Tunisia: Women`s kitchen of
you Want you do not want, and in Tunisia the classics is remembered: “city of contrasts“. The country is seemingly Muslim, and there is no polygamy. Inhabitants, having come under influence of the neighboring Italy, eat macaroni with pleasure, but on streets manually bake bread. And restaurants are similar to the museums
For a start - a trip in figures. 18 journalists from the different countries and 10 translators in one bus. 3 five-star hotels (we wander in a civilized way). 15 visits to restaurants. Lunches at least from 5 changes of dishes. 2 tastings of 20 wine brands. One orchard more than 100 hectares. Couple of museums, three Medina (the ancient centers of the cities - in Tunisia, Hammamet, Bizerte). Two food markets. 4 extra kilos in 4 days of stay (of course if there is everything that is given!) … And uncountable stars over the beach when you leave to inhale a full breast sea air.
Then - details which remain in memory. You wake up from unimaginable trills early in the morning: birdies cheerfully eat the compliment remains from hotel which are thoughtlessly left by us the day before on a balcony. Makrud - the tiny cookies from the date test soaked with honey with cinnamon and sprinkled with sesame were obviously to the taste to them. As well as to us. We will buy these cookies in the last day in Carrefour shop as a souvenir.
First impressions of Tunisia. On streets of the student in jeans overtake elderly aunties in national clothes, “Renaults“ and “Peugeot“ politely bend around the horse vehicle; the grandfather - the driver as if descended from the pages “1001 nights“, habitually smiles in a chamber. There are no smart boutiques; continually catch sight hung out directly before an entrance to shops of ink - a ram, a calf, hares. And near daily occurrence - centuries-old antiquity: ruins of Carthage, it is white - blue houses of the suburb of Tunisia - Sidi Bu Said, the museum of a mosaic of Bardo, Zitun`s mosque … Wind drives clouds, and from - for it it seems that the minaret floats in the sky too.
On narrow small streets of Medina as in old time, manually bake bread - in furnaces on live fire. The company round loaf from flour of firm grades of wheat should be ordered in advance because demand is big. Bread - an integral part of a table of Tunisians. It is eaten with jam and honey, asidy (porridge from flour) and harissy - the well-known hot spice on the basis of tomato paste, garlic and spices (several cans with themselves to Moscow - all in the same Carrefour).
of Grades of bread in Tunisia weight. In hotels we were given generally French - portion rolls with various additives. Simple Tunisians prefer herd bread - very thin, similar to an unleavened wheat cake. It is baked on walls of big cast iron of clay in which make fire. Bizerte is known for a grade of a bushkar, Kairouan (one of three most significant Muslim cities in the world) is famous for barley. In general say that in Tunisia how many the cities, are so much also bread. In the south of the country, in the Sahara, bread is cooked in sand. When the fire burns through to coals, under it in sand put dough, sometimes adding to it the olives cut by pieces or onions.
Restaurants of high Tunisian cuisine often are located in old Arab houses and are similar to the museums. There is no general hall, guests are treated in cozy rooms or salons. We push a heavy door with a typical ornament (mixture of symbols of all religions - Christianities, Islam, Judaism) and we get to magnificent “Sofa“.
Us was treated: salad blankid with croutons in sauce vinaigrette with addition of a harissa; classical salad meshuya from vegetables, fried on a grill, with olive oil and a tuna; the Tunisian fresh vegetables salad decorated with fresh sheep cheese ricotta; salad from artichokes with eggs and olives; the Arab snack of Osh obult (by sight and taste - quenelle); triangular pies from thin crust … Big pie of the size of our cheburek call BRIC, tiny - BRIC of a danuna, but the crust equally appetizingly crackles both at that and at another. The stuffing can be different - meat or fish forcemeat, seafood or vegetables, - but by all means with egg. BRIC is taken fingers for triangle top, watered with a limonchik and sent to a mouth. The Tunisian proverb says:“ BRIC is eaten with hands even before kings“.
we Will organize a landing on kitchen with own eyes to see how do a malsuka - dough for brik. 50 - summer Fatah does a malsuka all life. This ability is transferred in a family on the female line as the craft demands purely female accuracy and patience. At Fatah three sons therefore she teaches neighbour`s girls. Looking as dexterously she puts shmatochka of the crude test and exactly distributes them on a thin frying pan, you think of border of craft and art...by
Tunisian cuisine - kitchen of mothers and grandmothers, in it most of all appreciate kind hands and experience. Girls come on service to restaurant, possessing certain skills, and further training goes in the course of work. Mother 26 - summer Hanen Dalila works in “Sofa“ long ago, prepares almost all menus. Sometime and Hanen it will be entrusted for now she specializes in preparation of couscous - the main course of Tunisians, a subject of national pride.Try
- the Tunisian salad Briki`s
- Spicy Tunisian fish soup
- the Grouper with harissy and olives
- Couscous with meat and vegetables
- of Coffee on - Tunisian
We sigh, once again digesting information that in the country there are about 50 types of couscous, and the most expensive - with three grades of meat (mutton, fish and chicken). We are not able to digest a dish any more. Imagine decent height a pyramid from the wheat grains prepared on bouillon for steam from meat of a lamb and vegetables with deepening in the middle where pieces of meat lie, and on each side hills - large segments of boiled red pepper and green fennel … No, not ladies` this business - to eat couscous! To us the fish caught in the gulf Hammamet - the gilthead, the old salt or the salt, dear, the 26th dinar for 1 kg is more to liking ($1 = 1,3 dinars); asked the price in the market. And also octopuses, squids or spiny lobsters.
of Kefi Fatkhi, the chef of the best fish restaurant of the capital “Blue chasm“, says that the Mediterranean kitchen is approximately identical everywhere. Both in Italy, and in Greece, and in Tunisia preservation of natural taste of fish and seafood is considered the most valuable. Minimum of thermal treatment! He considers as feature of the kitchen use of local seasonings - various pepper, laurels, rosemary etc. The octopus there indeed was excellent, and we did not catch a hint on seasonings. And in Bizerte on a huge dish served us the spiny lobster issued in the form of the ancient Phoenician ship - a miracle of creative thought of local cooks.In general Bizerte me very much was pleasant to
. There was the present spring day, the sun is dazzling shone in the blue sky, forcing to sparkle a sea smooth surface. Tourists from Russia prefer Hammamet, and in vain. In Bizerte the scope lovely to the Russian heart is felt. Pure kilometer beaches, flat white embankment, modern high houses. On balconies carpets or linen dry, covering satellite plates. On one of streets lives in an old mansion 90 - summer Anastasia Shirinskaya, a legend of the Russian emigration (Nikita Mikhalkov shot about it the movie). It shows to everyone small orthodox church, Pushkina quotes and still swims in the sea.
Picturesque old port. The Finikiyets restaurant was located onboard the wooden ship, live fish floats directly under a glass floor there - hold. The owner`s spouse, 30 - the summer beauty Miriam Alush, mother of three children, was engaged in restaurant business too (not without the aid of relatives, it is natural). She is the chef of small restaurant with the pretentious name “Happiness“ who specializes in home-made noodles dishes. So, here prepare osban - noodles with mutton or chicken giblets. Tunisians in general often eat pasta, the proximity of Italy and globalization in general affects.Should note
that women in Tunisia work in any spheres, as in Europe. We saw women - drivers of the elevated subway, the girl - the chief specialist of wine-making economy. The rights of women in Tunisia are protected not by(with) the Koran, but the law. Polygamy is forbidden, and there are practically no stains as in this case all property remains to the wife. And here result of loyalty, our guides complain: the Tunisian girls, though Muslims, now both smoke, and drink wine! (We assure, in Tunisia is what to drink: the Mornag and Selyan brands are excellent.) However we did not see neither the smoking, nor drinking women (drinking alcohol of men, however, too). >
But it was found out p that on Saturday all street cafes are filled only by men. They drank coffee and tea, communicated and watched on TV soccer. And we went by to Nabyol, the capital of oranges. On both sides of the road the chain of trucks and vehicles with a citrus was built; trade in wholesale. Tasting of freshly squeezed juice from various grades of oranges at an entrance to Nabyol`s city hall is tens of glasses with shades from disgrace to a ruby!
In Tunisia are grown up by about 100 grades of oranges. The whole box volume a dream (very juicy fruits with a hole in a peel below) - a gift from a garden - filled with a smell our bus in the afternoon, was not eaten yet.Tunisians eat with
fruit on a season; nobody will demand in February fresh grapes. Bananas grows a little here, the price of them is high, and the people prefer to buy in the winter tangerines. Eat peaches, apricots, green almonds in the spring; in the summer - strawberry, water-melons, melons, apples, a fig. In September from the South of the country bring huge pomegranates. Dates collect all the year round, them in Tunisia nearly 70 grades, and the most refined - deglt Nour (“Paradise fingers“). A date palm tree - a perennial spring of products for Tunisian cuisine. Dates jam was cooked still by bedouins - nomads for delight during transitions on the desert. On the basis of treacle from dates and until now prepare the most part of national sweets. The most expensive snack the palm tree core - white soft shaybochka without any expressed taste as it seemed to us is considered. That to prepare it, the old palm tree which yields already few fruits is cut down. From a core also take it is transparent - the white juice of a legma similar on birch. Drink it during the heat cooled - legm well satisfies thirst.
A to us after each meal were given a cup of sweet green tea with mint and pine nuts. Very much tones up. Thanks to a side!