As to the man to look stylishly
of the Man worry about the appearance too, but they hesitate to ask questions - possibly, for this reason they address for consultations less often. Dark tone, harmonious colors and monotone of a suit - here the council useful to any man. Vertical and diagonal lines, not volume fabrics, proportionality of a suit are the principles, fair for representatives of any floor. But there are some moments of which men have to think. So let`s pass to them and we will begin with suits.
the Choice of breed of a suit always depends on personal taste. But not too tight and not too shapeless suit will be suitable for most of men - except for courageous avant-gardists and the European dandies-. Look for something average between shapeless American and tight European suits. Your suit has to combine convenience of the American style and elegance of the European. Therefore, the ideal suit has to be slightly fitted, with the underlined line of shoulders and possess moderately high, but convenient armholes.we Will pass
- Lapels of a jacket should not be neither too narrow, nor too wide. Ideal width - about three and a half inches (9 cm). The lapel has to come to an end approximately in the middle between a collar of a shirt and an armhole. Wide lapels always do a figure of the man wider.
- As a rule, pro-carved pockets with valves more correspond to an official suit though they also give additional volume to hips. Leave patchpockets for sports jackets and suits. Pro-carved pockets always do you to more harmonous.
- Be careful of cuts behind. They very much change a type of a jacket, influence landing and the movements. From three possible options of jackets - without cuts, with one section or with two - specialists in men`s wear recommend double cuts that is typical for the English suits. Such style does harmonous any man, except for that who have very deep thighs (in that case better to be limited to one section). Why two sections do the man higher? Lines of cuts visually extend legs, do the movements by more free. When the man puts hands in pockets, cuts allow a jacket not to stretch on buttocks. And when you sit down, your jacket is less rumpled. Cuts should not be too deep. Section depth, according to experts, has to be limited to the line of pro-carved pockets (that is 18 - 23 cm) from edge of a jacket for a standard suit.
the man thick and disproportionate as well as the woman. Though in good shops the men`s suit will be adjusted to a figure, completely will not be able to alter a suit to you there. Naturally, they prefer to be limited to the most minimum alterations. In other words, you cannot count that in shop will solve all your problems. You should know highlights.
the Most problem areas of a jacket are shoulders, armholes, a breast and length. If the three first an element do not fit well when the man for the first time tries on a jacket, it already forever. As a rule, it is impossible to correct these defects. Length of a jacket can be changed to 2 - 5 cm. If you truncate a jacket more, then will break proportionality of a suit in general. Here is how the good jacket has to sit. Shoulders have to be rather wide
- . If they too narrow, it is difficult for you to move, and in shoulders ugly folds will appear. The sleeve has to fall down freely from a shoulder, without forming folds or zalom. the Jacket has to be rather wide
- in a breast that in it it was convenient to you when are buttoned. For check sit down in the buttoned jacket. have to be cut out by
- of the Armhole rather deeply that the sleeve did not crash into an armpit. Too deep armholes (and full sleeves) make look fat the man, and sleeves are rolled up if to raise a hand.
- the Jacket of ideal length completely closes buttocks. The usual way of check of length - to lower a hand and to measure length - is not always exact as different people have hands of different length. (For the tall man the jacket has to be longer to observe proportionality of a suit.)
- Trying on a jacket, the man has to put on an official shirt to check length of a sleeve and height of a collar. Traditionally the collar of a shirt has to act over a jacket on 1 - 1,5 cm, and sleeves can look out on the same 1 - 1,5 cm from sleeves.
- the Collar of a jacket has to be rounded smoothly around a neck, and lapels, on the contrary, have to adjoin to a breast densely. the Jacket has to be slightly fitted by
- . The direct jacket seems baggy. But also too you should not give a close fit to a jacket as cuts in that case can disperse.
- of the Sleeve have to be length to a wrist when hands are freely lowered along a body. If you need to remake sleeves, the tailor has to measure both hands as their length can differ.
how the suit or a sports jacket looks, in many respects depends on the next moments (and it is very simple to correct all this):
- If you hem trousers, surely try on them with footwear. Trousers with tops should be hemmed in a straight line, and they have to be rather long that approximately on on 1 - 1,5 cm to cover raising of boots.
- the Standard size of a top - 4 centimeters for the man of average height and 4,5 cm for the tall man. Trousers without tops are hemmed so that ahead they were a little shorter, and behind freely went down on boots, and their length has to be to that place where the boot passes into a heel.
- Trousers have to sit on a waist, but not on hips as jeans, and from hips not to fall down at all, as at the drunk plumber. On a waist trousers not only fit well, but also mask the acting stomach. Trousers have to be narrowed by
- slightly from a hip to an ankle. Forget about trousers - a flare and about absolutely direct trousers - they do the man of low growth absolutely small.
- the Step of trousers has to be convenient. If trousers in a step hang, it does a figure baggy and stocky.
- Forward pockets should not droop. The same is fair also in relation to folds. Width of trousers in hips has to be such that pockets densely adjoined to a body, and folds remained straight lines and did not disperse.
of the Shirt, collars and a shape of a face
As the collar of a shirt is continuation of a man`s face, the form of a collar can not only visually change a shape of a face, but also make essential impact on a general view of the person. Means, the shirt should be selected correctly. How to make it?
the Form of a collar happens following:
- with sharp corners;
- turn-down with direct corners;
- on a button;
- on a rack;
- the Eton collar (with a pin);
- a collar - a rack.
As a rule, the form of a collar is selected depending on a shape of a face and length of a neck. A golden rule in this question - contrasts are attracted. The Kruglolitsy man will suit collars with sharp corners, the long person will better look if a collar wider. Length of a neck influences a collar form differently. For a short neck short collars, for a long neck - higher are necessary. You have to remember the following always:
- short neck = low stand-up collars, flat collars;
- a long, thin neck = high stand-up collars, collars on a rack;
- thin, long person = collars of average width and wide;
- a round face - collars with sharp corners, long or average length.
- a short thick neck or a full round face - any small turn-down collars and collars on buttons. To you collars with sharp corners will go more. The rounded corners will emphasize a shape of a face.
- a face and a neck of the average size - collars of the average size.
- Double-breasted suits look officially and well look when are clasped - on top or on the lower button, but not on both together. It is better for low men to clasp only the lower button. But it is necessary to remember that most of men look more harmonous in a single-breasted suit.
- all aforesaid belongs To sports jackets, but they can be slightly more free that under them it was possible to put on a sweater.
- coat Length. The coat should not be above a knee. If coats too short, proportions are broken and the man looks baggy, stocky and clumsy. Optimum length - 15 - 20 cm is lower than a knee, but, certainly, everything depends on a constitution. Big brilliant buckles on belts draw with
- attention to area of a stomach therefore it is better to choose less noticeable buckles and not too wide belts - no more than 3 cm wide. Length of a belt needs to be chosen also correctly. The belt should not support the first loop more than on several inches. But also too short belt looks ugly.
- the Tie has to be the correct length too. In the tied look the tip of a tie has to reach a waist of trousers (one more reason for which it is not necessary to wear trousers on hips). by
- Choose the fabrics which do not have excess volume. Velveteens and tweeds give additional volume. It is the best of all to sew a suit from qualitative fine natural fabrics. Fabric has to be soft and it is good to be draped.
- If you have a large head, the line of shoulders at a jacket can be wider.
- to Men with a tummy should not put on sweaters with a wide elastic band in a stomach.
- Too wide trousers go only to tall men. Below average height it is better for men to prefer slightly made narrower or absolutely tight trousers. Jackets on three or even four buttons can make by
- the man higher and harmonous, but they have to correspond to his way of life. Such suits look is a little elaborate therefore they have to be in harmony with the identity of the owner.
- Should not wear heavy big boots with tight trousers - especially if at boots square noses. we do not advise
- to wear baggy wide jackets. The fitted jacket looks much more elegant.
- you do not wear wide bright ties with color shirts. You should not wear a tie in a strip with a striped shirt. Forget
- about keeping hands in pockets - it breaks the vertical line.
- For official cases to the man with a tummy can put on a vest, but not to tie a wide silk belt. If you nevertheless need this belt, remember that folds have to look up - that to crumbs was where to fall, probably.
- Collars on official shirts have to adjoin to a neck, without crashing into it, but also without lagging behind. Too big collar looks also badly, as well as too small. The shirt has to be convenient, but not too spacious that material did not gather in folds. Cotton shirts can shrink when washing. Upon purchase of such shirt add 1 - 1,5 cm at length of a sleeve and the size of a collar.
the General rules
- the Vertical line which is created by a small strip to you very much will be suitable
for large men. It is better to forget about a section unless it will be very small and almost imperceptible. Choose monophonic dark fabrics - it is the safest for you option.
- Costume fabrics have to be smooth, not too volume. Choose such fabrics which are well draped. Clothes should not be
- too fitting, otherwise she will emphasize all folds. the Jacket has to be a little longer than
- usual and be on a back an easy fit. It is necessary to make narrower sleeves a little. Trousers have to be a little wider than
- in hips, than usually.
- Double-breasted jackets to you will not go, but if all of you wear a double-breasted suit, button a jacket on the lower button. > to you it is better for li to prefer to
- trousers without folds and tucks on a waist. Trousers with shooters should be chosen such that you easily could reach pockets. Trousers have to sit strictly on a waist. >
- to Men with pot-bellies it is better for li to wear trousers with braces. In that case trousers sit better, and under a jacket of tightening are not visible at all. If you are going to wear trousers with braces, then they have to be a little longer and are 1 - 1,5 cm wider in a waist, than usually. by
- Choose simple footwear, without excess jewelry.
- Buy by
the clothes of the small sizes calculated on low growth. You should not buy clothes of the usual size and to shorten it - so you will break proportionality.
- Shoulders at a jacket have to be not too wide, but square.
- Length of a jacket solves everything - do not wear either too long, nor too short jackets. Trousers should narrow
- from top to bottom a little more, than usually.
- the Footwear should not be too graceful.
- of the Coat and raincoats should not be too long. Ideal length - is slightly lower than a knee.