What is kalses? Fashionable trousers of the Middle Ages
That for us clothes? Need, ornament or excess expenditure of money which already scatter it is unknown where. The simple answer to a simple question - both ornament, and need.
It is difficult to do in cold winters without clothes. And education, respect for norms of decency not everything allow to enter society of nudists. Which, by the way, in public places appear dressed as it is necessary - in trousers.
Here about trousers, and is more true - about trousers, it is a little and we will talk.
Article of clothing, worthy all praises. Trousers are universal and convenient. Both for men, and for women - for all occasions. Trousers happen different: as in the song it is sung - black, white, red. Bridges, jeans, Capri, wide trousers, riding breeches... - the list is rather big. Classical trousers which acquired the status of “classic“ not at once finish this register, and evolutions went a long way.
As for history of things, it is difficult to determine everything by the concepts “truth-lie“: there are no witnesses, and events of prescription are treated by all differently. So, one historians attribute emergence of trousers to Persia in which allegedly for convenience of soldiers the loincloth was drawn between legs ropes. But, as it seems to me, such method was hardly applied - from purely physiological point of view.
Others consider that we are obliged by emergence of this irreplaceable attribute of modern fashion to Scythians who already in ancient times wore leather trousers. So the fashion on leather trousers has an old story.
Taking into account nomadic life of Scythians and the fact that the cattle breeding was the main occupation of these people it is quite probable that the first couturiers on wearing trousers Scythians were fashionable nevertheless. Such trend did not remain unaddressed, and the Gallic people and the German tribes got panties soon.
But the real boom of fashion on trousers began during an era of the Middle Ages and proceeded in the Renaissance. In the Middle Ages such profession as the cutter appears - it is possible to tell, the couturier`s ancestor. There were fashionable trousers - stockings which were called of a shossa . Looked it quite peculiar - each pant leg was put on separately from another and fastened to a belt or outerwear.
Shossa were clothes a unisex - both for the macho of that time, and for great ladies who carried these panties under skirts. The fashion on trousers - stockings held on long enough, changing. So, in Italy of those times of a shossa began to carry multi-colored - one half of trousers did not coincide with another on color at all. There are such dominoes!
Also trousers kalses which appeared in the 15th century in Spain are quite interesting. As legislators of fashion in those days the nobility who, probably, liked to fill such “pillowcase“ with cuts tow, hay or a horsehair, of course, acted. Through cuts fabric of the lower trousers which was most often sewed from expensive materials was seen.
In the same times there was one more type of trousers - wide trousers plyuderkhozen . Here already innovations took place and modernizations from those about whom speak “to the beggar to be going - to gird only“. Hired German soldiers - landsnekhta not so often could buy clothes for service.
The salary from the German sovereigns was, to put it mildly, unstable. And nothing eternal happens including clothes. Here also poor tell-tales had to get out - to turn a tatter into tapes and to tie up them trousers. And further - as always: last word in fashion.
In the middle of the 16th century new trousers - appeared of a rengrava . As the reformer the Dutch envoy in Paris, certain Rengrav acted this time. His trousers represented the wide pants with frills put over trousers. And that is interesting: such shorts were to the taste to Louis XIV - the fashion on them held on more than forty years.
But the longest period endured such trousers as culottes . Since 17th century and on the XIX this short (to a knee) trousers were carried also by aristocrats? and simple people. Such fashion also reached Russia from an easy hand of the tsar - the reformer Peter I whose decree noblemen and citizens were recommended to carry a caftan, a camisole, culottes and stockings. Here such planting of a uniform from above. Before ports which were sewed from a canvas or cloth were traditional men`s wear in Russia - the mother only . Probably, the window to Europe was opened by the tsar not for nothing.
The French revolution presented not only freedom of France, but also new fashion on trousers - drawers . They received the name in honor of the popular theatrical hero of Pantalone who had such trousers. The shortened option of trousers was to the taste to ladies as underwear and, say, held on long enough. Changes, additions and jewelry were made. In a word, “drawers“ entered for a long time national use.
The foundation of modernization of trousers was laid, further - in the 19th century - there was their even more shortened fellow - shorts (from English “short“ - short). Sources give different interpretation to emergence of this type of trousers.
It is considered that such trousers were a uniform in divisions of the British army which were based in colonies. Some researchers consider that it is part of clothes of students of Cambridge. In any case, the fashion on shorts and in the modern world exists. And, most likely, long will exist still. The most convenient clothes for the summer period.
At the same time when shorts appeared, trousers - of riding breeches which got accustomed further in the Russian cavalry became fashionable. For riding driving British created subsequently bridges which are considered as a convenient and fashionable detail of women`s clothing now.
The story would turn out incomplete without mention all favourite of jeans which appeared at the end of the 19th century thanks to Levi Strauss and already so much time remain at peak of “jeans“ fashion. Universal clothes for all times, on any weather.
However trousers wore not only in Europe, but also in east Asia - for example, traditional Japanese trousers of a hakam. In the beginning they were available only to the upper class: to Samurais, aristocrats and priests. Subsequently their began to carry also women of Japan. In the Arab countries carried shalwars.
What will be farther with our trousers, know unless the couturier. But it is thought that kalses we will not carry any more though - who knows...