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Paradise on an ocean coast. The diary of the African wanderings (part 1) of

So it developed, we with the husband live in different parts of the world, and it is fated to meet to us not frequently. The immemorial problem - time and money - does not allow us to seem more than 1, 2 times in a year. Rescue only daily calls and warm thoughts about each other.

I here meeting, the first this year.

My dear and hotly darling in addition also very careful father of our little little son invited me to visit the country with which to me the share had to share the husband. Surprising, full of exotic, the mysterious African country - Tanzania.

my laconic husband answered

squall of my questions of future trip briefly:“ Come, you will see“. And I decided.

On a trip I kept the diary in which my supervision concerning different aspects of life of one of the most interesting, in my opinion, African countries were reflected.

Here that from this turned out.


the African continent has special magic force. It is sure, many will agree in whom the spirit of the pioneer and thirst of adventures is live with me. But what we know about the dark continent? For someone it is the hot Sahara Desert, for others ancient tribes, sorcerers, the impassable jungle and herds of wild animals. For the majority Africa is associated only with the black population of this continent and the black period in development of a civilization - slavery. And in the head acquaintances since the childhood of a line of K. Chukovsky sound:“ You do not go, children, to Africa to walk“. And as, all - there is a wish.

the North of Africa is chosen for a long time by Russians as the most optimum vacation spot. Hot climate, the sea coast, quite good level of service, east color and reasonable prices - all this promotes broad development of tourism in such countries as Egypt, Tunisia. Each travel company respecting itself offers rounds to Egypt and almost each resident of Russia has in the asset experience of stay there. But Egypt, despite the territorial arrangement, all - is hardly the indicative African country. More likely, on the historical way and traditions it belongs to the countries of the Middle East. That to reality of present Africa, it still is for us unsolved secret.

I here, will of a case, the destiny gave me an opportunity to see far novel Tanzania located in the east of Africa is slightly lower than the equator. Before a trip I wanted, to learn as much as possible about the country in which I should spend two weeks. And the first what I faced - it is the complete information vacuum. Inquiries of acquaintances, walks on a world wide web, campaigns on capital bookstores did not lead to anything. Outdated information of encyclopedias, several lines in regional geographic reference books - that`s all that I managed to find.

of 10 days to a trip

my the first took place, however, for the present only virtual acquaintance to Africa Today. I talked to Alexey Pavlov who was more than once in the African countries including in Tanzania. Alexey is the member of national geographical society, one of authors of the Round the world magazine. In tribes wrote the Russian mass media about its African travel and life more than once, and a number of telecasts was removed.

our conversation lasted hour two. But nevertheless, despite all information obtained from it, I with great difficulty represent what waits for me on a trip.

On the one hand, Tanzania - the land of plenty which is among the most beautiful places of our planet. Pleasant climate, gentle warm waters of the Indian Ocean, soft small sand of local beaches, unusual richness of a plant and animal life, all the year round abundance of fruit - the largest pineapples, a papaya in the world, mango, bananas. Impress also natural resources of this country: diamonds, gold, jewels, among which tanzanita which production is conducted only within Tanzania.

on the other hand, it is dangerous to go beyond hotel, around wild local population, murders, robberies. Tap water is so polluted that it cannot even brush teeth. Besides, many reservoirs are inhabited by dvuustka of a bilgartion - little helminths who, getting through skin of the bathing person, get into a liver, thereby, inflicting on the infected person awful suffering. It is necessary to add to the above-mentioned also a wide circulation of various diseases among which malaria, yellow fever and a problem of Africa No. 1 - AIDS.

to me it became terrible

After Alexey`s stories. There is a question: “Really I any more will never return to the native land?“ My gently beloved attentive husband, where you call me?

But for the sake of a meeting with the husband I am indeed ready to fly on the world`s end.

So, I go.

Week to a trip

Now I already had to be in Egypt through which my way to Tanzania lies. The trip had to be postponed to a week (I hope that no more). Put a yellow fever inoculation, and now I for 10 years am insured from unpleasant accidents. It was necessary to buy malaria pills. They should be accepted in 2 weeks prior to a trip, during all stay in Africa and 3 months after return. Rang round drugstores. In total in Moscow 5 drugstores trading in malaria pills at the same time running start of the prices makes their minimum cost, that is from 700 rubles to 1400 rubles for 8 pieces.

I Try to receive though some additional information on the country. Unfortunately, it is quite problematic.

my beloved fan of surprises continues to keep silence.

B one of travel agencies me was asked: “Tanzania? It where? In Egypt?“.


the guide “Parks of Africa“, but to tell that it helped me, I cannot. The description of wild animals which - that is written about national parks and some cities, but not in sufficient volume and gives an idea of the country very vague. I still know about the nature a little, I know nothing about people, their customs, a standard of living, way, customs etc. I learned nothing about sights where councils, cautions? What can be bought? In what to go there? Really, however, it is necessary to buy special boots from a gorteks and clothes in style of a safari?

About traffic was told the following:“ To tell that traffic in Tanzania is dangerous - it is not to tell anything. Even if to observe the maximum care, then all of you will not be able equally to evade from the truck which is going straight to you in a forehead or from the mad bus which axis breaks on your eyes that happens quite often. Both people, and animals pass through the road, without paying the slightest attention to transport. Traffic regulations are forgotten by all and forever“.

Where I go?

the First day of travel

can Get to Tanzania in the different ways. It is possible to order round in one of travel agencies, and it is possible to undertake all organization of the travel. I went to the husband and therefore the second option was unique.

of the Companies, making regular flights to Tanzania a little: KLM, Swissair, Egypt Air. My choice dictated, first of all, by the husband and the lowest prices fell on Egypt Air.

This company makes an avia flights Moscow - Gift - es - Salam - Moscow with one-day transit stay in Cairo on the way to Tanzania, and three-day - on the way to Moscow. So by the way I had an opportunity to touch treasuries of an ancient civilization, to visit at the bottom of pyramids and to estimate other delights of Egypt...

my neigbour in the plane - the girl - the blonde from Belarus. She worries from a little - that it has no Egyptian visa. In Cairo it reserved hotel and the Egyptian friends will meet.

Take-off of the plane took place in about 40 minutes, after the fixed time.

Service, of course, not of the European level, but quite tolerable.


It is flown up. Moscow already plunged into darkness. Myriads of everyday fires which majestically light the capital do not allow it to get lost in a gloom of the coming night. From height Moscow is similar to skillfully executed scheme accurately surrounded with ring borders. What beautiful show, clear structure, accurately verified lines. I try to make out the area, but it is possible to distinguish only Mnevniki.

Gradually we enter a zone of continuous clouds, there is a wish to sleep, eat and drink. The service personnel do not hurry. After a while I sink into a sleep. And already Egypt, Cairo, night, on the street of +21 °C. The small airport, quickly we pass control, and my neigbour receives the visa without problems.

Second day. Cairo

In hotel I order excursion across evening Cairo. Everything goes remarkably. I exult. I have time, and I decide to visit the Cairo Museum.

But how to reach it?


All inscriptions in the Arab language, figures and those it is unfamiliar - Arab. Once I stop or to ask something somebody, the great number of the Egyptians wishing to communicate runs together. Men, women, children - everything tell something, smile, explain, but show in absolutely different parties.

Someone got the camera, wants to be photographed with me.

Hardly, but I found that bus that goes to the Museum. Also left... not where it is necessary...

here inexplicably I nevertheless appear

I before hospitably open doors of the well-known Cairo Museum. I buy the ticket, something our about 180 rubles. Before me sarcophagi, statues, household items of ancient Egyptians. I look, I read accompanying inscriptions, but I understand nothing. It is necessary to know history or to come here with the person capable to explain that here and where.

I Watch

on people around. Their confused look and a roving glance express the same thoughts that arise also at me. Interestingly, but it is unclear.

the Excursion group consists of 5 people, and all of us together build the program. Excursion will be on motor-baizes as it is the fastest and convenient way of maneuvring between cars in an evening stopper.


On me sets up an enormous helmet, and I feel like the astronaut in a space suit. Sometimes we go so quickly that a helmet by miracle does not fly from my head. Several times we become witnesses of accidents. And, if where there are no traffic regulations, so it exactly here.

Should mentioning

how pedestrians cross the road. As the majority of traffic lights are in eternally non-working state, and on those from them which regularly carry out the regulating functions, the local population ceased never to pay attention long ago, and, maybe, and did not do it. Having forgotten about a continuous steam of cars, they direct forward, at the same time unperturbably and very skillfully, bypassing obstacles in the way in the form of the cars rushing at ultraboundary speeds. Here experience which in one day you will not get and therefore to me it was always terrible whether I crossed the road itself is required or watched how it is done by others.

Across Nile parokhodik scurry about. Near the embankment are located world-wide - the known hotels, the Cairo tower with restaurant and an observation deck on the top from where the delightful view of the city opens. Egyptians very much are proud of Nile, I like the atmosphere of the East at which I look through a prism of night Cairo. Mosques, the mullah`s voice, east markets, trade benches with a set of exotic goods, aromas of the Arab oils, freshly squeezed juice in unpretentious street cafes.

But I go further, there, where calls me my heart.