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Paradise on an ocean coast. Diary of the African wanderings (part 4) of

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Twelfth day. Arrival to Zanzibar

From Gift - es - Salama to Zanzibar 1,5 hours the sea ferry.

At customs as soon as went out of the sea bus which brought us to the wonderful island of Zanzibar me asked to provide to

the passport to give a mark about my arrival. My husband - the resident of the country, it is constant and with ease moving between the island and the continent … forgot to warn me about that I took the passport, and at me even any thought did not fly about it. It is good that we were met in port by the Zanzibar friend of the husband - people from the category of the people able to settle any questions.

So far I sat on a wooden small bench, appealing in a prayer to local Allah, from an open door of the neighboring room the excited many-voiced noise reached.

Local authorities represented by customs wanted to send to

us back to Tanzania on the next parokhodik, but nevertheless we with the God`s help and at local Allah`s means achieved that I here.

for this purpose me was given me for the student Dar - es - Salamsky university, having asked to pretend that I do not know any foreign language, except Russian. It is interesting that the customs had no suspicions how the student of local university can not know any of two languages which are officially accepted in Tanzania: neither English, nor Swahili. But, as if there was not, the issue was resolved in the way, favorable for me. And in the evening we already sat at pier and a fir-tree of fresh octopuses, squids, shrimps and the soft crackling flat cakes, washing down with juice from a sugar cane.

Thirteenth day. The wonderful island

Earlier two certain states existed: Tanganyika and Zanzibar. After their association on April 26, 1964 there was a state of United Republic of Tanzania, representing the union of two republics.

the President of all union is Benjamin Mkapa now.


Official languages of the union recognized Swahili and English. But be not surprised, not each met person will be able to talk to you in English. The reason is covered that the considerable part of the population of the country from - for the extreme poverty has no opportunity to get quality education. As for language of Swahili is one of the most important languages of group to a bow. It is also official language of Kenya and language of communication of many people of Africa located in the territory from coast of the Indian Ocean to Congo.

with the friend of the Zanzibar friend of the husband was gone out Today on the city. The Katidzha - the Muslim, very nice and charming. I asked it whether there was it where - or besides Zanzibar. No, as well as vast majority of her compatriots. In the afternoon Katidzha was in black clothes and black buoys - buoys (the scarf covering the head), but in the evening it surprised me. It appears, and Muslim women not always go in black. It was in a fine pink long dress with a chiffon cape.

Should tell

that the youth of Africa with great attention belongs to the appearance. Neatness at them in the price. They can iron out for hours the clothes, mainly irons with hot coals; to take a shower several times per day and that especially is evident, to create various unusually beautiful hairdresses.

Ya owing to local decencies for the first time for several years too constantly I go in long clothes: in the African kango which from - for absence of skill in its clothing continually wishes to swing open, in a long skirt with a smell, in parero...


Zanzibar - the fantastic island of magnificent beaches and east spices - attracted to the coast travelers throughout many centuries whom in search of trade development and whom in search of a robbery and a cheap profit. Assyrians, Egyptians, Phoenicians, Indians, Chinese, Persians, Portuguese, Arabs, Danes, British - all of them were here in this or that time.

of B XIX to Zanzibar was the largest producer and the supplier to the world market of a carnation. But in 1872 the large hurricane destroyed 2/3 plantations of a carnation and coconut trees. Owing to what exporters of other countries overtook Zanzibar on volumes of supply of this spice.

On the island very very narrow small streets (who at the time of construction thought that there will go cars here?) and absolutely different, but because not less same old very nice lodges. Indoors as usual the hall following at once an entrance door, the dining room, kitchen, several rooms and a utility room in which ropes for drying of linen are usually tense. Sit in houses on a floor on soft pillows, but have dinner nevertheless at a usual table.

After a lunch and after-dinner tea with the fresh snow-white bread made according to the original Zanzibar recipe we visited the museum and Anglican church located on the place of the former market of slaves.

of Slaves was brought from Bagamoyo here and kept in two rooms, separately men and separately women and children. People crowded very much that it was impossible even to sit down. They stood till several days closely the friend to the friend with chains on a neck. Until sale they spent days in these basements without food, and satisfied thirst with the drops of juice of fruit filtering through a ceiling from located above the fruit market. Then future slaves checked for durability in blows of lashes. On the one who shouted the price fell. Many died of hunger, ill treatment and diseases. The remained, strongest slaves sold. Arabs were the main buyers, but were as well Americans, Dutches and other Europeans.

Officially the market of slaves was closed by

in 1872, but still some underground human trafficking continued a time later.

After cancellation of slavery on the island still remained a large number of Arabs and to solve the conflict between the oppressed earlier African population and the dominating Arabs, the following decision was made. Young men and girls of that and other party were put in ranks and violently forced to marry the friend the friend. Thereby mixed marriages were created, and the conflict was resolved.

Arabs delivered

here and the religion. Still 98% of the population of Zanzibar and 30% of the population of Tanzania practise Islam.

Fourteenth day. Ocean whims

Went on the nearby island of “Mbudya“ by a small lodchonka, regularly several times a day plying between the continent and this island.

the Name of that place where the mooring - “Sleepbay“ is located. It includes restaurant, in the evenings the disco, several shops and cafe. From the mooring to the island to float minutes 20. You get to small Heaven: the sandy coast, the sea from azure and blue at the coast to darkly - blue in the distance; the krabik which are scurrying about between minks; continually the swimming-up to the coast, snow-white yacht points and multi-colored catamarans.

it is good to p to lie on warm sand, holding up the coddled body to impudent sunshine from which it is possible to have a rest under canopies from banana leaves.

Water in the ocean very warm, and in the lagoon adjoining to the beach which we reached, water even hot. The column with the plate beaten to it “the Lagoon of Sharks“ is driven in the earth, but whether sharks are found really here, it was not succeeded to learn.

Ya all I cannot get used that the ocean constantly is in the movement, causing otliva, inflow.

left to

Ya the favourite sunglasses ashore and hurried to the husband who already plunged into tender ocean waters. Passed minutes 5 - 10. When I left, to the greatest amazement and not smaller chagrin found on that place where there were points only splash of the arrived water. The ocean ate my madly expensive glasses presented only a month ago on Birthday. I do not know whether carried away the ocean them in the open spaces or dug in sand. It was necessary to buy to the husband new instead of stolen by the ocean.

having Already returned to Moscow, I found out that I am waited by a small package. Having opened it, I learned … the gone points. It turns out that in several days after the above described case the ocean washed points ashore. The worker of the beach, having found them, found my husband and transferred it my loss. It here small miracle.

Fifteenth day. Kwaheri - To new meetings

Since morning, stopping for a minute, pours a rain. Amplifies, slightly calms down.

On my eyes of a tear.

Travel to Tanzania ended with

, having taken away a part of my heart. In several hours my plane. It seems to me that I visited paradise. And maybe actually paradise is similar to this amazing place located on the bank of the Indian Ocean where there live kind, cheerful and very sympathetic people. The meeting with my most favourite, but also so busy husband approached end also. To following still too far. The continuous series of days will merge with infinite expectation. Where and when we meet the following time?


But I am grateful to destiny for ours let rare, let short, but so long-awaited meetings.

the Wonderful dream proceeds, a dream which was presented to me by Life.