Rus Articles Journal

``Eliseevsky``: The museum for a gourmet of

in Moscow appeared More than hundred years ago Eliseevsky grocery store. To buy from Yeliseyev was not only it is prestigious - many came as to the museum here. The high status kept the best epicure of the capital even in the most difficult years of our history.

the Ceremonial opening of “Yeliseyev`s shop and a cellar of the Russian and foreign wines“ took place in the summer of 1901. By then the being palace of the princess of Beloselskaya - Belozerskoy on crossing of Tverskaya Street and Kozitsky Lane was three years on reconstruction. Works were conducted in the conditions of privacy: the house was sheathed by a yew, and specially paid builders for silence.

Curious which managed to make out something in a chink, assured that the Indian pagoda or the Mauritian lock is under construction. But did not expect such luxury to see nobody …

Since morning people crowded at huge show-windows, marveling at mountains of unknown products: the strange overseas fruits, shaggy coconuts casting nacre lobsters... Batteries of skillfully illuminated wine bottles repeatedly were reflected in the deep mirrors leaving up under faintly - a green ceiling. Everywhere gold, stucco molding, patten lists, magnificent crystal chandeliers... By noon the police pushed aside gapers, freeing the drive for important guests. Arrived the owner of this “Bakhus`s temple“ (as immediately christened shop in the people) - the millionaire Grigory Grigoryevich Yeliseyev met.

Grigory was a grandson of the founder of a dynasty Pyotr Yeliseyev. When the boy was born, to his father, Grigory Petrovich, was already sixty, and mothers - for forty. Clever and talented, he got a fine education in the homeland and abroad. Commerce it were trained by the father.

Grigory was proud of the family roots. His grandfather Pyotr Eliseevich Kasatkin, the serf gardener Sheremetev`s column, received the manumission thanks to ability and … to sharpness. In the winter of columns surely came to the Yaroslavl manor with guests. For Christmas of 1812 Pyotr gave the fresh wild strawberry which is grown up by it in the greenhouse to a table. Guests at first did not believe the eyes, having taken berries for candies, but then to their surprise and delight there was no end. “Well, pleased! Ask what you want!“ - precipitately Sheremetev exclaimed. As a result of columns suddenly lost the best gardener, and that in a week traded on the Nevsky in oranges racing. In a year Pyotr redeemed from Sheremetev of the brother Grigory, and they organized the first trade association. Entering merchants, brothers registered in honor of the father Yeliseyev.

not to pay superfluous to dealers, Pyotr Yeliseyev himself went to tropical countries behind fruit. In passing it personally tried and ordered wines on the island of Madeira, in the port French city of Bordeaux, the Portuguese Porto and the Spanish Sherry. Soon the bench of brothers turned into the main wine trading center of St. Petersburg. Pyotr`s sons expanded family business: got own fleet and huge warehouses in the large cities of Russia and the central wine-making regions of Europe. From now on Yeliseyev bought wine not just in bulk, and the whole harvests. By 1843 they so strongly got on feet that they founded firm “Bratya Eliseevy“ with authorized capital of almost 8 million rubles, and in 1874 - m the firm received honor to be called as “The supplier of the yard of its Imperial Majesty“.

... The important guests who came to opening of shop that his owner - the millionaire personally directed registration of counters together with salesmen would know spreading intricate pyramids from products! The style which is thought up by it - a hill of artly laid fruit - remained up to now.

Yeliseyev always with love treated the business. Honor and prestige of firm were above all. On a counter there were only freshest products - at the slightest hint on marriage they were put aside. It was impossible to throw out anything - God forbid who will see that at Yeliseyev “paradise fruit sportitsya“! And home serving them did not give for the same reason. Therefore from the very beginning of trade activity in shops evening eating of berries and fruit by workers was started.

of All in “Eliseevsk“ five departments opened: kolonialno - a delicatessen, Baccara crystal, grocery, confectionery and the most extensive - fruit. Besides, there were still a wine cellar and production shops.

to Muscovites “wooden“ (olive) oil which Yeliseyev bought in Provence was to the taste to

. It gave a taste them and for the French truffles, and for ostendsky oysters. Primordially Russian gammons, beloryb and sturgeon balyks, caviar successfully competed to overseas goods.

In confectionery department special popularity tiny “ladies` cakes“ from own bakery enjoyed

. There is a lot of grades of coffee and tea that buyers were lost, and without salesmen not to understand wines at all.

B 1903 Grigory Grigoryevich opened similar shop in St. Petersburg, on the Nevsky, then - in Kiev. The glory about them went across all Russia. In 1913 century of Trading house of Yeliseyev was widely noted. Newspapers dazzled with enthusiastic descriptions of anniversary celebrations. Who could think that the firm will soon stop the existence …

B 2003, to 190 - to the anniversary of the House of Yeliseyev, current owners of an epicure carried out restoration of the ancient room. And the grown dull gold began to shine again, being reflected in mirrors, and frescos in style of an art nouveau decorated walls.

However, today the shop changed not only externally. The reformatory spirit of the last Yeliseyev who much made in order that the gastronomy became part of our national culture returned to it as though.