Ten days in St. Petersburg
What is necessary for happiness for two ladies liking to travel - mother and her ten-year-old daughter? Train tickets “Youth“, relatives in the Northern capital and, of course, dreams. Dream of mother - again to meet one of the most favourite cities and “to present“ it to the daughter. Dream of the daughter - to see the city about which heard so much (from girlfriends and relatives) which is familiar according to movies about which read in books. And here - we in St. Petersburg!
Day the first
Weather - Petersburg. It accompanied us all ten days of our stay therefore I will write about it everything at once. Raincoats, umbrellas and reliable footwear always were at us and repeatedly “were useful“ to us. But even more our strong belief that weather in any its manifestations is not capable to spoil to us mood from a meeting with the wonderful city was useful. It (i.e. mood) was also not spoiled!
So, at first we went to a sightseeing tour on the city. I (as it appeared - fondly) believed that the professional guide will better acquaint my daughter with the city, than I will be able to make it. The trouble is that we looked for professionals not where it is necessary. It was necessary at Palace Square, and we “fell into a trap“ at the Nevsky Avenue subway. As a result of an hour and a half excursion we listened to flat jokes half-drunk uncles, and the only positive result was the fact that at the end it led us without turn to Cabinet of curiosities. There we examined “a Petrovsky collection“ (however, contemplation of various uglinesses was not especially pleasant) and ethnographic expositions.I Will notice
that at visit of all museums I did not seek “to embrace immensity“, and wanted to give to the daughter a general idea about their contents. Therefore even plans “what to look at“ were very approximate. Also we left the museum at once if felt that we were already tired and we lose sharpness of feelings.
After visit of Cabinet of curiosities we have dinner, have a rest and waited a rain in a cafe at Palace Square, and then went to Moika, 12, to the last apartment of Pushkin. Here survey of the museum was followed by interesting excursion. In general, as it seemed to me, in St. Petersburg museum work is put on higher level, than in Moscow. In very many museums purchase of the ticket grants to you the right for excursion service, in museum halls the various technical novelties especially interesting to children are applied.
Day of the second
Since morning we went to the Hermitage. The turn, of course, was, but quite tolerant, stood minutes 15 - 20. Then wandered about halls, feeling, according to the daughter, “as the smith Vakula“ (see Gogol “Evenings on the farm near Dykanka“) on reception at Catherine the Great. Especially it were pleasant to Polina Lodzhiya of Raphael, and “the Hours which here struck me in the childhood the Peacock“ did not make special impression on “the child of a computer century“. And, of course, even in a condition of extreme fatigue the daughter could not but find a mummy of the Egyptian priest (hi the “Ancient history“ studied last academic year)we ate
After the Hermitage and have properly a rest in a public garden (in general we followed Jack London`s advice - big transitions and big breaks for rest). Then slowly, with stops moved on other coast of Neva, to the Peter and Paul Fortress. Took a look at newlyweds on spit of Vasilevsky Island. In the Peter and Paul Fortress at once several museums, but “torture chambers“ are closed, now restore them. We looked at a Petrovsky batic in the Botny house, saw burials of the Russian emperors in a cathedral. Very much the museum of history of St. Petersburg in the Commandant`s house and an exposition in the Engineering house was pleasant. Polina with pleasure listened in each hall of news from “rare“ telephone sets, looked presented in the television movie form - the comic book of reform of Alexander the Second, looked in windows of “the profitable house“. Good fellows, art dealers, with what invention everything is made! Still we visited Pechatna, visited a secret passage, and here and on fortifications did not want to go to the museum of rocketry any more. But with pleasure sat at the Nevsky water under fortress walls.Day the third the First half of day we carried out
in the Russian Museum where there was no turn and crowds of the people in halls at all, to our pleasure, was not observed. Then we reached the Mikhailovsky Castle (branch of the Russian Museum there), wanted to come, but learned from the cashier that memorial rooms a little therefore decided to give preference to walk on fresh air here is restored, the benefit the weather at this moment was solar. Moved on Fontanka Embankment, admired Chizhyk-Pyzhik and came to the Summer garden. Examined antique heroines, heroes, goddesses and gods. On memoirs they seemed to me such snow-white, and now - some grayish. Perhaps this already senile?
Here, in the Summer garden, is stood by the Summer Palace of Peter the Great. For “unorganized visitors“ there are no excursions, but we perfectly examined everything, using the “cribs“ which are hanged out in each hall. The daughter was struck by the device for measurement of force and the direction of wind and Pyotr`s toilet, and I very much liked a drawing room with a collection of east rarities. We were lucky again - there were very few visitors.
After a lunch and rest we decided to drive on “the rivers and canals“, the benefit invite to these walks at every turn. We also went to the next corner - to the Griboyedovsky channel. However everything appeared not so - that simply: the offer, speaking to economic language habitual to me, obviously exceeded demand. Generally, we half an hour sat in proud loneliness on some vessel, listening to speeches of the barker. Then it bothered us also we, having used the hint of the kind girl - the organizer of excursions, went through Neva (“for a mad dog seven versts not a hook“) to the Peter and Paul Fortress where without any expectations went to swimming. On the way of us drenched wind with the Nevsky water, then watered a pouring rain, but the portion of pleasure we received. And after the end of excursion approached the place of execution of Decembrists in whom the daughter now very much is interested.
Day the fourth
From Nevsky Avenue metro station went to St. Isaac`s Cathedral, but on the way approached the Admiralty. Here, in Aleksandrovsk to a garden, found an interesting monument to Przhevalsky with a camel (why not with a horse?) approached also Bronze Horseman.
At Isaakiya`s cash desks invited tourists on bus excursion “A cathedral ring“. We decided to go what we did not regret then a little about: both in the bus, and in all cathedrals tours were conducted at the highest level. We visited four cathedrals: Sampsonyevsky, Smolny, Saviour - on - Blood, Iskaakivsky, excursion lasted four and a half hours.the Sampsonyevsky monastery the carved iconostasis of a fresco - an icon of all Saints is interesting to
B. And still there remained graves Volynsk and Eropkina and whom Polina read in “The ice house“ recently (Volynsk - the main character).
In Smolny Cathedral we not only got acquainted with history of its creation, but also saw the exhibition devoted to pupils of Smolny of institute.
Ya saw a set of cathedrals and churches, but Saviour mosaics - on - the Blood (executed according to sketches of many great artists including Nesterova and Vasnetsov) just shake imagination. However, as well as the fact that in Soviet period the cathedral was repeatedly tried to be demolished as not being of art value.we reached by
St. Isaac`s Cathedral already decently tired, but with honor sustained also excursion on it, and ascension on a colonnade with which the remarkable view of the city opens.
After rest in Aleksandrovsk to a garden we went to a foot walk across Griboyedov Canal. By the way, here before our eyes the fisherman got within five minutes of two rudds, and in general in all rivers and channels of the city pros that herds moves any fish trifle. I hope, it is an indicator of good ecology.
Having stroked all monsters on Bankovsky Bridge, having seen enough of water and fishermen, we arrived to Kazan Cathedral. In a cathedral there was a service, very beautiful.
Day the fifth
Having been tired to wait for faultless weather, we went to Tsarskoye Selo. The benefit, from our relatives where we lived, there (as well as to Pavlovsk) is very convenient to reach - it is only necessary to pass on foot to an electric train, then 15 minutes - and we already in Pushkino.the Catherine Palace to us very much was pleasant to
. Tourists the set, but was necessary to stand in a queue only minutes 15, everything is very accurately organized. And what beauty inside! Of course, with special awe waited for a meeting with the Amber room, maybe, from too big expectations the impression was not too strong. Some naked the fourth seems, not filled with amber panels, a wall.
Then we had a rest in Aleksandrovsk park, sat on shops, climbed up Mount Parnassus, fed ducks in a pond. Having properly had a rest, went to excursion to the Aleksandrovsky palace, the residence of the last Russian tsar. And then wandered about Catherine Park, admiring arbors, bridges, statues.
Day of the sixth
in the Morning we went to Aleksandro - the Nevsky Monastery, bypassed necropolises with excursion, came also into a cathedral. Interesting at us the summer turns out, on travel irrespective of us some mysterious logic is built. In July we were in Ipatiev Monastery from where Romanov` dynasty, and here, in St. Petersburg began, we saw Romanov` burials (including the last) in Peter and Paul Cathedral. Or Tchaikovsky - in July we were in the house where he was born, in Votkinsk, and here, in a necropolis, stood at its gravestone:
After excursions and rest (on a small bench in Monastery) we went on foot across the Nevsky. Went slowly, admiring beautiful buildings, having a rest in public gardens, being photographed at equestrian statues on Anichkovy Bridge. Then curtailed on Moika Embankment and reached Yusupov Palace. Bought tickets for excursion on ceremonial halls (that there is still a “historical“ excursion, about Rasputin`s murder, I learned then, but anyway for Polina, perhaps, such subject would be too gloomy). Time before excursion was spent at a favourite monument to Przhevalsky. In Yusupov Palace (they, by the way, too ours “old acquaintances“ - on Arkhangelsk and to Koreiz) private theatricals and a Mauritian drawing room especially struck us.
Day of the seventh
Despite considerable overcast, decided to go to Peterhof. While stood in a queue on the bus (at the Baltic station), we were watered by a rain, but in Peterhof the sun shone. And we solved - any palaces! Only park! I do not know whether this decision was correct, but long turns reached for the museums, and the sun shone so brightly, water in the gulf so shone, greens of hills were so juicy, so inviting the children poured by water from fountains - crackers squealed that we shirked on park four hours with the great pleasure, though to the detriment of the intellectual development. And back to St. Petersburg went on a meteor, on the gulf. Moreover then, on the way from pier at Aurora to metro station admired the huge blue mosque!
Day of the eighth
Again “exit day“. This time - Pavlovsk. Crude park with a set of russulas, ruins on the place of the former Kursaal, the strange small river the Slav, ponds, the smiling lions and centaurs, the silvery willows and ancient Greeks who hid on dark avenues. Rain and sun, nature and thin calculation of the landscape architect. Pavel`s palace with ceremonial halls, wonderful palace church, living rooms of the emperor and empress, the Pink pavilion: Generally, we regretted only that magic day quickly came to an end, and we did not manage to take a walk in distant parts of park, to drive by boats and by bicycles which could be hired.
Day the ninth
the Ninth day in St. Petersburg, and sphinxes was still not seen! Horror! The matter is that in a gymnasium Polina had a so-called elective course “Seven Wonders of the World“ at the end of which studying children prepared the project: broke into three groups: Egyptians, Babylonians, Greeks, also protected everyone the civilization. Polina got a role of the Pharaoh Cheops which - which of girls - “Egyptians“ already visited Egypt (at pyramids) and St. Petersburg (at sphinxes), and interestingly about all this told. But our routes lay far from the Egyptian statues so far. However, we somehow passed by excursion bus by Shemyakin`s sphinxes, but they did not satisfy Polina in any way. Therefore we since morning went to Vasilyevsky Island a bit earlier.
on the way to Academy of Arts is sent in church of Three Prelates and in the Andreevsky cathedral (a wonderful carved iconostasis). And here they, sphinxes. Were photographed - under big, obgladit small and even bought the awful plaster copy. Entire happiness!
Then we examined the Menshikovsky palace, and tour was conducted for us and one more mother with two children. Having had a rest in a public garden at the Menshikovsky palace, we on foot went by spit of Vasilevsky Island, by the Peter and Paul Fortress to Cabin of Peter the Great - the first building of St. Petersburg. The lodge was examined, without excursion. Then went to Aurora, all oblazit outside and inside. Then - march - a throw through Neva in the Summer garden, rest under statues, a lunch, feeding of ducks - pigeons - sparrows, a foot walk across Fontanka and the Nevsky to the subway. Houses - a farewell dinner.
Day the tenth, the lastAll good sometime comes to an end in
. Having had breakfast, we put on the habitual backpacks which are seeing off us relatives help to bear a bag, and we go to the last excursion. Relatives live near Victory park, but we did not see it yet. We say goodbye to St. Petersburg and to Leningrad (the park is broken on the brick-works place where during blockade burned bodies of the dead of Leningrad residents). To us it is sad - we leave the city which we “love, for the fact that to us it is not dull with it“. We will surely return, we so much were not in time yet, did not see. Good-bye!