What do you know about Almaty?
Probably, you know that there is such city in the south of Kazakhstan (can be, even you will find on the card). That it is called the Southern capital. Perhaps, heard that the most tasty apples are the Almaty aport (it is not sure that tried). Well, still, perhaps, remember that there are mountains. And therefore Alma - Ata in a seismodangerous zone lies; from time to time it shakes.
As a matter of fact, “than what you have more“? But all - I would like to tell you about this city, is more true not about in what I live, and about that which I love.
Probably, it is necessary to begin with mountains. Someone from poets told: “ In palms of mountains lies the green city “.
Really, in palms. In the south of the mountain high, tops from fall to spring are covered with snow; in the West and in the east counters (flat spurs so are called) come to naught. Mountains are so habitual that somehow you forget that it is a miracle. They are, and that says it all.
The South - where mountains, top - where mountains. Their location in the childhood played with me a joke. I long did not perceive maps: they were wrong. On cards the North was above, and has to be below because on the South is up. By the way, I still overturn local schematic maps head over heels.
Moscow and St. Petersburg were lucky. Their streets and character are imprinted by artists of both the word, and a brush. And Alma - Ata I found the image on pages of rather good prose, at Yury Dombrovsky in “The keeper of antiquities“ only once:
“Huts, hatka, strange samanny constructions where a good few of the house is occupied by a wall, and window is under a roof. Clay, adobe, tes, reed. And all this is equally overflowed, shipped to roofs in gardens. Gardens everywhere.
Greens in this city are located terraces, the first floor - these acacias. Over acacias orchards, over poplar gardens, and over poplars already only mountains“. It is written to
about Alma - to Atya the thirtieth years of the last century. However, for me 20 - y still real.
... Year of birth of the city is considered 1857 when on the place of the small Kazakh settlement of Almaty the Cossack fortress with the pretentious name “Fort True“ was put. The remains of the three-meter clay wall surrounding once fortress still show to tourists. In 20 - x years it was described in the novel “Mutiny“ by the red commissioner D. Furmanov.
Radial streets in east part of the city also testify to fortress - the ancestor: Clover, Abounding in water, Cherry, Pear. Since finding of sovereignty by Kazakhstan they were ruthlessly renamed, having appropriated a little about what the speaking Kazakh surnames, but radical almatinets still call this area “Compote“.
Of the past remind also two more sights: Baum`s grove - the commandant of fortress who forced the soldiers to plant trees, and the well-known wooden cathedral of the architect Zenkov - a man-made lacy miracle. Nailing this temple of forty-meter height by hearsay built without uniform, costs on a sandy pillow (technology which was adopted later by Japanese). It sustained both destructive vernensky earthquakes of the beginning of the 20th century though all city lay in ruins.
Practically nothing remained from times of construction of Turksib - Turkestano - the Siberian highway when the population of the city the beginning promptly to increase. In 30 - x years thousands of builders - workers arrived in Alma - Atu from every quarter of the Union. They lodged in new areas, to the West from fortress. And first of all by the ethnic principle: to 60 - x years of the street and were called - Uzbek, Uigur, Dungansky.
The new image of the city (the present center) was planned by town-planners - Leningrad residents, on a sample of Vasilyevsky Island from its pershpektiva - strictly parallel and perpendicular streets. In general, it is necessary to tell, in ecology the Leningrad architects “rummaged“ much more present.
Alma - Ata lies in a hole: from the South - Zailiysky Ala - to a ta, from the North kilometers in three hundred - Dzhungarsky mountains. Atya does not have wind, per se, in Alma - (clothespegs, much-needed attribute for drying of linen, it is possible not to use). Sometimes, however, during a thunder-storm, trees terribly rustle and are shaken, filling up asphalt with dry small branches, but it happens seldom. From here the exhausting summer heat and a terrible gas contamination of the modern city (if in winter clear day to rise to mountains, you are terrified to a black veil, in kilometer by height shrouding it).
And still in the fifties whatever was a heat at midday in the mornings without warm clothes the house did not leave. In a night cold air from mountains (breeze) aired the city, blew it on vertical streets through.
And on streets aryk flew. From small Almatinka`s small river parallel to mountains departed on the southern suburb of Head Aryk from which down, on roadsides, murmuring, water ran. There was no water supply system yet, inhabitants used this water for drink. And therefore there was a tough law: from 5 o`clock in the morning had to 10 nobody the right this water to pollute.
And water, glacial, crystal-clear, existed the most tasty! Unfortunately, was. Because now almatinets should buy drinking water in large bottles. Only in the most prestigious, top, Hugo - east districts of the city drinking water in a water supply system is close to former standards.
The winter in my city is beautiful, but is bad. The dank cold scolds to bones: -15 in Alma - to Atya all the same that -30 in Siberia. The summer is hot, heavy. If the whole week under +40, you do not know where to disappear.
But the spring and fall are simply wonderful. In the spring the city all white - to the middle of April blossoms dried apricots, then cherry, plum, to the May Day - apple-trees. As they smell! By May 9 the city becomes lilac. Late May is candles of chestnuts and a white acacia. At the beginning of June in squares and along streets smells sweet (not to be at other loss for words) a linden.
And the fall is even better: long, solar, captivatingly beautiful, unusually tasty. Generally, you will be going to Almaty - come in the fall!