Rus Articles Journal

Tramps of the South. Part I

U me from the house draft,
I do not love rest.
Let call me the tramp,
What to do, I - such...
(from to / f “Rasmus is the tramp“)

is not enough

of What for us, modern terrestrial inhabitants? It would seem, we have everything: houses are reliable, hot water, a bed convenient. Turned a ring - and extracted fire. Opened the refrigerator - and extracted cold beer... And boxes clever surround us - humour: stiralka, microwave, TV, DVD, computers supermodern. But suddenly there comes the moment when from all this it becomes insufferably sad. When there is a wish to throw something heavier in the computer monitor, and at night the sea even more often dreams. The sea blue and transparent, not defiled by boats and hydrocycles. Both the beach desert, and the star sky, and a fantastic lunar path, and the pacifying noise of waves...

Once it happened also to us. Also it became clear that the habitual algorithm of rest needs to be changed because the soul and a body want something bigger: it is more than sea, the sun, loneliness... FEELINGS and ADVENTURES! Then that was also decided to embody, at last, long dream and to go to the Crimea savages not formal, but most that on is, the presents: with tents and a full separation from the grown hateful civilization benefits. Running forward, I will tell that rest was successful wonderfully well. There were enough both adventures, and feelings with interest...

Paradise Lost

To a huge regret, in the Crimea remained not much good places where it would be possible to have a rest with tent. The civilization comes... And there is a wish for both the clean sea, and the nature beautiful and what it is less people. Actually, for the sake of it also you agree to offer habitual comfort.

Long considering the place of the forthcoming rest, stopped on Batiliman. Here where on truth both the sea, and the nature... Information was collected from all possible sources and there was only it all inconsistent and poor. According to one data to find the good place in Laspi did not make work, on others - was business almost impossible. Having discussed a situation with friends, decided not to stuff themselves the head and not to create difficulties in advance, and to understand on the ground and to resolve issues in process of their receipt.

So, started at 2 o`clock in the morning on June 28 by two cars: we with the husband and daughters Katya (14 years) and Masha (5 years) both friends Oleg and Natasha with the daughter Polina (8 years) and the niece Ania (13 years).

... It was not succeeded to sleep night the day before practically. Hoping to have a rest before the road, decided not to wait even for the ends of a football match Ukraine - Switzerland. But all the same did not sleep, turned, worried and, eventually, turned on the TV, having got on the last penalties. But also after that to fall asleep it did not turn out. Till five in the morning enthusiastic fans shouted and blew under windows, the pyrotechnics rattled, signaled horns of cars, and over streets the cries strengthened by megaphones were carried: “Ukraine - the champion!!!“ Naturally, we were glad too. But as all this at the wrong time...


However, it is expensive, despite two almost sleepless nights, flew easily and smoothly. One small halt with the breakfast covered directly on a car cowl, lips, blue from a roadside mulberry, hands and undershirts of children, traditional purchase of dried bull-calves on Chongar - and we in the favourite Crimea. Further - the most beautiful road to Sevastopol, the fancy, being buried in verdure rocks, pass with church, serpantinovy descent to the sea...

Batiliman met us by the scorching heat, a ring of cicadas, tart juniper aroma, rocks unapproachable by sight which are going down almost to the coast, tiny bays and the amazing azure sea. But, at the same time, there was no silence and a bezlyudnost which usually are associated with reserves at all: on narrow roads minibuses and even buses scurried about, crowds of vacationers went.

On idle recreation facility “Taurida“ we found the forester who announced to us rest conditions: 15 hryvnias a day for the parking of the car and 8 hryvnias from the person, including children. For this money we will be supplied with water at the rate of the 3rd liter a day on the person behind which it is necessary to go.

A little dumbfounded by the prices of “wild“ rest, we go to look for the space for tents. Absolutely near the parking, near the beach of “Taurida“, on small “shelves“ over the sea tiny palatochka pritulitsya. Looking at all this, we understand that here to us not to take place in any way. And if we still as - nibud push our four-seater tent, then friends from the kempingovy 4,5x2,5 m here just will not be developed. And still there is a wish also a canopy from the sun to put...

Being dripping with

with sweat and with envy glancing from above at plashy people in the sea, we go along the coast deep into of a bay. On the way we meet numerous stationary tent camp where places in tents for a round sum surrender. Speak, few years ago here it was had a rest without problems. But now all a little - malsk the convenient earth is leased, and unorganized autotourists have only places in the depth of a bay to which to jump from the car on the mountains of minutes 20 - 30...


to me madly liked this sea. It seems that from twenty-meter height it is possible to consider each stone at the bottom. I even am ready to go every day on the mountains behind water, and even itself to go behind products to Sevastopol, if only to remain here, here...

But should be the realist. Rest in Laspi is similar to autonomous swimming, and we were not ready to it. In total - counted that shops will be where - nibud within reasonable reach, and cars can be parked near tents. Eventually, having lost more than 3 hours of precious time, we decide everything - to look for other place for a haven. Eh, farewell, dream... But, perhaps, it is only an occasion sometime again here to return.

Let`s get drunk, and that getting so hungry that there is no place to spend the night...

in recent years it became some mystical tradition: we are going to have a rest in one place, and we appear absolutely in another. Also this year did not become an exception. Hours showed 4 hours, the fatigue began to affect, and the place of future rest still was not chosen. An exit was one: to find a temporary haven where it is possible to put tents, to spend the night, and in the morning, with a fresh mind to settle a situation.

Judging by the card, the next camping was in Lyubimovke near Sevastopol. There we also went. But, it turned out that in Lyubimovke definitely there is no place to stop with the tent. The camping is meant as lodges in which the housing is leased. Further we stopped by in Kacha, then in Andreevka. But everywhere there was all same: the broken roads, narrow sandy beaches, the muddy sea and the sea of people. And any haven for poor, tired autotourists. But, it is necessary to tell that we did not despair at all and did not despond. And even Masyanya behaved pretty well. Still, in five years - the fifth trip to the Crimea by car! Good training!

To a half of the seventh evening I was already ready to spend the night anywhere though in Andreevka, in the littered pine landing near the beach. But all - decided to try happiness once more, having left to the sea through the settlement under the name Angular. Especially as on the card there was a camping badge here. Winding on the terrifying roads and looking for departure to the sea, we flew a back in a hole, having rumbled all around. I ask to pay attention to this inconspicuous episode because further it will have the logical continuation.

Who looks for

, that will always find. At last, it was lucky also us. No camping in Angular appeared. But the worthy space for tents was found in a distance from the crowded beach: directly over the sea, on the small trampled-down platform. Judging by campfires, it was the favourite place of Sunday rest of local natives. But we who were tired bodies and souls so wanted rest that the place it seemed painted in pink tone. Or perhaps it and the truth was pink from beams of the sunset sun...

Children immediately slid from the hill down, and in a moment enthusiastic cries and splash reached from there. It seems that the road not especially tired them... And we before undertaking tents, gulped beer from a two-liter bottle, passing round it until tension did not begin to release slowly, being replaced by blissful heat and feeling that life is fine contrary to everything...

of Tent was put when the sun already rolled down for the hill. Then sat at a table and had supper, eating up road supplies, drinking beer already slowly. And in the sky the first stars were lit, both the border between water and the sky became more indistinct. Children sat in water to the darkness and all could not believe in any way that here it, the sea. And the sea was beautiful, not so typical for the western coast. Pure and transparent, with picturesque stones and seaweed at the bottom.

We went to bathe when absolutely darkened not to burden itself with excess clothes. In the head there was a noise from beer which is repeatedly strengthened by fatigue, and the sea so tenderly embraced and shook that covered intolerable desire to close eyes and to fall asleep directly on these pacifying waves. Excellent end of such long and difficult day...


Despite fatigue, it was slept badly. It was rigid and stuffy. Probably, it is natural. Not every day it is necessary to sleep in tent. But morning was solar, the sea quiet, and a spirit quite fighting. It turned out in the morning that the place where we stopped - it is vicinities of the cape Lukull, and they are the protected “hydrological nature sanctuary“. Reported cheerful green plates about it. Well we got up... That is why this cape was so favourably allocated against a sad surrounding landscape! Well, unlike locals, a fire we burned down nothing and did not reserve garbage...

in a stock was many

of Time therefore did not begin to hurry especially. Were redeemed, made sandwiches and zakipyatil on the gas stove water for coffee. After a breakfast began to solve, where to move further. Also it turned out that except Tarkhankut, actually, to go more and there is no place. Decided to visit Gromovo where we had a rest last year. Bye. And there it will be visible. Gathered, packed, went...

“Look in a window, do not look, and everything is uniform - the steppe...“

I familiar steppe landscapes reached for a window as though both did not leave anywhere, and was not behind shoulders of the whole year full of pleasures and chagrin, take-off and failures... Passed lengthways Donuzlava, slipped Gromovo, waved with a hand to house gate where lived last year. Two more kilometers in clubs of dust on a dirt road, among poppies and fragrant steppe raznotravya, and here it, the sea which more beautiful and it is difficult to find. And around - the deserted steppe, only on the neighboring hill, meters in 200 looms the car and tent...

the Choice did not take the place a lot of time. An equal site on the low hill overlooking the sea, convenient rather sloping descent to the sandy beach and the small purest sea. What to dream of, having a rest with children? We approach edge, we admire the sea, we look under legs and we notice in a grass... scolopendra.

It is such an unpleasant look a centipede, centimeters 10 in length. And all nothing and this creature has poisonous legs. Also it will go hard with that “lucky“ who will take in head to sleep on the way of its following. Of course, I prepared for a meeting with scolopendras, karakurta and other dangerous Crimean creatures, realizing that life in tent much increases chance with them to be crossed. But what then, and in broad daylight...

All - the scolopendra - quite rare being and, mostly, night. Earlier I met her all once, in the spring in the foothills of Alushta. But, probably, this meeting in the first day of rest was extremely useful. I did not need to convince children any more that tents have to be always closed. Our Katya who in panic is afraid of spiders and other arthropods watched it zealously.

Against the scolopendra, various grasshoppers, a huge locust, of the size of a palm, and green palochkoobrazny mantises looked real angels. Younger children like to them gentle love at once and while we pulled out prickles and cleared away the space for camp, with delight caught insects and put in bank.

In general, the person - a surprising being. As quickly he gets used to everything! Including to insects. The first days they strain: flies, ants, wasps, locust, midges. Day comes to the third understanding that it is THEIR house, and you here only the guest. And... you cease to notice all this creeping, jumping, flying. Happened, you lie in a grass on a rug you read the book, and then suddenly you find out that on the right and to the left of you in the earth gape holes - lodges ant hills, and scurry about backwards - forward their fussy residents. And you did not even notice it. And that is surprising, they are busy with the business too and do not notice you, and do not disturb, and even on you do not creep...

Life is life

of Tent put entrances to each other, between them arranged a canopy. Under a canopy little tables and chairs were sheltered. Life in camp began to flow slowly, presenting daily lessons and giving the chance to make small discoveries. For the third night it appeared, as in tent it is possible to sleep, without waking up, till the morning. And, generally, it is quite convenient.

it Turned out p that a fresh shower - absolutely optional accessory of rest by the sea. This opening became for me the real sensation, in the heads of the majority of us the thought strongly took roots that sea salt needs to be washed away by all means. I assure you that it can be not washed away. Besides, it does not cause any inconveniences.

it Turned out p that it is possible to bathe and wash the dishes directly in the sea. However, soap in hard sea water does not form lather, but shampoo and shower gel perfectly foam. It turned out that in cold sea water the clothes not only well wash off, but also has no white stains from salt.

it Turned out p that in sea water it is possible to cook safely eggs and potato in a uniform, and potato leaves unusually tasty. Surprised how it is not enough, it appears, clothes it is necessary for the person. And even that minimum of things which we took with ourselves could be reduced safely in a half.

Coming off habitual life and the usual benefits, especially sharply you begin to understand what actually matters and that - only illusion. There is some kind of revaluation of values. The third day of the parking on Tarkhankuta was given especially hot, having presented us the first lesson: drinking water does not happen much. All its stocks somehow too quickly disappeared. There was not enough a warm and opposite mineral water, and children began to howl quietly: “To drink!.“

urgent and unplanned departure in shop Was necessary to do

. A trip around the steppe in the blaze of the sun - pleasure doubtful, only increased thirst. And when, from the heated heat we rushed into the cool, conditioned shop, sellers made the exact diagnosis at once: “You, probably, by the sea stopped?“

They laughed, looking as we with wild eyes rushed about from a counter to a counter, enthusiastically crying out: “Water! Beer! Ice cream!“ Then shipped to us all this cold good which, was taken, of course, much. To understand how delightful ice beer is, it is possible only having learned what is a heat and thirst in the steppe. And as other requirements and desires grow dim before it. It seems that for this drink would give everything...

But the biggest discovery of star steel for me. No, it is not those stars which you see every day in the sky from a window of the apartment, and even not that so blow the mind at summer night in the village. So it turned out that I never happened to spend the night earlier in the steppe. And only now I understood sense of words of an old bard song:

In the night steppe of neither paths, nor roads,
Only the wind which ran wild a rush.
Earth dashed away directly from - under legs, Us in the August sky having forgotten

the Sky was not August, but quite July. But, getting out at night of tent, suddenly you get to other, absolutely fantastic world. “Zemlya dashed away directly from - under legs“. As it is right! When there is no around habitual city flare from buildings, in any case a flare - and there are no buildings too, it turns out that stars are visible in all sky to the horizon in what party look. There is no earth, there is only a huge, low dome, with such bright stars that it seems, each smallest tochechka on the Milky Way is visible, and it is possible to reach the sky a hand.

the darkness Ringing cicadas, splash of waves, flaws and stars, stars everywhere - over the sea, over the steppe, over you. Also it seems that except stars anything else does not exist and if to look at all this unreal representation longer, it is possible just to go crazy, not to sustain such infinite magnificence. Also the indescribable pleasure mixed with primitive, bodily fear fills you. And one part wants to watch you at the sky infinitely, and another drags quicker to get into tent. But unless after it you will fall asleep?“ We not from breed of the poor creatures who absolutely weaned in the cities from stars... “I so thought earlier. And actually - weaned also as. But to get used again never late.

to Read to

Part II