Repair of wooden doors and windows
the Most typical defects appearing over time at doors is a shaking of the wooden box fixed into a wall and hinge plate loops on a box.
In the first case a box needs to be strengthened what will require a drill and a drill with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm with a pobeditovy tip that it was possible to drill not only a box, but also a wall on depth not less than 50 mm.
the Door is removed from loops, delete platbands and give to a box the correct situation. After that in its vertical whetstones drill several openings into which hammer metal or wooden, on epoxy glue, probes. Such measures will allow to record reliably a box in the necessary situation, to correct distortions and disorders.the Loosened loops strengthen
as follows: old screws unscrew, grease with glue (or inject it into nests of screws the syringe) then roll back and allow glue to harden completely. If nests are strongly broken, then it is better to move loops to new places, having chosen grooving deepenings under them as a chisel. Worn-out loops often lead to subsidence of a door, as a result the door touches a box and is not closed. It can be corrected, having put on an axis of each loop the small rings made from bent nailing or a steel wire of suitable diameter. If it is good to grease such “narashcheniye“ of the ground-off loops, then it will serve as some kind of bearing which will improve the door course.
Old filenchaty doors with a combined glued frame often crack and crack that can lead to a distortion and reduces durability. To restore such door, it is necessary to attach in places of a joint of whetstones metal corners on screws with a secret head, and it is better on “self-tapping screws“ of suitable length. Big cracks in a wooden surface of doors close up by means of the laths put on glue. After it completely will harden, the parts of a lath acting from the massif cut off. Small cracks close up filling on a tree by means of the rubber pallet, and then all surface is carefully polished by an emery paper manually or by means of the manual grinder. Similarly eliminate defects of window covers, balcony frames and other surfaces from the whole (not pressed) wood. Sometimes old doors are given new life, sheathing their front and back parties sheet DVP or even an interline interval. In the first case it is possible to paste or beat laid on panels over DVP, and then to accurately paint a door that considerably will improve its look. Paint is usually shaded along a surface, put in two - three not too thick layers, apart from priming.to
For interroom doors is suitable the majority of interior paints and enamels, and for external doors and windows it is better to use waterproof eksteryerny (front) among which is specially intended for wooden surfaces. Besides, it is necessary to consider that many paints demand a preliminary primer for receiving good result since wood can be rather friable and absorb solutions. Before painting of collected window frames and stekolchaty doors the surface of glass is covered with sheets of paper to protect from splashes. If paint everything is got on a glass surface, then it is deleted with the rags moistened in solvent. The dried-up splashes or strips can be scratched out accurately a thin edge.
When coloring wooden designs are applied, as a rule, by three main types of brushes which differ on bristle width:
- fleyts, the widest, intended for the big areas - panels of a covering, sheets DVP; the manual brush of average width is most universal, convenient to
- for painting of frames, separate whetstones, flat wide panels;
- the filenochny brush - narrow, for delicate works - suits for painting of laths, panels, operational development of joints etc.
rollers and special brushes to art decorative painting, drawing an ornament etc. They strongly differ on width, rigidity and a form of a bristle.
Certainly, when finishing not only painting, but also varnishing, an upholstery by fabric, skin, pasting by decorative films and sheet plasticity can be applied.