Rus Articles Journal

Creation of harmonious image. Part II

to Read Part I

Visual illusions in a suit . Illusions of visual perception call the arising impression of distortion of the size, a form, color, proportions of objects under certain conditions of their perception. That is the optical effect forces us to be deceived: what we see does not correspond to reality.

Optical illusions studied

and used still in the ancient time. Actively were engaged in their application in modeling of clothes at the beginning of the 20th century. And all of us, making the clothes, quite often intuitively we resort to the help of visual illusions. In a suit of illusion arise generally at the expense of various combinations of forms, shaped fashion lines, drawing of fabric, color, decorative finishing.

For example, vertical lines and details (longitudinal strips and lines on clothes, a single-breasted fastener, shooters on trousers, a long scarf, a high heel etc.) slim, emphasize growth.

Horizontal lines (cross strips, seams, coquettes, pockets, finishing on a product bottom, thongs on footwear etc.), on the contrary, expand, make look fat. Division of a suit splits up a silhouette across, visually reducing growth or shortening any part of a figure.

Diagonal lines (undercuts on clothes, asymmetric cut of a mouth, a scarf through one shoulder etc.) are intermediate between vertical and horizontal, introduce dynamics in a suit, conceal asymmetry in a figure. The lines to vertical, the more illusion of symmetry are closer; the more they aspire to a horizontal, the stronger are capable to expand.

the Cage (squares) usually increases volume, and the drawing is larger, the effect is stronger.

of the Line, dispersing from the center of a figure up (a “sea“ collar, V - figurative cut of a mouth, jacket lapels, the kerchief in front tied on a small knot), expand the top part, narrowing the center, a waist.

of the Line, going from a neck up (the hair raised over temples or combed upward, a hat with the unbent fields), create illusion of higher growth and greatness.

of the Line, dispersing from the center down, expand the lower part and a waistline, reducing the top part of a figure, cover a raglan, the skirt and bell-bottoms visually narrow shoulders. If lines go from the head down (a hat with the lowered fields, a flowing hair on a parting in the middle), then it visually reduces growth.

of the Line, meeting to the center of a figure (a triangular decollete on a dress plus a wide skirt; the fastener of a jacket or a coat on one button), narrow a waist, at the same time expanding top and lower speak rapidly figures. This illusion does the woman more harmonous and sexual.

Wavy lines (drawing on fabrics, ruches, flounces) emphasize with

rotundities, body bends, but also, add volume.

Circles also visually increase volume and give to figure outlines rotundity.

the Visual illusions created in the color are capable to change

body proportions strongly. Fashion designers know well that in a black dress the figure seems more harmonously. It is connected with effect of irradiation (from armor. irradio - “I let out beams“ - the seeming increase in the sizes of candle figures on a black background in comparison with black figures of equal size on a white background): black and dark colors visually reduce volume, absorbing light whereas light, and especially warm, tone increase it.

In the suit sustained in one color or in monochrome (low-contrast) scale, the person looks Ball harmonous and higher than growth. If the suit is broken into the contrast color spots alternating light and dark, then the figure will seem lower and fuller.

of Illusion, arising when using different proportions of clothes, ideas of the actual sizes of a figure change. For example, the overestimated waist in a dress or a short jacket with a long skirt shorten the top part, thereby extending legs. Longer top part allows to correct a short torso. The proportion 50/50 where the top and lower parts of a suit are equal, is not the most harmonious as there is a revaluation of the sizes of the top part of a figure and legs seem shorter, than they are.

Can change

ideas of true volumes and proportions of our body, competently combining and combining light and dark colors, and also various lines of a cut in a suit. On it generally visual correction of a figure is also based.

Decor and drawing . Drawing, a coloring of fabric represent style, create mood and form impression about the person. The choice of drawing tells a lot of things about your identity, character and temperament.

All geometrical drawings - strips, cages and any regularly repeating elements - will organize, rhythmic order the plane.

the Strip expresses to

a certain organized beginning, desire or need to follow planned. Very wide strip often meets on a form of players of command sports (soccer, rugby). The strip is associated with frankness, honesty, validity. The narrow strip contacts rather intellectual work: employees (a striking example of the ordered activity) quite often wear suits or shirts in the narrow strip reminding the ruled form.

the Horizontal strip gives to

feeling of width, tranquility, stability. Xing - white strips are traditional in clothes of seamen and cause the line of the horizon in memory. Such drawing is used in clothes for rest, walks at will.

the Cage as well as the strip, represents the organization mowing, however, less formal and collective character. Fabrics in a cage are used in clothes for individual sports: golf, riding, tennis. The small and thin cage is usually connected with accuracy and such types of rest as game in golf, fishing. The large cage is associated with active pastime on air: hunting, tourism, rural work. Not incidentally main signs of style of a country (English“ rural“) there were plaid shirts - cowboy shirts, dresses and sundresses, covers and plaids.

the Special type of a cage - the Scotswoman. In national clothes of Scots the cage bore information on to what clan the person belongs. In a modern suit the Scotswoman is a classical example of free style with an aristocratism shade.

Curves - wavy, curved, helicoid and so forth - contrary to straight lines are the embodiment of freedom and relaxedness. They are associated with inconstancy, the movement, levity. In them there is more feminine - creative and intuitive. Similar drawings along with flower are inherent in romantic style.

Vegetable and flower motives are unusually various

- from naturalistic to stylized and fantasy. The impressions which are given rise by them are ambiguous and emotional.“ Rural“ the small floret which is evenly distributed on all surface is an image of simplicity, coordination, homeliness. Graceful stalks or buds of a bizzare shape adjust on something distinguished, refined, mysterious.

Drawing, called “peas“, is connection of freedom and orderliness. In it there is a lot of game, humour, self-irony. At the same time the larger peas, the effect which stronger had by it.

Flower and vegetable drawings are pleasant to women more. In man`s clothes they meet seldom, generally in clothes for rest. It is noticed that the women testing thirst for the earth (to agriculture, for example), prefer realistic images. The love to the stylized drawings testifies to the developed esthetic taste and figurative thinking. The drawings imitating skins of animals (a leopard, a tiger, a zebra and t. l.) remind clothes of primitive people and symbolize natural instincts, physical force, health, and sometimes and aggression of a predator. These images are filled with energy, passion, aspiration to draw attention of an opposite sex and are very popular in clothes of style sexy.

Use of symbolics - mystical, religious, esoteric signs, hieroglyphs - has the same ancient roots, as well as a suit. Put (coded) in them true meaning continues to work even if its treatment is forgotten.

So, through drawing in clothes and accessories we declare ourselves, the intentions, we show identity, sometimes at all and without thinking of it.


Choosing drawing for a suit, it is necessary to consider a number of the factors allowing to find the most harmonious solution of an image. The size, the size of drawing depend on proportions, dimensions of a body and lines a linden, i.e. it is a question from scale of a figure of the person and a decor. For example, tall persons, a dense constitution, shirokokostny or with massive features do not approach a small ornament and too thin drawing: contrasting with a figure, they only make heavier it. It is necessary to give preference to the average or large pattern occupying considerable space on fabric (for example, to big flowers or a cage), or to one but volume fragment. On the contrary, people of a graceful constitution, low or thin, with delicate features will approach drawing delicate more - small, and also with seldom located fragments. Large images will “absorb“ a figure, to dominate over it.


It is known that in everything needs a measure. Also you should not be zealous too, aspiring to an ideal, otherwise it is possible to gain a boomerang effect: all large will integrate, and all small - to split up and reduce. Present the tall stout woman dressed in a suit from a mohair in a large cage with patchpockets and big gold buttons; in addition - massive earrings, a big bag - a trunk and footwear on a thick platform. Isn`t that so, the figure looks too bulky. In this case, to look elegant, several large, bright details (drawing on a scarf, accessories) to a simple smooth dress or a monophonic suit are enough.

needs to be remembered also compatibility of various drawings. The rule of hierarchy of the main thing and minor elements in ensemble (as well as sense of proportion) dictates the following: the detail which is the acceptance, a suit dominant has to be allocated also with expressiveness of drawing in comparison with more neutral background. Example: a skirt with hardly designated vegetable motive, a blouse monophonic or with modest finishing by an embroidery and as accent - a bright elegant vest with a large flower decor. The simplest option: one thing from fabric with drawing, and all others - monophonic.


in a suit two or more various drawing, you watch that they were stood in one color scale or are close on color. If ornaments of different flowers, then they have to have similarity in a pattern, a form. Geometrical drawing is better combined with geometrical, flower - with flower or curvilinear. The cage not bad gets on with a strip if they are united by the general color scale, with a geometrical ornament and a fir-tree; images of animals or birds - with vegetable motives.

one of them has to be larger than

At connection of two or more drawings. Usually the fact that “is closer to a body“ has smaller drawing, and what is put on atop - larger.

the Correct use of a decor in clothes allows to correct visually a figure, transferring emphasis from shortcomings to advantages. For example, heavy hips can be hidden if to choose monophonic dark trousers or a skirt and to add them with more motley, colorful blouse or a scarf which will switch attention to themselves.

should not combine

three various in a form and design of drawing. A skirt in a fir-tree, a blouse in peas, a scarf with akvarelno - indistinct flowers create feeling of dissociation. The same rule concerns three identical drawings: The jacket, a shirt and a tie in a strip will cause only ripples in eyes and will destroy an image.

In general in modern fashion mt

tough rules and restrictions of a combination of drawings. The talent and sense of style allow designers to invent the most unexpected combinations, bringing a game element, a kitsch and liberation. You remember only, as all the rest - a hairdress, gait, a figure - has to correspond to the conceived image and justify it.