknown representation is played around. Heavy early twilight covers the steppe, lightnings with the poured glow flashes over the sea on all horizon. It is good that a thunder-storm it is far from us, somewhere there, in the sea and in the far town Peace. Thin, fast lightnings chose for themselves targets and hit into them with stubborn constancy. It is beautiful and terrible so that takes the breath away: complete darkness, neither the moon, nor stars, the black sky, the Black Sea, Mirnyi`s sparks and the shining streaks lasting from the sky to the earth...

A next day again wind and storm, and cold sea. The trip on the lake Donuzlav rescues. Here full calm and warm transparent water. It seems and water salty, and the sea well you will not call in any way. I love this place. The children bathe, collect cockleshells, catch crustaceans - hermits and sea horses, and then release them back in water. An hour heat with a mask - and the whole grid of rapan for dinner. And to pass hundred meters through a braid - and you get on the wild sea coast. This time there are inhabitants - then, lonely tents are seen there.

to Indulge in vain hopes - a thankless job. It is possible not to wait for anything good. Here and all of us waited and waited, and the sea stormed everything and stormed, and just there was no chance left to see it here transparent, warm and tender. The children began to miss. Well, means, time to be turned and go further, through all Crimea from the West to the East in search of the better life came. Since morning the friendly sun shines, and even wind almost abated. It seems that Tarkhankut suddenly thought again and asks with captation: “And, maybe, you will remain?“ But the offense on it at us is deep: “We loved you, we to you went, we told all what you remarkable, we cleaned garbage on the beach, we photographed you and about you shot the movie, and you... There is no, darling, it was necessary to think earlier!“ It is necessary only to take the last lovely pictures in beams of the morning sun, to pack things and to sail away. So far, Tarkhankut! Think of the behavior! Time heals offenses so we surely still will see!

In the Kutlaksky bay

I again habitual and such native outlines Guard - Both, and gray sand rustles under legs, and the sea rolls the waves from left to right, with stereoeffect as though there go on the beach invisible cars. And feeling that came back home after long business trip. In Cheerful nothing changed. Only money for the parking take more and more, and, still, all do not build souls and do not build. Well it is fine, not in soul happiness. The near site of the beach is quite densely occupied with tents, there is only one town and that not absolutely successful. One tent an edge everything is touches a drain. Place here capricious. And if old residents do not remember a case when waves reached tents, but some stories about how the descended mudflow washed away parking of careless tourists and even the car. It is necessary to put tent almost closely to neighbors, children from St. Petersburg. They do not object, even suggest to move. As here it is good! Even despite cold water. What to do, this year it such everywhere. But all - is hope that the remained 8 days we still are bought in plenty.

With water something unimaginable indeed was created. You wake up in the morning, you go to the sea to wash and you understand that it is impossible to come into water. Here it is impossible - and all! In an hour in it it is already quite possible to float, and in an hour children lap without getting out because there was it suddenly degrees 20 - 22, it is not less in any way. Well, how it is called? Miracles and only! Weather was everyone, mostly good, allowed both to be bought and to be acquired. However, there was also one almost sleepless night when in the New World the thunder-storm stormed, and over us black clouds hung and lightnings sparkled. It was difficult to relax and to fall asleep because a heavy rain in Cheerful, alas, piece quite dangerous. Then at a forum I read that that day in the New World there was a thunder-storm, “what old residents do not remember“. Everything was: both a pouring rain, and a mudflow, and the road destroyed by places. And we, in only several kilometers from the New World, got only terrible peals of a thunder, glow from lightnings, ten rain drops and a good portion of adrenaline. In general, it is necessary to notice, this year we were inexpressibly lucky. How many time was seen from outside by tremendous thunder-storms, but they, fortunately, practically did not concern us. Only this way, slightly - slightly a loop of a rain and wind hooked yes on posverkal to frighten. Nearly an every evening clouds crawled with a new force, threatening to spoil us a dinner, and we every time guessed, there will be a rain or not. But clouds hung, looked, became angry, and then suddenly disappeared several minutes as though they here also were not.

having A little been tired of beach life, we get out to ride to the cape of Meganumber horses. Then turned in the Pike perch to give the chance to children a little to take a walk in “civilization“ and to pozaglyadyvat on trays with souvenirs. Having a little wandered on the central streets and the embankment, incredibly there was a wish to return somewhat quicker on our remarkable beach in Cheerful. There was an impression that we not on vacation, and already came back home. A heat, asphalt, cars, dust, crowds to the people, the filled beach, the muddy sea... No, such rest any more not for us. I will not exchange for anything freedom and pleasure from communication with the nature for your benefits of a civilization... The only pleasant place is a park by the sea. Moreover one useful - the market. Not by the sea uniform the person is full...


to Children it is not sat in place, they are torn in the next campaign. Well, it is necessary to satisfy their rush. We conceive to descend on foot in the New World and back through top Guard - Both. Of course, it would be simpler to round mountains along the sea, and then to come to a track of Golitsyno. But it is too boring. Therefore we rise up abrupt, a loose footpath from children`s camp, then we clamber above and above - and already a bay clearly. Both cicadas chirr, and junipers smell, and the sun hides behind clouds, giving the chance to take rest a little from a heat. To top decided not to rise - malyshnya was tired. Looked at top and a tripod of a reference point from below, to go - that remained absolutely slightly - slightly. But we here already once were and the purpose of travel absolutely another. We have a rest above, we admire a magnificent panorama of the Kutlaksky bay and we begin slow descent in the New World.

Ya was not in the New World since 2003. I was not in the best place on Earth of already whole 5 years! I even forgot to what it is beautiful here what improbable pictures open behind each turn, behind each curved juniper, behind each pine. I forgot what here unearthly air. I forgot what unusual color here the sea. I forgot that here directly under legs cactuses grow in mountains. I forgot what happiness fills soul here. And I did not understand still why it occurs. But exactly here to me it was always unusually easy and joyful. With some pressing nostalgic feeling I remembered our first walk on a track of Golitsyno, the first campaign on Guard - Both and the first rise on the Falcon. I remember absolutely deserted Imperial beach and drops of the sunset sun on a nose of a dragon so distinctly - Kapchika. And six-year-old Katya on a cactaceous glade and the two-year-old Mashka drinking water from St. Anastasia`s spring was still remembered...

the Moon rises at Meganom,
At the sea calm... to me all this is familiar for a long time
You quietly sleep.

All day with passion conquered
the Huge world.
I You covered dense air with a cover

Ring, singing lullabies, cicadas,
the Fire burns.
I the Falcon, a black bulk,
stores your dream.

the Wave at the coast splashed
I on the run
As a crumb - the daughter fell asleep

My God, how long, as recently all this was... And now Masha already surely walks on a loose footpath and any mountains to it at all. And Katya grew up at all, already absolutely the bride...

Gradually descent Kapchik brings us to the cape. We pass on it to a through grotto, looking in passing on the Imperial beach where from flow of people it is necessary to sunbathe, seemingly, standing. The through grotto is closed by an iron lattice on the lock. From - for collapses. Here so - so... Offensively, Masha was already lost in day-dreams to look at bats. But under a lattice there is a small undermining through which it is possible to get into a cave. Though task this difficult. Having a little conferred, we decide everything - not to deprive children of thrills, and we transport them inside together with Dima. Five minutes of survey - and impressions for the year ahead. Will be what to tell at school. Then we bathe in the Predatory bay. There is a lot of people, the sea littered and muddy. And not to bathe here and very much hot. And transition through mountains tired. Further on a habitual footpath we go to Shalyapin`s grotto. And here one continuous “pop-music“: bungees, towers for a diving, the whole clothes of suits for photographing. And people, people, people... One group replaces another in continuous circulation. To look at it it is sick, and nothing can be changed, and it is impossible to turn off a time ago. But is deeply in memory of the picture of absolutely uninhabited grotto, both empty track, and almost deserted sea. And if to return here in the early spring or late fall, then all this still can repeat...

does not want to go on the populous new secular embankment. We go deep into the settlement, to silent, shady street cafe. We have dinner and have a rest, children run on trays with souvenirs. But long to stay too long there is no time. Ahead - a way back. And again easy ways not for us. We make a detour of “posts“, rising to shop, then along recreation facilities, through a juniper grove by the beginning of the gorge conducting on the Imperial beach. The sunset sun softly lights the cape Kapchik and the dried-up miracle - a tree which is similar to the strict, wise guard of the New World. Legs go on a familiar and favourite mountain footpath. We overcome stone steps and a ladder from roots, the children are cooled at crevices - “refrigerators“ - and here we already at home.

At the sea - a whole gale. The sea muddy and tousled. It is terrible to bathe, it is possible to watch and admire elements only. The sky in clouds, the sun in places appears through through them, turning clouds over far to Ai - Dag into orange whipped cream. Improbable beauty! Air is densely filled by fine sea dust. And will - bondage it is necessary to accept free procedures - iodide inhalations. A supper in restless twilight and again viewing of the next series of series “About the Sea“. What series today on the account - that? The nineteenth if I am not mistaken. Cabernet is poured in circles from a stainless steel with the inscription “Expedition“, salad is cut, fragrant pilaf smokes in a kettle. The sea rustles and approaches waves the legs. And all this cacophony from pictures, sounds and smells responds in soul the pressing feeling of delight and a grief because that the series, alas, come to an end. And the next season if carries, it will be possible to look only in a year...

of Evening, at last, become warm. There is no wish to put on a jacket any more. Also it is possible, pomayavshis it is a little in tent, and understanding that all the same not to fall asleep, get out and take seat on cool stones at the water and to listen as waves rustle, and to watch how the white lunar path and the full moon is poured it is tightened by an easy haze of clouds. And then it is possible to pull together from itself clothes and to enter carefully this amazing, shining sea and to float straight to the horizon, on a lunar way. Waves will begin to embrace softly you for shoulders and to swing tenderly, both to throw and to sing lullabies. Skin will be silvered and flash in thousands of sparks as though tiny glowworms rose from sea depths and surrounded you from all directions. The fairy tale, the lunar fairy tale, stay with me a little more, I so do not want to leave... But now for the whole year it will be only in photos. And nothing can be done with it... Well, shootings of the third season are ended. Sadly. All thanks, all are free! And, maybe, there will be new actors, both new places of shootings, and a new plot, but the fourth season is simply obliged to take place! Because the audience is eager for new impressions, new adventures, new special effects. Because without these series do not represent the life any more. The fall will fly by, there will pass the winter, the spring will fly, and spotlights of the moon and sun will light the deserted beach again, and pictures will recover again. Quietly! There is a shooting! Welcome to a premiere!