To return to Georgia In the Soviet years the resorts of Adjara nearly two million vacationers, now a trip there for the Russian - the true exotic could take
for a season. The correspondent of “SP“ Egor Gronsky flew and was convinced that legendary Georgian hospitality from cooling of the interstate relations did not disappear. And the Georgian wine which disappeared at us in general incredibly tasty - it happens to forbidden fruits
it is possible to go To Batumi at least behind smells. They imprint in subconsciousness, emerging every time together with memories of Adjara. The main cocktail - sea wind in combination with aromas of pine pitch and a magnolia. The main vegetation of the Seaside park which stretched for five kilometers along the Batumi coast gives marvelous additives. Here the baker directly at you does by the huge hands the Adzharian khachapuri: the boat with the melted cheese into which it breaks crude egg. I catch myself on thought: in Moscow khachapuris so do not smell. And such as in Batumi, I did not meet a coffee smell. It is ground here in dust, on east manners, and drunk everywhere. Not to mention aromas of wine: in the light of the known political events for the Russian tourist the special incentive appeared to go to Georgia - to drink “Akhasheni“ and “Tsinandali“ and then to strut about before friends - a pier, saws yes did not get poisoned.
Main why it is worth going as it is banal, - behind that Georgian hospitality which image became part of the Russian culture. Where at a table with plentiful food you will be called “long loaf“ and to admire with compound toasts?
Here still remember Russian. And investments, at last, went to tourist infrastructure which, appear, was preserved from Soviet period. >
it is the most convenient to p to Reach Batumi by plane. The board from Domodedovo sits down under Kutaisi, in Kopitnari`s airfield, in 130 kilometers from an administrative center of Adjara. Inconvenience this temporary - the Turkish consortium TAV - Urban Georgia LLC invested in reconstruction of the Batumi airport $28,5 million
Already to November, the investor promises, Batumi will be able to accept planes, reconstruction to spring of the next year, with construction of the passenger terminal will be complete.
Now for passengers the free bus from Kopitnari to Batumi plies. After stone Moscow the trip around the prosperous country where you on departure from the airport are met by the index with the name of the settlement of Vazisubani, is more memorable on a wine label, looks something like excursion.
can reach Batumi also by the sea. The ticket for the Mikhail Svetlov motor ship plying between Sochi and the capital of Adjara (you remember “A diamond hand“?) costs 1,5 thousand rubles there is it 12 hours. You will save both time, and money if you go to a way on “rocket“. The way “Comets - 51“ to Batumi takes six hours, the ticket costs 700 rub. Vessels go near the coast, and at a clear weather snow tops of Greater Caucasus are visible. Travel in itself, of course, fascinating, however even at the slightest nervousness of the sea most of overland citizens feel discomfort if they did not stock up with motion sickness pills. The Batumi beach was littered two years ago. The new city authorities found a way out the idle time which is given a dry run, probably, in all world resorts: cheap leased the coastline for five years.
Along the coast accurate bungalows appeared at once. The garbage almost disappeared, but it is universal - plank beds, air mattresses and umbrellas for rent. Everything costs not much: a plank bed of 2 lari (about 30 rub, about the Georgian currency see the reference on p. 45).Harbour on the bank of which costs Batumi in the ancient time Greeks and called
“batius the estuary“ (“deep harbor“). In it always the big ships. In port surely there is on an anchor a huge tanker with the Baku oil. In one and a half kilometers from the coast on raid some more the nalivnik expecting the turn. At night they are brightly lit. At the same time any oil spots not considerably: water in “deep harbor“ pure. At least, a mullet, the jack mackerel and the red mullet at fishermen on a pier peck constantly. Catch also on a habitual worm in a midland of Russia, and on meat of a mussel which is got, having dived near the same piers - their underwater part overgrew clams. Usual fishing, men on a pier say, are a kilogram three fishes. From a pier, however, it is impossible to catch the real delicacy of these places - the Black Sea flounder (which is tasting like rather an a sturgeon) which time in three to thickness oceanic, on sale in the Moscow shops. The flounder is got in the high sea by small fishing vessels to bring a fresh catch to coastal small restaurants.
Relative minus of the Black Sea in the water area the same Batumi, as on the Sochi coast: the beach - large pebble. Those who do not like to go on it prefer to leave for city boundaries on the North to Cape Verde and on the South to the river Chorokhi: there stones become shallow up to beads.
About Cape Verde and the river Chorokhi for $35 diving can be trained and to make immersion with the instructor. Near Cape Verde recently on 12 - meter depth found an acropolis: now it is cleared of a sand layer that already by the next season it became a bait for divers.eight can employ
For $100 an hour in the Batumi port - the ten-local yacht and to swim in the high sea.Special good luck - if approaches
the coast one of symbols of Batumi - pack Black Sea afalin. Dolphins sometimes frolic all meters in fifty from a shore.
But Batumi is not only the sea. By the next season in the city the aquapark will be open, reconstruction of a dolphinarium well-known once is complete, improvement of the Botanical garden - a tree nursery with more than five thousand species of plants is carried out.
to Old Batumi about 150 years. Houses generally - two - three-storyed, with cozy court yard. Streets are narrow, windows through the road are often connected among themselves by grapevines.Honor
in each house - little shop or cafe. Low little tables behind which old men play chess and a backgammon stand on sidewalks.by
decoratively illuminated facades of almost all houses at Dark southern night. But the most majestic show of night Batumi - the musical fountain. It is located on the island in the middle of the fresh lake that all in one hundred meters from the sea coast. Obeying music (it can be both the national Adzharian song, and Led Zeppelin composition), streams of water change the direction and height. Depending on a tonality also illumination changes. Especially takes the breath away when hit into a culmination point of composition of a stream on 50 meters up.by
of Batumi it is constructed on the Roman planning - divided into rectangular quarters. Considering that numbering of houses on all streets begins from the sea, to get lost here, especially after Moscow, difficult. But after all especially pleases that any passerby willingly will prompt you in Russian the road though he right there will grumble a little that “our language forgets youth“. >
It is very convenient to p to move across Adjara by a taxi. Across Batumi it is better to order the car with the counter (1 km - 0,8 lari): from seaport to the grocery market “will crack“ only 1,5 lari. The private trader for such money will not go, the taxi driver - it is obligatory. And here if you decided to go to the country, it is better to employ a private trader. With it it is possible to agree about the fixed payment of a long trip with stops at falls - the counter of words does not understand. There is no car rental in Adjara yet.
Placement and livelihood
In Adjara 50 hotels and 30 sanatoria which in total can accomodate 14 thousand tourists. The Prime Minister of the Adzharian autonomous republic Levan Varshalomidze tells SP that in the next years the capacity of tourist infrastructure will increase much: for example, the Kazakh investors redeemed 22 Batumi hotels under reconstruction.
As in any resort, in Batumi it is possible to stay both in hotel, and in the private sector. Room with all conveniences and a thrice buffet in five-star hotel “Inturistpalas“ costs from $100 a day. In Batumi there are a lot of private hotels. Number in two-star “Solomon - an oriental carpet“ also with full food - $40-60. In Gold Anchor hotel one berth will cost $18. At desire to this sum it is possible to add on three meals a day for $12 a day.
At private traders, of course, cheaper. The room in the old city can be rented for 15 - 20 lari a day. And the cottage at the river Chorokhi, in only 10 kilometers from Batumi and at the same distance from Turkey, costs $100 a day, but in it with comfort eight will accommodate - ten people - the quite good offer for a trip to Adjara the big company.If in the hotel chosen by you does not have
the option all inclusive or you stopped at a private trader, then it is necessary to eat in cafe or restaurant. And here a certain disappointment can wait for you: for certain you will understand that the Moscow khinkalis, khachapuri, suluguni, a shish kebab, an unleavened wheat cake and lobios are similar on Georgian only the name. And to taste and the price - one distinctions. The table of the Batumi restaurant bursting with snack and hot dishes, greens, wines and mineral waters on five - six people costs everything about $40-50. The account will be even less if to order not bottle wine, but casting which is not worse at all.If you are going to prepare
, it is better to buy products not in shops where goods are more expensive, and the prices are fixed, and in the market. Veal stands up 7 - 9 lari for kilogram, potatoes - 1,5 lari, onions - 0,8 lari, a big circle of suluguni - 6 lari, bread - 0,5 lari. Veal (probably, from - for the fact that cattle is grazed on slopes of mountains) has tremendous taste. And potatoes slightly remind a melon - to it I have no explanations.
With a small glass, but with big feeling
If to forget about policy, the real Georgian wine can get poisoned only in one case: at first to drink red, then white, then red again, and then “to varnish“ all this chacha. And if to speak seriously - Georgian wines not only fragrant, tasty and useful, but also cheap. Even branded. In wine shop of Gela Daneliya (he is a relative of the famous director and owns almost centenary wine patents) “Odzhalesha“ costs only 10 lari, and “Kakheti“ - at all 4 lari. The 5 liter plastic baklazhka of “Tsinandali“ can be bought for 15 lari. “Gogi`s long loaf, you without pesticides?“ - pinned up me somehow to a merikipa (so at the Georgian table call spilling). “After a ban of import of wine to Russia Georgians began to drink more!“ - gloomy joked the host.However the ban of import of Georgian wine played
also on advantage of Georgia.“ Recently certification of vineyards was carried out, their grade and productivity is recorded. It will allow to reduce sharply amount of the forged wine“, - says vice-the mayor of Batumi Robert Chkhaidze.
Unfortunately, it is impossible to treat the Moscow friends with the pleasant grades: earlier in hands allowed to carry by up to two liters of wine, after introduction of embargo it is forbidden to import it also to individuals. Though, between us, in customs “green channel“ wine is carried by nevertheless. And often not on two liters for time, and much more.to Save
- If you were bothered by Turkey and Egypt, collect the company of friends and buy the air ticket on the unusual direction
- If you sat down at the Kutaisi airport of Kopitnari, change in the free bus. 130 km of the picturesque road - and you in Batumi
- If you landed in Sochi, get on the motor ship or “rocket“ and enjoy sea walk to Batumi
- Remove a cottage in the suburb of Batumi or choose to yourself hotel to taste
- On the way to the beach glance on the local market. Having bargained as it is necessary to the good buyer, stock up with wine, fruit and cheese
- Having got for the Georgian feast, do not try to drink as much wines how many owners (if only you not the Georgian) to save in Batumi
Since July, 2004 between Russia and Georgia the simplified visa regime works. Russians can receive the short-term visa to Georgia at the Top Lars check point on the Russian border with South Ossetia and at the airports of Tbilisi and Batumi (for the period of reconstruction of the Batumi airport - in Kopitnari near Kutaisi). The cost of the one-time visa for one month makes $20, for three months - $30. All persons arriving to Georgia for the term of more than three days have to be registered in OVIR of Georgia in three-day time.
of Georgia - lari. In one lari - the 100th cloth ears. One lari - $0,57, or 15 rub. Shops can accept dollars and rubles. But it is simpler to deal with national currency. Exchangers are practically near each outlet, and it is not necessary to look for a favorable rate - it is fixed by the Batumi bank. Only in hotels you pay for lari couple kopeks bigger.