Sushchik - what is it and whether it is possible to cook from him a fish soup? Somehow I already told
about one surprising soup restoring to life any organism, apparently, hopelessly grown weak in unequal and heavy fight against alcohol and other unreasonable excesses of our daring holidays.
In the Karelian villages of Northern Priladozhya it is called a maymarokk (maymarokka). Well, and in the Russified option this dish is known as to a maym soup.
Train him, regardless of differences in the name that Russians that Karelians, is absolutely identical - from dried smelts.
When I prepared article about a mayma soup, could not pass by the known work as R. F. Nikolskaya (Taroyeva) “The Karelian cuisine“ and not look attentively - and that Roza Fiodorovna writes about dried fish fish soup? How seen by me, tasted, and then and personally approved in practice, differs from retseptny classics? Appears, differs. And, in my opinion, it is quite essential. Well and me it seemed that more detailed description and specification of separate technological operations of preparation of a dish will be not superfluous.
Here I also decided to stop on the recipe provided in R. F. Nikolskaya`s book, in more detail. By the way, “The Karelian cuisine“ - not just prescription collection of ethnic cuisine. It is serious, I will not be afraid of this word, fundamental scientific work. Yes, scientific! Roza Fiodorovna was an employee of the Karelian branch of Academy of Sciences of the USSR. And before sitting down at writing of the book, it during several (!) field seasons visited with expeditions all Karelia from the South on the North and from the East on the West.
And everywhere Nikolskaya looked, listened and wrote down. Any of the recipes described in the book or is prepared directly in the face of Roza Fiodorovna, or in detail painted with it in an oral form someone from those who at any time could confirm told them in practice. Therefore there is no slightest occasion to doubt truthfulness and reliability of the recipes provided in the book.
Especially it is interesting why there are differences between prescription classics and what you see in practice?
And they begin already with the name of a dish. If fish soup from dried smelts is called of a maymarokk (maymarokka) , then the recipe in Nikolskaya`s book - of a kab (cap) Rocca . And, by the way, this name, explains much. If Rocca ( of rokka , in the Karelian rokku option ) in translation from Finnish - soup, then of kapa on North - the Karelian dialect, and of kabakala on livvikovsky and lyudikovsky, is a sushchik. It turns out that kab (cap) Rocca - no other than soup (fish soup) from a sushchik.
But here at once there is a question: and what is “sushchik“?
The answer can be found, for example, in the encyclopedic dictionary F. A. Brockhaus and I. A. Efron who explains that “sushchik“ in Olonets and the neighboring provinces call the different fish trifle which is dried up in furnaces among which all is the perch and a ruff prevails. Also other sources claiming that such way of preparation of small fish for the future as her drying in the Russian furnaces is rather widespread in North - the western regions of Russia do not contradict this authoritative edition. Prepare in this way ruffs, snetok, small perches, smelts, and also and other species of small fish. This dried-up fish trifle is also called a sushchik.
With a perch and a ruff everything is seemingly clear. The best fish soup with a transparent, gentle and dense gain cooks from ruffs, perches, whitefishes and pike perches. But already not to carry the last to a fish trifle in any way. Therefore as carefully do not touch a sushchik, a whitefish and a pike perch among it not to find.
There is a certain clarity and with a snetok with smelts. Generally, it is the same small small fish with the extended, covered large, easily cleaning off scales, a body and a big mouth. In the Baltic Sea, in the Onega and Ladoga lakes it is larger, and call it smelts here. Snetok - by the size slightly more small also lived in lakes North earlier - the West of the European part of Russia. Now he can be met not only in Rybinsk, but even in the Saratov reservoir where it across Volga got from Lake Beloye.
Respectively, in Karelia and the Leningrad region this small fish will be called by smelts, and in Novgorod or Pskov - a snetok. And if for preparation we took a soup maym a dried smelts, then a snetok - it is not worse. It can be meant too if suddenly someone is going to cook a fish soup from a sushchik.
And here is how to be with “other species of small fish“ ? It is clear, that the sushchik is “mainly“ … But besides a perch, a ruff, smelts or a snetka, among a dried small fish come across also to “other her types“ . With them - that as? In my opinion, here it is necessary to be guided by the general rules which say that not any fish is suitable for preparation of fish soup. So, for example, it voblas, chekhon do not cook from small fry, the bream, a herring, a mackerel, a ram. But if this rule concerns to fresh fish, then in the same way it extends also to dried. From the fact that we dried up small fry it will not become a perch.
Therefore from all variety of dried fish who is on sale in our shops now I would limit the choice to a traditional perch, having added to it (in the presence) smelts (or a snetka). And here ram, a vobla, small fry and the bream would leave to lie where they and lie, waiting for judges of intoxicated beer. With it this fish will go just with a bang. And if to cook a fish soup from a sushchik … Better without them.
With from what specifically fishes to cook a fish soup from a sushchik, it seems understood. It would seem, it is possible and to begin. But, in my opinion, remained still which - what details demanding preliminary specification as R. F. Nikolskaya tells nothing about them in the book. What do I mean?
When we cooked a mayma soup before in a pan with the boiling water in which potatoes which are previously cleaned and cut with cubes already reached readiness the dried smelts were put, it broke off the heads. Too to behead a perch? In my opinion, surely. Together with the head we separate from a fish carcass and a gill - that biological filter on which any baddy dissolved in water settles. In an ear it to us it is perfect without need!
After office of the head, I think, not superfluous will and draw a perch. The dried interiors will add nothing good to flavoring scale of fish soup, but to spoil it - can. Why then to risk?
And here I did not begin to clean dried fish. Both a skin, and scales - the same animal protein. Of course, it is much more difficultly acquired, than fish fillet. But we are also not going to eat them. Especially, before reaching a table, both scales, and a skin of usefulness will manage to give all the to water broth. And in many respects thanks to them, fish soup will gain those qualities which we so appreciate this dish - rich soup with characteristic aroma, transparent, gentle and dense broth.
Concerning from what specifically fishes fish soup from a sushchik cooks and as it previously to prepare, probably, everything. Perhaps, time to get over closer to a plate came.