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Paradise on an ocean coast. Diary of the African wanderings (part 3) of

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Seventh day. Notes in way

From to Gift - es - Salama of Mr. Morogoro - 2,5 hours. We broke the radio tape recorder, gave it to repair and all road went without music.

Conversation came about local population. I try to understand how I treat chocolate people. As I do not try, I do not see in them anything repellent. Yes, it was unpleasant to me when the dirty poor black boy stretched the dirty palm in a window. But it is unpleasant to me too when the white dirty poor boy seeks to touch me with the purpose to pay my attention to himself and to receive though some coins. But only because dirty, and I would not like to catch some infection.

Along the road many people meet. It is very often possible to see the women holding each other by hands that is considered quite usual here. At the same time the woman, having remained alone with the man who is not her blood relative or the husband will feel not really comfortably.


it is surrounded with mountains at the bottom of one of which it also is located. Around, as well as everywhere in Tanzania, all in greens.

I cannot get off with

feeling that I on other planet or in other century, but in the past or the future, and just in another. It is impossible to transfer all feelings wakening in me from beauty of the nature, unusual small streets of the city, it is unfamiliar the looking people, but everything in me exults from pleasure and the soul sings and rejoices. Out of space, time and distances, thinking of the past, not of the future.

Real as you it is fine!

Eighth day. And again the road

our way lies from Morogoro in a deaf village of Kilombero. Very hot, but as poured before a rain, which - where huge pools in one of which the truck with freight got stuck.

my husband with eternal African readiness makes to help

the decision to give feasible help, and I have an opportunity to examine the mighty baobab growing nearby.

the Baobab, the long-liver among trees, and really is very interesting. Its age can reach according to different data 1 thousand - 5 thousand years. Height of a baobab averages 12 meters, its thickness can have 9,5 meters a diameter. But, despite the grandiose grasp, the trunk of a baobab is soft also a porist. For this reason it also possesses surprising ability to accumulate during a rainy season a huge amount of water (to 120 t.) thanks to what he not only survives during a drought, but also lets out on the branches in a droughty season fancy white fragrant flowers.

We go further along a plantation of a sugar cane on some awful exhausting road. Stirs me and carries on the car here and there, and by the end of day I feel incredible fatigue.

Darkened. The dark, not lit at all dirt road. On the way local peasants come across to us. What would be if they met me one in this place and at this time? Would take for a white devil? White you will not meet there and during daylight hours.

We travel everywhere by car, but for most of Tanzanians the most widespread vehicle is the bus or pass the bus under the name daladala. Local transport is usually crowded, not especially komfortabelen and seldom runs to timetable, but the trip in it costs little very much.


In big cities widely use a taxi. Generally it is old cars without any identification marks, many of which have no door handles, and windows and doors are in a non-working state. Taxi drivers usually stand at the cars, with persistence inviting passengers.


For country trips perfectly are suitable trains provided that you do not hurry anywhere. They though give the chance to enjoy rural landscapes, but are very slow and are not always reliable. In trains there are compartments of the 1, 2 and 3 class. If the man and the woman wish to go together in one compartment, they choose 1 - y a class. In 2 - m a class of the man and woman go separately, compartments quite comfortable. Compartments 3 - go a class represent rooms where it is only possible to stand.

We with the husband inveterate motorists and therefore prefer to move on the SUV enjoying here popularity.

Tenth day. Kilombero

From June to October in Tanzania - a dry season. November, December - a rainy season. From January to March there is an intolerable heat. For April and May the second is necessary, to the main, the period of rains. Our meeting in Tanzania also fell on this season.

Yesterday and today the whole day without a break pours a rain. Only for a moment the sun and again a rain will look out. What to do, a rainy season. Last night all electricity was cut down that in Africa happens very often. It is probable that from - for a rain something failed. The electricity was still not restored.

in the Morning we managed to descend in an interval between two heavy rains to the river. Bathing in clear mountain water and a shower from falls. We made the way to it on stones, holding hands counter branches. Stones very slippery of - for constant water flow and the formed raid. Around figured webs with the spiders sitting in them waiting for the desired victim.

Ya I bend down and I get through under thin threads of a web as if under the tense ropes, carefully I lower a leg in a crevice between stones, adhering for a huge block, I lower other leg. Rather deeply. The falls rustle, water droplets, hitting against stones, splashes scatter in the parties. I plunge into water, water reaches to me shoulders. A little terribly. Brisk emptiness. Perhaps, somewhere in the neighbourhood monkeys frolic, the lovely skorpionchik hid, was curtailed a ball of a dragon.

Ya I go, as well as all African women in kango (the squared bright piece of fabric used as a skirt, a cape, a scarf and even a zaplechny sack for transfer of children). Grace, it was wound with two pieces of fabric and it is not necessary either warm jackets, or boots, or fur coats, or heaters.

I do not envy

But most of the African inhabitants. About 80% from them live in incredible poverty. Clay lodge, shabby, absolutely tiny by the sizes, where even not all have a bed and a table. Kids in the torn-off clothes. Yesterday, when I went on the village, all of them ran together in a small group and followed me as chickens. Very friendly and fun-loving, to them my skin color was so unusual that they remembered each word told by me and transferred each other. Any footwear, always barefoot. They surrounded me from all directions and took the home.

Eleventh day of tour. A safari

the Way back - es - Salam went to Gift through national park of Mikumi, but before we stopped by in a snake terrarium. What I saw there forced me to be terrified.

If I knew

what species of snakes and in what quantity live in nearby vicinities, I never and there is nothing did not go on eternally calling, the not less eternal secret, to the jungle.

to Take

, for example, magnificent brilliant Green Mamba. It is dazzling green, colors of a young green grass, this beauty is extremely dangerous. She bites without the prevention and already nothing will rescue from its sting. Antidote does not exist. Besides, this, filling incredible with dread to locals, the queen of the jungle is amazingly fast. At a usual speed of an ordinary snake of 1 km/h, Green Mamba gathers speed to 11,3 km/h, moving on the ground, and even more increases it in branches.

of Wine Snack . Its color not just merges, it is absolutely identical to color of bark of surrounding trees. You will grab a branch to support yourself on an abrupt hillside or upon transition through the raging water stream and any more never you will manage to realize what happened to you. Besides, the oppressive impression is supplemented by a snakeskin, is more frightening hanging down here and there from branches of trees. Wine Snack changes skin each several months.

Or still the spat cobra . She instinctively feels the level of an arrangement of eyes of the opponent to which it carries also the harmless person. The fraction of a second is enough for it, for rising and injecting poison into eyes of the victim. Poison of a cobra takes off from openings of her poisonous teeth and can fly by meter 2 - 3. There are about 30 spittles in a row. If it occurred, it is necessary to wash out very quickly and carefully eyes. Otherwise the blindness threatens.

Egyptian cobra . It stiffened in a proud pose, having slightly risen. In several moments she promptly rushed on me, having buried in glass. And though we were divided by thick glass of a terrarium, I involuntarily jumped aside and screamed, everything happened so unexpectedly.

There now, at last, and national park of Mikumi. And we, having armed with cameras, we begin our safari.

I Will notice

that business of a safari is extremely important both for Tanzania, and for other countries of East Africa. The word “safari“, having originally arisen in Swahili, entered the use in different languages of the world. In Swahili of “safari“ means any trip or travel of any sort. In safari Russian usually assumes the fascinating walk connected with supervision over wild animals.

National parks and reserves of Tanzania have not equal in the world. About 30% of all African animals from the big five (elephants, lions, giraffes, hippopotamuses, rhinoceroses) live there. The vast majority and telecasts about animals of this group is removed in the territory of parks of this country.

the Most known and visited owing to bigger development of the tourist industry are parks of the northern territory: Serengeti, Kilimanjaro, Ngorongoro Crater, Manyar`s lake. Also the parks located in the southern part of the country among which there is also Mikumi`s park are not less interesting.

the National park of Mikumi is located

in 300 km to the West from Gift - es - Salama and occupies the space more than 3000 In its territory it is possible to meet a great number of giraffes, elephants, zebras, antelopes, lions and more than 300 bird species.

From - for a rainy season, unfortunately, did not manage to see desired lions who during this period go to the depth, the most dense thickets of park, and hippopotamuses to whom all entrances were washed away by water. But their absence compensated a great number of the met elephants, giraffes, zebras, flocks of timid antelopes and other animals. Monkeys surpassed my expectations. Without shyness drop they snatched out bananas directly from hands, got into the car and pulled out from secluded corners even those bananas which were intended at all and not for them, and for our own consumption. Monkeys took bananas the handles just as people and also properly cleaned them and ate.