Rus Articles Journal

Heart in stones (the Maltese impressions). Part II

Part 1 can be considered it here.

Day of the eighth, Saturday. Three cities

this day our way lay on other party of Big Harbour. We went to Kospikua, to Vitorioz and Sengley.


At all not in Valletta billeted Knights of the Order of Malta when they arrived to Malta. To Vitorioz, more precisely St. Anzhelo`s Fort was besieged by Turks at the well-known Great Siege. When Valletta became the capital, Kottoner`s Lines, the defensive strengthenings which got the name by name the Great Master Orden of that time were erected. Since then Kospikua, Vitorioz and Sengley even in the heads of Maltese merged in one - in the concept “Three Cities“.

located one of sign symbols of Malta In the same place - Vedett`s tower. It is a round tower with which it is possible to survey Big Harbour. Over loopholes - symbols: eye, ear and bird.“ I see everything, I hear everything, everywhere I will find for you“.

the local fort, the palace of the inquisitor Photographed a local cathedral, Vedetta. The rest of day was spent on the beach. In the evening, near the Red tower which is already fallen in love to us, decided to arrange a barbecue. On the road glanced to the temple in the Bridge.


In general, Maltese very much like to surprise neighbors from other cities. Once inhabitants Bridges argued with the neighbors on that who has a church more abruptly. Dispute ended with a clear and unconditional victory mostyan - now they are happy owners of the temple with a dome which by the size takes the world`s third place. Then gozitanets tried to eclipse mostyan, but did not leave - their Shevkiya Rotonda only the third in Europe.

the Temple is magnificently beautiful

at evening lighting. Decided to arrive also in the afternoon, to take a picture of internal furniture.

Maltese - “mad barbekyuna“. The minimum of times a week, each family is chosen where - nibud pozhech - to fry something - to eat - to drink. And to talk. We decided to join local tradition.

Familiarizing took place

unsuccessfully. The day before on Friday, some freaks cleaned the automatic machine with aerated water exactly about the Red tower. We read about it in “Tayms“.

Morons are everywhere though, most likely, it is stray guest performers from the next Sicily.

Day the ninth, Sunday. Valletta, Village of Masters, a festival and Clapham Junction

In Valletta we did not get to the Fort of the Saint Elma and therefore returned here on Sunday. But the fort was closed again. Were with insult trampled around, photographed a sign, that the fort is closed in August for public visits in general. From a grief bought magnetics on the refrigerator with alyapisty images of the Maltese sights to all acquaintances. Also jerked to the Maltese village of Masters. If was impatient to buy souvenirs...

of Souvenirs in the village of Masters. But we arrived for half an hour before closing there - in 16. 30, and on many shops beheld the inscription “Closed“. Decided to arrive once again, to purchases.

not to lose day, was jerked to look at Clapham Junction.

If to look at Malta from the helicopter, then it is possible to see one surprising phenomenon. In the Southern part of Malta the huge number of furrows which cut stones is located, go in parallel each other, and very much remind prehistoric rails. In some places there are whole “shooters“ and “intersections“ (for example, Clapham Junction). Some “rails“ go directly to the sea and proceed there. There are no doubts that it is man-made constructions, but strikes their age - 6000 years, and also an ambiguity of their appointment. Any hypothesis of their origin is not recognized as well-founded yet.

impressed with

of Clapham Junction less megaliths, but all-... Were photographed on “rails“ and went home.

in the Evening to us was coming

a festival. This day, by a lucky chance, of a festival took place in Slim, and, therefore, near us.

Long looked for the parking - with this business on Malta hardly. At this time almost became deaf from fireworks. At this time by us dragged local Madonna`s statue, there passed the orchestra and crowd festuyushchy slimyan with tourists and guests. We ran afterwards, few times turned not to those lanes, sweated, but nevertheless overtook a train with Madonna on the approaches to church. It is proud got on some balcony and began to be waited.

At this time cunning priests already knocked down heavy Madonna on crying of simple citizens and tourists - Catholics. Under a general applause they slowly trudged to church.

Threw out couple more a shoe. Thongs tore.

Day the tenth, Monday. Fireplace

Especially about Kamino have nothing to tell

- a tiny island, in 2 kilometers. It is well-known for the “Blue lagoon“ - with a fine white sand and turquoise water. This day in a lagoon brought thousands of jellyfishes. Badly. But it was succeeded to be bought and sunbathe. Besides, we swept in the open boat, having disdained the very expensive advertized cruises. How thrilling!

Day the eleventh, Tuesday. Mdina and Rabat


- the city almost not a vein, there and thousands of inhabitants is not present. It is the old capital of Malta, to knights. It is adjoined closely by Rabat. We went exactly there.

In Mdin the whole nine churches. There is a number of the museums. Rabat is the religious center and Malta - St Paul`s catacombs and St. are located here. Agate, St Paul`s Cathedral with a grotto of his name. Still there is the Roman country house.

In Mdin visited the museum of tortures. Maltoveda warned us about some “state of shock“, “a sickening lump“ and other unpleasant consequences. Actually, the museum skuchnovat and exhibits with the cut-off hands - breasts - the heads - ears - languages became dusty. Estimating a professional sadomasochist look attributes, decided that now - shops that is more terrible to go to sex and.

From Mdina fortification. it is visible all island.

was Jerked in Pavlik and Agata`s catacombs. Peacocks of a catacomb will be more abruptly, but in Agatinykh there is a church of the eighth century, with frescos of the eleventh century. Agatina catacombs are up to the end not investigated, some places either are put by concrete blocks or closed by lattices. There were cases that tourists were lost here. In general catacombs inspire fear - all this cemeteries of the first Christians. However we did not give in to horror, and got into a prohibited zone. With cries “stand, the digger is lousy!“ we pulled out the friend - the friend from catacombs, but could not stop.

Got out through a couple of hours, covered with gray dust, hungry, but happy.

Day the twelfth, Wednesday. The market in Marsashlokke and elephants - dwarfs

Since morning our way lay in Marsashlokk. It is the small fishing settlement. Were going to descend for the local market, to buy souvenirs and to eat fish soup.

was Bought: gozitansky honey, tinned capers, pillowcases with the Maltese crosses. Were satisfied.

At restaurants in Marsashlokke of the price - lethal. Decided that we will eat fish soup and in Slim. Were upset a little.

From Marsashlokk went to Are Dalam.

This cave and museum. Very few tourists reach here as leave his visit the last days. Archeologists found in a cave dwarfish elephants and hippopotamuses, the sleepyhead - the overage, a turtle, and also the birds inhabiting the island 250 thousand years ago.

Especially it was pleasant to em small such slonenyshka, of the size of a small doggie. It is a pity that there are few reconstructed skeletons.

Day the thirteenth, Thursday. Village of masters and private winery.

the temple Dome in the Bridge did not get into a shot from within. Perhaps if on a floor to lay down...


In the village of masters at me made a silver filigree cross. I right there bought it. And here did not begin to buy mdinsky glass - in my opinion, it is petty-bourgeois. And, besides, I cannot all house under one vase remake however it was not beautiful. Bought a tiny glass small fish.

Then went to buy by

wine - near Mdina the lovely woman by the name of Mari - Rose treated us with a domestic wine and liqueurs. Bought several bottles, for 10 liras. We receive “in loading“ still a bottle of liqueur and fruits of cactuses - prickly pears - I always wanted to try them. Are similar to a kiwi, happen three flowers.

Day the fourteenth, Friday

Rural lands day we lie on the beach in Ghajn Tuffieha. The last day passes quickly. Climbed up the big rock. Decline. A look such that presses heart. I pay. My mood is transferred to the husband. Long we sit, having embraced.

after that we go to the center of the island and we photograph night Malta. Everything. And I pay again.

Day the fifteenth, Saturday. Farewell

B 7 of morning - the last bathing on Malta. In 18. 00 at us the plane. The last day we needed to visit cruise of the local monopolist, “Captain Morgan“. Cruise is called “An underwater safari“. At the boat - a transparent bottom. We spend the last hours on Malta, admiring beauty of reeves and a huge number of fishes. We float by Saint Pavel`s islands.

Further everything occurs almost run. Run - purchase of souvenirs, the crumpled delivery of number, delivery of the car, a transfer in the airport. From a plane board once again I survey Malta.

Painfully I want to buy

on Malta the house. Or maysont. Or though something inhabited.


I gather in the eyes again.

Malta, my love...

How to put into words that delight and that pain which overflows me? You reciprocated on my ardent passion, and now, in separation, my heart is torn to pieces. I write you this letter which you will never receive.

But I promise to return once again to have these feelings.

For the sake of which I always go to a way.