The Bulgarian adventures, or Rest at slav brothers of
So, sat down we from Left (Leva is a son. The pasha is a husband) and departed to the plane towards to the sea. I did not sleep, was in some somnambulistic state, did not even notice how the plane flew up. And suddenly, when already declared that will carry drinks soon, I extended hands forward and exclaimed: “Holiday!“ having caused a look of disapproval of the aunt sitting on the right.
the Airport on - Bulgarian is called “letishche“ at them in general very capacious language, for example, day off is called “pochiven day“ that is very wise, in my opinion, ambulance - “a bjrza the help“, and still I saw “a denonoshchna petrolstation“. On packs of cigarettes of a prichinyav cancer“, that is smoking - “tyutyun“, but it, of course, the Turkic word is written “tyutyunopusheneto. And so, it “letishche“ represented a shed, it is better for the little, than in Anapa. We estimated all its delights on the way back, but about it later. And after an arrival we quickly enough passed all formalities and in half an hour after landing already shivered in the bus on hills of Bulgaria.Albena is located
in the beautiful seaside valley and surrounded with mountains. It is the youngest and most northern resort of Bulgaria. The landscape very much reminds Crimean. Hotels are more expensively located on the lower terrace, is cheaper - on top; to them it is necessary to clamber on ladders or to go by special minitrains that expensively and nullifies all economy. I, probably instinctively, chose the best option - the cheap two-stars camping located in 10 minutes of walking from the sea without any descents and rises.
the Lodge in which we were lodged did not correspond to the picture on the Internet at all; Germans, below there a drawing room, and above a bedroom lodged in such lodges. Ours was hammered together from a chipboard. In each lodge - four numbers with a separate entrance everyone, plus an individual terraska on which it is possible to dry linen, to have a rest in the afternoon and to drink wine in the evening that we also did. In each number - own shower and a toilet, hot water. Two beds plus a chair-bed for the child, a bedside table, a case, a dressing table, two coffee tables, two padded stools. Generally, unpretentiously and modestly. Clean every day.
Certainly, we had noisy neighbors, it already became the obligatory rule of all our trips. Young people, years on 17, the Russian children from Germany who endlessly listened to the same cartridge of the performer unknown to me. The poor creatures limited at them idea of the Russian platform.“ Embrace me rather, take away for hundred seas, and kiss me everywhere, eighteen to me already“: and all in such spirit. However, unlike wild Russian teenagers, they were disciplined, ordnung already took the root in their weak souls: it is written that with 11 to 7 it has to be silent - and exactly at 11 in the evening they this priest - a nightmare cut down.
In a week, just when there arrived Pasha, they moved down, and instead of them the elderly German couple which spent days as follows was installed: Frau reclined the whole day on a terrace with the newspaper in hands, and her spouse since early morning bypassed all taverns, in everyone drank on a glass of beer and somewhere by 11 in the evening rowed up, strongly rocking, kindly greeted us if we were outside, and strode to himself. Perhaps, they also went to the sea, but I did not see it.
That struck me, so this quality of food. At Pasha`s insistance we took a half board, for economy. I was against - was afraid that the buffet in two-stars hotel will be poor. However it appeared the rights. For breakfast the following choice of dishes was offered us: two - three types of fried eggs, vegetables - fruit, sheep cheese, cheese, several types of sausage, corn flakes and balls of “Nestle“ with curdled milk, sausages, sausages, boiled eggs, tea - coffee - cocoa, a forfeit, sprite and something else aerated (juice, however, was not). For dinner: three look hot, soup, six types of a garnish, several salads, again fruit. However, at supper it was necessary to pay for drinks separately, but it were kopeks. The personnel at restaurant were extremely kind and diligent, were felt that prepare and serve with love; for example, at some moment where bread lay, there was a pedestal decorated with greens, and on it - bread in the form of two lying cows. For ornament - and not laziness to someone was.
generally, all advantages of similar dinners it were available. In - the first, Bulgarian cuisine is happy is sharp, and “specialist programmes“ of other countries, type of spaghetti and pizza, they did not learn to prepare yet. And here we were given the primitive, tasty and nourishing food cooked without special delicacy, home-style. In - the second, our breakfasts and dinners were followed by the silent, flowing from loudspeakers music: Beatles, Barbara Streisand, Smokey... And at small restaurants in the evenings live music what I do not transfer to spirit with might and main played. Even the song “There Is above the Mountain Alyosha, in Bulgaria the Russian Soldier“ once was sung when we walked. I nearly shed a few tears. And at other restaurant sang “Let run clumsily“, and then, without any transition, initial chords of a hit of our youth of It`s A Final Countdown (Europe group who remembers) were distributed.
the Cultural program at restaurants is a separate subject. Near each large restaurant held the post in the second half of day the barker, each of which had the way to seduce potential clients. Once, when we with Leva came back from the beach, I was taken suddenly by an arm by the man for forty with a paunch and straight off suggested to get acquainted. Me, speaks, call Boris Petrovich. I got accustomed and understood that it is similar rather to Boris Abramovich. All that time while I went by restaurant, it did not release my hand and whispered to me in an ear that there is a lot of restaurants in Albena, the competition mad, but at us the best, you surely come... The barker about the institution, next to our dwelling, every time, seeing us, knocked a finger on the dial of hours and spoke very anxious tone: “Exactly at 9 o`clock! Do not forget! Good varyetetny program!“ And the ox-eyed girl of Ralits standing near restaurant with the most romantic name “Forest Tsar“ spoke so: “You to us will be today? I will wait!“ - and a zazyvny look from - under eyelashes. In some places there was also a folklore program - dances and national songs. On coals we did not reach the well-known dances - laziness - the mother, then, I repeat, it is very noisy.our Days passed
in the most standard way: at the sea all day long, with a break not for lunch even, and it is rather for a lunch. Is much there it is impossible in the afternoon - very hot. I usually drank a glass of wine (white wine in Bulgaria much better than red) and ate salad and fried cheese (my organism during a heat does not accept some meat), and Leva, that also in general was limited to soup. Pashka, of course, another matter - he ate mainly to a kebapcha - such sharp sausages formed from chopped meat and roasted on a grill. At first I went type to restaurants, having decided that time we save on dinners, it is possible is in decent places in the afternoon. But there was surprisingly boorish service staff: waiters went as boiled flies, strove to shortchange, forget about part of the order etc. I do not know what it is connected with - perhaps, that we Russians, and Albena - almost entirely the German resort, though there is enough Russians. Or the main earnings at them in the evening when much also you want visitors - you do not want, and it is necessary to run. And the owner demands that the restaurant was open the whole day. And to strain in the afternoon a reluctance:“ And how you relax? - And I do not strain“. And here in cheaper institutions under the name snek - bars waiters are much more friendly, on quality the food does not differ from food at restaurants at all, and twice cheaper. Sometimes we did not leave the beach of hours to six at all - seven, having a bite tuners, that is shawarma.the Local man who was responsible on the beach for plank beds told
to me that with weather we were not lucky - almost all the time was very windy. But I so do not consider at all. Was hot, the breeze only cooled, we with pleasure shook on waves, especially my son whom I taught to podnyrivat under a wave. Those days when the sea was quiet, it was possible to catch crabs and to observe schools of fishes in absolutely transparent purest water. The beach in Albena too surprisingly pure, every evening sand is sifted by the special car, deleting the top layer with the garbage which collected in a day. Through everyone meters 70 there are boxes of rescuers (the service is saving). These are slender guys, beautiful, suntanned to blackness (students, probably) whose all functions are reduced changing the flags allowing or forbidding bathing and a whistle to entice from water of people who during a storm swim away in the sea on air mattresses. However, when my child rode from water hills (I too sometimes joined him), I observed such scene: from a hill the five-year-old child in a circle took off for the pool, the circle came off, and I did not manage to gasp as the sitting next rescuer was thrown in water and put the boy on a side. So if something happens is on whom to count.was enough
of the Russian families, Leva without effort found to itself a two-three of friends, I too sometimes exchanged a word with their parents. About 10 - 15% of ladies sunbathe topless, despite of own age and quantity and a sex of children. Strangely enough, young young ladies to whom is what to show almost do not bare a breast; delights of those who do it in most cases reminded me a joke about ears of an old spaniel moreover in combination with unshaven armpits: br - r, excuse for naturalism. I so bathed only in the evenings. Under the moon.
in the Evening after a dinner we went to have a good time. And entertainments in Albena a set. For example, you pour over a shooting gallery in which at hit there are any ridiculous things water; Leva won watch there. The autodrome on which my child was absolutely exhausted by the German girl with mad eyes; she shouted to it something in German all the time, and Leva, taught by me, Nikht ferstein shouted it in reply “!“ and “Their bin Russish“. The elastic belts attached to high crossbeams over a trampoline on which the child can fly up on five-meter height. The autodrome on water, absolutely brilliant invention: the pool on which inflatable boats with a motor, round and catamarans float. Everyone carries the name, for example Disco Boat, Race Boat, Storm Bird, Love Boat and Big Love Boat. For the third day we began to be recognized there; Leva rode these boats on half an hour; thank God, the barchik was near. Besides, on the path going along the sea the telescope in which it was possible to look at lunar craters or the Milky Way was installed, having paid only 50 stotinok. The owner of the telescope was very keen astronomer - the fan and gave us the mass of useful information - we became his regular customers. There is in Albena also a so-called street of artists on which any souvenirs, nonsense like popcorn and cotton candy are on sale, and also various services, for example, writing of a name on a rice kernel are offered. It is a lot of stands where kids can paint and take away with themselves plaster sculptures; we with Leva created four pictures on the centrifuge: the sheet of paper is strengthened on the centrifuge at the bottom of an iron barrel, it begins to rotate without restraint, and from above it is necessary to pour oil paint of different flowers. Next day the varnished picture pasted on a passe-partout can be taken away; there is this pleasure five lev, that is five brands. At Leva it turned out much better, than at me;“ It therefore, mother that you have a romantic nature, and at me artist`s“. And Pashka, of course, refused such type of creativity, the true artist that you will do...by
In Albena terrible art of portraits is very widespread on the photo, and also a retro - the photo: studio directly on the street where you are dressed in beautiful dresses, paint and do art it is black - white photos. One of studios carried the vital name “Titanic“. On the beach people walk in suits of any characters like Mickey - the Mouse, Pokemon (there are no Teletubbies for some reason), some hares, Bart Simpson: I saw how the two-year-old girl so was frightened of some cat (Toma, seems) that I shouted at all beach. With all these companions it is possible to be photographed. It is a pity for them, the poor, on a heat yes in plush suits:
Still there are rented by both regular bicycles, and four-wheel which it is possible to ride together, three together and even four together. Very conveniently - it is possible to travel over all Albena and to look at everything. For the first time we took it when still were together with Leva, and I for the first time felt driving as sometimes it was necessary to come out also to streets where there go cars. Nothing, got used, and when Pashka arrived and we took him again, everything in general went like clockwork. Still it is possible to ride horses in very beautiful carriages with the driver. In total nothing, but that horses did not bring down products of the activity on pure streets, at them under tails sacks where all this and accumulates are attached; respectively, behind each carriage the smell loop curls, and passengers, most likely, too enjoy it fully, also having paid for it the blood 30 lev: Generally, I told that I cannot be gone to it, Pasha agreed with me, and the child had to stop.
But the smartest of these transport entertainments. For 30 dollars under cheerful music of passengers took across all Albena, and then handed the video movie about a trip. This idiotic service, strangely enough, was extremely popular; every day we met three or four such taxi on the way. And all passengers had the same look - puzzled and lost, like “and why to us this hogwash?“ But money is paid, music plays, the cameraman shoots, it is necessary to have fun - therefore all of them joyfully swung hands, were shaken in a step of music and shouted all passer “hello!“
Ordinary taxi drivers in Albena exist too. For days on end they stand near the cars and look out the victims, and in the resort of their service is 2 - 3 times dearer than if to agree on bus station. Besides, there did not arrive Pasha yet, they regularly to me were glued, with one, for example, there was such dialogue:
- And where the father?
Ya, with astonishment:
- my father? there is no
- it (pointing to Leva)
- On Monday will arrive.
- Means, it is impossible?
- Is impossible.
What can be lakonichny? :))
were Finished evening by us usually in a remarkable open barchik where excellent children who were a pleasure to watching religious rites worked. I in general like to watch how cook cocktails. At bar there was a kitten with whom Leva played while I drank some “Alexander.
Once we went to a dolphinarium of Varna where resolutely it was not pleasant to me - in Moscow the program ten times more interesting. Besides, we took a walk in the city, ate in very decent pizzeria, is three times cheaper, than in Albena, and looked at “the well-known street shops of Varna“ - such branch of the market to Konkovo. I there even did not begin to come. Generally, who will go to Bulgaria, do not waste time for Varna, it is better to lie on the beach:) )I cannot tell
Ya that the nature of Albena struck me with the beauty. In - the first, the sun sits down in mountains there, but not in the sea, and I could not fill up the photo collection of sea declines. It was possible to begin a collection of dawn, but it demanded too big efforts. In - the second, there everything is built so up, and continually there are so much any institutions, larechok, pools etc. that there and you will not see the wild nature which is so necessary for me for rest of soul. However, once we left on the very brink the resort where the hotels standing on the beach come to an end, and there I was a little rewarded by a type of dunes, dumetose. And when behind our back knock of hoofs was distributed, and I saw the riders jumping in a surf strip (in Albena there is a club of riding): But beauty waited for us on Cape Kaliakra - far, on several kilometers to the high rock which is given in the sea.our travel began
there with what the sky tightened clouds, and we decided to go to a botanical garden to the neighboring city of Balchik, by bus for one lion. Having come to bus station, we found out that the bus just left, and following will be in half an hour. Here we were caught by the taxi driver and told that he for 20 lev will bring us there and back and will wait how many it is necessary. It`s all right, we solved, mudflows also went. On the road it us processed and persuaded to go after a garden on this Kaliakra. Generally, parted at full scale. All trip as a result cost us in 50 lev - 25 dollars - while the taxi driver spent for us in the afternoon. The garden was surprisingly beautiful and compact, the avenue of cactuses, and also country houses - the nice white lodges constructed, seemingly, just for appearance because nobody lives in them though it would be quite possible to arrange small otelchik especially blows the mind. By the way, this Balchik - too the resort where everything is much cheaper, than in Albena, but I doubt that the Russian tourist can get there - travel agencies do not work with small private hotels, and in a network they hardly hung out themselves. And the border Bulgarian can be crossed, as far as I understand, only with the voucher from travel agency.the Road on Kaliakra is very picturesque
- the serpentine curling on the foot of mountains along the sea. The poetical legend of how at the time of the Turkish yoke forty Bulgarian girls had to give to a harem of some khan, certainly, is connected with this cape. But they preferred death to bondage, were weaved by braids and fell a cropper from this cape in the sea: I can imagine how to them it was terrible because this cape (on - Bulgarian - a nose), mad beauty, towers over the sea of meters on 60; there and on the footpaths laid for tourists - that is terrible to go. Below - huge boulders, you will break - certain death, and Pashka for me very much shivered, I curious also aim to glance everywhere. Very beautiful place, the sea from three parties, highly, is visible the Romanian small villages: In one of rocks of a cave in which the restaurant is located; in the evening there too there are dances on coals, but we did not begin to wait for it. I ate a shark there, but something forces me to doubt its authenticity. And before entrance on the cape - ruins Roman a term and the Bulgarian churches IV-VII of centuries.Poverty of Bulgarians looks through
through luxury of resort life extremely seldom, but it is possible to make out it all-. Somehow time while my child with enthusiasm destroyed enemy planes on slot machines, I got to talking with the aunt who sells tickets. “And how this year sea?“ - she took an interest. That is until the end of August she never got out to the beach because she works every day without days off, from morning to late evening, and leaves home in the evening (nobody lives in Albena, all service staff lives in neighboring settlements). The same and with our restaurant: the breakfast began in seven, that is to six have to come to work of the cook; the restaurant in eleven was closed. I do not know how cooks, but waiters, extremely friendly and lovely, worked every day all day long. Once I saw how in Albena wash streets: KAMAZ to which two hoses are attached goes, it is followed by two aunts and from these hoses water asphalt. And when on the way to Kaliakra we passed through small towns, everything became finally clear: old houses, poorly dressed people, the scanty number of machines - Zhiguli, Zaporozhetses, Muscovites and trabant, vehicles with the horses and burros put to them. However, at us in some Mukhosransk, probably, it is not better. Moreover and monuments - the soldiers who are cut down from a rough stone - liberators - are as like as two peas.
In the last day I since morning ran at the sea (my idlers refused this invention), threw in it 50 stotinok, and we went in “letishche“. There it became clear that such thing as the computer, at the airport of Varna was not got yet therefore tickets will be without places. An hour and a half from registration before landing (flight was delayed) we staid in a settler in close crowd - all wanted to sit down together with own children and in the maximum remoteness from a toilet. Speak, something similar occurs in Simferopol, I did not try: But nothing, reached. Moscow met us by cold and need the next day to plunge into working process. The summer came to an end.
we somehow from the beach Go, and I pensively speak: “All - is not present on light anything better than the sea“. What my child answers: “No, mother, is“. - “And what?“ - “Love“. On this philosophic note I will also finish the narration.