Rus Articles Journal

Offal: kidneys and the different “the forgotten pleasures“. Part II

Part I

Kidney sufficiency

of the Kidney - a product special. One adore them, others - hate. The French aristocrat Napoleon D`Abrantes even became famous for the fact that challenged to a duel of everyone who at his presence ate them. But today dishes from kidneys can be met at the most prestigious, even three-star restaurants. Are especially appreciated veal and yagnyach of a kidney - they are much more gentle beef and pork.

Upon purchase of kidneys the main thing governed

- their ideal freshness. Pay attention to renal fat. If kidneys fresh, then it has uniform structure and equal white color. And in general, though fat needs to be deleted carefully, its existence on kidneys - a good indicator.

Preparing for

a dish from kidneys, count for 150 - 200 on a portion. 1 veal kidney for 2 portions or 2 yagnyachy kidneys for 1 portion turns out.

If you want to buy

kidneys for the future - any problems. Slice with a their thickness of 2 cm - and in the freezer (naturally, having turned in cellophane). They are perfectly stored in the frozen look - till 3 - 4 months. Before preparation of a kidney it is necessary to defreeze, but not at the room temperature, and on the lower shelf of the refrigerator.

So, we begin to prepare. At first it is necessary to wash up kidneys and to remove all renal fat, then to make an incision them and to wash out properly. Quickly to remove fat from veal kidneys, they need to be cut on three parts lengthways, then fat will easily be removed on all length.

Beef kidneys experts recommend to lay out

in a colander and to scald several times the water acidified by vinegar. It is possible even to cut beef kidneys with large pieces and for several seconds to ship in abrupt boiled water. Veal and yagnyach of a kidney are scalded also, but entirely, without cutting by pieces.

can prepare for

From kidneys anything - roast, a saute, ragout, brochettes, stewed kidneys in sauce. At the same time beef kidneys will be more tasty if to extinguish them, and veal and yagnyach - in a fried look.

cannot Overroast veal kidneys - they become “rubber“. It is necessary to fry them no more than 5 minutes from each party. For preparation of yagnyachy kidneys of time will leave also that less, at the same time it is better to fry them on a grill. That they did not shrink from heat, to cut them in half and to string on wooden skewers, and then to fry for 3 minutes from each party. To fried kidneys perfectly there is a garlick oil.

Can fry

veal and yagnyach of a kidney on a frying pan. They are cut in cubes and 2 minutes are fried on strong fire in butter, then diminish fire, add to taste stuff - cream, wine, a Calvados, mushrooms, mustard, onions - shallot. In a word, everything that you want. Up to fried onions and cracklings.

the Forgotten pleasures

Beef cheeks can be bought

in the market, in advance having agreed to butchers, on fall when slaughter bull-calves. Shchechny meat differs in very gentle consistence and the interesting expressed taste. Upon purchase it is necessary to watch that cheeks were absolutely fresh. When cooking this product there are secrets too. That cheeks kept all the advantages, they need to be tied up as roll, and the touch - the better. It is necessary to weary cheeks in spicy broth of hour three, on very weak fire. Cheeks in a jelly or in the form of meat ragout with vegetables are very good.

one more rare offal - zobny gland of a calf Is. France considers zobny gland as a delicacy of all times and the people. But on sale it is not in Russia now so to speak about secrets of preparation is useless. You will see this dish at restaurant, by all means try.

of Missile defense heart were heard by all. But as to train him, it is known to the little. For a start properly wash out it and remove all clots of blood and it is desirable all zhilochka. Other preparation is not required - heart unlike other entrails does not need a soaking. And here slightly to pickle it will not damage. Marinade for heart is extremely simple: couple of carnations, a garlic segment, several spoons of olive oil, juice of 1 lemon, coarse salt, the crushed black pepper, a thyme branch. All this mixes up (garlic needs to be crushed), and the turned-out paste covers heart. It is necessary to draw half an hour. After that heart can be steamed or fried on skewers or, having sliced, under a grill.

Now several words about a product which in Russia is forgotten strongly and long ago. It is about a so-called rubezhny fatty film. It is a fatty layer on walls of a stomach of ruminants - cows, pigs and sheep. By the form she reminds translucent lacy fabric, from here and its culinary rank “krepint“ - “laces“. In modern Russian cuisine it is practically not used, but in the countries of Europe it can be bought in any supermarket. In butcher shops it cover days for pastes that forcemeat from fast meat turned into juicy terrine or it is gallant. In it wrap sausage forcemeat and forcemeat for meat “small loafs“. Use it and for roast, especially if fast meat is baked. Before the use krepint for several minutes presoak in warm water.

One of departments of a stomach is called a hem. It, actually, and everything that citizens know about a hem. And once soups from it were a crown dish of Russian cuisine. If you manage to buy a hem, it needs to be cleaned and soaked properly. After that it is cut big pieces and long - long cook - hour four, at the first stage changing water, then - with addition of various spices and spices like lavrushka, onions and garlic. Then take out, cut noodles and extinguish 4 hours with tomatoes and green pepper. Right at the end potato is added. From a hem prepare Scottish haggis, stuff pork stomachs. But a preparation essence one - the hem has to get to a pan ideally pure. Only then from it it is possible to prepare something tasty.

One more forgotten delicacy - an udder. It needs to be soaked long in several waters, adding vinegar to water, otherwise dairy smack which in this case is a shortcoming will not leave. Then the udder is long cooked - several hours, again - changing water. When it is almost ready, it is necessary to lay out it in very spicy hens - broth and to boil thoroughly 30 minutes. After that the udder is taken out, larded garlic and put under a press for 12 hours. The marvelous snack turns out. Like language.

What else at us remained? Tails, ears and legs. Ears and legs traditionally go on a jelly - perfectly! Jelly stiffens on time. And tails extinguish or cook from them soup, it turns out unusually, but is very tasty.