Rus Articles Journal

Vistula Spit - the place out of time. Part 1

Moscow - Baltiysk - the Baltic (Vislinskaya) braid - Baltiysk - Moscow
of Date of a trip 18. 06. 2011 - 25. 06. 2011
Additional photographic materials here.

Vislinskaya (it Baltic) braid. The narrow strip of sushi stretched from the nice city of Baltiysk towards Poland. Until recently - military base. And now - how to understand that there now? The place - hard times, the place - reminiscence, the point which is pricked out in time and space, the principle of uncertainty...

We saw it such and now. What will be with this fragile world in several years? Now nobody knows.

On the most western edge of our earth - Russia - the amazing place is. By the sea along the coast two very narrow strips of sushi were stretched. Curonian Spit goes from Zelenogradsk to Lithuania. And Vistula Spit conducts from Baltiysk to Poland. These improbable formations of sushi even on the card represent an amazing picture. Somehow, coming back to Moscow from Europe, we saw them from above, from the plane - a show even more fascinating.

Ya I consider Curonian Spit as the place where everyone has to visit because not to find such beauty any more anywhere.

Vistula Spit was until recently the closed zone in which to get the admission was very difficult. Border on the lock! And here a few years ago military left, and we at last could see it...

Having come back home, I was not going to write about our trip. Why? It was felt that the place this too specific, on rare “fan“. Whether I am ready to advise someone to go to have a rest there? Of course, no! The Vislinsky braid, at least, for today, for rest is not adapted. Whether there are there certain improbable beauty for the sake of which it would be worth suffering the general uncertainty and disorder of life? Yes, perhaps what, is also not present. Curonian Spit is brighter, more interesting, more convincing.

Only... passed more than a year. And Vistula Spit is not forgotten. Hooked something. Than? I do not know. It is not similar to anything.

the concrete road of a runway of military airfield Leaving afar. Very broad. Equal. Straight line as arrow. We walk on plates to the horizon already long. These plates, factory production, in a small scar - still pre-war, German. And these - airfield darned directly on the place after bombardments in war (we or Germans?) concrete was poured with addition of local sand, and now into a vplavlena runway surface by pieces of amber size about a palm. The surface is ground that amber did not disturb the course of military equipment. From all directions the concrete road there attacks the sea-buckthorn wood. Dense, prickly, impassable thickets. They protect airfield more reliably, than watchtowers on which sentries once were on duty. The sea-buckthorn comes, moves ahead on the cracks between plates which are filled in with rubber. It will destroy this concrete once, but this time did not come yet, not now. Silence around. And only blew softly something unfamiliar, unknown. This breath of history. So here everywhere. Baltiysk - the former fortress of Pillau... Vistula Spit - an outpost of our country in the West, the stronghold which was furiously defending with Hitlerites Frisch - Nerung in the east. In “their“ East.

the spotty cows who are Taking cover from the bright Baltic sun in the shadow of half-ruined plane hangars.“ Not ours“ - the roads of the Kaliningrad region surrounded to the region with huge trees closed over the highway of krone, turns at distance of a tank shot are not just expensive - means of transfer of the German military equipment. Swans float among the rusting skeletons of the constructions which are fencing off a bay from the gulf on the edge of the settlement on the Spit - military seaplanes were based here. The star of fortress of Pillau in Baltiysk put still by Swedes in 17 - ohm a century - moss-grown red bricks of fortifications, luster of water of a serf ditch, water-lily, in fortress and now is placed military unit. Now ours. A military German cemetery in Baltiysk - a quiet corner, a lawn, groups of pines, groups of crosses, stone plates with infinite series of surnames of those who remained on this earth forever, without having managed to keep it the. Monument on the Spit to the Soviet soldiers battling for these sandy dunes and for pines on them it is fearless and furious, managed to take and keep the base, and then to clear the Braid of troops of Wehrmacht at all. Battles were conducted by the summary connections which are quickly created on the place from different bodies therefore many participants of those battles still remained unknown.

the Unusual houses which are allocated from the mass of neighbors with certain “good quality“ alien to us - remained from former owners of this earth. Catacombs of the courses of cannon positions among the running dunes of the most delicate Baltic sand. The ancient forts guarding Strait of Baltiysk. Manholes with the shaped inscriptions a Gothic ligature on streets of Baltiysk. Gray, predatory silhouettes of our warships at the mooring. The figure of the empress Elizabeth Petrovna who stepped thriftily into this earth in 1756 directed on the West...

Change of times, generations, the authorities, customs, the history course here so by zry is already real as anywhere in other place.

of Travel over our country are so unusual and unpredictable

that any experience in this area is invaluable. To find in the Internet information on locations on Vistula Spit it appeared not so simply. It and is clear - until recently there was a border zone, and to locals had no time for tourists. Stories of the taxi driver about even recent curfew after 21:00, about the matrosik painting borders every night, about richness of import goods in the period of their total absence in Russia, about return of the ships from a campaign when by one taxi there leaves the captain`s peak-cap, and on another he - what is more here, the truth or fiction? Satisfactions from the fact that times of rigid access control already passed and it is possible to sigh quietly, or melancholy for a former order? What precisely should be noticed in these stories - uncertainty in the future. Now military units are removed from the dislocations, also the locals occupied earlier with providing and maintenance of functioning of a military large object part - there is no work any more. The buildings left military, but not transferred to other owners are empty and collapse. We saw the magnificent palace of pioneers on the Spit operating several months ago - now this completely destroyed building, hardly suitable for restoration, it is impossible to believe that until recently there was a parquet, batteries, windows... What here will be tomorrow? What future waits for these places? This earth will become tourist paradise or “Triumphs“ with “Iskanderami“ - our answer to the missile defense program - will habitually take the places among musical sands of Baltic...

Anyway, to themselves invited: recreation facility “Vistula Spit“, a camping (we will call it “a camping of times“ since it has no name) and still a camping (we will call it “a camping two“ since it has no name too).

In general, lack of names, similar design and almost indiscernible urla of the websites of campings me confused. First I considered that I came on the other hand to the same camping, having considered Nadezhda from the previous paragraph simply as the intermediary. It absolutely not so - I was mistaken, these are different places.

Konstantin exposed to

a condition of 30% - 50% of an advance payment (in March for June!) transfer from the map on the card from improbable cancellation policy:“ In case of refusal from the planned trip we leave 30% in the private use? 50% of total amount for accommodation at the account of the missed income. By the way, the absolute majority of hotels leads similar financial strategy“.

Financial strategy of the autolodge without wheels deployed on a kitchen garden between a bed with carrots and bushes of raspberry me struck

in the heart. However at the general not high cost of the project and at planned 5 - ti nights of accommodation for which the cost of the first night (in 1 200 rubles) not so strongly differed from 30% (1 800 rubles) I decided to relax.

However, it not all surprises were p>

. On arrival, having received already full payment for the forthcoming accommodation, the owner requested as a deposit the passport (!) that we what did not rest from its apartments, awkwardly reasoning it with need of “registration in a border zone“. This was not pleasant to me at all since I see the person of it for the first time, I do not know, it is possible to entrust him the most expensive, to get out of Kaliningrad in case of loss of the passport (and that if he, for example, just loses it? yes what of it!) - that still trouble! If I foreknew about such turn, would look for other place for accommodation. I do not know whether demanded pledge of the passport, say, in “a camping of times“... However, not everything was so gloomy. On arrival Konstantin issued us for self-education the cool huge book about the Braid, fed us with the most tasty fried flounder. It is a pity that we did not manage to find from whom from local it is possible to be bought by a small fish (and other products) - on the Spit it is somehow not accepted. Officer wives do not trade! Our questions “But whether You Will Sell a Cheesecake from a Bed?“ caused bewilderment if not to tell, offense of hostesses the fact that could suspect shopkeepers of them. Any grandmother with plain goods before shop - as in any other settlement of the country! Fresh fish, home-made eggs or milk, berries or greens from a kitchen garden - all this remained in dreams, it was only possible to eat what you will buy in shop, them on the Spit a little, but the range, of course, do not shine. Though, potato in them was...

Well also ended with

history with the passport remarkably. During our accommodation Konstantin was softened (probably, we did not brawl, as bulk of his lodgers), returned the passport even in the morning of that day when we needed to leave, just allowed to close the house and to put a key under a rug - the owner left for watch to Baltiysk at this time. He even called to come to him for work in Baltiysk into the local Ministry of Emergency Situations, we also gathered, but something did not develop.

Should notice

that, despite Konstantin`s assurances, other hotels of the region pursued absolutely other financial policy. I reserved Gold Anchor hotel in Baltiysk with usual policy of cancellation: “In case of not arrival or annulment of armor is later, than in 5 days, the payment for the actual idle time of number at a rate of the cost of one days is raised“. However, number in “A gold anchor“ cost us more expensively, than the ordered Konstantin`s autolodge. The studio for two cost 1 700 rubles.

had to Stop in Baltiysk for the first and last night of a trip to us because of a ferry. I was not sure, how reliable a situation with the ferry, and was afraid to be put on a crossing in day of arrival / flying away. It turned out not bad as Baltiysk - and in itself quite interesting place.

Be continued.

Olga (Anykey) Fokht