We dye hair of
Beautiful hair - dense and brilliant - at all times were considered as the best decoration of the woman. But modern ladies most often do not accept the color given by the nature. Women continually try to change it or to correct at least. How to make it it is correct, without prejudice to appearance and own health?
the Choice of color
the Current trend in color is an aspiration to receiving natural shades. Irrespective of why hair is dyed - from desire to hide a gray hair or with the decorative purpose - it is necessary to seek for creation of natural tones. For example, fair-haired it is better to give preference to warm shades - golden, pepelno - fair-haired, Titian. The pure “pergidrolny“ type does not fit at all into modern fashion as looks unnaturally.the Hairdress and a hair color corresponding to color and a shape of a face emphasize with
identity of the person. Changing style of a hairdress, it is possible to come to need to change color or an arrangement of the clarified locks. But at the same time you should not forget that, for example, light locks in front visually integrate features and vice versa.Ways of hair-dyeing
- Clarification - it obtaining new color is lighter than
at least on one tone. Considerable destruction of a pigment results that gives the chance to paint hair in lighter of tone. It is so possible to call also removal of paint from earlier dyed hair or correction of color. Clarification is used for a loosening of a scaly layer to facilitate penetration of parts of dye into an inside layer of hair.
- Decolouration - the highest extent of clarification. The pigment is exposed to final fracture and becomes colourless. It can be both independent process, and preparatory in case of coloring is many steps lighter.
- Colouring - receiving a new hair color by oxidation of tsvetoobrazuyushchy components and replacement of a natural pigment artificial.
- Toning - easy change of a hair color, giving of deeper shade to them, the natural pigment at the same time is not mentioned.
- Highlighting - clarification to the different level of separate locks of hair. Kolorirovaniye`s
- - coloring of all mass of hair locks of different color.
- of Balayazh - clarification or change of color only the ends of hair.
a hair Structure
the Visible part of a hair is called a core, invisible, located under skin, - a root. The root of a hair is a little thickened in comparison with a core, is in a hair bag - a follicle - and settles down under some corner to a skin surface. In the lower part a hair sack, extending, forms a bulb. The hair consists of a set of threadlike structures (keratin multifibrilla) covered with several layers of transparent keratin scales. The cuticle (an external layer of a hair) consists of the died-off keratin cages which form flat scales. They settle down so that each previous scale covers the subsequent. Between scales of a cuticle there is a lipidic layer thanks to which they densely adjoin to each other, it protects a hair from external influences. When hair are healthy and receive the correct care, scales are closed, the core of a hair represents a plain, smooth surface, the hair shines. If the lipidic layer is destroyed, then any mechanical influences can lead to the fact that scales will begin to be broken off or puff up. Hair will cease to shine and will badly comb hair.
the Natural pigment of a hair - melanin happens two types: it is black - brown - evmelanin, and is yellow - red - feomelanin. The hair color is defined by a type of melanin, its quantity and placement. The pigment is in two states - granular and scattered. The granular pigment is allocated against scattered as has an appearance of small granules and paints hair from is red - brown till black color. The scattered pigment gives to hair is yellow - red tone. In dark hair of a pigment much more, than in light. Using alkali or the concentrated acid, it is possible to destroy a pigment partially or completely. At the same time it is necessary to remember what is yellow - red tone to clarify many times more difficultly, than is gray - brown.
the Principle of effect of oxidizing paints
At clarification of hair free oxygen from hydrogen peroxide, oxidizing a hair pigment, turns it into colourless substance. Oxidizing paint only then carries out the direct functions when oxygen oxidizes a pigment of a hair and at the same time shows the painting dye little bodies. That is together with decolouration new color is imposed. So almost all paints which are on sale in shops work. The mechanism of their action in the general words can be explained as follows. The hair consists of fibrilla - the extended fibers. In points of their contact small tubules are formed. Until scales of a hair are densely closed, particles of dye cannot get in a hair and when the hair inflates after putting paint, then easily absorbs through these tubules of a particle of dye. After oxidation dye increases almost by 300 times, having filled all emptiness of a hair. When washing the head only those particles which remained outside will be washed away. Reaction happens very quickly therefore it is necessary to apply paint right after cultivation. And already in half an hour of a molecule will become very big and will not be able to get in a hair.
Should adhere to hold time of dye precisely. If time will be has not enough, then new color will not manage to be created. Acceleration of coloring due to use of additional heat will go quicker, but dyes will lay down not on the tone of clarification that will distort desirable color.
Upon paint purchase first of all should pay attention to percentage of an oxidizer, namely: if it is necessary to become 2 - 3 tones lighter, it is necessary to choose paint with its 9% contents if on 3 - 4 shades - with 12%; and if there is a wish to become slightly lighter or is more dark, to match, that better to choose paint with a 6% oxidizer. Never it is necessary to feel sorry for paint, it has to be quite a lot.
several stages of hair-dyeing Exist. Treat them:
- dye Selection.
- Test for a preparation susceptibility.
- Preliminary washing.
- Putting dye.
- Hold time.
- Care of a dyed hair. Let`s consider each stage in detail.
the Choice of a way of hair-dyeing and a preparation depends on structure of hair and a condition of head skin. If on head skin there are wounds or symptoms of skin diseases, it is necessary to refuse coloring not to worsen a state of health. When determining a hair color it is necessary to raise locks and to look at a gleam as in lump hair seem more dark. After a chemical wave it is necessary to apply the tinting preparations. They not only will give brightness to a hair color, but also will improve their structure. When coloring hair in natural colors it is necessary to consider some rules: hair at roots have to be always slightly more dark, than on roots; it is better if hair are ahead a little lighter, than behind, and the top locks of hair are slightly lighter than lower.
the Test for a preparation susceptibility
If is tendency to an allergy, it is desirable to carry out the test for a susceptibility to this type of dye. For this purpose a small amount of a preparation is applied on dry skin behind an ear. If in 24 hours skin reddened, and on it the irritation appeared, so to refuse this preparation better.
Before coloring the head is not washed to keep the fatty layer protecting hair and head skin. Very dirty hair wash once, but shampoo without balm, and at the same time try not to affect skin. To remove the remains of a varnish, mousse or other preparations of leaving from hair, it is the best of all before coloring than them just to schesat. > Putting dye
Hair-dyeing it is better for p to make
in salon where the master will pick up a chemical composition, optimum for your hair, will competently apply paint, and equal and good color will turn out. If the woman decided to conduct this process independently, in house conditions, there are several simple rules.
Rule 1 . That the forehead and temporal part were not recoloured and there was no irritation, skin at the edges of growth of hair can be greased with any fat cream, oil or vaseline.
Rule 2 . It is obligatory to use in work special gloves as preparations for hair-dyeing affect skin of hands and nails destructively.
Rule 3 . Tools and accessories should not have metal parts as at interaction of dye with metal there are connections which are negatively operating on hair and on quality of dye. It is desirable to use only plastic or ceramic pans.
Rule 4 . Paint should be mixed before the use as process of oxidation begins at once when mixing, and after a while intensity of color weakens.
Rule 5 . Hair divide two perpendicular hair partings passing through the top into four zones. At first dye is applied on hair partings, and then on an occipital zone as it colder and process of coloring proceeds there less intensively. It is necessary to apply on temporal part and hair better with a forehead dye in the last turn as there - the most fine hair and they very quickly perceive paint. If there is a wish to make any part of hair of lighter, than the others, then it is necessary to begin putting paint with this party.
Rule 6 . At hair-dyeing by very intensive red tones paint should be applied only on length and the ends of hair, having receded from roots on 2 - 3 cm. And only after hair will be well impregnated, it is possible to apply dye on roots.
Rule 7 . It is necessary to apply dye quickly and precisely that intensity of color turned out uniform. On all procedure of putting paint no more than 10 - 15 minutes have to leave.
Rule 8 . Than thickness and hair are more dense, locks on which apply paint that it could impregnate each hair have to be that more thinly.
Rule 9 . At repeated coloring it is necessary to apply precisely mix that on earlier dyed hair paint did not get, and they did not suffer.
Rule 10 . After putting paint on the head the “armor“ capable to create greenhouse effect should not be formed and to complicate an exit of free oxygen.
Is very important to observe exact time of endurance. Its counting begins after putting dye.
- easy coloring (pastel toning) - 15 minutes;
- normal coloring (to match, is one tone lighter or is more dark) - 30 - 35 minutes;
- clarification - 35 minutes; by
- strong clarification - 50 minutes, otherwise dye will not be shown completely and will not be steady on hair.
dye Washing off
Before washing off of dye should be checked, hair were how carefully painted over. For this purpose obushky hairbrushes remove paint on roots and the ends of hair and compare them. If it was found out that hair did not reach identical color, then hold time should be increased. At achievement of desirable color the emulsification is made. For this purpose a small amount of warm water is applied on hair, foams slightly and distributed on all surface of the head, at the same time the massing movements on the line of growth of hair are made. The emulsification is necessary without effort to remove dye from head skin and to add to hair gloss. After that hair should be washed out carefully warm water, then special shampoo and to process neutralized balm to remove the dye remains.Care of a dyed hair
After coloring should use
special shampoos and balms which minimize harmful effects of dye on skin and hair. It is also possible to use coloring shampoos or balms which bring additional quantity of a pigment in a hair. But it is necessary to remember that daily washing of the head, especially hot water, perniciously affects color as scales - cuticles are slightly opened, and the paint pigment literally slips out from - under them. Also you should not use an oily hair shampoos for washing of the head. They are too aggressive, aggravate problems of hair which at this moment need most of all moistening. Not the best service will be served also by alkalinosoderzhashy products to which children`s shampoos belong. Anti-dandruff shampoos are categorically contraindicated to a dyed hair. If this misfortune disturbs, then it is better to use remedies in the form of ampoules or lotions which are applied only on head skin.
Colouring should be repeated to the required extent of clarification (reasonably in view of features of structure of hair), and then to tint only roots. Frequency of coloring of times in 1,5 - 2 months is considered normal.New paint on old
If coloring of hair is carried out by
on already available paint, it is necessary to show extra care as imposing of one shade on another yields unpredictable result. So, for example, hair of red shades at their clarification or coloring in golden shades turn out yellow, and the hair painted earlier in violet shades at clarification can give green color.
If all - turned out an undesirable shade, it is necessary to use mikstony - a special preparation which matts (cleans) undesirable shades and increases the necessary tone. The choice of a mikston depends on a hair color: golden neutralizes violet shades, red - green, violet and lilac - yellow, green and sandre - red, and gray - strengthens ashy and pearl shades.This structure is applied to
on hair and 10 - 15 minutes are maintained. If it is in advance known that after coloring the undesirable shade then necessary mikston will turn out it is added to paint: about 1 - 5 cm cream - paints on 60 g of dye. The volume of a mikston is defined depending on desirable tone: the desirable tone of hair is more dark, the more mikston can be added and vice versa.we Paint with
a chemical wave
At a chemical wave decolouration expediently to carry out only in a week when hair completely are restored and will be fixed in the new structure, otherwise they can not sustain such strong loading and collapse. If it is necessary to make a chemical wave and partial clarification of hair, then at first the chemical wave, and already then, after drying is carried out, partial clarification is carried out.Colouring by vegetable dyes
Natural dyes work with
like tinting, that is get only into an external layer of a hair, but keep stronger, especially at systematic use. They are not able to change considerably color, but can strengthen a shade, and, above all - to improve a condition of hair, well influencing a scaly layer. For coloring and care of hair many plants are used. Cinnamon, hop on a fair hair give to
- a golden shade.
- the Camomile has the soft clarifying effect. the Sage gives
- ryzhevato - a brown shade, but only at regular use. Onions give to
- brighter golden shade. Especially strong effect is reached at once after washing. the Walnut gives
- to hair kremovo - a brownish shade.
- Henna strengthens growth of hair, does them more elastic, brilliant, slightly dries. At use of henna shades vary from reddish to darkly - chestnut color. Basm`s
- paints hair in darkly - blue color therefore it is usually used in combination with henna.
Henna and basma incorporate tannins, they nourish head skin, promote growth of hair, strengthen them and return the vital force and gloss. It is necessary to remember that are only painted by henna natural prirodno - brown or prirodno - it is dark - a fair hair. Henna is in the habit to fade. But use it not more often than time in two months. From frequent use there is a boomerang effect: hair become dim. But if hair were painted by means on a chemical basis recently, promelirovana or underwent a chemical wave, then it is necessary to refrain from coloring by henna as vegetable dyes are very badly combined with chemical.
In this case the result can be absolutely unpredictable. Color can get any shade - from orange to green. The decoloured or clarified hair after coloring by henna become morkovno - red, zolotisto - fair-haired - is bright - red, and prirodno - black hair are not painted at all. Watchfully it is necessary to handle also the hair which were earlier exposed to a chemical wave as they “will instantly grab“ new color. Respectively, time of influence of henna on chemically curled hair has to be minimum. If the woman got used to change a hair color as gloves, then henna not the best preparation for this purpose. It is not washed away, and it cannot be removed from hair in any way. After coloring by henna and other natural dyes categorically it is impossible to do a chemical wave and to use chemical dyes, and also to refresh hair with highlighting. It is necessary to wait until a dyed hair grows, and places of coloring will be cut off, otherwise you risk to be left in general without any vegetation on the head.
Hold time of dyes of a phytogenesis fluctuates of several minutes till two o`clock. They can be prepared in the form of infusions, conditioners, gruels. If they are applied on clean hair in the form of gruel, then after coloring hair should be washed out carefully under flowing water.
Any chemical influence is a stress for hair. After coloring by it food and moistening are vital. Special shampoos, masks, balms contain the conditioning additives which smooth scales of hair thanks to what parts of a pigment are much longer not washed away. Correctly picked up coloring shampoo, mousse, balm enriched with a pigment of paint will refresh a shade of hair in several weeks after coloring and will help “to disguise“ the grown roots.