Rus Articles Journal

Reggio di Calabria: declaration of love of

... the most beautiful kilometer in Italy.
Gabriel d “Annuntsio.

you, Reggio di Calabria? One of the most ancient cities of the region of Calabria - once Ancient Greek colony where the Pythagorean school was founded. Located on “tip“ of the Italian boot where we with a family appeared thanks to the beloved father and the high-speed Highway A3 passing across all country from the North on the South. Italians call it “the road to the sun“... The city - dream where there is a temple in which blessed Madonna protects you where nobody notices time as if dissolved in bitterly - a spicy smell of a bergamot, and everyone is happy in own way... What you, Reggio di Calabria?

Having left the hotel which sheltered us for few weeks, we cross the road, we get into the old Fiat which is kindly provided by the Italian friends and... having passed only several kilometers, we begin to feel that there is a certain sacrament, incomprehensible magic. Some unknown force carries away us in action where life and the fairy tale, eternity and fugacity, big and small, silence and polyphony, monotone and improbable polychromy are combined... And precisely we remember how long, well familiar each detail and every moment this surprising, fairy tales - a reality - you, our favourite Redzho. What pleasure to go on your direct streets and the spacious areas, so atypical for the Italian cities, to feel a light breeze from the sea, singing from pleasure: “Calabria - the earth of love!“

we Approach Kastello Square, and here before us Aragonscy the lock as if the immortal medieval Norman knight fastening Redzho`s history to the present. On the one hand we are met by Ferdinando I Aragonscy in honor of whom the lock and bears now a name, - he costs at walls of the lock and friendly welcomes us. On the other hand the architect Baccio Pontelli runs out, joyfully reporting that he managed to complete a ravelin, a defensive ditch and two towers of a cylindrical form. He kindly invites to himself in the lock to try the Calabrian ice cream ground between halves of hot rolls briosh with a cup of delightful espresso...

we Will walk according to Corso Garibaldi - the central street, very long and direct, with a set of shops and cafe where there is a brisk trade. I will come to bow to Madonna - the Saint patroness of the city in church Maria - Santissima - della - Konsolatsione, and at heart already rest and pleasure.

Almost parallel to Corso Garibaldi the embankment of Reggio di Calabria, Matteotti Embankment - the seaside boulevard set with fruit and exotic trees is seen. As if representatives of an ancient noble sort we stride on the well-known embankment, slightly smiling to the same happily having a rest people. Each of us on arrival home will tell that he saw Etna and a veil - to Morgan that appears at certain moments in the Messinsky gulf and that only it to one had - to see such happiness a mirage.

the Surprising mirage of Redzho - antiquity lives near novelty here, tourists and locals very quickly become a little distinguishable from each other, speaking different languages easily conduct conversation. It seems that time does not exist as there are no borders - here all out of time and out of space... Having arrived here for the first time, suddenly we understand that we are in our city familiar for a long time; having arrived here once, we know that arrived forever... soul forever.


guesses proximity of the sea Everywhere - on freshness of sea air, noise of waves, some special atmosphere of the resort town. Strikes abundance and a variety of seagulls: very large and the average size, almost snow-white and with beautiful it is motley - a gray pattern, with dark and bright, is reddish - yellow beaks, the careful, a little timid and almost manual, separate individuals and birds who gathered in pack; they settle down nearly on each roof, with shout fly by over the head, important walk on the embankment. And on the sea coast the real treasures - surprising beauty, unusual forms and coloring of a cockleshell, their splinters and pebbles are scattered. I collect these wonderful particles and I plunge into a condition of great happiness and pleasure...

Oh, these cozy streets, such unlike severe streets of our snow-covered Homeland, already attract to themselves, without resorting to magic, they dream in dreams, at distance - are represented in reality; also it already is necessary to go here... We come nearly an every day; we go now on foot, and it is surprising - every day the distance is more and more reduced... We go to church with the inlaid floor and ancient columns which remained from earlier Byzantine abbey di Terreti Santa Maria. We go to the Cathedral - Maria - Santissima - Assunta - in - the Forehead in pseudo Romance style where tourists are met by statues of the apostle Pavel and the first episcope of Stefano di Nicea. We go to the sea which is constantly changing the face. We go to surprising ruins Roman a term in which the remains of a mosaic are so harmoniously combined with ceramic inclusions. We go to the national museum of Ancient Greece to see well-known “Riache`s bronze“ that are a symbol of Calabria. We go to see Reggio di Calabria, the city coming in dreams, imprinted in canvases and embroideries of our beloved daughter. We go, hearing friendly greetings of dealers and waiters from small restaurants... We go here for own call, leaving, coming back again and again... Also there is no limit of pleasure which we test every time.

Everything is so close and expensive to

here - reverential silence and the twilight in temples, a flame of candles that thaw, going to sand, a wind rustle on the embankment, the ripening fruits of garnet, orange and bergamot trees, amazing laces of sea foam, a heap of stones at the coast, yachts at the mooring, the ships in the far sea... We throw a coin into water. Its boundless blue scope he is grateful accepts. Minute of proximity of parting is light - we distinctly hear: “Come, my Russian friends!. I will wait for you!.“. Ah, as there is a wish to trust in it!

of Valentin Vologdin