Rus Articles Journal

Paradise on an ocean coast. The diary of the African wanderings (part 2) of

Part 1 can be read here.

Third day. Karibu - Welcome

the Cairo Plane - Gift - es - Salam was much better than

, than the fact that flew from Moscow to Cairo. Boeing 747.

When we began to land, palm trees, exotic plants and fantastic small lodges around were seen. I thought that it is a terminal point of my appointment Gift - es - Salam especially as practically all passengers left. I went out of the plane too, filled in the declaration and approached a rack of passport control.

the Controller thumbs through my passport in one party, in another and suddenly asks: “And where visa?“ I show the Tanzanian visa with the words “And So It“. In reply I hear: “You where fly?“. “In Gift - es - Salam“.“ Same Uganda, and to you to fly further, 1,5 more hours“.

Beautiful take-off over the ocean coast which subsequently appeared Lake Victoria where, by the way, legendary tsetse flies are also found.

From a plane window I see 3 very high mountain tops. From them one is especially allocated and as it seems to me, it is covered with snow. For certain, Kilimanjaro. Yes, it is really Kilimanjaro majestically towering through a dense layer of snow-white clouds. I remember that the first mentions of Kilimanjaro belongs to 1848 when the German missionary Johan Rebmen for the first time reported about a grief with the snow-covered top close to the equator. Royal Geographical society of Great Britain made a fun of him then.

Landing in Gift - es - to Salama. In Uganda water weight dark, and at coast of Tanzania it is bright - is green - blue. Both here and there - violent vegetation.

As soon as I looked out of the plane, I was accepted in the embraces by Tanzanian air. Damp, hot. A hotbed or a sauna which was filled in with water.

Ya passed all sites of control, received baggage. The husband met me, brought to some ordinary-looking “inn“, carried out along corridors to the room where it is possible to have a rest and take a shower, and left. Work.

What to tell about the room, wanted to tell about a chamber as she also reminds it to me. The small room with white rather is probable, once the former white walls. Bathroom: the shower, a wash basin, a toilet do not differ in purity. But especially I am impressed by blue bed linen. It also reminds me the American prison chambers. I fastidiously screw up the face, besides I am afraid to go to a shower, I am afraid to use water, said to me that it is infected.

It is so interesting to

, all people around brown, black and it is burning - black, one teeth shine. While we went, I considered vicinities and surrounding people. Very beautiful women who are well dressed meet. Very bright clothes though I saw several girls in black. The short clothes are not visible, to the middle of calves below. It is explained by strong Muslim influence in the country. But that is interesting, trying as it is possible to cover stronger the body, local women, nevertheless, consider quite decent to nurse the child in the face of all in crowded places. Do not consider shameful and to walk in hair curlers the streets.

At many Africans majestic gait. A bearing, a proud look - you will envy their manner to behave. Many women carry bags on the head, and children behind the back.

the street urchins offering a fresh peanut and cashew Everywhere come across to


decent and rules on them very much are even followed by

of the Road. However, left-hand traffic and if to forget about it, then it is possible and not to evade from the truck rushing towards.

in the room iron lattices, the TV does not work as

At windows. There is a wish to go outside, but without husband - so far do not cost the keeper. I though desperately courageous, but do not know the country with her customs.

“Gift - es - Salam“ if to trust my guide, means on - Arab “The region of the world“ and today it is the real megalopolis with the population 2 million inhabitants. Yes, the megalopolis - a shed, on extremely measure, from the plane of the house the sheds suitable to each other are similar on closely. Actually so far it is pleasant to me.

Thanks, road.

Fourth day. The first impressions

Looked with

on above at the written lines and smiled. Gift - es - Salam does not remind me any more about what I wrote earlier. It is all different. There are delightful areas with magnificent white country houses and high fences, there are poor areas with huts. As well as at us: palace cottages and barracks and as well as everywhere, in the same prestigious Nice with its gloss and dirty poor quarters where any minute the stream of sewage from n height - go the floor will fall upon the head.

Gift - es - Salam and his vicinities are buried in verdure. This really luxury: banana trees, coconut palm trees, baobabs and there are a lot of other trees and herbs unfamiliar to me.

to me it becomes ridiculous when I represent myself in clothes which to me were advised to buy before a trip. As if I looked among the people dressed in bright peace to Kang in the militaristic clothes and high boots from a gorteks.

the Husband constantly asks

whether I want is and what I would like to look at. There are I do not want, I am saturated with fresh air, and everything is interesting to me, and I completely leave it to its choice. When you come to the unfamiliar new place, each taken step in any direction seems interesting. And here when the place where you are to you familiarly, then you become too legible and you begin to choose. And maybe, all because that just here is pleasant to me and my elect of love does everything possible that my stay here to me was remembered.

We go to walk and sight-see the city. A great number of the dealers who are busily wishing to find the new owner for the various exotic goods. Self-made pots of all sizes, plants, figures of giraffes, elephants, lions which are cut out from tree grades unprecedented earlier, ritual masks, handbags, various jewelry. Sellers of fried corncobs come across so often that I will - bondage wanted to try such corn. Something reminds sunflower seeds. Not bad.

A around such beautiful nature.

was passed in the Evening along an ocean coast, by a fish bazarchik, by the noisy benches hurrying and slowly walking people. I look and I continue to be surprised. Where wild people with hungry eyes, ready with copies to snatch every minute? Friendly, very pleasant people, there is a lot of also with pleasure laughing and smiling.

having Already come back home from a trip and, having shown the pictures taken earlier, I noticed how I brought many warm smiles with myself.

Lance bearers, however, too meet. Masa. God the peculiar people as they consider. Masa attract all eyes the smoothly shaved slightly extended napes delayed by lobes of ears and harmonous covered with beautiful clothes figures at once. Each of them always has at himself a spear and sharply perfected knife. Since the childhood they masterly own a thrust weapon, but only in urgent cases for personal self-defense apply it. Carefully traditions and those representatives of a masaa who live in the cities long ago store and daily go to work.

Fifth day. Gift - es - Salam

Legally the capital of Tanzania is the small town of Dodoma located in the central part of the state. The choice of this place as the capital was dictated by the purpose of ensuring economic prosperity of the central provinces of Tanzania. But, despite everything the made efforts, actually the capital of political, economic and cultural life of the country both was earlier, and there is still one of the largest cities of Africa - Gift - es - Salam.

History of the city originates since 1857 when the sultan of Zanzibar Said Madzhit founded the summer residence here. In 1891 Gift - es - Salam becomes the center of the German colony. After World War I British establish the board. With finding of independence in 1964 Gift - es - Salam appears the capital of Tanzania.

We go to the Aquapark in Gift - es - to Salama. After we waited in half-hour line, to us put on paper bracelets wrists and started in park. In the beginning to me it was a little inconvenient as my closed bathing suit was the most open there, but down with silly complexes. I have a good figure and therefore instead of grease man`s and condemning female, I tried to catch under a jealous look of the husband delighted looks from that and other party.

Very modern park, it was constructed about a year ago. Several hills. I began with the most terrible direct hill from which I did not dare to go down the second time any more. At the same time local Indian children which it is necessary to tell there is a lot of in Tanzania, in the wet casual clothes over and over again rose and with laughter rushed from the mountain.

the Beautiful pool, around very polite, smiling not squeezeed out American, and sincere smile people. From a tower top, that from where all hills start, the fantastic look opens. The ocean on which coast tower, flaunting, substituting bright sunshine the harmonous trunks, noble palm trees. In the distance silhouettes of white sailing vessels. You stand at a tower side, you admire and enjoy life, a world around charm...

in the Evening in an entertainment complex of “Las Vegas“ there took place local tournament of billiard-players in which the husband submitted the application for participation. We very much wanted to be together, and I went with it. But the fatigue which is saved up for several days let know. And though I honestly and persistently fought against a dream, it was difficult to monitor game. Fortunately, from the loved one as do not try, you will hide nothing. The husband brought me to hotel, returned to club, and I, having only concerned a pillow, fell asleep sound sleep.

Sixth day. Bagamoyo

We go to the town under Bagamoyo`s name located on the bank of the Indian Ocean, kilometers in 70 from Gift - es - Salama. The first that drew my attention at entrance to Bagamoyo - it is the plate over a door in Catholic church:“ Through this door there passed Livingston“.


has a rich, but sad story. This that place from where invasion of Europeans into Tanzania began, took away local population from here to make of it slaves. Bagamoyo served as a transit point where took all future slaves in order that then to send to Zanzibar where the rabotorgovlechesky market was located. In the city the set of the Arab constructions remained.

the main now, what truly admires forces to fade heart and immerses in a surprising condition of tranquility, so it is the ocean, its shore and coastal hotels.

We lodged in one of the most popular hotels. Constructions in Afro-national style. Everywhere faultless comfort and high level of service. Nearby coconut palm trees, banana trees. I in the fairy tale. We have dinner at rural restaurant. Wanted to feel taste of the real daily African food in most that on is to the local atmosphere.

were Brought by a glass of fresh fruit juice and some dish. It tasted like boiled potatoes with meat in sauce. Any exotic. But better I was not let into secrets of structure of a local cuisine. I cannot eat boiled bananas with meat. Even without pressing in that, it is tasty or not, I just do not accept it a combination. But itself thrust, and it was necessary to pretend what very much is pleasant to me. Bananas in Tanzania - a daily inexpensive product from which prepare the majority of dishes. The same products are the maize and fig.

Went to swim in the ocean, but the begun outflow made impossible bathing. To reach depth, it is necessary to go far, and it on outflow is already dangerous. We went along the coast, passed several hotels and left to city “small village“. As nearby the ocean, most of inhabitants trades in fishery. Men catch fish, all together (men, women, children) undress her. Right there little tables stand small benches which big, but not really deep tubs in which in the boiling oil fresh fish is fried with characteristic hissing face under a canopy near, exuding smells, kindling appetite.

After a smart dinner we sat in chaise lounges on an ocean coast. Over us a canopy from banana leaves over which the sky decorated with paints of the sun before sunset was spread. I look at the ocean, at palm trees, at the seen sails, at the setting sun, and gradually appearing unusually bright so the subtropical stars seeming closer. I am happy boundless happiness. Today, now, there is no time, there is an infinite space. Vanity of everyday life it is far, and I feel as a part of the Universe. There are no conventions and rules, there are no opinions and judgments, harmony governs here, and I merge with it in a whole. For the sake of this moment even if there would be no others, it was worth going to other part of the world.

Ya I love you, Africa! I love you Tanzania! I love you, Farid!

Gradually darkened also on dark as faces and bodies living in this country of people, the bottomless sky appeared stars. Their shine brighter and they seem closer and lower, than in Europe.

Breath of the ocean...