Heart in stones (the Maltese impressions). Part I
It was the biggest cobble-stone from all, me seen!
If weight - loss pleasant, shoes - loss tolerant, then heart... heart...Where to exchange you to look for
now? Where you, useless, it was lost? >
it did not drop out p at sharp decrease after four-hour flight? Or you was left in the karrotsena on slow streets of Valletta? Or Gzhantiya`s megaliths captivated you within the walls of five-thousand-year prescription? Or I left you in outer darkness in Saint Pavel`s catacombs? And, maybe, you it was necessary to soar forever under a cathedral dome in the Bridge? Or fell in waters of the Mediterranean Sea breaking mad splashes against rocks of Dingli who is tenderly licking strict stone and beautiful sandy beaches? Then I at all never will find you any more.
So, Malta, you remember how ours developed with you the relations? They were such difficult in the beginning...
Augustus, time of our arrival - the hottest season. There is practically no vegetation. All the time getting thirsty.do not have
On Malta the rivers. Drinking water is brought from Italy, household - freshened.
Wants to bathe.
Sandy beaches are, but it is not enough of them. All sandy beaches are removed from the majority of hotels. But there is a mass of stone beaches.
In effect, all Malta is just huge cobble-stone to which from all directions prisobachena of a short flight of stairs for descent in water.However water is magnificent
Thus, beach rest, in effect, disappears.
the Maltese archipelago consists of several islands, in total the able to go in in the territory of Moscow three times. Population density - the highest in Europe. Malta has the currency - the Maltese lira, one of the most expensive currencies of the world - costs three dollars now. On the Maltese archipelago there is a mass of sights, including the most ancient structures on the earth - Gzhantiya`s megaliths brought in the Guinness Book of Records. Huge number of constructions of the knightly period. Unique natural landscapes. But there are practically no works of the famous artists and sculptors, except for a cloth “Useknoveniya...“ Caravaggio which is stored in Saint Ioann`s cathedral in Valletta.
Day the first, Saturday. Forvards!
When we left the building of the airport of Loit, we understood that we were mistaken in the expectations. In a face hot air, hot and damp at the same time smelled. Somewhere nearby sea. But it is not visible. Rigid desert landscape. Cactuses - prickly pears, oleanders, very rare palm trees. Dry...
From a bus window to a look the surprising medieval fortresses which are filled in with the scorching sun, a huge number of cathedrals, and the tiny Maltese fields which are almost deprived of vegetation opened.
Lodged us in the center of happening life of Malta, Pachvil. But number silent and spacious.
is Sent to look for the beach. Found whole two - stone (simply huge heated stone plateau with ladders in water) and bulk - of five by five meters. Plank beds even on 5 liras (mentally we multiply by 3 dollars... well...) .
Got into water. Well!
of the Passport with the visa we were not given. Promised to bring on Tuesday.
Day of the second, Sunday. Adaptation
is Sent on foot in Slim (the city near us, the region of millionaires and health-resort visitors). Bathed on the city sandy beach - of two by two meters. Found one more huge stone plateau. Not to approach water - rocks are corroded mollusks. Surf. In terrible desire to bathe peeled knees.
of the House in Slim almost all new, is not enough churches. The city for vacationers. It is a lot of shops, cafe, souvenir shops. The prices umopomrachat.
three Passed in the general complexity something kilometer.
By the end of day shoulders burned down absolutely, began to look at the husband with the concealed desire to strangle him for the fact that it dragged me to this most boring hell full of tourist garbage and deprived of attributes kurortno - entertaining rest.
Day the third, Monday. Silent horror
I Cover shoulders with cream and I suffer. Bought a beach towel with a huge Maltese cross. It seems, it is required to me not soon.
Today on Malta - a holiday. Something there with Virgin Mary. Shops do not work. Transport almost does not go. On streets crowds of students are unsteady and shout.
Festivals on Malta - the most widespread holiday. In any village where there is a church, the Saint of this church is periodically celebrated. All festivals fall on a tourist season, there is what to look at, believe!by
On a family council on revision of the getting derailed rest, made the decision to rent a car.Lease of the car on Malta is fabulously cheap
. 7 - 12 liras - and you the happy owner of the small, but reliable machine. The rights will approach any. The driving experience of 3 years is necessary, the general age is more senior than 25 years and a credit card number - and well as you will smash something? The movement on Malta - left-side.
Day the fourth, Tuesday. Avtomobilchiki!
to us were brought by passports! The police department at last put down on them the stamps. I ask the aunt from a host about excursions in the Hypogay. The answer is unintelligible.
From this minute we gemmate from the guide finally.
the Hypogay - the underground temple going on several floors to depth. He is 4000 years old. At the lowermost level of the temple - tens of thousands of human skeletons. Still nobody definitely knows what the Hypogay intended for. There is, however, a version that in this vault passed tests of priestesses who professed a cult of Great Mother.
to Get there it is difficult - it is necessary to register during a tourist season in two weeks, and in not tourist - a minimum in a week.
we Go to rent a car. At the similar price, in 8,2 liras we get old, but strong “Peugeot 106“. The husband in panic - he never drove on the right! However it was reconstructed quickly. On the renting course, I was convinced of the relative fortress of the household English.
English - the second state on Malta. But, in spite of the fact that there are a lot of certified schools of English, Maltese here - those still experts.
our First excursion and the purpose - Tarshin`s megalith. On the road we hope to register in the Hypogay. Further - the Blue grotto.
Megalytic temples - the most ancient man-made constructions on Earth. The most known megalith on the planet Stonehenge (England) is considered. However the Maltese constructions is much more ancient, they are distinguished by a grouping of an arrangement and very large number. Tarshin is 4 temples, about 2100 - 2800 BC
the Blue grotto - local natural sight. There it is worth bathing, from - for transparent blue water. If to look down, the feeling shocking - you understand on what dizzy depth rocks go down...
did not manage to Register in the Hypogay to us. Bathing in a blue Grotto and driving by boats tired thoroughly. The husband once and for all changed opinion on roads of Moscow, roads in general, and a two-way road in particular. It appears, it can quite make two meters in width. And, nothing, the people part. One more local sight - asphalt of Malta. Such impression that here still expect saratsin and therefore put asphalt “in places and a little that any invader on approaches got stuck“. Decent roads are available too, but only in the center.
Day the fifth, Wednesday. Megaliths
Decided to find for two more ancient structures - to Mnaydr and Hadzhar Yim. After that were going to Dingli`s rocks.
Dingli`s Rocks - one more natural sight. Huge rocks from which the tremendous view of the sea far below and the small island - Fifl`s reserve opens.
Megaliths under the scorching sun are something! Tired, hungry we slowly went on the stony steppe nearly a kilometer under the scorching sun, and pleasure we should have touched shrines 3 liras for two.
On Dingli we practically crept. But - crept, looked down, were photographed.
is sent in the Evening to be impressed with the Maltese culinary counter - a fried rabbit.
Actually the kitchen on Malta does not apply for uniqueness. What country is the closest to the archipelago? Correctly, Italy, more precisely Sicily. Here also welcome pizzas and pastes in the Italian quantity. There is seafood, but they are not cheap. But great lot of cheap very tasty local pastries. Local wine - specific, very dry, besides, young. But liqueurs (read fruit fortified wines), very sweet and tasty, and their is a lot of types. There are several grades of local beer. And Kinni.
of Kinni is a usual carbonated drink, infused on bitter oranges and specially selected Maltese herbs, Kinnie has no analogs and anywhere, except Malta, is not on sale. On taste it is similar to Martini Rosso - with gas and without alcohol.the Rabbit turned out
stewed in local wine. Especially strongly did not impress - well a rabbit and a rabbit. And here wine was not pleasant to me - too sour. And Kinni was not pleasant to me. But the husband concealed secret thought to clean local dyyut - fr on this drink.
Day of the sixth, Thursday. Valletta
of the Jack met us by attempt of “throwing on the grandma“ on the parking.have not enough
of Officially paid parkings on Malta, and those which are - many-tier and completely automatic. All others - “informally“ paid parkings, in the form of the man raising money. In case of refusal the car can suffer from an exaction, but uncles kind and compliant - it is possible to beat down the price strongly.the valet approached
of Very odious look us, told that he the parking paid and demanded lira. There was no wish to bargain. The husband stretched a piece of paper in 2 liras.
in reply the man put to it 10 cents and asked: “Normally?“ . Probably, did not expect that among a durilok - tourists greedy Russians come across. We scratched the remained 90 cents and spread to the city.
Valletta is the capital of Malta. City of ideal planning: if to look from height of bird`s flight, then it is similar to a chessboard. The medieval city surrounded with magnificent gardens. From Barrakk`s gardens the wonderful view of Big harbor opens. It is a lot of finest churches. There are practically no modern houses in Valletta. It is the city in which time forever died.the City inspires
. From the very first sekundochka of stay in it. Across Valletta it is almost impossible to move by car, but it did not afflict us at all. We went on narrow small streets, came into cafe, cathedrals and the museums. Day flew by as if there passed 5 minutes. Visited: John the Baptist`s cathedral, the museum of Archeology, Armory in the palace where the ancient weapon, church Karmelitok (the highest dome in Valletta), Anglican church, and also uncountable number of shops and cafes is stored. Decided that we will return still.
As lack of beach rest is a little of us all - strained, we decided in the late afternoon to go to bathe on the sandy beach. From this day nearly an every evening at us is a visit of the new beach.
was Chosen the most recommended by maltoveda and the most thrown from known because of inaccessibility - Ghajn Tuffieha.All beaches of Malta (except beaches at hotels) are available and free
, buses go there. It is a lot of stone beaches. From sandy bays the largest on the main island are:
- of Mellieha Bay - the largest bay, gray sand, turquoise water, paradise for children
- of Golden Bay - golden sand, but is a lot of to people
- of Ghajn Tuffieha - paradise for adults
- of Gnejna Bay - a little unpleasant entrance to water - stones. It is possible to float with flippers and a mask.
- brightly - orange sand and transparent water. Quite high waves. In these waves naprygatsya to a hiccups, and jerked home.
On the road was wrapped on the Red tower. This monument is almost not mentioned in guides, and in vain. He is beautiful at night. It seems that now from where - nibud the count Dracula will take off. We stand, having embraced, night, the moon...
of the Romantic!
Day of the seventh, Friday.As I already told
to Gozo - Malta is an archipelago. There enters, besides the main island, one more big island - Gozo and several islands more small.we chose
For visit Gozo and Kamino - two main island sights of the archipelago.
Today our way lay on Gozo`s island, through ferr (ferry). For this purpose it was necessary to jump out of the house at 7 in the morning to manage to go round all.
On Gozo a huge number of sights. There is own capital - the city of Victoria (Rabat). In Victoria there is a Citadel - the finest fortress of the archipelago. Also on Gozo there are most ancient constructions on the earth constructed for 1000 to the Egyptian pyramids. These are Gzhantiya`s temples built near the 3600th year BC. On Gozo there is also the most magnificent church of the archipelago - That to Ping, the most beautiful beach of the archipelago (that which usually entice trustful fans of beach rest) - Ramla Bey. Directly the natural cave of Calypso looks at Ramla. Exactly here, in captivity at fine nymphs, Odysseus ““pined“. It Dotomitsya“ to four sons, joint with Calypso.
treat natural sights: small, but very beautiful stalactite cave the Grotto Sheriz (the private museum), the Closed sea, and the well-known Azure Window - the biggest natural stone arch in the world.can buy
On Gozo curative local honey, tinned capers, cheese of a dzhabeyn (soft goat cheese). The best and expensive handiwork is made on Gozo. This gozitansky decorative glass and laces.Travel on ferr took place
well. Earlier I never went by the ferry. It refused such “pull - push“ in which belly cars are stored, and on main decks people sit and show fingers.
Weather slightly deteriorated, the sky clouded clouds. It made our visit of Gzhantiya not such extreme. Amazing place. On ancient plates - Vasya“ was graffiti in English, similar on “here. Only having looked narrowly, understood that graffiti are made in 18 - ohm a century. It suppresses. Here even graffiti belong to the died people long ago.
After Gzhantiya was jerked in the Grotto Sheriz. This place is unfairly bypassed by guides. History such is. One Maltese uncle decided to dig to himself an artesian well. In spite of the fact that Gozo, in general, “is more green“ than the main island of the archipelago, all the same it is not enough water. At a depth of 10 meters the man in passing dug out a cave with stalactites and stalagmites. Now his grandson shows a cave to everyone for one lira. It was pleasant to us.
From the Grotto Sheriz went to Calypso`s cave. The look from an entrance to a cave opens on a bay Ramla - a fantastic look, but strong wind. Got into a cave with a lamp.
One or the other - or this Calypso was a magnificent beauty and Odysseus umopomrachitsya thoroughly, or Odysseus in this cave from it hid. Cave so-so. And, in principle, in it rain water has to get to the corresponding period. Br - r - river.
Bathed in a bay Ramla and went to the Citadel.the Citadel is awful
. It is depressing unapproachable. At once it was a pity for Turks and pirates. It is possible to climb on such walls only from a full hopelessness or the general underdevelopment.
In the main cathedral of the Citadel the wedding of some serious local prepared.“ Rolls - roysa“ and “Maseratis“ commanded respect. In pass of a cathedral blue ribbons are attached. We decided not to disturb intending spouses, and went to have a bite.
After having a snack and tasting of local cheese, went to the village of Masters. Generally their two - one on Malta, another - on Gozo. In gozitansky bought a lacy fan, a napkin from handwork lace, a shawl from hair of the Maltese goats.
of Time was almost 7th evenings. Urgently moved to the Closed sea and the Azure window. There, on Zacthose, the boatman took for a drive us on “luzza“ (such lupoglazenky boat), for only 3 liras for two. Remained with the Azure window to enjoy a decline.
Home, to Malta, floated in the dead of night. Sea, moon, and far fires of islands. If I once again get out to appointment to you, Malta, then I will change you with Gozo. From revenge for stolen heart. And for pair of sports boots with the soles which flew away absolutely!