Rus Articles Journal

The wild nature of India or in the wake of Mowgli (as I traveled around national parks of India)

of the Fragment of the bas-relief decorating the temple in Kadzhurakho. E. Ledovsky` photo
India - the country of the Bengalese tigers and Asian lions, pure sandy beaches and ancient cult temples of refined forms and fancy architecture. India - the country of the jungle where the wild tribes living under laws of a primitive-communal system still disappear from eyes of civilized mankind. India - the place where adjoin with each other and somehow almost all world religions get on: Hinduism, Islam, Christianity, Sikhism, Buddhism, Jainism, Judaism and Zoroastrianism. India all life was the country of my dream.

in the childhood after reading of the book of River. Kipling of “Mowgli“ I had a cherished dream - to see those places where the shaggy bear of Balu and a black panther of Bagir together with a boa of Kaa sponsored a little human cub. And here, after a set of years, at last, I was lucky to find firm Home Mowgli which offered such route of which I dreamed - on national parks of the central and northern India. In the program there was a visit of national parks of Kankh, Bandavgarkh, Keoladeo, Rantambor and Corbett. At the same time four parks are included by the international organizations and the government of India in the special program calculated on preservation and restoration of population of the Bengalese tiger. And Keoladeo`s park - the world famous place of wintering of white cranes - white cranes who nest only in the most inaccessible places of the Western and Eastern Siberia.

Therefore, gathering in a trip, I was full of optimistic hopes and anticipated meetings with wild animals. Of course, I even did not assume that these meetings can be so close and that should be removed even without telephoto lens.

of an antelope to a nilga - the largest in the world. E. Ledovsky` photo
In national park of Kankh in two days has the luck to observe in different places of three tigers (two females and one very large male). A nilgaa (the largest antelopes in the world) I observed deer of aksis, sambars, antelopes almost every day from incredibly short distances. Kanhui was followed by Bandavgarkh. This park is much less across the territory, than Kankh and therefore it is considered that to see tigers there as easy as shelling pears. About tigers of this park I read articles and in the Geo magazine and the Russian edition “National Geographic“. As followed from articles, the staff of park knows each tiger not only in “face“, but also all his family tree: who whose daughter, or the son, and whose grandsons ate a female of the sambar at a stream behind the bridge yesterday.

the District in Bandavgarkh outstanding. You are surrounded almost from all directions by steep slopes of mountains, and between mountains the valley of the river with several small inflows, forming natural, but as if fenced off from other world, the territory where tigers live lies. However, in this park, we happened to observe only hunting of a tiger, without seeing him. The jungle was rather dense, shouts of animals distinct, but here is how everything occurred, it was not succeeded to see as there came night, and in the Indian national parks there is a strict rule for all without any exception - to leave the territory with sunset (usually it happens in 18. 00 - 18. 15).

of the Temple in Kadzhurakho. E. Ledovsky` photo
On the way to Keoladeo we visited one of world architectural pearls - Kadzhurakho, the complex consisting more than of 60 temples which are completely decorated anywhere in the world not with a seen erotic carving. Even it seems to me that all modern books on Kam Cutre are illustrated by the poses taken from walls of temples of Kadzhurakho.

O than still are remembered by the people dreaming to visit India? What is an informal, but the most popular symbol of this country in the world? Naturally, the mausoleum sung by poets Taj Mahal - a symbol of love of the shah Jahan to the wife Mumtaz. Therefore I, as well as any person visiting India for the first time also wanted to see this creation. It is necessary to tell that the very first impression of Taj Mahal is a desire to stay with a mausolean complex in private. I think that now the floodplain of the shah Jahan which in the moonlight nights looked from a fort balcony Agra at the snow-white mausoleum soaring in air and remembered everything the happy years spent from the darling. Now it is the architecture monument included in the list of objects of world heritage, on people from around the world gather to look which every day, and nobody it leaves indifferent.

of Taj Mahal. E. Ledovsky` photo

National park Bkharatpur or Keoladeo Gkhana was the following object of our visit. There is it in the east of the State of Rajasthan, about 50 km to the west of Agra. The park occupies the territory in 29 quarter. km from which 11 km - bogs, and other space is occupied by meadows and the woods. Here over 300 bird species live. It is one of the most picturesque bird`s reserves of India. As I already mentioned, exactly here the well-known white crane goes to wintering, he is the Siberian or big white crane. This disappearing bird (them there were only several honeycombs) to reach here for the short period - since December prior to the beginning of March, - overcomes the distance exceeding a half of the globe.

of Female of a deer of the sambar.

we spent by E. Ledovsky` photo two days To Keoladeo - one was devoted to the boat excursion combined with supervision of gnezdoviya of rare birds, and the next day there was a campaign which I would call “A campaign in a kingdom of pythons“. Our guide on park, apparently, was very keen on pythons and knew all holes and places where these huge snakes live and hunt. Only in one day we observed four mesh pythons, at the same time one of them was more than 4 long. 5 meters! The guide told that once he and four British managed to observe swallowing process by such python of a young deer of an aksis. How many at the same time it was finished shooting films, there is no mention, but I think that kilometers.

of the Python in Keoladeo`s national park has breakfast recently and quietly allowed to approach himself.


me it was pleasant to small of E. Ledovsky` photo also the fact that there I observed the wild bees arranging nests without any shelters on horizontal branches of trees. In our climate such phenomenon, certainly, is impossible, and it is necessary only to be surprised, the world of the wild nature is so perfect and various. Except birds boars, several species of deer and an antelope to a nilga also live in the reserve.

National parks Rantambor and Corbett are included by

in the Tiger project, but under the terms of dwelling for tigers and to a landscape are very various. Nevertheless, brochures did not deceive us, and we observed tigers in both parks. And, in Rantambore the tigress was met in 15 minutes after a vzjezd of the jeep on the park territory. In Corbett it is better to observe tigers from a back of elephants as thickets of an elephant grass are very dense and high, and therefore visibility is limited.

of during an evening safari on the jungle Kankhi the tiger left directly to our jeep. Photo E. Ledovsky

Corbett - the first national park of India. It was stretched on the hilly Himalaya foothills Shivalik in Dkhikal`s vicinities. Over 50 species of mammals, 580 bird species and 25 species of reptiles live in park. The most interesting inhabitants of park are leopards and other representatives cat`s, the Himalaya bear and a bear - gubach, a deer - aksis, wild dogs, jackals, porcupines, but indisputable “stars“ - wild elephants who can be met everywhere here, and gaviala.

the unique look lives In the world all - gangskiya gaviat. Despite the large sizes (to 6,6 m in length), this animal is dangerous unless to fish who makes his main food and for the person safely (though gaviala in Ganges devour bodies of people whom, according to custom, Indians bury in this sacred river). The main distinctive feature gaviat - surprisingly narrow and long jaws. Them as tweezers, gaviat, having hardly set the head, captures even the quickest small fishes.

Indians considered this animal as the sacred, protected god Vishnu. But it did not prevent mass destruction of a gavial: so, one Indian governor in the 19th century“ for the sake of practice in firing“ in one day shot down the whole one hundred gavial. By the beginning 70 - x of the 20th century during vseindiysky census of gavial it was established that them less than two hundred survived. The program of their rescue was urgently developed. On special farms scientists began to bring crocodiles out of the eggs gathered in the nature and to set free. The number of gavial increased a little, but danger of extinction of this look did not disappear yet. Gavialov in national park Corbett we observed well just with a sinking heart. Where in the world you will see such reptiles!

In general, preparing for India, I read a set of responses, but some dirt, insanitary conditions and an infection what wrote many about, in national parks I did not find, and they were pleasant to me much more, than the cities. In parks there is very decent accommodation with all conveniences, the acceptable food and the benevolent knowing people, but they as I understood, need to be known specifically, and on this point the Dersu Uzala Fund firm chosen by me was on the ball.

From my point of view, national parks - places which by all means should be visited in India, but the greatest surprising the fact that know about them a little in many companies where I addressed is. Besides, parks are a good option for those for whom only beach rest or trips around monasteries and who prefers rest more active is boring (or it is insufficient), and seeks to plunge really into country life from within.

of the Tigerish safari on elephants in Kankh. Photo E. Ledovsky

in conclusion I can give everything simple advice - it is possible to go to India cool, but it is necessary to go with the knowing people. As for the price, it is defined by desires and opportunities and to take your time with its discussion I do not see sense. In case of any questions it is ready to give explanations, but they will reflect, of course, my subjective view on this travel which to me to forget never.

P. S. Unfortunately, we did not see Asian lions as they live only in one of national parks - Gere that it is located in the State of Gujarat. To do a separate sortie there in the financial plan to me it was expensive therefore I decided to postpone acquaintance to lions until the following time when I go to investigate the southern India. By the way, though I was in Africa, India, nevertheless, made the most positive impression on me.