To whom to trust in Venice? Day of third
“It was never loved. It always was others, always caused envy, suspicion and caution. She did not fit into convenient categories of the countries and the people. She was a lioness who went in itself“ - the writer wrote - James (Jan) Morris in the book “Venice“ in 1960 trasvestit. Comparison with a lioness is not casual. The symbol of the city is a lion of Saint Mark. Lion`s mouths here really continually.
For the third day the heavy rain went. But in Venice so you get used to water that on rainfall you cease to turn attention - just became a little... mokry. But with yourself surely take an umbrella.
The Santa Maria church of della Salute became the first point of a route. A grandiose construction and full freedom for the amateur photographer - eccellente! The Salute station lies on the main tourist routes (N and 1) practically opposite to San Square - Marko. The number of photos in article is limited, and here that case when there is a wish to lay out tens of pictures. Therefore I will better strongly recommend to visit this sight without fail.
If you pass through the city in one afternoon (as it usually happens at group tours), then allocate time for Salute, even to the detriment of San - Marko and Dvortsu doges. Photos of two last places you will find thousands in the Internet if not millions, and here thanks to the fact that Salute`s church operating, is an opportunity to make a unique picture. For example, the priest leaves a cabin for a confessional (I missed the moment, but to you can carry more).
After church I sat down on vaporetto No. 20 (it was necessary to return to San - Marko) and floated along short, but extremely interesting route - from the island San - Giorgio to the island San - Lazarro. In the guide it was specified 82 - y a route. There is no such route. Is 20 - y and 10 - y. With routes “the water subway» in Venice big confusion: numbers or letters (for example, a route of “N“) can change depending on a season.
A dignity - Giorgio is rather large island literally in a couple of minutes from Venice. Even if you were not in Italy, then saw this island for certain. 90% of postcard photos of the city are devoted San - Giorgio. This those pictures where on the foreground there are moored gondolas, and acts as a background church, the monastery and a belltower.
On the island beautiful gardens are laid out, but boondocks look some started. Having bypassed church, I found the waste ground with the basketball platform (monks play?) and mouldy shipyard with building berths. Most likely, here repair yachts which parking is located with North - east part of the island.
In church it is possible and it is necessary to photograph (without flashes!) . Beautiful sculptures, including a huge statue of an angel in a corridor, a chapel with illumination (to include illumination costs 1 euro), body... But it is the most interesting to rise by a belltower (three euros) and to get a bird`s eye view of Venice. And if to look in other party, then the view of a lagoon will open.
Having acquired on San - Giorgio and having cracked panoramic views from a belltower, I returned on 20 - y a route and floated on San - Lazarro. Also noticed change as a part of passengers. If earlier tourists were the various weight then I got to society of youth - 20 years are not more senior.
On the deck some bearded man whom I took for the captain of the vessel constantly stuck out, and constantly asked when San - Lazarro? On a certain mix of Italian with English it managed to explain when to leave. It left on the island too and as I learned later, it was not the old salt, but professor of university. And the youth which arrived with us represented the Italian students. Here so, together with students I also got to the monastery.
More precisely at first did not get. The inspector explained that excursions to the monastery should be ordered in advance and to arrive orderly - with group, the ticket and the guide. So it is necessary to come back not solono hlebavsh. But I was rescued by the girl - the guide. She knows, probably, all languages of the world including Russian. I issued all information on the monastery from the guide, expressing extreme desire everything here to see. The inspector, having learned that I from Russia, for some reason told: “I and thought“, and then allowed to join group of students.
However, excursion will be held in Italian, information on monastery should be found out upon return home. History of the island is worthy the whole book therefore I will give only brief information: the island San - Lazarro of Armeni`s delya - one of the most interesting in the Venetian lagoon. Saint Lazar in honor of whom the island is called was a patron leprous - 400 years the island was leper colony, and at the beginning of the 18th century he was transferred to the Armenian community (Armenians live in Venice even since the 13th century).
After islands I went to Dorsoduro - the southern district of Venice. Usually the route on this area is begun from Akademii Bridge, from outside the Grandee - Canala, but I preferred to land at the San station - Basilio near seaport, and already from there to reach Accademia station. About a collection of paintings it would be worth writing to Academies in detail and here only I so there and did not get (got lost and left absolutely in other place).
In Venice there is ANTIFA. Graffiti of this organization cover walls of constructions in port. The entrance to the terminal is faced by sculptural composition - three musicians and two ancient guns. And the only bicycle in the city was leaned against a lattice of a fence (others did not meet). If who remembers the first part of the story, then there I mentioned a cat. He lay in a bed against the big liner and peacefully slept sluggishly and immoderately, without paying attention on passing by sheep-dogs (apparently, from customs service).
Dorsoduro, as it appeared, the student`s area (students again!) and, perhaps, not the most not tourist. In a garden of one of institutes there is a headless statue, and degree of decay and a moldiness here 10 times more, than in other parts of the city. In Dorsudoro the review of the writer D. G. Lawrence of Venice as about “the disgusting and slippery green city“ occurs. Dorsoduro really green - seaweed surely climb on walls of channels and cling to bridges. However what for one is disgusting, for another it is fine.
In my opinion, all these “greens“ and decay only create the full-fledged atmosphere of the place where the past peacefully coexists with the present. It so is not enough in Russia where the past is destroyed to please the present. Nothing prevents Venetians to take and replace platbands of windows with plastic. But is not present, do not do. Yes, double-glazed windows put inside, and here an old wooden sun blind keeps (not only in houses, but also in hotels). And here in the majority of cafe not Italians, but Asians work. Globalization changes everything. Even rebellious lioness Venice.
My travel of the first half of day will end on Pyazalle Rohm where there is a highway from the continent, the big parking and the railway station. For women, travelers alone or without the men`s company, I will advise to walk up and down not especially on the station. There it is not that dangerous, but the station - the place of work of the Venetian prostitutes. Therefore the woman walking on the platform to and fro idle causes quite certain intentions in the Italian men. However, if strongly were spent on a trip... I joke, I joke!
In two days I so weaned from transport that I perplexed stared at huge tourist buses and numerous cars. Not to spoil impression of illusion of immersion in the past, it was necessary to dive urgently into narrow back streets of Chiara Embankment, to run by garbage cans with bums and impudent seagulls, and then to plunge on vaporetto No. 42 and to departure on far (more than an hour of a way) Burano`s island.
But it is already other history...