Rus Articles Journal

Tramps of the South. Part II

to Read Part I


of Ups and downs of wild life

our present daily routine fine differed from habitual. As usual there takes place rest in our South of most of health-resort visitors with children? Rise of hours in 8, preparation of a breakfast, a breakfast, collecting on the sea, transition to the beach of 10 - 20 minutes, and, at last, you by the sea. How many there accumulated? 9 - 30? You are the real sprinters! And people - that on the beach - not to force the way, and - not to find the place for laying, and the sun - that already burns...

you Sit, you find among a set of childish tops in the sea the, harmful, but native top. You listen to the details of someone`s intimate life reaching on the right, at the left. You become stupid from the cries in a loud-hailer inviting something to visit. And, at last, you spend and you spend money for baklava, nutlets, trinkets and other, absolutely unnecessary.“ You have a rest“, generally, you “relax“...

of Hours in 11 - 12 you go back along the same route. In the second half of day when the heat - again transition to the sea slightly falls down. Again the same crowd of the vacationers, loud sellers and different companions who are eager to make happy you with unostentatious service...

Is not present

, we had everything differently. Rise at 6 o`clock. Actually, it would be possible and to have a sleep still and the sun does not give. As pripecht the rays a side of tent - necessarily you will wake up. First of all, even plainly without having woken up - in the sea. As water early in the morning as it softly lights its waking-up sun is transparent. You come into water in an environment of hundreds of small small fishes who are scattered by the scared splashes in different directions, but right there come back. And you derive pleasure from it indescribable!

of Nakupavshis, having admired sunrise, having passed on damp sand and having finally woken up, you begin to be engaged in any household affairs slowly. When children wake up what they do first of all? Correctly, rush in the sea. And what they do so far, parents make a breakfast? Lap in the sea! And only when on a table plates with hot milk porridge appear, they climb up the hill and flop at a table, even without being wiped.

Gradually getting used to a wild way of life, I found in it more and more advantages. And the fact that children breathed sea air 24 hours a day the whole day bathed, and we could go about the own business, glancing at them out of the corner of the eye from the hill, was, probably, the most important advantage. And it is not necessary to go anywhere, at any time - here it, the sea!

Morning of the second day was devoted to improvement of camp and cleaning of the territory as sand by the sea was literally filled up with plastic, glass and other attributes of an outdoor recreation of a certain layer of locals. Collected all this stuff on a hundred-meter site of the beach, took down far away from camp and burned. Men built a wash basin from the turned 5 liter bottle meanwhile and dug out a toilet.

Oh, the toilet is a separate history! What is a self-made toilet in the steppe? A hole, four sticks and the opaque oilcloth closing a construction from three parties. The fourth party is open for all winds and looks to the steppe. It is a door. Welcome!

Well, apparently, that here special? Quite so we also thought in the first day of existence of this institution. But next day, we were waited by an unprecedented show. The hole almost to top was filled... bugs - earth-boring dung beetles. These are such brilliant black bugs of the impressive sizes which zealously were engaged in the commonplace - rolled huge spheres you understand from what.

At first earth-boring dung beetles plunged us into a condition of a little shock. But gradually we ceased to pay attention and to them. And younger children were delighted simply and ran every morning to have a look, bugs grew up or not. Generally, such natural dry closet turned out. One word: nature... our mother...

Lack of the refrigerator introduces the amendments in life. Therefore it was necessary to prepare on once and to go behind products daily. Every morning brought a 3-liter jar of milk and egg from the village. To children for breakfast - milk porridge, the adult - fried eggs with tomatoes and coffee. It is exciting to drink coffee, sitting over the sea and to watch the frolicing dolphins!

in the Evenings fried meat on a fire or cooked field porridge with stewed meat, cut vegetable salad. While adults pottered with preparation of meat, the children arranged dances near the sea in pink light of the retiring sun. On sand it is so wonderful to somersault, learn to stand on hands, to do a somersault and a wheel...

the children who Got hungry in the fresh air swept away a dinner, and then also we already took seat slowly to eat, drink the wine cooled in the sea, to admire the moon rising over the sea. And for a long time in the condensed darkness the adult and children`s laughter hangs over the steppe... Gradually day sounds are replaced night, the steppe does not sleep: a ring of grasshoppers, rustle in a high grass from someone`s hasty paws, the muffled peep, a rustle of wings of a night bird, and still a set of other mixed sounds which surround you from all directions...

did not do also without unpleasant incident. For the third night, having given in to illusion of a full bezlyudnost, and, so safety, we were too lazy to hide everything in tents and cars, having left tables, chairs, ware and which - what things on the street. At night the woken-up husband looked out of tent and saw some shadow squating and rummaging in a ware pile in total darkness. The shadow reacted to a hail instantly: swelled up and was thrown from the hill down.

the Husband jumped out of tent, continuing to cry out some threats, it seems “here you still will get to me“, examined the scene with a small lamp and did not notice anything special. It seemed that all things on the place. Only in the morning we found loss: two couples of flippers, a mask and a tube, an old cover, a plastic basket for picnics with a strategic stock of products in the form of raw smoked sausage, canned food and spices, and also a plate with the pieces of bread and vegetables which remained after a dinner.

It was unpleasant to

. And business even not in the loss though, of course, it was a pity for flippers. The feeling of safety was irrevocably lost. But, if to look at everything philosophically, it was even possible to find the positive moments in it. It was the lesson number two: if you stand with tent in the wild place, all things for the night need to be hidden. Do not lose we small, another time, could pay with big. That night near tent there was a big bag with things. Probably, it was just not noticed...

Bathing with dolphins

It became the real event. And not only for children, and and for adults. In the morning when the children lapped in the sea, two dolphins came. At first the captivated little girls, with bated breath, stood in water at the coast, watching games and jumps of nice creations, and then moved to them towards.

From the hill where I stood with a chamber in hands, this show looked just tremendous. Dolphins, obviously pursuing a school of fish, approached the coast. They just were not located on shoal in water, sliding a belly on a bottom and cutting water a black fin. In the transparent sea their fast graceful bodies were visible, clearly, and at the bottom black shadows distinctly appeared.

In ten meters from little swimmers, dolphins arranged the real show. They swam on a back, jumped out of water after huge big fishes, launched fountains and lashed on water. Began to watch it from outside above our forces, and all of us rushed in the sea too. And dolphins, seemingly, decided to play. They admitted the audience almost closely, jumping out of water in three meters from us, and then sailed that in a second again to return for a magnificent jump. But closely did not allow to approach all-.

None of us never saw dolphins in the sea so close. And this that show which imprints in memory forever. Perhaps, dolphin therapy - really effective piece. We literally were influenced by that positive energy which proceeds from them.

After this case dolphins came every day. It is hard to say whether there were it those dolphins, or some other animals. But began to wait for them at children one of hobbies. However, so close to themselves they did not admit us any more, but the coast approached almost closely and steadily pleased with the magnificent representation. Mashka even thought up to herself a chant - a chant - a pykhtelka: “I - I - I! Dolphins - Cars friends!“

In the last day on Tarkhankuta “Cars friends“ came before our departure when all things were already laid. What was it? Really came to say goodbye?

So, the first three days the weather stood just remarkable: clear sky, sea warm, nights not stuffy. But, having shown us what is a heat in the steppe, the nature decided not to be limited and show these the temper, having presented lessons number three and four.

As became Gromovo Wind

Evening was surprisingly clear and warm, but something unimaginable began at night. We woke up from feeling that here - here will tear off tent from the earth and, like Ellie`s lodge, Zhevunov, then in the sea - without fail will carry away if not to the country. Wind howled and tore tent, racks creaked, appear, that fabric will not sustain the next rush and will burst on seams. Fortunately, children slept a deep dream. They in general differed in it. Otherwise, having woken up, probably, could be frightened outright.

Instead of taking emergency measures on fight against elements, there was a strong wish to get into a sleeping bag with the head and never from there to get out. Not to hear these mad rushes that heart did not fade with fear... But it was necessary to be chosen in blackness of the night tightened by clouds, to drive in additional pegs, to pull ropes, to strengthen tents.

I it: even if you have a rest in such place where winds are extremely rare, and Tarkhankut unambiguously does not belong to such places, the tent needs to be strengthened as if storm warning is declared and the gale-force wind is expected.


It was slept to us that night badly. And I, listening as on wind our unfortunate striped canopy dreadfully claps and rages, all thought: and whether you should not remove it? It turned out that it was worth removing it. And it was the fourth lesson: everything that possesses windage, for the period of wind it is necessary to fix very strongly, and, even better, to clean.

B five of morning when I got out in this world, instead of one of metal rings in an awning the shabby hole gaped, and two strong aluminum racks of a canopy were broken in half. The others here - here were waited by the same fate. Strong... Houses they to us seemed strong...

Had to awake with

urgently men and to rescue what else remained from a canopy. To curtail a sail of 3x3 in size on a gale-force wind it was a difficult task. It was necessary to make every effort to hold it in hands. Also it was simply not clear how still did not carry away it in the sea... Generally, strong got to us that night.

Two days strong wind blew. The sea stormed, water became cold. Though, by the sea wind was far more silent, than in camp on the hill, it all the same very much tired. It was simply impossible to eat in the open air. Instantly blew off any ware from a table and the table constantly overturned. It was necessary to get over in a corridor of tent of friends and is there.

Having been tired of constant wind and the cold sea, decided to go on the lake Donuzlav. Last year we quite often there were... It was terrible to look at Donuzlav. Wind one for another drove fragmentary waves, water was black and muddy. Then we left the car on the route, and, having passed through a tongue of sand, left to the sea. But wind was and here, it was everywhere!

But, if arrived, decided to bathe. Especially as place this absolutely wild and very beautiful. We in its last year looked after. The sea here some especially blue, sand white, and on sand - a scattering of various cockleshells. Dima with Masha first of all went to frighten I will melt the seagulls who had a rest ashore, and we - to swim in the windy sea. On the way back, while Dima cut firewood for an evening shish kebab, we admired pack of swans on Donuzlava.

For the eighth day of the parking on Tarkhankuta, it was decided to rename Gromovo into Vetrovo. Having been tired of constant wind which did not abate even in the evening, we decided to move to some other place, more quietly. Though there was no wish to leave, oh, from here as there was no wish. Such wild nature and a bezlyudnost in other place will not be any more.

three points were on the agenda: Cheerful, Sea, Privetny. To tell the truth, gathering for rest, we planned to live in tents only a week, and for the remained ten days to remove housing. But after such free life to move to the house no desire was absolute. To connect itself by some conventions? No, it not for us...

Since morning began to pack things, to roll up tents. The camera on a support - and the last farewell photo against this matchless blue sea. Coins in water, sentimental sighs, an air-kiss to dolphins - and at way.


Eh, are expensive...


On the suburb of Yevpatoria happened what, in principle, can happen to any motorist during long travel. We broke. Anything especially terrible, but as at the wrong time... At a full speed the machine as though stumbled, moved, became and was not started any more. Occurred here that: jammed a pomp which in turn tore an engine belt. At all gravity of a situation, we, certainly, were lucky: it happened not in the naked steppe and not on the route, to HUNDRED there were only 30 meters, and the shop and the dining room were observed nearby.

generally, we “flew“ on repair of the engine. But also here everything managed not so tragicly. Not only that on it, absolutely casual, one of tens HUNDRED Yevpatoria the remarkable master who made work qualitatively and all in a half a day, so got to us also repair managed in rather small sum. And easily could “tear off“ much more: the resort everything is and we had a desperate situation.

not to toil near a workshop, Oleg brought Natasha and all children to the sea, and itself returned to give us moral support. However it was necessary to solve something with spending the night. To go to the unfamiliar place at this time of night it was represented by doubtful pleasure. An exit was found following: to spend the night in Simferopol in the empty apartment of friends - harkovchan.

Eh, mobile communication! As do not abuse a civilization, there are in it, certainly, also positive sides... In a few minutes contacted friends, learned the address, agreed about keys. However, friends long complained that the apartment year uninhabited, and there, probably, dust and a web. But at that moment to us already was all the same. Eh, also everything should have happened on the eve of anniversary of our wedding. 15 years - all - not a joke. It was supposed to celebrate memorably. Yes, more memorable does not happen...

When in the eighth o`clock in the evening the car still was not ready

, solved so: Oleg with Natasha and children will go to Simferopol, will settle there, will put children to bed, and we will approach as soon as everything is finished. But, as it appeared, everything only began...

Having paid off with

the master, having with relief sighed and having driven off from HUNDRED 10 meters, we heard some suspicious, scratching sound. It turned out that the left back wheel literally “left“ under the car. To our happiness the master still was on the place. At survey it turned out that from three screws fixing a beam to a body only one survived... it is easy to p to present our state to

. Especially, when vivid imagination began to draw the picture of the coming-off wheel on the route in full operation. And breakage of the engine appeared absolutely in other light: there is no it, do not stop we here what would be? And rose - that as is successful... Just some mysticism.

Of course, all these thoughts were caused by fatigue and a nerve strain. And, most likely, nothing terrible would occur: wheels so just do not come off. But at that moment so it did not seem to me.

an hour More the master was taken by

from an unfortunate mashother, put a wheel into place, but could not fix in any way. Welding was necessary and where to take it in the tenth o`clock in the evening? The verdict was such: “I to you do not allow to drive to Simferopol such car. Happen what at night on the route what you will do? Spend the night in Yevpatoria, you cook the car in the morning, and then go“. But it seemed above our forces: children in other city, in others apartment, without things, we need to look for somewhere the place for spending the night too... Generally, having collected the remains of forces and nerves in a fist, we decide everything - to go about Simferopol.

the Dark, gloomy route, speed 40, the main thing - sharply not to brake less holes. But how not to brake here when beyond Yevpatoria - continuous railway crossings. And each jump of the car responded in heart a sad echo. Crept by the aquapark which stood for the night. Only 2 days ago we rode from mad hills here, and Mashka lapped in a paddling pool, wrinkling a suntanned nose:“ I do not like these your hills. Cold and water so splashes...“ And it seems that there was it in antecedents. Too the big density of events had today.

To Simferopol drove at half past ten, for a minute turned to friends - to take simferopolets from them a map of the city, to agree about repair of the car and to look on three peacefully sleeping crumbs. With the card the necessary address was found quickly enough. The house appeared on other end of the city, and at night without card we would look for it long. It also happened to friends who traveled about across Simferopol more than an hour. To our arrival children already slept like the dead, and friends in kitchen drank beer. But we that late evening much more, than beer, were excited by thought that all most heartrending experiences behind.

Merrily Cheerful

a Half of the next day left on repair of the car and any household efforts. And after a lunch we at last moved forward towards the coast. Slipped the Pike perch, reached to Cheerful, and further 4 more km to the sea on the most beautiful road. The place was pleasant to us at once and unconditionally. Also there was no wish to go any more anywhere.

the Kutlaksky bay was good

in every respect: picturesque, spacious, with big beaches. Guard - Both on the one hand and the cape Ai - Foka with another gave it a cosiness and completeness. A half of beaches was occupied by vacationers from not numerous recreation facilities and children`s camp, the second part is taken officially away under a tent camping. However, it was possible to call it a camping with a big stretch. But after Tarkhankut to us not to get used.

the Place was found at once, the benefit population density of the tent town at that time was small. Installation of camp took not enough time, some fitness was already felt. The sun shone, the sea rolled warm tender waves, children already sat in water. And again tension of previous day began to fall down, being replaced by feeling that today we have all - a holiday, devil take it!.

in the Evening of a fir-tree meat, fried on a fire, washed down it with massandrovsky cahors wine, listened to wishes of “all“ and “even more“, and “that to silver and gold“, and thought, probably, about same: yes where we the friend without friends, and without the favourite Crimea, of course.

having Already managed to have a rest on Tarkhankuta from people, in Cheerful presence of neighbors did not strain us, and amused more likely. For example, neighbors on the right. They arrived from Moscow: father, mother and three sons. Two boys were already quite the age of reason, the 9 - 10, third peanut on the age of reason did not pull a weather of years because only - only learned to go. They lived in the old faded tarpaulin tent with aluminum sticks - racks. Also there was it such small that the father and the eldest son had to sleep in the car.

Should tell

that to watch them it was cheerful. The kid every minute investigated the world hands, teeth and knees on taste and durability, and his elder brothers spent leisure-time for... squats. This is the father thus them punished for the slightest offenses. Punishment began with 20 squats, and steadily increased to 40 and more at the slightest altercations. And over all beach rhetorical fatherly questions were carried: “Yes what is it! Why all have children as children, and only I have two fools?!“ But their mother was surprisingly quiet and not bustling. We decided that, probably, from unwillingness to run into squats and secretly waited for it when she all - is guilty...

to Read to

Part III