Rus Articles Journal

Cutlets: handwork of

do not believe what is written in culinary reference books: cutlet - not a hot dish and not a way of preparation. Cutlet is the idea of the house, a cosiness and care embodied by hands of the person

When your girl is sick

the Third day it lies in a bed with a temperature. His heart is full of unexpressed tenderness to which the feeling of own helplessness is added. What to do? To sit next, hold really by a hand and to tell how it was cheerful last night when all skated and drank mulled wine? No, instead it goes on kitchen and, having relied on intuition (never before tried!) cooks chicken cutlets - on couple. This feeling of gratitude when someone does for you such dish is familiar to you?

the Most tasty they, of course, at the grandmother, mother, the aunt and in rare instances even at the mother-in-law. At them most often cunnings like that are also spotted that it is necessary to throw already ready cutlet forcemeat exactly fifty times with scope on a table - that it became gentle and strong at the same time. Or for juiciness to put in everyone (still crude) cutlet a butter piece.

It is usually even not important

from what cutlets prepare: from meat, a bird, fish, mushrooms, pumpkin, beet, carrots, potato. The main thing - they have to be made hands, it unites them. And house cutlets for a Sunday lunch for which all family in full strength gathers. And the ancient wild boar cutlets pining in marinade from korenyev, spices, cinnamon and cherry syrup - a special delicacy in mansions, especially if the wild boar (he is a wild boar) was hit by the owner. And the elk cutlets made by the daughter-in-law of the director of a camp site on Baikal. And the Italian polpette melting in the mouth which still Fitzgerald`s heroes who were living fast on Riviera admired.


the Enemy of mankind - the cutlet automatic machine - gives them today with a speed of two thousand pieces an hour and as it is boastful advertizing reports, can do them in the form of round, oval, square, in the form of sticks and - is surprisingly similar to dog food - asterisks. But unless the serial cutlets which captivated shops, restaurants and even our own kitchens can be compared to hand made cutlets?

And cottage cheese, and gherkins

the Invention of cutlet can be equated to the invention of a wheel. In the same way as to a wheel the bicycle and the car were attached later, to cutlet several revolutionary additions were thought up too (about it below), but the idea still remains spotless in the simplicity and genius. And cook cutlet equally practically everywhere in the world - here unless the Central Asian kyufta differs in the small size and the fact that forcemeat “is surely enveloped“ around a dried cherry plum or an apricot.

So, ideally you cook forcemeat - cut with two knives a piece of kostreets or brisket or the cut fish (the cod, a silvery hake, a mackerel best of all will approach). The most tasty forcemeat as shows experience, turns out if to mix beef with pork or different types of fishes. It is possible to pass meat via the meat grinder (not less than three times) and there to put other ingredients. The majority of them is urged to make cutlets more magnificent. The most popular - the white loaf soaked in milk and mashed potatoes (with it it is necessary to cook any fish cutlets). Further - a semolina, cottage cheese (the well-known recipe of the Jewish cuisine), breadcrumbs in milk, crude potatoes, grated on a grater (for it can play apple or a vegetable marrow), cabbage, onions (it it is good to fry till golden color though put also crude), greens, garlic, gherkins and capers. As you can see, the structure of the national team is limited only to imagination. But, of course, it is impossible to go too far too: two thirds of forcemeat has to make everything - that product whose name will be born by cutlets. Egg is added to the ready forcemeat which is long kneaded by hands for “cohesion“. Then it it is quite good as it was told above, “to abandon“ and approximately for an hour to send to the refrigerator to be cooled.

I here the final rises closer and closer: from forcemeat wet hands (surely wet - every time moisten them with cold water) mold cutlets, bread them in crackers or a semolina and fry at first without cover on strong fire from one and other party, then on slow fire under a cover. Only do not peer too fixedly at a fried surface that there was no history with you, as with Canadian Fred Uen. Once on the TV he heard that owners of a casino in Florida for 28 thousand dollars bought from the local resident the dried-up toast with cheese on which Virgin Mary`s image allegedly appeared. Fred came to the local newspaper and declared that three years ago he fried fish cutlet and on the fried thoroughly party suddenly distinctly saw Jesus Christ`s face. Since then it stores cutlet in a deep freeze.

Ready cutlets can be put in a pan, to fill in with sour cream with grated cheese or some mushroom sauce, to cover with a foil and to bake in an oven. Or just to enclose a butter piece, to pour slightly - slightly water and to potomit.

of Cutlet with history

If to address history, then it will turn out that the way even to heart of the tsar lies through a stomach. Once in dank autumn evening Alexander`s carriage (it from St. Petersburg went to Moscow or on the contrary) started slipping in provincial Ostashkov, near Torzhok. The tsar was wrapped up right there in a badger plaid and taken away in the tavern, best in the city. The owner of a tavern Pozharsky was in a subconscious state: the tsar chose veal cutlets from all menu, and good meat - Pozharsky knew it - was not in all the district. On wadded legs it came to the wife, and that undertook all responsibility for deception of the tsar: made cutlets of chicken, but fried so that were similar to veal.

the dish so was pleasant to the Tsar that he ordered to award Pozharsky. And Pozharsky, raskhrabrivshis, told him that it is generally not those cutlets for which they were taken, and the wife, here she, Dashenka thought up all this. The tsar awarded also Dashenka (her portrait it is still possible to see in art gallery of Torzhok), and cutlets included later in the menu of an imperial table. Pozharsky on the roll moved to Torzhok and on the new institution hung out the inscription “Supplier Dvora of His Majesty“. In those days by its tavern there went from the capital to the capital all great people, also Pushkin passed. It - that also immortalized pozharsky cutlets in verses.

But Pozharsky did not make anything outstanding, he was just lucky. And here that was the real cutlet revolution, so this invention of cutlets on - Kiev. Which, however, passed in due time unnoticed. Just time was unsuccessful - 1912. The cutlets (the Middle Eastern concept with a butter stuffing in chicken fillet on a stone shifted in the French style) which appeared in the St. Petersburg Merchant club at first called “novomikhaylovsky“. The recipe flashed then, there until in 1947 a certain Kiev restaurateur made cutlets for high delegation. Officials were very impressed and decided to include “cutlets on - Kiev“ in the menu of “Intourist“. However, cutlets did not please foreigners: in attempt to cut them those were spat by oil on expensive shirts (the Soviet citizens somehow intuitively felt it and cutlet always at first was punctured with a fork). But it did not prevent them to fall in love with each other later - in the past, for example, to year cutlet on - Kiev thriftily settled down in a consumer basket of Great Britain.

In the biography of cutlets on each case the history will be: about the cutlets “-drag“ with sauce and seasonings brought by Elizabeth Petrovna`s cooks from France; about emigrant Chicken Kiev, the cutlet from chicken fillet in garlick oil breaded in a ball. Without speaking about classical American burgers and the French croquets. But the skillful cook makes history. Therefore in kitchens continually appear new (or well forgotten old?) modifications: the cutlet baked with boiled egg inside, as a stuffing as in “-drag“, will put fried mushrooms with cheese sauce, and even will think up “lazy cutlets“ - will bake ready forcemeat in a glass loaf pan and and will give on a table.

If to ask gastropsikholog, they for certain will tell a lot of things about importance of emergence of cutlets in a family diet, about that, as in addition of egg for the sake of “cohesion“ the deep meaning is concealed. And maybe, will even answer a question: why every time when you go on a rigid diet, in a dream cutlets with mashed potatoes begin to be?