Rus Articles Journal

Gagra - the city on the mountain. Part I


Gagra - the city on the mountain, and there smells of eucalyptuses...

the Smell of an eucalyptus was everywhere, huge trees with trunks, smooth, free from bark, a harmonous rank stand along the main road Gagra - Nartaa Street (the route Moscow - Sukhumi). If to look narrowly, then among them it is possible to find two special eucalyptuses - silvery.

the Smell amplified when burned the sun or after a rain. It changed a little coloring when on streets swept away and burned down eucalyptus leaves. He lodged at us on a verandah when neighbors dragged armfuls of fragrant branches and hanged out over a handrail - to dry and take away home.

Why we do not remember this smell last year? Probably, when we were in Gagra last summer, was still cool, and eucalyptuses did not smell...

We come back

In Adler our way of recognition began. This road we passed almost exactly a year ago, but then we went for the first time - looking back and groping a way:. Now we precisely knew where and how to move.

However, we go to a week later. But also, this year is warmer so, the season already practically began. In last trip we opened it...

the Minibus from the station to Psou rose in price - costs 9 rubles against 7 - mi last year`s:. There are minibuses a continuous stream, the private traders trying to pull out visitors with suitcases and to persuade to go there by car, but for 100 or 150 rubles cause bewilderment. Even if you have heavy things, then on transition to border they for 10 rubles will be taken on the cart. Terminals work at border round the clock (yes it seems last year they already too were not closed for the night), the delay did not happen even for several minutes. However, the vigilant customs officer sitting at the terminal at a tape where the baggage is illuminated asked and what it at us it at the bottom of a bag - whether an icon, hour?? But it was quite satisfied with an oral explanation that there the printed book downloaded from the Internet (a samizdat, oh lies!) .

the Minibus from Psou to Gagra - 30 rubles instead of 25 - ti last year`s. At the exit from transition the index to the right, under the bridge, there, where minibuses nest. There is a lot of minibuses - both to Gagra, and to Pitsunda. Even to Gudauta! We look at family which went with us from the station, they are loaded to Gudauta - to see, eat and there now vacationers:. However, they should wait long - we already drive off, and in the minibus they are one so far.

Gagra! Familiar stop “Pavilion“. I run to greet the sea. Calm... Water is transparent to there, there is enough dokud a look.

We lodged

to owners we fall down the head without the prevention. The mobile phone was not known, via the switchboard of Gagra something did not phone and did not try especially - a season, it seems, still right at the beginning, thought that the place will be. Also were at once punished! Our favourite room where we lived last year, is occupied! And the main thing - it is occupied by children who arrived, having read my report:. Such here “se la vi“.

But owners remember us and are glad to us - at once conduct to drink coffee, and right there and wines pour, and there and tell that they started in action the neighboring house - and there too the second floor, both too a verandah, and it is even more, than here, and too a medlar under a window, and too a view of the sea and on mountains. In total indeed! And still there a fresh parquet in rooms and new beds. However, to kitchen (and the refrigerator with tangerine juice!) far, but separate kitchen for that house in plans for this summer. The electric kettle there already is. And the refrigerator, perhaps, will appear already very soon. The house is two-storeyed. There four double rooms (two adjacent).

the Bathroom in the new house now one - on the first floor, but in plans already of the near future was commissioning and the second - on the second floor.

Rimma still works with

in militia. She to us made registration in no time, however, this time the Russian militiamen in Adler were not interested in it. Roma repaired the neighboring house (in which we also lived) - it does everything by the hands there - from water pipes and a parquet to shifoner. Rimma cooked to us a hominy with cheese from buffalo milk (aylydzh) and the most tasty coffee, and Roma gave to drink wine and fried shish kebabs. And what tkemala sauce at Rimma! Owners told about the events in the country, about elections of last year, about current reforms much. Expect positive changes from the new power, and, it seems, they already are.

the Medlar under a window was exposed to my nightly attacks.

On a master`s porch there lived a cat with kittens. On our verandah the bird whom, for the fact that she built a nest over a knife switch, we nicknamed electric nested. Baby birds hatched and grew before our eyes.

And here it is Gagra

I at once - in familiar places.

, we did not see such transparent sea yet:. And several days later the sea worried - kuvyrkat, knocked down, swung and rolled on crests of waves. After a while unexpectedly frightened of ice water. And next day was warm and lazy again...

the Beach of the thrown sanatorium guaranteed to

a relative bezlyudnost, the shelkovichny tree gave a shadow ashore and treated with berries. In empty park of sanatorium squirrels ran on huge coniferous trees, on a palm tree trunk, clinging claws, and clinked, swearing on the fact that I eat their mulberry.

Falls on the small river Tsekherea - of course, does not have it, last year waters was much more. But a lake on its place still blue and transparent. We ran again there after each rain, but the high water did not come...

the Zhoekvarsky gorge - there, as well as last year, very beautifully, but too much less water. A year ago we hardly on a wire got over through a mad stream, in they are having forded the small river and having passed about kilometer, came across the Field with couple of vacationers:. The car got there where last year and on foot - that was difficult to be passed.

Gagrsky park is put in order - cut down dry trees, cut bushes, restore paths. It is interesting when start a kanatka to the top sanatoria....

the Market, silent first, every day of our stay in Gagra all shumny became more and more expensive, more and more, sensitively reacting to increase in number of visitors. In couple of days we understood that it is necessary to be bought urgently by spices that was wanted to be made first before departure. Not to take itself for a ride, understanding use subtleties, at once ordered “Universal seasoning“ what to us the picturesque Georgian also filled multi-colored layers in packages, having mixed everything that it had:. The smell of the Caucasus stood at us in the room all the time, it also is now felt - already at home... Very tasty tangerine juice. In the market it sweet - divorced sugar syrup. The hostess brought us then real - from the aunt, prepared not for sale, and for herself - it as the real tangerine.

And where to eat

of Rits

“Ritsa“ - cafe near the Pavilion. A remarkable balcony overlooking the sea, we drank every morning coffee there, thinking out plans for the beginning day. It is a pity that in “Ritsa“ there is any more no waitress Katya who fed us last year 9. Nina everything is somehow sleeps on a clothes line, perhaps... And the others as well as Katya are good. Changes work every other day.

Wine this year in “Ritsa“ was only white (in general, last year there was a grapes crop failure therefore wine is slightly more expensive, than last year - the liter in any cafe costs 100, as a rule, rubles) and, in our opinion, not really successful is one of the reasons why to have dinner we ordinary went to other places. Well, besides during the lunchtime the sun shines from the sea and on a balcony strongly scorches. However, one little table costs in a fig shadow - if carries on it to get.

the Cat living in “Ritsa“, lazy and not hungry.

the Breakfast (the huge ESA and two most tasty coffee) cost us 50 rubles. To a yoka gave two devices though I ate it always one. Probably, laughed at my gluttony.

Caucasian cuisine to

It was very pleasant to

that the waitress recognized in us last year`s clients.

of Change in “Caucasian cuisine“ change in 15 days, and, all changes - waitresses, the cook (judging by distinctions in preparation of dishes), apparently, even the owner. The first change gave to drink white wine - it tasty, drunk though all of us equally love red more. And the second change delivered marvelous red sparkling - very tasty.

of Kharcho - 45 rubles, solyanka - 50. Tasty! Smoked meat - 45 rubles (200 grams, but are worse, than in Nart, and only 200 - gram portions), tkemat red to me not really it was pleasant. Usually tasty fresh bread. Fried cheese this year for some reason did not impress - the ESA better.

Very hungry dog resorts to elicit tips from visitors from the subthrown sanatorium “Gagra“. The local cat wishes to eat something too, but not to eat itself, so though to elicit for a dog.


last year left to Apatskh`s

in Nart not really good impression. That is, it is very beautiful, pleasant and convenient there (separate cabins from palm leaves directly ashore), but there was an impression that we were shortchanged time in two:. Therefore now we doubted whether it is worth going there, however came and did not regret. Wine there exclusive, black, sparkling, almost sparkling. It and last year was pleasant to us. And in it, considering a last year`s grape crop failure, was in general remarkable. And the main thing, this time we ate for what this place - smoked meat from a tkemala is famous. It was surprisingly tasty and, generally, absolutely cheap. Meat (100 grams) - 30 rubles. Solyanka is good too. It is a pity only that kharcho do not cook there - not the Abkhazian this dish.

the Magnolia

Is cafe is located in anticipation of restaurant Gagripsh (it already in not inhabited places) and intended, probably, not for daily food, and for public, voznameryavsheysya to come off. We came there incidentally in the afternoon and were the only visitors.

For the sake of us to two children who prepared firewood for a shish kebab for most this “Magnolia“, unmercifully buzzing a saw, it was told not to buzz. The very young waitress in kitchen was trained how to remove the handle for a back, giving us a plate (we heard it from - for the opened doors). Meat “on-it is Abkhazian“ was very tasty. Wine pleasant. The waitress, giving a dish, showered with fine gesture a hand for a harmonous back.

But threw us when calculating twice. The meat marked in the menu of 50 rubles of 100 grams was counted as 100 rubles (i.e. 200 grams though usually bring the quantity specified in the menu if another is not stipulated), however, and brought it and really much. The shish kebab specified in the menu as 90 rubles for 200 grams was brought by these most 200 grams. But counted two times - i.e. estimated even at 180 rubles. As a result we sank on money sharply and unexpectedly, and nearly exceeded amount of cash in a pocket - would remain to wash there in slavery, the dishes.