What pulls people in novel distances?“ Hunting to change of places“, the desire is not simple to have a rest, lying on the sun, and to open for itself something new.
In two weeks we by bicycles traveled all over east and southern coast of the Crimean peninsula from Feodosiya to Sevastopol, stopping in all large cities. New impressions, burdens and pleasures of a way divided together. There were both difficult passes, and long transitions under the scorching sun, and abrupt descents, and the unforgettable landscapes replacing each other on the way. An escort car, having left after group, stopped for the night at Tamani, and joined the cyclists crossing border by train only in Feodosiya, after a crossing on the ferry. Decided to remain here per day and to examine vicinities. Stopped in the private sector. Next day drove through the city, visited Ayvazovsky`s museum and ruins of the Genoa fortress. On the way back there was the first puncture of a wheel - well that not on the route. Baptism of fire is taken place. By car went to the Old Crimea where visited a lodge - A. Green`s museum and the medieval monastery. Swam in the wonderful, quiet and transparent sea. For the first time saw the nacreous beach instead of sand covered with the crushed cockleshells. Agreed to leave from the dawn that till the heat to manage to take cover in the shadow of small streets of the following item of appointment. The road is not always easy: streams among flat hills, going down to the wide valleys opening embraces I exhaust, the abrupt serpentine climbs up highly to mountains, showing canines of rocky ostanets over the wood. Burned steppes and friendly grape valleys, dangerous breaks and high mountains, noise of a mad surf and rustle of gentle waves, murmur of forest falls and howl of hot dry winds on the earth which long ago was not seeing a rain...
to grain fields are succeeded by vineyards. The ash-tree and a hornbeam of droughty steppes concede to harmonous cypresses and the blossoming magnolias of the damp southern cities. But the horizon is still unattainable. Our way lay among the hills overgrown with a rare and dry bush, the genial morning sunshine did not burn yet when we saw an openwork arch over the road. We arrived to Koktebel - “The country of cognacs“ - this city so represents itself. But for us this name first of all is connected with bright names of poets of “silver age“. In Koktebel there is a house museum of M. Voloshin. Here the stop is absolutely short, today it is necessary to reach the city the Pike perch. Having stopped in the settlement of Shchebetovka, we try a remarkable fragrant melon. Further the road becomes more abruptly, and soon we, becoming exhausted, we conquer our first pass, having risen from sea level by 425 meters.
By a lunch we already in the Pike perch. We go to the beach, and then we look for the place for a lodging for the night. Highly over the cape one more Genoa fortress rose. Here it remained better, than similar in Feodosiya. Here it is full of tourists, drive excursions, and on the platform overlooking a bay it is possible to be photographed in the Roman armor. The following stop is planned in the village of Privetn, it approximately halfway to Alushta. But the mood and the nature will change our plans. Kilometers under a wheel of the bicycle are multiplied, the cities and settlements are replaced by capes and bays.
Why people drive not cars, trains, planes, and prefer pedestrian and cycle campaigns? To experience and with all completeness to live each meter of a way, each pressing of a pedal, a breath and an exhalation of lungs, tired on rise. To hear and see everything around, slowly, enjoying singing of a starling and a chirr of grasshoppers in a grass, ripeness of fruit and greens of fresh foliage after a rain, a smell of surprising southern flowers and paints of a decline. We reflect on all this on the way. Having left the Pike perch at dawn, we, without having had breakfast, continued the way on the South. Planned till the heat to pass about 40 km and to settle in the village of Privetn on spending the night. The easy way on the cool morning valleys of vineyards tightened by a haze installed in us pleasure. But our fun was a little reduced when we found out that the village of Privetnoye is in three kilometers from the sea and there are no well-planned places for the parking ashore just. Here we also regretted that we neglected a breakfast. We should find a new haven, and for this purpose it is necessary to pass at least 20 more km. Judging by the map and the guide, ahead there were some more villages, but only in Fishing there was a well-planned autocamping.Doing to
stops at each fruit-tree and filling the stomachs with green apples, apricots and pears we continued a way. The lunch heat and hunger with all force fell upon us on rise to the pass. Exhausted, all were tumbled down down to the ground, looking for rescue in a liquid shadow of sickly trees. From the car the kerosene stove was taken, and marching porridge soon began to boil. After a reinforcement, to four o`clock in the afternoon our team had a rest in a shadow, and then inertly continued a way. The enthusiasm and fun were considerably reduced, but there is nothing to do, the way is not complete, to spend the night on the pass, without water nobody does not want. Long rise, still very much hot though the sun also tends to the horizon. The group strongly stretched, someone else twists pedals, and someone just rolls two-wheeled “horse“ on a roadside. Old Kharkiv bicycles do not sustain the competition - by them already just there is no place to include a low gear. Speed by brand new mountain bicycles can be included so that though very slowly, but it will be with little effort possible to go to any hill. But heavy rise behind. Descent very abrupt - four more kilometers and we in the seaside valley quickly fly by. And again the road leaves from such close and inaccessible sea coast and rises by the hill.
the Landscape by the evening considerably changed. Even in the morning we were among vineyards, then rose by the adust and opened to all winds steppe pass overgrown with an immortelle and rare bushes of a dogrose. And a sad show - as far as there are enough eyes - the same sad plateaus which - where on beams unfortunate bushes turn green stretch around. The valley pleased with dense greens of high trees again and further the road goes among high hornbeams and ash-trees. At sunset all of us reached to Fishing. The benefit the friends accompanying us by car already took the place in an autocamping directly ashore. We put tents and we run to bathe. A shower here - the truth, paid. Walk along the embankment of the small settlement, having a snack in a cafe. To look here especially there is nothing. On the beach of a camping there are a lot of tents and cars, people from different places. Near our parking the flag of Belarus flutters. By cars the Russian and Ukrainian numbers - here Kiev residents and residents of Rostov, the harkovchena and residents of Krasnodar equally often meet. Someone cooks borsch on the marching gas stove, someone fitted a washstand on a cowl of the shabby minibus, someone by the rubber boat goes to wild stones for fish and mussels. It is our first stop in tents - before we removed housing in the private sector. We are ready also to it.
One of the most difficult transitions of our campaign behind. Today we are waited by the first large city of the southern coast - Alushta. Many tourists were here earlier, and they want to walk on the embankment again, to see what changed since last visit. As usual, from the dawn went to a way. Rose from Fishing to a beacon. From here the bay of the following settlement is already visible. The village of Malorechenskoye meets us fine, directed up is dazzling - a white spike of the new temple built directly ashore. This temple will carry out also function of a beacon, specifying a right way to the ships. We have breakfast in Solnechnogorsk and we roll further. The easy road, of 30 km along the sea, the beautiful views opening behind each new turn damp wind and a cool conceal the fatigue which collected during travel. Alushta meets us by clouds. Today for the first time not hot. Here two days are planned for the parking.
Next day at us day off from bicycles. We go on foot to the highest point of the district - Demerdzhi`s mountain. This mountain is known for the unusual form, and to its bottom to “The valley of ghosts“ drive horse excursions. The unusual nature sanctuary strikes with the beauty and a variety of bizzare shapes. Created by winds many centuries ago, teeth of rocks look from the wood as if the hardened characters of legends and legends. The organ hall an equal semicircle of rocks towers over the audience, the Chinese tangerines look down, on the edge of an abyss fantastic Chernomor`s head stiffened, and the sentry fortress of the old lock a nedremanny eye examines all approaches. The huge scope for the imagination - a variety of rocky silhouettes generates new associations. But these places are fanned also by more modern legends. We follow in the tracks of “The Caucasian captive“ - a stone on which Nina, dancing, sang Shurika about polar bears, an old nut from which Vitsin threw nuts. Walk on the mountain, and tomorrow again in a saddle took the whole day us. We are waited by big Yalta.