Far from noise city (traditions of a country lunch). Part 1
What has to be a country lunch? - that it was possible for ambulances, having prepared in two hours on eighteen people, to go to sunbathe? Or - in noble traditions, on kuznetsovsky plates, with six changes of dishes? Both options have the right for existence.
Whatever you had a giving - a modest lodge on six hundred parts or the lordly estate on the bank of Volga, - accommodation on it obliges to five times food. Rose - you drink coffee on the sun. Woke up - you start a breakfast. Then lunch, by itself. After rest - by all means an afternoon snack. (An afternoon snack - it is very touching. As though you still small as though mother went to the wood until you slept, gathered wild strawberry, took out rural cream from the refrigerator, filled in berries and called to have an afternoon snack. And cookies on a table cost. And you needed only to fill sugar, five spoons. For the sake of such happiness it is possible to stay half an hour to himself mother.) Well and, certainly, without dinner not to fall asleep in any way.
the Main characters
the Unconditional heroine of a summer season - chicken. But what about it to write? Already all wrote. Chicken - it and at the African dacha chicken. Dishes weight, principle one: good chicken has to be much. Or it is told about macaroni?.Macaroni is especially good
at the dacha cold, in the form of salad. A plain jar of a tuna, tonenko the cut bulb, couple of cucumbers and the tablespoon of mayonnaise added in boiled and watered with vegetable oil (that did not stick together) fuzill or horns, - and here to you a full-fledged dinner. And to hot macaroni it is possible to make gas station of any grass growing in a kitchen garden quickly. Spinach, parsley, cilantro, a basil - everything to chop up small - small, to add some garlic, to extinguish a couple of minutes and to pour generously polished firm cheese.
It is fine, about chicken we will write too. For a change we will prepare our layer on - Moroccan. Chop it on portion pieces, fry them to a golden crust and lay out on a plate. In that frying pan where chicken was fried, throw the crushed onions and garlic, add water or broth - about a liter, cinnamon, a curry, a turmeric, a zira, pepper and salt (in equal proportions) and extinguish minutes five. Then put chicken and vegetables again: sweet pepper, carrots, zucchini - that you want. And minutes through ten - tomatoes, prunes and raisin. Close a cover and make fire less. In ten minutes your Moscow region Moroccan will be ready. Give it with couscous or rice.the main country soup were and remain
A green Russian cabbage soup. Here, say, the girlfriend of the sun of the Russian poetry, the maid of honor of the empress Smirnova A. O. wrote in memoirs literally the following:“ Though in the summer we had a court lunch, quite good, I nevertheless liked to have dinner at Pushkin. At them served green hard-boiled eggs soup, chopped big cutlets with spinach or a sorrel and, on dessert, - jam from a white gooseberry“. Editors, probably, will tell that two quotes in a row are a search, but I will afford... Chekhov everything is:“ At two o`clock a lunch, but that for a lunch! Imagine that you, hungry as a wolf, sit down to a table, you are enough a big shot glass of a leaflet and you have a snack on hot corned beef with horse-radish. Then imagine okroshka or green Russian cabbage soup with sour cream etc. etc. After a lunch serene lying, reading the novel“. Here than the classic tugs at especially heartstrings, so it the novel and without - mya - tezh - ny lying. Does not pull at the dacha to watch soap operas! There is a wish to read, and by all means lying, - something easy that through ten will fall minutes on a breast and will not wake.
However, we spoke about Russian cabbage soup. Russian cabbage soup summer is made of a sorrel which across all our immense territory the great variety grows. The wild sorrel is even better, than house: in it, of course, it is more acid, but is what to chew. Besides a sorrel the pan with green Russian cabbage soup calls and attracts any grass which is considered as edible: spinach, nettle, dandelions and orach. At our place all this was cooked on potato broth, but it is even better to make broth from korenyev and only then to put potato. And greens - right at the end, one couple of minutes prior to removal of the raging saucepan from fire. Green Russian cabbage soup is good universality. If a heat - you eat cold; - you will warm a rain with the hail, you will put sour creams, an egg half - and is not worse at all.
(Also and kissels. It is possible warm, it is possible - ice. Also are very good with whipped cream. Or just with cream, even not boiled, risen to can top from the pair milk which stood in the refrigerator. Kissels are popular. And where still you will put blackcurrant ton if to consider that you already dried the previous ton, welded and rolled up? On kissels there is small, “awful on the person“ a late remontantny wild strawberry, a sea-buckthorn, a guelder-rose, wild berry stone bramble... For a change it is possible to add apples - excellent kissels turn out on apple broth - and a rhubarb.)
to Soup... more cold!
Okroshka is in general separate... not the song even, and whole cantata. Words and music national. Each nation finds a hot way out in own way. Spaniards - by means of a gazpacho, French in general cease to eat, Americans dilute hamburgers a large number of the cook - stakes with ice. The Russian nation - it is obvious, from economy of the place in a cellar - united the first, second and “compote“ in one dish. What remained since yesterday - crumbled, filled in with kvass. The lunch is ready. However, I was raised by okroshka on kefir - and I do not perceive another. Moreover, in June, 1987 my fatal acquaintance to crabsticks took place. Since then I do okroshka only with them and did not meet still any person whom this circumstance would not suit.But I do not draw
on anything. Okroshka - business especially personal, even intimate, especially if you cook it at the dacha where blood relatives after midday badminton will sweep away everything that you offer them. And with the same chicken okroshka is done, both with sausages, and with language veal, and with fish. And instead of habitual kvass or kefir desperately pour a cucumber brine, vegetable broth and sour Russian cabbage soup. Okroshka on home-made cider, with apples is even mentioned in one literary work...
In my opinion, the main okroshechny rule - a combination of different tastes and textures. The radish that was sharp, and potato fresh. The cucumber that crackled, and egg white gently thawed. And still okroshka has to be drawn. At least an hour two on cold. Better - night. However, some adhere to the opposite principles: crumbled, filled in, ate. Speak, otherwise the product turns sour. And in my opinion, does not turn sour, and becomes impregnated and it is mutually flavored.
the Same history and with other cold soups - for example, with botviny or beetroot soup. The ancient Russian festive did to a botvinye with fish - but cooked everything separately, otherwise the fish soup spoiled by beet would turn out. Beet was baked, and then cooked, broth was cooled, added vegetables and put a very young tops of vegetable; on a big general plate served the white fish of noble blood boiled on couple; on the center of a table put a silver bowl with small pinned ice. By the end of summer country soups (both okroshka, and to a botvinye) quite often did on a fruit drink of white or red currant: berries were mashed a wooden tolkushka, filled in with cold water, brought to boiling, cooled and filtered through a gauze.