In pre-revolutionary Russia the outer garments were bought by units. During an era of totalitarian deficiency tailors too without work did not sit. From the beginning of reorganization about tailors was forgot. But today, when the clothes bought in shop - the phenomenon trivial, much want to walk in a dress of individual tailoring again. How to find the tailor, the correspondent of “SP“ Elena Malik found out.
Certainly to say that our compatriots were completely reoriented on tailoring at personal tailors, it is impossible: the abundance of boutiques, shops, shopping centers and ware markets shows it once again. But, according to tailors, a tendency to “clothes individualization“ in Russia nevertheless it is traced.“ Traditionally things to order most often sew or those who essentially do not recognize outer garments, or those from - for features of a figure it is difficult for whom to pick up to itself clothes in shop, - the designer of women`s clothing Irina Volonikhina says. - But recently there were more people who order things from tailors because they want to be allocated somehow“.by
to That who nevertheless decided to find ware identity, to elect the master, at the seeming variety it will be not so simple.with
In Soviet period in Moscow about 730 studio (apart from workshops worked at various ministries and departments). Now their number was reduced four times. And that many from existing studio will not undertake tailoring: they earn by small repair and completely is not able to dress the customer simply.not to be sewn up
Even if you are sure by
you should not brush aside formalities. the Order in studio needs to be issued documentary. For this purpose the inspector is obliged to fill in the receipt which according to the “Rules of consumer services of the population in the Russian Federation“ approved by the government of Russia has to contain such data:
- name and location (legal address) of studio;
- type of service (work);
- cost of service (work);
- the exact name, the description and the price of materials (at repair and tailoring of products from natural fur in the presence of both parties fur semi-finished products and skins have to be marked);
- a mark about payment by the consumer of all-round price of service (work) or about the contributed advance payment;
- of date of reception and execution of the order;
- warranty periods for results of work;
- a position of the person who took the order and his signature, and also the signature of the consumer who handed over the order.
Even if you were lucky to find the working studio, to rejoice early. In the majority of regional masterful regular fashion designers is not present. The lonely tailor who will perform all work from measurements and cutting before tailoring will sew clothes, most likely. So dreams that will measure you as at cinema in six hands, it is better to leave behind a threshold.with
As a rule, or in studio the skilled, but already created experts from whom it is senseless to wait for something ultrafashionable work, or the customer will be met by the recent graduate of school working “to get the hand“. But even the young specialist will hardly undertake a difficult individual thing. The matter is that in this type of business as it is strange, complexity of work only reduces the income of the tailor.
“In studio the worker draws interest from working costs, - the fashion designer Anna Dyomina tells. - And as a result it turns out that to sew a difficult thing on which a lot of time, not really favourably will leave. For example, on a poshivmuzhsky suit on a lining 7 - 10 working days will leave. At the cost of ready suit of 5 - 6 thousand rubles the tailor will receive on average 30, and at best 50% of this money. If to count, then 7 - 10 thousand rubles a month will turn out that at present not densely“.
On average the prices in regional studio (without fabric cost) such: a dress without sleeves - $30-40, with sleeves of $40-50; skirt lined $25-40, trousers female $35-45, man`s $45-60, jacket lined $100-150. These are “base prices“, and price markups follow further: the price of a product increases twice if the client brought fabric which it is difficult to process, for example chiffon if “the complicating elements“ are necessary: pockets, cuts, edgings, collars - from $1 to $10 for everyone.So far the thing is sewed by
, it is necessary to come to fitting several times. Direct skirts, sundresses demand one fitting, and jackets, trousers and dresses need at least two: the more it will be made fittings, the thing will be better to sit. The term allotted on tailoring in different studio is not identical - from two to four weeks, it depends on load of the tailor. It is necessary to pay extra for urgency: the cost of the suit sewed for one - five days, grows by 20õ40%.
Can address to the so-called departmental studio in the past closed for any passers-by. Now they serve any. Such studio is at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the Ministry of Defence, Academy of Sciences. It is possible to address also in most “pathos“ - the former studio at a hozupravleniye of the Central Committee of CPSU, - which is called SUE Prezident-service now and is located on Kutuzovsky Avenue. $300 will take for tailoring of a men`s suit there, and $100 - for not the most difficult women`s dress (naturally, without fabric cost).quality of work is guaranteed to
In the former departmental studio. Here, as before in luxury studio, real masters and even designers work with the higher education. But it is better to go to the former departmental studio that who prefers classical clothes style:“ We are ready to take any order, but generally our clients are people solid, those that conservatively treat clothes style“, - Tatyana Grishkina, the designer of women`s clothing of Denmark studio at Presidential Property Management Department of the Russian Federation notices.the identity Price If quality of work or a style of the offered models in regional studio you do not suit
, it is possible to address to so-called “author`s studio“, “studios of tailoring“ or just “masterful“. Under such signs disappear studio of “new generation“ - in them the young fashion designers ready to work with each customer individually and capable to sew qualitative clothes, as a rule, work., however, should be paid
For quality. Tailoring of a men`s suit in such studio will cost $700-750, a tuxedo - $800-850, a women`s business suit - $400-570, dresses - from $250 (without fabric). But the professional designer or the fashion artist who materializes idea of the customer will work with the client or will offer the. Anyway the individual approach is guaranteed to the customer.“ When the suit made under you is ready, in it there is nothing superfluous, each seam precisely corresponds to body bends, and the suit seems natural part of the person, fitting, adjustment, do not seem tiresome any more“, - the designer Evgenia Kolchina says.All process takes with
about a month: during this time it is necessary to come to studio at least three times: for removal of measures and adjustment. As for guarantees, in studio of this price group think of clients very much, and not only eliminate the oversights, but also free of charge make changes at the request of the client to whom unlike the master happens very difficult to understand how the thing will look.as
the Private shop
the Competitor traditional studio private tailors also act. Like “Services and the prices“ can be found in the “Iz Ruk V Ruki“ newspaper or editions numerous announcements “I sew at home“. The fair share of the dressmakers offering the services is made by the Belarusians who arrived to earnings, Moldavians and Ukrainians. The professional tailors living in Moscow or just the people able to sew give similar announcements much less often, it is probable that form the clients in other ways.
the Address to the private tailors found according to the announcement is similar to a lottery - if the happy ticket gets, it is possible to receive a thing as from studio, but is much cheaper. It is worth remembering, however, that risk to get to the nonprofessional it is rather high.
the Most innocent of disappointments which can wait for the client - the master will be able to advise nothing efficient if the person did not decide on a style yet. It can turn out and so that as a result you receive a thing which with conceived has nothing in common. > Anyway if you address the private master for the first time, it is better for p to discuss
at once as you arrive if the thing is not pleasant to you. It is better to make calculation when receiving clothes which suit you. To avoid disappointments, first of all it is necessary to find out what education the tailor has and to learn what his track record. One of important questions which should be set - whether is at the tailor the professional equipment, for example, an overlok. The household sewing machine will not always be able to master the chosen fabric.
“If the master good, he does not just undertake to sew clothes, but will make recommendations about an occasion of model, material and a cut of clothes, - the tailor with 20 - a summer experience Zhanna Krasikova tells. - Will not frighten him, and, on the contrary, will interest even the most intricate style. There can sometimes be a situation when the good tailor together with the client buys fabric and necessary accessories to avoid a mistake if the client does such purchase independently“.the good master, most likely, will call
the price in one and a half - two times lower, than in design studios. For example, the men`s suit will cost $300-400, a dress of $150-250, trousers - $60-70.
the Brand tailor
wealthy people can order a suit or a shirt from the companies - leaders of individual tailoring, without leaving the Garden ring. Such orders are taken by boutiques “Kaligula“ (Brioni brand), Ermenegildo Zegna, Canali, The Imperial Tailoring Co studio. and others. After consultation of the expert, the choice of the pleasant model and fabric to it take measurements (in certain cases together with measures take the picture of the customer) of the client, all materials send to place of production. There skilled masters adjust curves to a concrete figure, cut out and sew a suit. Between the first and last visit to such studio there pass a little less than two months: one month on tailoring and several weeks on delivery. In Moscow it will be necessary only to adjust a suit finally: to hem trousers (to fitting it is necessary to come to footwear with which it is supposed to carry a new thing), to specify length of a sleeve and other trifles. Naturally, such work costs expensive and the materials “brand“ tailors use expensive. Anyway, it is worth preparing that the price of a ready suit will not be lower than $3500.